Alexxx

Anyone who enjoys engaging with concepts of art and aesthetics may have come across the term concordia discors. It essentially refers to the perfect harmony of opposites, of diversity. As a great fan of English poetry, the poem "The Thames" by the poet Sir Jonathan Denham comes to mind as an example. In the final lines, the essence of the Thames is described as a perfect midpoint between the forces of opposites:

Though deep yet clear, though gentle yet not dull;
Strong without rage, without o’erflowing full.

In my opinion, Geza Schön has also created such a perfected form with Nawab of Oudh Intensivo. Although oud and rose are components of its genesis, they are represented in this fragrance in such a completely unique and entirely different way that any preconceived notions like "another rose oud" completely miss the reality. Rather, the discerning fragrance lover can expect an exciting progression that opens up contrasts to ultimately bring them uncompromisingly to completion. Nothing is cloying. Neither the floral notes nor the oud take center stage.

Green is the opening, characterized by a bitter, sour freshness: very striking, very angular, very masculine, this is how the start unfolds. More and more touched by sweet-floral tones, the fragrance soon shifts its course towards unisex. Then comes the next turn: it becomes noticeably spicier, the floral notes take a distinguished step back, becoming a tad quieter, yet remain present.

In its substance-rich exclusive base, with what I consider to be only a subtle sweetness, the fragrance lingers for many hours. And it leaves the wearer with an aura of elegance, of inner strength. Despite its smoothness, evoked by labdanum and ambergris, it feels a bit distant and not as caressing as one might expect. The oud finally completes the whole with its fine and unobtrusive accent, resulting in an olfactorily extremely rounded, to say the least, perfected composition.

I don't necessarily see it as a true unisex fragrance. For me, it leans at least 70% masculine. But on a woman who can handle a green-bitter, quite striking opening and is not afraid of concentrated strength, it may serve her well. I want to emphasize once again: the rose plays only a supporting role in this performance, as do all the fragrance notes. As much as I love powerful rose fragrances, I truly appreciate the moderation here.

The concentrated richness of substance ensures formidable longevity. People looking for a fragrance that lasts a day will find it here: Yes, I count myself among that species who appreciate such fragrances - I don’t change my clothes three times during a long workday (not to mention that in my industry - the creative sector - workdays can often be longer and more intense). The projection is really pleasantly measured. With a noticeable but completely unexcited presence. At no time does it shout or raise its voice. But it also doesn’t shy away, hiding under the shirt.

Conclusion: Contrasts. Attractive yet simultaneously distant, a light coolness. Angular, but finely polished. Spicy, bitter - and yet soft and smooth. All of this in harmony. Moreover, a fragrance from which its wearer can draw for an entire day. At a price of 240 euros for 50 ml, one can expect concentrated fragrance materials. And yet, more has been achieved here than merely meeting expectations: I know a few of the Ormonds, some I found somewhat good, but until now, none have truly inspired me. Even Ormonde Man, which so far impressed me the most, couldn’t fully captivate me. But Nawab of Oudh Intensivo plays in a league of its own for me. A signature-worthy fragrance. And yet, with all the praise - due to its slightly bitter distance, I wouldn’t recommend it for a romantic candlelight dinner or a movie night on the couch... such contrasts are better left unexamined, as the perfect harmony might just be at risk.

It was Gertrude Stein, the American writer, who once said these winged words. With her abstract poetry, Stein played with language, bringing objects and things more into consciousness. And with the tautological title of this commentary, she did something entirely different from the countless bards, poets, and musicians before her: She did not romanticize the rose; she returned its identity as a thing of this world and described a rose again as what it is.

As someone who is a big fan of roses and has many specimens at home, I can say: She is right. Because roses mainly do one thing - quite a lot of work. You fight with leaf diseases, you fight with aphids, you water (not a little!), you fertilize, you prune, you prick yourself. You are rewarded: with blooming elegance. And with scents, oh yes, with scents: Some smell fruity, with notes of berries or lemons, some smell spicy, like cloves, or spicy-sweet like myrrh, others have the scent of old French roses, which is generally what we describe as rose scent - that deep, intense, slightly fruity floral quality. And as a fan of roses as well as rose scents, I recently came across "Rose Orage" from the house of Chabaud. Orage means "storm" in French. The scent is meant to describe a rose blooming in the sunlight before a rain shower pours over it.

As someone who sees my specimens exposed to the elements of the world daily, I found this theme extremely intriguing. And I was all the more surprised that the scent lives up to its promise (at least I seem to have fallen for this suggestion). It is rather subtle in nature, but I can follow it very well. And I also find the scent progression with its changing presence astonishing. While wearing it for many hours, I constantly feel like something is happening with the scent, as if it were alive, like the rose itself, out there in the storm, shaken by the wind, hit by the rain, and once again illuminated by the sun.

