07/20/2023
Elysium
816 Reviews
Elysium
2
Vicks Inhalant Nasal Stick
It must be understood that this is Jo’s rhubarb. She did it her way. And she did it very well, no doubt about it. We recognise rhubarb by its bright pink and scarlet red fleshy stems and sour taste, something not well defined between fruits and vegetables. Since perfumers cannot naturally extract the perfume from this plant, the nose creates a wonderful effect by blending other ingredients to reproduce the same smell. Known by our ancestors, rhubarb has its roots in antiquity. Marco Polo introduced it in Europe, and it was initially used for its medicinal and ornamental properties. Its consumption as a vegetable began around the thirteenth century and spread as a filling for pies. But be careful; only the stems are edible; the leaves are not.
When I first saw the perfume on the shelf, herbal Rabarbaro immediately came to mind. They centre both on this note, but the perfumes appear different, and their evolution follows two distinct paths. Jo’s Rhubard is more sour, green, and vivid, while l’Erbolario Rhubarb takes a powdery twist. On the nose, the first whiff appears pretty sharp, sour, green, aromatic, mentholated, and a little balsamic. I get a lovely shiver, and it immediately reminds me of a smell I often smelled as a child, a familiar smell I hadn’t smelled in a long, too long time. I focused by spraying several times on the skin to feel the opening notes again until the image associated with that smell appeared. Gotcha! Vicks inhalant nasal stick, the VapoInhaler, a cold reliever famous in the 1950s, with camphor combined with menthol. It takes a blink of an eye but is vivid and perceptible, unquestionably that smell. While many people find the opening similar to Zara Emotions N°01 - Vetiver Pamplemousse Eau de Parfum, perhaps due to the grapefruit-vetiver duo, Jo’s Rhubarb is less tart and less bitter with that fruity rhubarb edge. Moreover, the bittersweet yellow citrus fruit, the grapefruit, is remarkable and persists for a long time, remaining in the background. I am certain that it is not only citrus but that bergamot and lemon support it without being revealed.
In the middle of the fragrance, the herbal rhubarb is the most noticeable thing. Tart, sharp, and zingy, at the same time sweet, fruity, refreshing, and green. I insist it is such a realistic smell, real rhubarb, so vivid and verdant; very authentic smelling rhubarb, not too sweet or fruity. If rhubarb’s smell does not acquaint you, think of something akin to celery and watermelon peel, the white layer between the red pulp and the green zest. And then, dry vetiver pops up while the bitter grapefruit still lingers with its richness and depth. It’s not a jammy rhubarb gourmand, though, just refreshing, cleaned-up rhubarb with a hint of sweetness, the right thing.
In all the stages, there is a sort of dark, green funk akin to cannabis, like someone is smoking weeds nearby, green, narcotic. Courtesy of the bold, grassy, and dry vetiver used in the formula, not too filthy, not too earthy, perhaps just a smidgen smoky. Delicious, smooth, and cosy. Imagine the mouthwatering grapefruit-vetiver duo in Zara Emotions N°01 - Vetiver Pamplemousse Eau de Parfum, enhanced by an enticing rhubarb nuance. The bottom line, it is all about tangy rhubarb with smoky vetiver and a smidgen of muskiness.
The mix of dominant notes makes it perfect for spring days and summer nights. More for casual, office, and dinner out. Although it calms down quite soon with a moderate projection, let’s say a couple of hours, it lasts many hours, and I can detect it the morning after if I spray it during the evening. This is not a monster projector but a pretty intimate scent in Jo Malone’s style.
I'm formulating my impression on a bottle I've owned since July 2023 (BC 11950).
-Elysium
When I first saw the perfume on the shelf, herbal Rabarbaro immediately came to mind. They centre both on this note, but the perfumes appear different, and their evolution follows two distinct paths. Jo’s Rhubard is more sour, green, and vivid, while l’Erbolario Rhubarb takes a powdery twist. On the nose, the first whiff appears pretty sharp, sour, green, aromatic, mentholated, and a little balsamic. I get a lovely shiver, and it immediately reminds me of a smell I often smelled as a child, a familiar smell I hadn’t smelled in a long, too long time. I focused by spraying several times on the skin to feel the opening notes again until the image associated with that smell appeared. Gotcha! Vicks inhalant nasal stick, the VapoInhaler, a cold reliever famous in the 1950s, with camphor combined with menthol. It takes a blink of an eye but is vivid and perceptible, unquestionably that smell. While many people find the opening similar to Zara Emotions N°01 - Vetiver Pamplemousse Eau de Parfum, perhaps due to the grapefruit-vetiver duo, Jo’s Rhubarb is less tart and less bitter with that fruity rhubarb edge. Moreover, the bittersweet yellow citrus fruit, the grapefruit, is remarkable and persists for a long time, remaining in the background. I am certain that it is not only citrus but that bergamot and lemon support it without being revealed.
In the middle of the fragrance, the herbal rhubarb is the most noticeable thing. Tart, sharp, and zingy, at the same time sweet, fruity, refreshing, and green. I insist it is such a realistic smell, real rhubarb, so vivid and verdant; very authentic smelling rhubarb, not too sweet or fruity. If rhubarb’s smell does not acquaint you, think of something akin to celery and watermelon peel, the white layer between the red pulp and the green zest. And then, dry vetiver pops up while the bitter grapefruit still lingers with its richness and depth. It’s not a jammy rhubarb gourmand, though, just refreshing, cleaned-up rhubarb with a hint of sweetness, the right thing.
In all the stages, there is a sort of dark, green funk akin to cannabis, like someone is smoking weeds nearby, green, narcotic. Courtesy of the bold, grassy, and dry vetiver used in the formula, not too filthy, not too earthy, perhaps just a smidgen smoky. Delicious, smooth, and cosy. Imagine the mouthwatering grapefruit-vetiver duo in Zara Emotions N°01 - Vetiver Pamplemousse Eau de Parfum, enhanced by an enticing rhubarb nuance. The bottom line, it is all about tangy rhubarb with smoky vetiver and a smidgen of muskiness.
The mix of dominant notes makes it perfect for spring days and summer nights. More for casual, office, and dinner out. Although it calms down quite soon with a moderate projection, let’s say a couple of hours, it lasts many hours, and I can detect it the morning after if I spray it during the evening. This is not a monster projector but a pretty intimate scent in Jo Malone’s style.
I'm formulating my impression on a bottle I've owned since July 2023 (BC 11950).
-Elysium
2 Comments
Lessthanzero
