Cardamom
Lavender
Saffron
Ambrox
Leather
Patchouli
Vanilla
Geranium
Elysium
898 Reviews
Elysium
3
As Complex As Hegel’s Thinking
Maybe there is a reason this fragrance is getting negative reviews and low rates, although I don’t consider it a bad fragrance, but a complex fragrance. Although its notes are almost ordinary, with no usual or out-of-the-ordinary notes, the result is unusual, almost as if it were a niche perfume for intellectuals, individualists, and non-conformists, created specifically to please a few. It is no coincidence that the nose Ilias Ermenidis has niche perfumes behind him, created for the brands Nishane, Kayali, Goldfield & Banks, and perhaps he also wanted to create an original perfume for ZARA not to please the masses. I must confess that I too, the first time I tried the three fragrances in this series, turned up my nose slightly, out of ignorance and not disgust, preferring Antique Brown, warmer, more pleasant, and flattering. Indeed, Absolutely Dark was so close to A&F Fierce that I skipped it as I have a few dupes already. Nostalgia Blue almost seems to be shy, introverted, grumpy, prickly, laconic, of few words, that it doesn’t want to socialize with those around it, at least not at the first meeting. I realize that I am describing myself and that Nostalgia Blue is my image reflected in the mirror. It is precisely this dark, slightly nostalgic character that made me change my mind and pushed me to buy it after trying it again and again, to learn about it, and perhaps understand the thoughts of the master Ermenidis. A complex thought like that of the philosopher Hegel.
What makes this fragrance complex? I’ll start describing it by saying it’s indescribable. Don’t make the mistake of associating it with Bleu de Chanel or Sauvage because the Blue here is misleading. It finds it very difficult to present itself and does not use the classic common means. Nostalgia Blue is warm, spicy, aromatic, just a tad rosy and earthy. There are no citric, airy, or aldehydic notes or chords. If there is a whiff of citrus by mistake, the cold spicy edges immediately swallow and absorb it. The thorns that surround the opening are a tangle of aromatic cardamom intertwined with sour saffron. If the cardamom is barely identifiable, the leathery saffron that we often find in other fragrances is unrecognisable. I feel it is there, but I struggle to recognise it. If you think that this indescribable agreement will dissolve soon, you are wrong. The perfume evolves but always maintains balance on this common thread. So complicated, yet so interesting. Without impulses towards a particular genre. Niche, pure niche.
After roughly an hour, in the heart, leathery reflections appear, thin, smooth, and closer to tender suede, which complements the green and slightly pink notes of geranium and the more herbaceous notes of lavender. Underneath, a background of saffron, always acidic, is more subtle but constantly present. Lavender contributes in its fullness, with flowers, spikes, and dry leaves to recall the scents of hay bales and immortal flowers. It is both herbaceous and creamy but never medicinal. A smidgen of smokiness and resinousness makes me think of unburnt olibanum, or frankincense, more sappy than fumy or liturgical.
In the dry-down, something changes. I get a warm and spicy vanilla that rounds out all the sharp edges of the other notes, supported by a modern and cleaned-up patchouli. Nice spicy vanilla, with no trace of pastry or cake-like aroma. In all phases, and slightly more in the base, there is a salty touch of synthetic amber, pleasant and not over-dosed or overbearing, never dominant. It’s simply stunning and I’m drawn to it, with the interplay between vanilla, amber, and patchouli balanced perfectly on me.
I have written many reviews, but never before has it been so difficult like this time. Nothing is as it seems. If I had to describe the perfume in one sentence, it would be “A modern touch for a vintage garment”. Besides being indescribable, indecipherable, almost secretive, to my nose, it doesn’t resemble any of the perfumes I’ve smelled so far. I think it is appropriate for spring and autumn days, discreet and intimate, quite formal, to be worn in free time and in the office. It is not suffocating and does not disturb those around us. Projection and duration are moderate, with a scent on the skin that is felt for a few hours. Not as strong as the other two, but it lasts much longer on fabric. I don’t recommend buying it blindly, still, it deserves more than one try. As often happens, I go against the grain and appreciate this perfume, which is a little too underestimated by influencers and YouTubers.
I'm formulating my thoughts on a bottle I've owned since September 2023 (BC 32211).
-Elysium
What makes this fragrance complex? I’ll start describing it by saying it’s indescribable. Don’t make the mistake of associating it with Bleu de Chanel or Sauvage because the Blue here is misleading. It finds it very difficult to present itself and does not use the classic common means. Nostalgia Blue is warm, spicy, aromatic, just a tad rosy and earthy. There are no citric, airy, or aldehydic notes or chords. If there is a whiff of citrus by mistake, the cold spicy edges immediately swallow and absorb it. The thorns that surround the opening are a tangle of aromatic cardamom intertwined with sour saffron. If the cardamom is barely identifiable, the leathery saffron that we often find in other fragrances is unrecognisable. I feel it is there, but I struggle to recognise it. If you think that this indescribable agreement will dissolve soon, you are wrong. The perfume evolves but always maintains balance on this common thread. So complicated, yet so interesting. Without impulses towards a particular genre. Niche, pure niche.
After roughly an hour, in the heart, leathery reflections appear, thin, smooth, and closer to tender suede, which complements the green and slightly pink notes of geranium and the more herbaceous notes of lavender. Underneath, a background of saffron, always acidic, is more subtle but constantly present. Lavender contributes in its fullness, with flowers, spikes, and dry leaves to recall the scents of hay bales and immortal flowers. It is both herbaceous and creamy but never medicinal. A smidgen of smokiness and resinousness makes me think of unburnt olibanum, or frankincense, more sappy than fumy or liturgical.
In the dry-down, something changes. I get a warm and spicy vanilla that rounds out all the sharp edges of the other notes, supported by a modern and cleaned-up patchouli. Nice spicy vanilla, with no trace of pastry or cake-like aroma. In all phases, and slightly more in the base, there is a salty touch of synthetic amber, pleasant and not over-dosed or overbearing, never dominant. It’s simply stunning and I’m drawn to it, with the interplay between vanilla, amber, and patchouli balanced perfectly on me.
I have written many reviews, but never before has it been so difficult like this time. Nothing is as it seems. If I had to describe the perfume in one sentence, it would be “A modern touch for a vintage garment”. Besides being indescribable, indecipherable, almost secretive, to my nose, it doesn’t resemble any of the perfumes I’ve smelled so far. I think it is appropriate for spring and autumn days, discreet and intimate, quite formal, to be worn in free time and in the office. It is not suffocating and does not disturb those around us. Projection and duration are moderate, with a scent on the skin that is felt for a few hours. Not as strong as the other two, but it lasts much longer on fabric. I don’t recommend buying it blindly, still, it deserves more than one try. As often happens, I go against the grain and appreciate this perfume, which is a little too underestimated by influencers and YouTubers.
I'm formulating my thoughts on a bottle I've owned since September 2023 (BC 32211).
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