08/25/2023
Elysium
816 Reviews
Elysium
Helpful Review
5
The Earthy Smell At The Crack Of Dawn
Lush Vetiver is the second perfume that Gael Montero has created for Zara in this recent Fragrance Series N°3 collection, together with Tender Amber. Very different from the latter, the dominant accords are citrus, herbaceous, and spicy, with slight hints of leather and musk. It is an airy, modern, clean, and gentle interpretation of vetiver. It has little to do with the cheeky and dirty vetiver of my beloved Encre Noire Eau de Toilette or the more aromatic one of Cacharel pour L'Homme Eau de Toilette . Suppose you are wondering about the previous vetiver-based ZARA editions. In that case, I can tell you that it is nothing like any of the predecessors, including Zara Emotions N°01 - Vetiver Pamplemousse Eau de Parfum, Raw Vetiver, and Vetiver unexpected.
Stoney citrus peel oils are the aromas that explode when I spray Vetiver Lush. A small piece of bergamot tries to filter between a semi-bitter and mineral leading player, grapefruit, and a good dose of peppercorns that add depth. For a while, the other notes are still quiet and dormant. One might think of a new cologne if one gives up at this point. Instead, upon wearing it, its intricate blend of notes immediately captivated me. The semi-tart opening offers a refreshing burst reminiscent of a crisp morning breeze after a downpour. On my skin, I get an added soapy lemon undertone that is reminiscent of Marseille soap; in case you missed it, it’s a type of soap made from olive oil and has a unique smell that is often described as similar to a freshly cut lemon. As the tartness subsides, the spiciness of the pepper grows and grows, making the opening more fizzy while still keeping it fresh. I would say a citrus and spicy start.
When it enters the central phase, in the heart, I get the slightly leathery undertones of saffron in the background but very subdued, standing to the side. It does not paw, far from being a dominant, raw, or rude saffron. Compared to the other pieces of the same collection, i.e. Tobacco Sublime and Spell Caramel, the tobacco note here is practically invisible, ephemeral, drowned in the concoction and dominated by other more powerful notes. There is no trace of talcum powder, neither here nor in the different phases—a velvety heart-like chamois, tart, with hints of freshly cut hay.
You feel the entrance towards the drying phase when the greenish and herbaceous vetiver emerges, more similar to fresh lanceolate leaves than dried earthy roots. At this point, the combination of bright citrus with moist earth and metallic undertones is nothing short of magical. Now that the vetiver is at its peak, a robust dose of vegetal green musk, patchouli cleaned fresh and devoid of chocolaty nuances, and dried oak wood are the contours, soiling the herbaceous note with hints that take on a masculine impetus. The use of oak wood avoids that hint of sawdust typical of cedar wood or the Iso E Super molecule. I seldom get the real leathery note, at least not as clearly as in perfumes like Ombré Leather (2018) Eau de Parfum.
I get primarily in Vetiver Lush the citrus, earthy, and woody accords of grapefruit, vetiver, and oak wood, respectively. However, I noticed that the fragrance becomes more intimate over time, expressing itself less outwardly but maintaining its essence on the skin. Being of recent production, the perfume needs to mature through a maceration period; it may be more powerful and decadent in a few months. I’m struck by how strong the projection I get from the blotter is still. As I finish writing this review, pleasant whiffs of the fragrance caress my nostrils, more potent than any I applied to my skin yesterday. Lush Vetiver is a well-worn perfume during the hottest days of the spring, summer and autumn. As already mentioned to me, it has a moderate projection and duration. I changed my mind, and after my initial hesitation and doubts, I must admit that it is an excellent creation, so much so that it deserves a whole 8.
I'm basing my review on a bottle I've owned since August 2023.
-Elysium
Stoney citrus peel oils are the aromas that explode when I spray Vetiver Lush. A small piece of bergamot tries to filter between a semi-bitter and mineral leading player, grapefruit, and a good dose of peppercorns that add depth. For a while, the other notes are still quiet and dormant. One might think of a new cologne if one gives up at this point. Instead, upon wearing it, its intricate blend of notes immediately captivated me. The semi-tart opening offers a refreshing burst reminiscent of a crisp morning breeze after a downpour. On my skin, I get an added soapy lemon undertone that is reminiscent of Marseille soap; in case you missed it, it’s a type of soap made from olive oil and has a unique smell that is often described as similar to a freshly cut lemon. As the tartness subsides, the spiciness of the pepper grows and grows, making the opening more fizzy while still keeping it fresh. I would say a citrus and spicy start.
When it enters the central phase, in the heart, I get the slightly leathery undertones of saffron in the background but very subdued, standing to the side. It does not paw, far from being a dominant, raw, or rude saffron. Compared to the other pieces of the same collection, i.e. Tobacco Sublime and Spell Caramel, the tobacco note here is practically invisible, ephemeral, drowned in the concoction and dominated by other more powerful notes. There is no trace of talcum powder, neither here nor in the different phases—a velvety heart-like chamois, tart, with hints of freshly cut hay.
You feel the entrance towards the drying phase when the greenish and herbaceous vetiver emerges, more similar to fresh lanceolate leaves than dried earthy roots. At this point, the combination of bright citrus with moist earth and metallic undertones is nothing short of magical. Now that the vetiver is at its peak, a robust dose of vegetal green musk, patchouli cleaned fresh and devoid of chocolaty nuances, and dried oak wood are the contours, soiling the herbaceous note with hints that take on a masculine impetus. The use of oak wood avoids that hint of sawdust typical of cedar wood or the Iso E Super molecule. I seldom get the real leathery note, at least not as clearly as in perfumes like Ombré Leather (2018) Eau de Parfum.
I get primarily in Vetiver Lush the citrus, earthy, and woody accords of grapefruit, vetiver, and oak wood, respectively. However, I noticed that the fragrance becomes more intimate over time, expressing itself less outwardly but maintaining its essence on the skin. Being of recent production, the perfume needs to mature through a maceration period; it may be more powerful and decadent in a few months. I’m struck by how strong the projection I get from the blotter is still. As I finish writing this review, pleasant whiffs of the fragrance caress my nostrils, more potent than any I applied to my skin yesterday. Lush Vetiver is a well-worn perfume during the hottest days of the spring, summer and autumn. As already mentioned to me, it has a moderate projection and duration. I changed my mind, and after my initial hesitation and doubts, I must admit that it is an excellent creation, so much so that it deserves a whole 8.
I'm basing my review on a bottle I've owned since August 2023.
-Elysium
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