Sweet grass and I, we are really thick as thieves - whether in Encre Noire, Lalique White, Terre d’Hermes, Vetiver Extreme, Kenzo Air Intense, Aedes de Venustas, or - in a more homeopathic dosage - in Infusion d’Homme. We are such good buddies that I felt a strong urge for a fling (which may be due to my recent experiences: A particularly uncouth representative of the sweet grass species really knocked my olfactory bulb around. Nevertheless: even Heeley's Etude Vetiver Veritas does not fail to impress me).
It was quickly clear with whom I wanted to stray: I had chosen the lovely Iris to bring me pleasure. I succumbed to her charms in Prada's Infusion d’Homme, although at first it was a somewhat learned exercise: The compatibility between her lovely powderiness and my masculine self-image seemed too low. "Such girly nonsense!" my testicles scoffed, seemingly completely immune to the charm of the iris. My nose knew better: It fell in love with Prada's Infusion - at least so sustainably that my fingers are now repeatedly drawn to the bottle when choosing a fragrance.
No wonder that during my next stroll, Bois d’Iris from TDC nearly swept me off my feet, until… "Another girly nonsense, and we're outta here!" my testicles grimly declare, and I, weakling, give in - for now! So instead, I say hello to my best buddy (see above), who then steps in with various compositions completely unknown to me, to delight my nose once again. He struts quite stylishly in Vétiver Fatal - but after my experiences with his rough buddy Veritas, he comes off a bit too modest here, no matter how fatal he may feel.
Finally, the sales associate I trust brings me another scent strip. A cloud of cardamom accompanies him, citrusy and surrounded by a noble grapefruit that must have spent its youth at an elite boarding school in England: such a present understatement takes some getting used to. Next to it, a hint of sweet grass wafts in the top note: Not a rooty fellow, but a barbershop-friendly companion with good manners and distinction. (Alright - maybe he has a three-day beard - despite the barbershop - and wears jeans with a blazer; but otherwise: total gentleman!)
Grapefruit on vetiver - how original, I think at first, and send a prayer to the father of the perfumer, hoping he doesn't genetically measure every scent. Thank goodness the cardamom is still swirling in the mix: The daughter is obviously emancipated and bridges the gap to the classic soapy vetiver narrative with the spicy pod - at least that's what I think, and I resolutely demand to moisturize my skin.
(I skip the analogous development on the living object, the purchase, the journey home, and all the other stuff that has happened since, and I will henceforth strive to stay closer to the topic. I promise! That I will try! Not that it will necessarily succeed…)
The scent does not develop classically soapy, of course (even if a hint of geranium does not block that path). Instead, the perfumer sprinkles salt on the grapefruit. It tingles quite a bit and also sets my buddy in motion: The vetiver vibes grow stronger, and the scent lives up to its name. I look at my forearm and wait for white salt deposits to appear on my skin when - completely unexpectedly - my scorned darling takes the stage.
I bet not even my sales associate has the cast list of this play so precisely in mind when he offers me Sel de Vetiver. If he does, I tip my hat to his expertise: First, the customer wants iris, then not, then vetiver (of course retold) - and what does my advisor do? He conjures Sel de Vetiver with iris out of the hat (which I take the opportunity to tip again!)
What particularly delights me is the fact that it is not the top note that elevates the scent: The start is quite successful, but free of any real uniqueness. It becomes exciting when the spray of sea foam enters the aroma and spreads its salty breath; contrary to what the fragrance pyramid suggests, this happens quite early (and with some force). At some point, however, the waves (almost literally) smooth out, and the salt attack subsides. What remains is the memory of a sea whose shores are lined with vetiver-covered dunes. Light driftwood, polished by water and sand, lies between the stalks. As the sun slowly sets, delicate mist veils drift over the dunes towards the sea in the offshore wind. They cover the blades of vetiver with a touch of fresh water, enveloping them gently and leaving the ethereal aroma of the iris root.
Night falls. The sea rests quietly and silently. Peace.
What do my testicles say about this iris? With all due respect - they are indeed sensitive to pain, but not necessarily sensitive; so far, they haven't even realized that I have betrayed them. Let's just leave it at that.
So far, the longevity seems to be in a good medium range, while the sillage appears a bit aquatic and weak. For the duration of the salt-vetiver accord, this might be more environmentally friendly, but in the further development of the scent, it is more than regrettable: for me, Sel de Vetiver is one of those rarely sown fragrances that lead their development to perfection in the base.
The Different Company forgoes any frills with the bottle and prints the almost square glass body with simple black letters. Together with the heavy cap, this creates a very high-quality appearance free from dramatic flourishes.
For the drama, the salt inclusion is responsible anyway. Those who cannot befriend it will not find happiness with Sel de Vetiver. All those who are in the mood for a sweet grass encounter of a somewhat maritime kind could find what they are looking for here - even if the scent has its cumbersome moments. But at the latest in the base note, Sel de Vetiver reveals a peaceful beauty of the finest class.
Rating: particularly valuable!
P.S.: The fact that someone like me, who tends to not undervalue linearity in fragrances, so willingly embraces Sel de Vetiver has another, very concrete reason: This water masters "olfactory storytelling" and takes the wearer on an adventurous journey to the sea…