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L'incendiaire by Serge Lutens
Bottle Design:
Serge Lutens, Eriko Hirato, Yūshi Wakui, Yoshiyasu Hiraoka
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L'incendiaire 2014

8.0 / 10 74 Ratings
A popular perfume by Serge Lutens for women and men, released in 2014. The scent is smoky-woody. It was last marketed by Shiseido Group / Beauté Prestige International.
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Main accords

Smoky
Woody
Resinous
Spicy
Oriental
Videos
Ratings
Scent
8.074 Ratings
Longevity
7.953 Ratings
Sillage
7.152 Ratings
Bottle
8.061 Ratings
Value for money
4.711 Ratings
Submitted by Kankuro · last update on 07/11/2025.
Source-backed & verified
Interesting Facts
L'incendiaire won the 2017 Silver Award of the Japanese Package Design Association.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
Nanban by Arquiste
Nanban
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Terroni
Sahara Noir by Tom Ford
Sahara Noir

Reviews

6 in-depth fragrance descriptions
8Scent
ScentFan

336 Reviews
ScentFan
ScentFan
3  
Mild Fire
The arsonist. No notes listed in our database. On his website, SL says he wants “to put the fire back in perfume.” First sniff, lovely. Plenty of incense and woods in here, resins. Can I identify them? Surely frankincense. SL’s beloved cedar? Ok, Surrender to Chance says the notes are geranium, carnation, woods and incense. Yes, I can smell carnation. This is another beauty in which notes blend and virtually disappear, leaving a lovely overall impression, if a light one, as it dries. I think I much prefer the definiteness of, say, Jovoy’s La Liturgie des Heures, which rocks its incense and woods, or Bohemian Black by House of Matriarch. That’s personal preference, though, and shouldn’t diminish L’incendiaire’s charm to those who prefer subtler scents. In fact, I’m liking it more as it dries and am beginning to think I could wear it when I want to feel smoky without sending the air up in flames. The carnation and geranium rise more and are beautiful.
1 Comment
K1

121 Reviews
K1
K1
Helpful Review 1  
Smoldering - warm spicy - woody amber
Thanks to the hype trend of oud and ambers I have tried many gems in a galaxy of ordinaries, but L'Incendiaire is truly an exceptional quality. Not severe, introvert, exotic and woody like an old book of magic. In spite of its murmured performance a premium amber, plus dry animalic oud and myrrh deliver a comfortable smoldering mood, nevertheless, its prodigious priced and nothing new in return may turn Lutens fans dizzy. It's a unique experience of oud and darkness in modest longevity but it's an oud after all. Could be a hit ten years ago.
3/5
0 Comments
Turandot

843 Reviews
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Turandot
Turandot
Top Review 47  
A new star in the fragrance sky?
When I recently repurchased Feminite du Bois at the Lutens counter, I unexpectedly found myself engaged in an enriching discussion about fragrances with the brand representative. It was evidently enjoyable for both of us, as she asked me to wait a moment after our farewell, only to slip a mini of L`Incendiaire into my Lutens bag. She didn't have a tester of the fragrance yet and had just received 3 minis as "sales support." So she gave me the last one, saying, "I am convinced you will appreciate it."

Well, let's see, I was skeptical. I first noticed that there were only a few drops left in the bottle. This supports her statement that she doesn't have a tester available. I assume the last mini has been repurposed from time to time. I don't mind that; on the contrary, it makes the little bottle, the precious drops, and her gesture even more valuable to me.

We are well acquainted with oriental incense fragrances. This is nothing particularly new or surprising for me. However, what fascinates me about L`Incendiaire is the feeling that I don't really sense a smoky fragrance here. Nothing that provokes a cough or makes you wave your hand. No, the perfume feels to me less smoky and more resinous-balsamic. As if I were sticking my nose into the drawer at my old pharmacy, where incense or myrrh are still waiting for buyers. The resin clumps are not burning yet; they smell clean to me. I can also detect spices, or rather exclude them. The spicy notes are present, but in my opinion, they don't come from cinnamon or cloves, as there's no cookie aroma spreading, and nothing reminds me of kitchen herbs. Still, it's not just incense and woods, but a sensual spectrum of fine spices.

I feel similarly about Kyoto or Avignon from CdG. Those are also incense fragrances for me that lack smokiness. However, they feel genuinely Asian to me, while I instinctively place L`Incendiaire in the Arab corner. Please don't ask me why. I can't describe it; everyone has to test it for themselves.

I will also refrain from speculating about individual fragrance notes. L`Incendiaire is far too rounded for that. It feels cohesive, closed, complete. That may sound strange, but that's how I perceive the scent.

I have a divided relationship with Lutens fragrances. Not all of them convince me; some I loved until they became annoying. For example, Cedré soon became too overwhelming for me. I could imagine that this wouldn't happen with L`Incendiaire, as it is much less ostentatious. I won't find myself in the position to determine that, as the price far exceeds my means. Nevertheless, the perfume is on my wish list, as that is already utopian.

