HL.22 Harry Lehmann

The resemblance to Royal Oud is undeniable, and the inspiration is clearly felt. This fragrance stands out with a stronger and more balsamic opening, which might initially come across as a bit sharp. However, in the drydown, it evolves into a much smoother and rounder scent.

As one of the brand's recent releases – which, from what I gather, is undergoing a renewal process – it might lead some to suspect it's an attempt at a clone. Honestly, I'm unsure how much inspiration was drawn from Harry Lehmann's historical formulas, but I prefer to see it as a fragrance with its own distinct personality. Its excellent longevity, characteristic opening, and balsamic notes that linger well into the drydown make it a fantastic alternative for fans of this genre. A significant bonus is the availability of 30ml bottles: a practice many more niche brands should adopt.

I stopped by the Harry Lehmann boutique in Berlin and picked up, among others, a bottle of HL.22. Now I’ve got new batches of both Royal Oud and HL.22 to compare. They overlap by about 70%, but Creed is noticeably more refined. No miracles here, but great effort by HL. Performance wise, neither is impressive, they’re both pretty weak. One thing I do appreciate about Harry Lehmann is the option to buy any fragrance in 10, 30, or 100ml. I plan to use HL.22 layered with Royal Oud. Also, no need to rely on maceration in this case, since the bottle doesn’t sit sealed for months - when you make a purchase, the boutique staff simply pour the perfume from a large decanter into a small one for you.

The miracle has indeed happened: The Lehmann perfume manufactory on Kantstraße in Berlin, a highly original Prussian contribution to the world fragrance heritage, is back. Mr. Lehmann, the somewhat older but by no means frail last family heir of the business, passed away unexpectedly about a year ago, just before the 100th anniversary of the company, and certainly before the succession question was resolved. The quirky little shop was closed down, and I know no one who expected a reopening.

However, it seems that a motivated team of businesspeople and fragrance specialists, who respect the Lehmann legacy and operate somewhat mysteriously in the background, has come together to continue the brand and its offerings. What has been seen so far inspires unreserved optimism: The name "Harry Lehmann" remains, the historically grown fragrance assortment is being taken over, and the tradition of bottling in simple flacons of various desired sizes is being continued. Changes have been and will be made where I would have recommended them to the old Mr. Lehmann, who apparently was not a gifted businessman: terminating unfavorable licensing agreements, establishing a fully functional online shop, moderate price increases, and a careful decluttering of the shop (with the discontinuation of the iconic but ultimately unsuitable artificial flower department).

The fragrance assortment of the "new Harry Lehmann" is therefore almost the same as that which was offered at the time of the old Mr. Lehmann's death. However, two newcomers stand out, both in name: "HL 22" and "HL 33". At least with "HL 22", it is clearly a new creation and not a traditional Lehmann fragrance. For not only was there no fragrance of this name as of 2022/2023, but the new Lehmann website also promotes the scent as "born from the first perfumes created by Harry Lehmann." This seems to imply that this fragrance was somehow experimentally blended from the formulas of the earliest Lehmann originals (it is not specified whether from those still marketed or already discontinued, or from which ones at all).

The number 22 seems to refer less to the year 1922 (although the company's advertising cautiously alludes to the Roaring Twenties) and more to the ominous (and similarly ominously continued by the new owners) Lehmann numbering system. The fragrance is designated as No. 22 - I suspect that the numbering sequence is essentially chronological, but that numbers freed up by the discontinuation of fragrances have been and will be reassigned - and I would bet that this was also the case here.

I find the fragrance itself difficult to grasp and describe, especially since I cannot connect it to any prior reviews. Upon spraying, it initially impresses as demanding and harsh, bordering on dissonance, coming across as deep and underlying; its color, for me, is a deep purple. If I had to isolate individual notes, which is generally not my strength, I would associate fruity tones (leaning towards dark fig) and sinister spices.

After at most half an hour, the scene calms down noticeably, the fragrance becomes rounder and more pleasant, but remains dense and full-bodied (without being overwhelming). I would tend to deny floral and aldehydic notes (so much for the topic of the 20s); regarding flowers, I might not completely rule out dark, heavy hints of rose or hyacinth.

While the fragrance temperature fluctuates around the zero line between cautious coolness and earthy, unobtrusive warmth, and the fragrance remains compact, almost opaque in texture, appearance, and feel, earthy-brown notes emerge, which could plausibly be explained by the notes of angelica root and woods that are noted here at Parfumo (by whoever has sniffed them), although I do not perceive HL 22 as predominantly woody.

Later on, a cheeky minty note (with stevia sweetness) tickles my nose, reminding me of another numbered fragrance from Lehmann, namely the anniversary 90, and a gourmand note oscillating between bitter chocolate gingerbread and spiced speculoos joins in.

All in all, an exciting, absolutely not failed experiment and a beautiful scent, which, according to the unanimous vote of Ms. Spee and the reviewer, is worth testing for both men and women, even if it does not have what it takes to immediately become my favorite Lehmann.

Everything blends together here, nothing can be recognized individually, a mixture of cedarwood, sandalwood, bergamot, and something else woody that I can't define. Something then comes so strongly to the forefront that everything else is overshadowed.

I don't perceive any bergamot or even lemon at all, maybe a little musk but only because I've read about it. ;-)

It remains rather woody; I can't discern a proper scent progression. But that doesn't always have to be the case. A woody tone that runs through to the end is also quite nice.

One of the new Lehmann fragrances that is indeed successful and pleasant to wear.

... fragrance from this small perfume house because I am simply curious and also because I want to know what the brand is like. It arrived, and I unpacked it and tried it out immediately. What a burst of fragrance greets my nose here. I feel transported back to 1920s Berlin. The quality that this house produces is so high that I can only recommend it further, and here you can support a small perfume house from Germany, especially after they celebrated their hundredth birthday on Thursday, March 19, 2026. Congratulations on that!

When applying this fragrance, the first thing that hits the nose is a citrusy fresh spicy earthy scent, and I also perceive cardamom even though it is not listed in the fragrance pyramid, which reminds me a lot of "English Lavender / English Lavender Water | Atkinsons." Woody floral sharp resinous herbal notes mix in, making it quite bitter and strongly masculine before it becomes dry and powdery.

The longevity and sillage are exceptionally good.

Here we have a fragrance from the house of Harry Lehmann that is distinctly masculine, even though they always say all fragrances are unisex; I see this perfume clearly more suited for gentlemen than for ladies. I would set the entry age at around 25 and open it up from there. It is definitely an all-rounder that can be worn throughout the year. It is also an all-rounder for both day and evening. However, one must be clear that this fragrance is not discreet and unobtrusive.

If you enjoy a fragrance that starts off citrusy fresh and is earthy spicy woody floral sharp herbal bitter resinous dry powdery masculine, then you are exactly right here. This is not a run-of-the-mill scent but a distinctive men's fragrance at a very affordable price from a niche house.