Top Notes 
Heart Notes 
Base Notes 
05/28/2023
Elysium
816 Reviews
Elysium
Helpful Review
4
The Good Side Of Sulfur
Grapefruit is among the most commonly used essential oils in the top notes of many modern perfume formulations. It is also one of the main components of woody, aromatic and lighter summer fragrances. Although it belongs to the citrus family, grapefruit's invigorating yet elegant scent is unique and different from others. Like all citrus fruits, grapefruit is a Hesperidum, a large, modified berry with a thick skin. Its colour determines the range of fragrances. The white grapefruit notes are bitter and sharp, while the pink and red grapefruit tones are sugary and sensual. In Pamplemousse, we find the former, the driest white grapefruit rather than the juiciest ruby red, without a doubt. Grapefruit most commonly serves as an opening or top note in perfumes, but due to its synthetic nature, it can also serve as both a middle note and sometimes a base note. Here, it can be smelled throughout evolution.
Pamplemousse opens with a burst of the citrus accord, all bitter and tart. Fresh, with zesty notes and a bittersweet aroma reminiscent of wet pebbles, yet well-balanced and in the right amount. Of course, it listed Citrus Paradisi, the grapefruit, and Citrus Limon, the lemon, for a reason. They are identifiable, each with its particularity. The bright yellow big grapefruit, with a strong sulfur vein, shows all its bitterness. Don't be afraid; it's not as disgusting as the rotten egg smell of sulfur water. Instead, I collect the scent of the rind, the white sponge in between, the pulp and the juice. It almost seems to drink a juice obtained by squeezing the whole fruit. Instead, the lemon arrives shortly after, with its sweet and sour contrasts, sour, tart, fresh, almost frozen, like a sorbet. This overture is pleasant, citrus, sharp, slightly sour, acidic, and tangy but never akin to an eau the cologne.
And now comes the exciting part. Or rather, the mysterious part. The olfactory pyramid declares a heart full of flowers, which my nose struggles to recognize. I would expect an aqueous freesia accord, which isn't there. But also, that rosy, dewy peony touch isn't there. A slightly shy hint of rose is present, ain't too opulent like in the Middle East attar. But the sulphurous and bitter side of the grapefruit lasts well beyond the first few minutes. Pamplemousse, aka grapefruit, is appropriate for this fragrance as the keynote dominates all the others.
As the fragrance approaches drying, the aroma becomes somewhat mineral and dry, like a pebble. Vetiver root contributes to this dusty, earthy undertone. The musk is rough, animalistic, not at all soapy or clean or with hints of laundry. Miserably, I don't get spicy or sweet vanilla. If I had to summarize the dominant aspects, I would say bitter grapefruit, mineral vetiver, and animalic musk. The other notes act as a support to round off the otherwise too-sharp edges.
Pamplemousse is not the first fragrance based on the grapefruit-vetiver combo in my collection. Still, it smells different from Zara Emotions N°01 - Vetiver Pamplemousse Eau de Parfum, although they can sit in the same ballpark. Courtesy of its freshness, it is a warm weather fragrance, primarily suitable during spring days, summer, and early fall. A more daily, leisure, and business cologne, too weak for late evening or night out. As a fresh scent, the performances are a tad on the soft side; both projection and longevity are moderate. However, the ridiculous price allows one to spray repeatedly during the day.
I'm basing my opinions on a bottle I have owned since May 2023.
-Elysium
Pamplemousse opens with a burst of the citrus accord, all bitter and tart. Fresh, with zesty notes and a bittersweet aroma reminiscent of wet pebbles, yet well-balanced and in the right amount. Of course, it listed Citrus Paradisi, the grapefruit, and Citrus Limon, the lemon, for a reason. They are identifiable, each with its particularity. The bright yellow big grapefruit, with a strong sulfur vein, shows all its bitterness. Don't be afraid; it's not as disgusting as the rotten egg smell of sulfur water. Instead, I collect the scent of the rind, the white sponge in between, the pulp and the juice. It almost seems to drink a juice obtained by squeezing the whole fruit. Instead, the lemon arrives shortly after, with its sweet and sour contrasts, sour, tart, fresh, almost frozen, like a sorbet. This overture is pleasant, citrus, sharp, slightly sour, acidic, and tangy but never akin to an eau the cologne.
And now comes the exciting part. Or rather, the mysterious part. The olfactory pyramid declares a heart full of flowers, which my nose struggles to recognize. I would expect an aqueous freesia accord, which isn't there. But also, that rosy, dewy peony touch isn't there. A slightly shy hint of rose is present, ain't too opulent like in the Middle East attar. But the sulphurous and bitter side of the grapefruit lasts well beyond the first few minutes. Pamplemousse, aka grapefruit, is appropriate for this fragrance as the keynote dominates all the others.
As the fragrance approaches drying, the aroma becomes somewhat mineral and dry, like a pebble. Vetiver root contributes to this dusty, earthy undertone. The musk is rough, animalistic, not at all soapy or clean or with hints of laundry. Miserably, I don't get spicy or sweet vanilla. If I had to summarize the dominant aspects, I would say bitter grapefruit, mineral vetiver, and animalic musk. The other notes act as a support to round off the otherwise too-sharp edges.
Pamplemousse is not the first fragrance based on the grapefruit-vetiver combo in my collection. Still, it smells different from Zara Emotions N°01 - Vetiver Pamplemousse Eau de Parfum, although they can sit in the same ballpark. Courtesy of its freshness, it is a warm weather fragrance, primarily suitable during spring days, summer, and early fall. A more daily, leisure, and business cologne, too weak for late evening or night out. As a fresh scent, the performances are a tad on the soft side; both projection and longevity are moderate. However, the ridiculous price allows one to spray repeatedly during the day.
I'm basing my opinions on a bottle I have owned since May 2023.
-Elysium
Elysium