Is this now an improvement over the conventional Lutens fragrances? Does L`Incendiaire deserve the black-golden outfit in which it presents itself, or could it have simply been released as a new Lutens fragrance with a corresponding price? I mean, if Lutens is launching an exclusive line, then the perfume is indeed a worthy start. Yes, Serge Lutens (or whoever created the fragrance) has put effort into it.
14 Comments
loewenherz

920 Reviews
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loewenherz
loewenherz
Top Review 27  
The one who hums quiet children's songs while cleaning his axe
L'incendiaire, 'the arsonist', was the first fragrance from the Section d'Or, whose ingredients Serge Lutens - known for challenging, at times downright difficult perfumes - does not disclose and to which he gave all challenging, difficult names - as if he wanted to further amplify the signature of his house in its golden line. In presentation and his usual sparse marketing, he surrounds this golden line with something foreign and mysterious - stylizing his perfumes even more as art - and thus sets the expectations of all those who already know (and appreciate) his scents not exactly low.

L'incendiaire focuses on incense - not surprisingly given its name - yet it is quiet and understated - and not a wildly flaming fire scent. And it does not tell tales of the Silk Road and fragrant caravanserais, but rather presents a strangely cool and deconstructed incense scent with an almost medicinal quality - in its connotations, it is closer to a pharmacy than a bathhouse. It is a strong and present fragrance full of weight and yet strangely weightless - like thick, pale gray paint slightly enveloping something in a contemporary art museum that remains clearly recognizable in its contours yet appears distant and foreign.

Conclusion: there is something unsettling about L'incendiaire - something that disturbs me without the triggering accord being clearly identifiable. In its cold smokiness resides something uprooted and homeless, demanding distance and allowing no closeness. Like bird songs while the camera silently glides over a nighttime car graveyard - or the dreamy smile of a man cleaning his axe while he quietly hums children's songs.
8 Comments
Ergoproxy

1131 Reviews
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Ergoproxy
Ergoproxy
Top Review 3  
Burning Spice Stand
So now Lutens too!

In addition to the fragrances for the general public, there now also has to be an exclusive fragrance line. A trend is there to be followed, after all. Whether this market strategy makes sense for SL is another question.

In the case of the exclusive arsonist, one now has to dig a little deeper into their pockets if they want to get their hands on it, and whether this investment is worth it is something everyone has to decide for themselves. In my case, my price pain threshold has clearly been exceeded, even though the 50 ml content is said to be an Extrait according to the lady at AH.

As the name suggests, L'incendiaire is a smoky perfume.

The opening of L'incendiaire will likely scare off some test subjects. Here, one is practically thrown into a smokehouse, and I briefly think of Black Forest ham. I have encountered such a note in two patchouli fragrances (Acqua di Colonia - Patchouli by Santa Maria Novella and Patchouli 24 by Le Labo).

But the ham is quickly consumed, and now L'incendiaire develops into a balsamic oriental incense scent and does not change anymore. Somehow, L'incendiaire strikes me as if the arsonist has set a spice stand on fire, and I can distinctly identify frankincense as the main note. Naming additional components would be pure speculation, as the fragrance is composed far too densely for that.

I cannot attribute a lavish projection to L'incendiaire. Although I applied the fragrance generously, it remains quite close to me and my surroundings. The longevity is quite good, but I cannot perceive the scent for more than 10 hours.

Anyone who loves L'incendiaire but does not want to spend that much money, or cannot, should take a look at the incense fragrances from Miller Harris, which can easily compete with this Lutens. In the end, however, personal taste is what matters here too.
18 Comments
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Statements

14 short views on the fragrance
1
Not worth the exorbitant price tag, but it is a dusky, rich fragrance that intoxicates with a touch of liquorice without overpowering.
0 Comments
1
Initially rubbery and earthy-spicy, a warm and dry, gently smoky, oriental resinous-woody Winter fragrance, with a dusty earthy-woody base.
0 Comments
1
Flaming resins and spices give a dense balsamic, slightly sweet and voluminous smoke. Gorgeous!
0 Comments
This is stunning. A smokey, resinous amber with hints of honey and naughty bits via the oud. No comment on the price. Love.
0 Comments
9 years ago
19
2
50ml = 450€!!!
It can't be that great.
I don't even want to calculate how long I'd have to work for that...
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2 Comments
16
3
An interesting phenomenon of a resinous-spicy-smoky scent that still doesn't come off as overpowering. Very classy, very elegant, very balanced!
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3 Comments
2 years ago
14
7
After the burn. Frankincense smolders/cools under herbal-sweet incense ash. Slightly animalic-leathery. Like VARANASI, but gentle/moderate.
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7 Comments
12
5
Catapult to fragrance heaven.
Take a seat. Just be brave. Fire away!
You're accompanied by the finest wisps of smoke.
Landing in balsamic care.
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5 Comments
9 years ago
10
1
One of the most elegant pyromaniacs I know.
Refined, noble, and easily ignitable.
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1 Comment
7 years ago
5
Smells like an incense stick. It's a really great scent, but the price is absurd and seems more prohibitive than justifiably high in quality.
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