Vetiverich is the second perfume I added to the collection from this series. Not for a matter of taste, but mostly because
(Wood Legacy) seemed like something new to me that I had never heard before, and therefore I gave it a purchasing priority. Yet, without hesitation, Vetiverich won me over at the first sniff. When I wrote the Wood Legacy review, I thought the bottle was similar to the one used for the Metallics series. But I was wrong since a similar bottle was already used for the Le Parfum series. Once the cap is removed, which has a different shape between the two series, the bottles are identical.
Regarding the perfume, as I had already observed during the first test, the formula seems inspired by
Encre Noire Eau de Toilette, in which vetiver releases the darker aromas of roots, earth, and ink. It is a mineral and woody vetiver that takes on various nuances during its evolution but still has a strong accent of wet earth. With my comparison, I don't want to say that Vetiverich is a clone of Encre Noire but to underline that it is the type of vetiver we find in this perfume.
Vetiverich, at the opening, releases a green citrus accord composed of oils of lemon peels, bitter oranges, and bergamots with an alcoholic background. Beyond this mixture of citrus fruits lies a cold accord that recalls ozone and metal. It's almost like smelling the fresh air that heralds the arrival of a summer storm. Besides, imagine a stroll in the woods after a rain, with moist air, wet soil, foliage, and the sunrays filtering through the trees. The pear note does not reach my nose clearly. Still, it has happened before that my sense of smell has struggled to recognize this synthetic fruity note, while the harsher edges of the saffron flower dirty the opening notes exaggeratedly. However, as soon as the alcoholic presence disappears, the tart citrus fruits and spicy saffron create an excellent accord. Don't be afraid; it is not the dark and dense saffron typical of Middle Eastern essences. Meanwhile, from the base notes rises an overdose of woody nuances, those of Iso E Super. Fresh and slightly bitter opening, no trace of sweet notes.
After about ten minutes, the fragrance warms up, emitting a green and floral accord. It's bizarre how the same perfume releases two different agreements, depending on the distance from which it is smelled. If from afar you can feel the presence of purple flowers such as lavender and lilac, together with the delicate ones of the rose, from a very close distance, the greenish notes of the foliage, violet, jasmine, sage and geranium prevail. All green and fleshy leaves contribute to forming the green, slightly powdery, ozonic and metallic accord. The essence may release a disturbing scent similar to rotten jasmine flowers when the white jasmine buds, after a few days, gradually take on a yellowish colour. Perhaps the jasmine leaves smell that way. But I repeat, they can only be felt by placing the nose on the point of application for a very short period and never from the proper distance. The heart maintains a watery, green, floral profile, tending towards balsamic.
The perfume persists with the heart accords for a few hours before changing towards the base notes. So the nuances of vetiver appear, recalling the smell of fresh paint and turpentine. Indeed, those of patent leather are widely used in luxury fashion, especially for accessories, shoes and bags. A musky, moist, camphoraceous, and even slightly smoky and resinous veil remains on the skin for hours, with touches that resemble pine needles. It certainly requires wearing a few times before fully understanding its character. But the perfume passes through three strategic points: the initial citrus green one, then moving on to the floral green one, and finally, the more woody and earthy one, with a perfect touch of amber. Throughout the journey, vetiver and cedar wood dominate. A note for all coumarin detractors: this perfume has no coumarins, which means neither vanilla nor tonka in the formula to dulcify it. This might be worth considering if you're not a fan of sweet scents.
In conclusion, Vetiverich and Encre Noire have several points in common and strike very similar notes and chords when tested side by side. Vetiverich is less smoky than Encre Noire despite riding the path of ink. The elusive ink note adds a unique facet to fragrance compositions. Its sooty, camphorous scent lends a beguiling hook to top notes. I wore it yesterday, a Sunday in June that was still a little warm, and I must admit that its performance satisfied me. Not at all annoying. I felt its facets very well for the first three hours, and then it slowly settled on the skin. It belongs to those molecular perfumes that you quickly get used to, but the scent reappears clearly now and then. It dresses well in the intermediate and summer seasons, fresh and pleasant, both during the day and in the evening, when the scorching sunsets, under light linen, hemp and cotton fabrics, white shirts, and so on. My intuition was correct, and this perfume did not disappoint my expectations.
I'm basing my feelings on a bottle I've owned since June 2024 (BC 41020).
-Elysium