04/13/2013

Drseid
819 Reviews

Drseid
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11
Duchaufour's Refined Take On Oud And Spice...
Oud Shamash opens with a gentle mist of fine pink pepper with saffron and cinnamon spice support. As the scent enters its early heart the pepper dissipates but the saffron and cinnamon both remain, now joined by an underlying cedar-like woody accord and very polished just slightly rubbery Laotian Oud rising from the base. By the time the progression reaches the late dry-down, the overall accord turns just slightly sweet as non-powdery bourbon vanilla and cinnamon-like tolu balsam join the remnants of the relatively smooth Oud and remaining spice to give a warming effect to the composition. Projection is average and longevity is good at about 10-12 hours on skin.
Oud Shamash is a very complex slightly sweet, spicy woody oriental that is one of the best things Bertrand Duchaufour has composed to date (and that is a great compliment indeed). It is highly refined, but despite its immense polish it never loses its character. The drivers of the composition are just as much the saffron, cinnamon and tolu balsam as is the Laotian Oud, and the overall effect is all the notes and accords acting in symphonic rhythm and harmony. I do believe the composition contains real Oud, but those looking for its raw animalic qualities will not find much of those here, as the composition uses the note in a friendlier implementation, eschewing some of its more challenging and overpowering facets to allow the rest of the notes to shine nearly as bright. The bottom line is Duchaufour has a masterpiece caliber Oud-centric work here, and it sits right alongside Oud Louban by Aftelier and Les Nombres d'Or Oud by Mona di Orio as one of my three favorite uses of the material in fragrances. Similar to those other greats, Oud Shamash is on the relatively expensive side at $195 for 50ml, but when compared to those other real Oud compositions (and many synthetic ones) it is actually on the inexpensive side in comparison. If you like your Oud compositions more animalic and potent with the Oud playing the monster starring role, then this one may not be your cup of tea, but those seeking their Oud compositions with more refinement, complexity and control should definitely seek this one out for a sniff as it is a towering 4.5+ star out of 5 achievement.
Oud Shamash is a very complex slightly sweet, spicy woody oriental that is one of the best things Bertrand Duchaufour has composed to date (and that is a great compliment indeed). It is highly refined, but despite its immense polish it never loses its character. The drivers of the composition are just as much the saffron, cinnamon and tolu balsam as is the Laotian Oud, and the overall effect is all the notes and accords acting in symphonic rhythm and harmony. I do believe the composition contains real Oud, but those looking for its raw animalic qualities will not find much of those here, as the composition uses the note in a friendlier implementation, eschewing some of its more challenging and overpowering facets to allow the rest of the notes to shine nearly as bright. The bottom line is Duchaufour has a masterpiece caliber Oud-centric work here, and it sits right alongside Oud Louban by Aftelier and Les Nombres d'Or Oud by Mona di Orio as one of my three favorite uses of the material in fragrances. Similar to those other greats, Oud Shamash is on the relatively expensive side at $195 for 50ml, but when compared to those other real Oud compositions (and many synthetic ones) it is actually on the inexpensive side in comparison. If you like your Oud compositions more animalic and potent with the Oud playing the monster starring role, then this one may not be your cup of tea, but those seeking their Oud compositions with more refinement, complexity and control should definitely seek this one out for a sniff as it is a towering 4.5+ star out of 5 achievement.
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