The scent progression starts herb-fresh and fruity before the rose takes the lead. But not just with its bloom; there are the leaves that I think I can smell, there is the wood that I believe I perceive. The rose bloom is present, but not overly heavy and baroque. On the contrary, it is a subtle fine play with a pleasant freshness. Masterfully, how it has been conjured in there. And indeed, the whole thing smells as if raindrops had settled on the petals of a rose and as if the climate had become a bit fresher.

And the scent works. I thought at the beginning of my test: nice, but a bit too subtle. But no, it is sometimes a bit less noticeable, but then again quite pronounced. Through shirt and mask outside in the fresh air, I suddenly thought: Convinced, I will have to adjust your sillage upwards. You also wouldn't want to believe the longevity at first, but it easily exceeds 9 hours. This is also a perfect balance that makes the scent not at any time intrusive, but at all times extremely stylish. I really like that, I must say; I find it immensely artistic.

When is it best to wear it? Rose Orage is a fruity-fresh, floral, but by no means overloaded gem of a scent. With its subtle scent characteristic, it is definitely versatile. Its floral freshness is made for spring and summer - autumn and winter are certainly not the time for roses. While it can surely be worn everywhere else, it definitely does not fit into the cold season.

Who wears it best? I am still not quite sure whether I would prefer to enjoy such a beauty on myself or on a female person. Although unisex, it does lean a bit towards the feminine. Since the rose is not too heavy, and the scent does not drift too strongly into the overly sweet, but remains fresh, I generally find it wearable for men. And yet - the olfactory spectacle is very delicately staged. The scent is beauty, the scent tells a story, but it is definitely not a statement. So as a man, it really requires some thought as to when the right moment is to wear it and whether it might be too delicate for the type of its wearer.

Conclusion: I am thrilled. What a beautiful rose scent. What a beautiful, delicate, honest, and largely unembellished rose. In my opinion, Chabaud has created a fresh-fruity and always lively rose scent with Rose Orage. Whether it will make it into my collection, I cannot yet say. Whether it can play a role in my everyday life, I am still undecided. Fans of rose scents should definitely give it a try. Perhaps one of you shares my enthusiasm …

Ozone is a natural component of the air. It is also formed as a reaction to nitrogen dioxide. Especially during strong sunlight - and the accompanying high temperatures - the concentration of ozone increases. Particularly for residents of urban areas, such as the Rhine-Main region, increased ozone formation can lead to health issues like headaches or migraines.

This is how one might describe the essence of ozone. And this is how the ozone that Aaron Terence Hughes fills into his bottles works. As a trained chemist, he should be familiar with the supposed side effects of the substance also known as O3. Unfortunately, there is no warning label regarding this on his bottle.

But more on that in a moment. Because the idea for this summery mixed cocktail is not bad at all; on the contrary: There is the sweetness of coconut, the freshness of lime, and a few woody notes. All of this evokes - especially for a travel-loving soul like mine - feelings of an exotic vacation.

One only needs to close their eyes for a moment, and they can dream themselves to a tropical beach. Ozone hints at Virgin Island Water, but its tropical breeze is significantly more powerful than the quoted scent from Creed. The projection has quite a bit of power, and the longevity is decent.

However, on the way to the perfect summer fragrance, I unfortunately find Ambroxan getting in the way all too quickly. I count myself among those who sometimes react sensitively to these scent accords. At the same time, I am enveloped by the ozone cloud. And here it happens now:

Ozone pulls me back from my mental journey to the South Seas. My island paradise turns into a traffic island, right in the middle of city traffic, at 40 degrees. And the inevitable happens with excessively high ozone levels: I get a headache.

And so the longing for the South Seas ends at the sink. With plenty of soap and a towel. Conclusion: not for me.

But for whom could it be suitable? For a scent from ATH, it is rather less loud and overall more balanced in its composition, making it more mass-appealing. It is not created according to ATH's usual in-your-face principle - those who were bothered by that until now can find happiness here. Likewise, those who like Ambroxan and are looking for a summer fragrance that offers more than just citrus or aquatic notes can find joy here. Fans of Virgin Island Water can also be pleased, as Ozone resembles it but comes across as a bit more powerful.

In summary: We are dealing with a unisex fragrance that comes at a price that is extremely attractive by ATH standards. However, its mentioned mass appeal does not mean that it won't divide you, dear perfume lovers. The combination of Ambroxan and ozone will likely decide everything. It’s said: inhale Ozone deeply and become blissful. Or fall over.

PS: There is hardly any research data on long-term effects and late damage caused by ozone; therefore, a health risk cannot be ruled out with certainty, even if no acute complaints are present.

Some of the names that Aaron Terence Hughes gives his fragrances are not exactly refined: Dirty Slut, Boss Bitch, Boss Bastard, etc. If you take a look at him on his YouTube channel, his heavily tattooed figure and slight hubris, you might not immediately think of the traditional elegance of the great French, Italian, and English perfume houses. But as the saying goes: don’t judge a book by its cover.

To me, he comes across as honest and authentic, sometimes funny, without trying too hard. At the end of the day, it is of course far less about the perfumer than it is about the fragrance itself. And of course, the new names in the industry bring new spirit, new methods, and new energy to the game. You can feel however you want about the good man, his marketing, and his pricing. What matters is what’s in the bottle.

So, Onyx. I first think of the black gemstone. Something special, dark. This dark association is certainly intentional and well chosen, as the fragrance has a floral-woody heaviness. Its base, however, is a very familiar one and ultimately just another variation of the well-known ingredients of rose, oud, and spiciness. A combination that has proven to be extremely effective in recent years to make roses - and thus their sweet floral quality - wearable across genders.

Onyx evokes associations with some well-known fragrances. In the top note, it reminded me of MFK's Oud Silk Mood - but most of the time, Onyx conjures up another fragrance - Tom Ford's Noir de Noir. As I mentioned in my comment on Montale's Sensual Instinct, Noir de Noir, as beautiful as I find it, is unfortunately often a bit too feminine for me.

Onyx is definitely more unisex. It doesn’t have that powdery-sweet heaviness. It is a noticeable touch more animalistic - due to its unmistakable musk content. Overall, it comes across as a bit woodier, which also counteracts a primarily feminine scent impression. Otherwise, the cited DNA of the Tom Ford fragrance around the rose, the prominent patchouli, vanilla, and oud is unmistakable. But that doesn’t speak against Onyx; on the contrary, Onyx is truly beautiful. Sensual, dark. But warm. Floral. Woody.

Aaron Terence Hughes describes his fragrance as a “perfect date or sex fragrance” and boasts that it lasts 12 hours with a tremendous projection. Well, there’s that hubris again, but also the aforementioned honesty: In fact, Onyx competes with the powerful sillage and longevity of the cited Noir de Noir as well. And like Noir de Noir, Onyx is primarily an ideal fragrance for the evening (and for whatever else it may bring), thanks to its deep-sensual, warming presence.

Conclusion: If you like oud-rose combinations and haven’t had enough yet, you’re in the right place. Perhaps even more so than ever before. And if you like Noir de Noir, you should definitely give Onyx a chance. Especially for men, it can certainly be described as a very successful unisex fragrance, as the woody and floral notes balance each other out extremely pleasantly. Even though I am a fan of Tom Ford and don’t find much to appreciate in the somewhat brash marketing of Aaron Terence Hughes for niche standards, it must be clearly stated that with Onyx, he has created a truly beautiful, immensely sensual, powerful, and expressive fragrance, even if it’s not necessarily the most innovative.

I once went to the mountains. I mean, really. In Bavaria. All on foot. For someone who had only ever faced the vineyards of their hometown, it was a real challenge. During several forced emergency stops, I wished I had never embarked on this disastrous expedition for me. Deep breath, panting, deep breath, panting - it was almost as if my lungs wanted to leave my body. Then suddenly, the rows of trees parted and the unimaginable was reached: the summit. Since I had exhausted all my liquid supplies on the way up (including those of my body cells), I used the last energy I had left to order a blackcurrant spritzer at the mountain hut.

What can I say? That was definitely the most blessed refreshment of my life. Man, was it wonderful. I downed that 0.5-liter glass in no time and ordered another one. Out of all the pain, a smile was suddenly born on my face.

And on that day, at that place, in that state, Aqaysos brought me back. The key: a wonderfully fresh-smelling blackcurrant. Even though some write "Cassis," which, depending on the region, means the same as blackcurrant, I would avoid the word Cassis. Simply because I always associate Cassis with that sticky-sweet syrup aroma, like the one produced by the manufacturer Monin, among others.

Aqaysos, however, is sweet and tart at the same time. This makes it incredibly wearable and predestined for summer. This interplay of sweet and tart feels more masculine to me. Although it can pass as unisex, I really don't know if I would find it suitable on a woman. But of course, it depends on the woman. And on the biochemistry of her skin.

Speaking of which - on my skin, the scent performs at an average level. But for summer, it certainly has a very pleasant sillage that should never create a stuffy atmosphere. But I would have liked a bit more. The longevity will likely lead to multiple applications if it is to be a lasting companion for a long day.

Once again, a quick note on the sweetness. It conjures up childhood memories. When I, as a little boy, sat in a meadow stuffing blackcurrants into my mouth. Until, yes until that one damn wasp actually stung me. The howling was great. And the blackcurrant remained a stigmatized food until my successful mountain ascent.

But today I know: I would go anywhere in summer with Aqaysos. Even to the mountains. And even if a wasp stung me, it would be worth the risk.