Ambross
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Ambross
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In the concept room
In the concept space beyond "Terre d'Hermès Eau Givrée | Hermès" and "Dior Homme Sport (2021) | Dior", I imagine this study in the niche anteroom of good designers. Here, costs are not yet seriously spared, unfinished visions are simply presented in the original material in a visionary way. The lemony lemon is more than just the somewhat limited series decor you get from the TdH EA. Here you get the best, lively, fresh fruit from the market. It lies richly, floatingly bedded on the slightly juniper fresh Olibanum Vetiver smoke mist. Somewhat out of season cold campfire by the water images come to mind, so not far from a more adult interpretation of Imagination. Go to the LV website and take a look at the presentation to get a rough impression. The luxury remains, but the (modern French) pleasantness gives way to a more grown-up, relaxed intangibility. It should be a stunner and, in my mind, find its zenith for gentlemen at serious night out events like a visit to an amphitheater on a windy late summer sunset. Definitely dress code at least shirt to bring it all out.
Back to the comparison with the, perhaps distant, pop competitors, I must note that even if no such romance can be evoked, for me both of the aforementioned have not only lost qualities through a setup for mass release. Both seem much more developed, much more versatile. I generally like the mineral side of TdH EA better, which to a certain extent has a similar function to the incense etc fog. TdH is probably generally familiar to the "Search | Amouage" target group, but ironically the most similar in terms of fruit - the EA - is now clearly the youngest, for me a state of the art, contemporary, bleeding edge citrus fragrance. In this nature, the overlap is drastically reduced in my opinion. If the Search is the SL, the EA is the ... EQ SLK or something, there's nothing in the Mercedes range at the moment.
With the DHS, we're moving away from relaxed professional ideationally distanced smooth cool chill flow experiences, away from the lemon, towards the lime, towards the advertised punch in the fr* so you can think about how a pretty similar ingredient list can be built under the sign of acute attention. Brett hard and dynamic, perhaps in comparison the spiritual M4 Competition, may bring you the actual fun you were originally looking for in the category when you first sought out the value "fast" citrus experience.
In my opinion, this fragrance is ultimately somewhat incomplete or unrounded. The two components strapped together are simply not enough for me. For me, it remains more of a concept, which as a preliminary stage of countless others has ultimately only been articulated elsewhere. The incense also makes the fragrance too old for me. Personally, I belong neither to the SL nor the TdH target group. The everyday suitability of citrus-dominant natural fragrances is generally high, yet I don't see it in any realistic selection for the office, crafts, dating or ordinary leisure activities.
Fragrance pers. Taste 6.5/10
Fragrance quality 8.6/10
HS Pretty good
Flacon - sample ca 1-2ML from Amouage 8/10,
We should all use such mini atomizers in the souk if they are not too expensive, because the ones Amouage uses are really awesome. Despite their tiny size, they have minimal pressure and a good spray volume. In comparison, almost everything we send ourselves here privately is really a 3/10.
Back to the comparison with the, perhaps distant, pop competitors, I must note that even if no such romance can be evoked, for me both of the aforementioned have not only lost qualities through a setup for mass release. Both seem much more developed, much more versatile. I generally like the mineral side of TdH EA better, which to a certain extent has a similar function to the incense etc fog. TdH is probably generally familiar to the "Search | Amouage" target group, but ironically the most similar in terms of fruit - the EA - is now clearly the youngest, for me a state of the art, contemporary, bleeding edge citrus fragrance. In this nature, the overlap is drastically reduced in my opinion. If the Search is the SL, the EA is the ... EQ SLK or something, there's nothing in the Mercedes range at the moment.
With the DHS, we're moving away from relaxed professional ideationally distanced smooth cool chill flow experiences, away from the lemon, towards the lime, towards the advertised punch in the fr* so you can think about how a pretty similar ingredient list can be built under the sign of acute attention. Brett hard and dynamic, perhaps in comparison the spiritual M4 Competition, may bring you the actual fun you were originally looking for in the category when you first sought out the value "fast" citrus experience.
In my opinion, this fragrance is ultimately somewhat incomplete or unrounded. The two components strapped together are simply not enough for me. For me, it remains more of a concept, which as a preliminary stage of countless others has ultimately only been articulated elsewhere. The incense also makes the fragrance too old for me. Personally, I belong neither to the SL nor the TdH target group. The everyday suitability of citrus-dominant natural fragrances is generally high, yet I don't see it in any realistic selection for the office, crafts, dating or ordinary leisure activities.
Fragrance pers. Taste 6.5/10
Fragrance quality 8.6/10
HS Pretty good
Flacon - sample ca 1-2ML from Amouage 8/10,
We should all use such mini atomizers in the souk if they are not too expensive, because the ones Amouage uses are really awesome. Despite their tiny size, they have minimal pressure and a good spray volume. In comparison, almost everything we send ourselves here privately is really a 3/10.
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Smooth dupes and fragrance identity
I haven't had the opportunity to test the original yet, but I do have a large bottle of "Afternoon Swim | Louis Vuitton". I have to say that the dupe has a very distinctive brand essence. I suspect that this is why it is so closely related to "Imagination | Louis Vuitton" if secondary criteria are so clearly identifiable.
How do these look now?
To me, it smells figuratively like the UI design language of Apple, specifically like the characteristic round corners.
The bottles take up a very similar design, which is expressed at fragrance level in an ergonomic, non-scratchy round, airy DNA.
In my nose, this closed-off quality promotes a certain epi-propositionality.
and not
*Lemon*
It smells more like a managed user experience than an actual autonomous scent. Maybe it's just my knowledge that this is what LV is pushing in its stores. While Dior likes to make quasi-vulgar violations of designer expectations in clothes, which by the way is actually not uncommon in LV clothes either, here you smell more of the expected value.
A fragrance free of microaggressions, a fragrance that seeks to reassure you with every breath of air with its olfactory monogram repeated dozens of times over the average creative piece that the symbolic integrity is maintained above the absurd price and the obviousness of the price.
Ironic for a dupe. But also not completely unexpected, as there are various imitations, especially in the world of clothing. Anyone who sees a brown bag with an "LV" checkerboard pattern for 1/10 of the price may wonder afterwards whether the perception of the actual value proposition, the actual alleged selling point, was not just a figment of the socio-economic and cultural imagination.
I cannot evaluate this conclusively.
On the one hand, imitations are always somewhat lifeless. Like a completely blurred, identifiable but lifeless copy. Does the finer stitching turn the bag into something completely different? Does it need the crease on the forehead? Does it have to be CO2 extracted West Indian special ginger? Perhaps yes.
On the other hand, art doesn't have to come from can. Pop art such as Andy Warhol, but also various other abstract pieces, shine not only by reflecting the inherent work value, but also by effectively conveying a higher abstract logic.
One person sees color chaos, the next sees creativity. One sees an open custom mobile operating system, one sees bugs and potential work for customization. One sees a relatively simple scent that is dominated by its brand DNA and others see a well-known port that radiates security with symbols of conformity.
How do these look now?
To me, it smells figuratively like the UI design language of Apple, specifically like the characteristic round corners.
The bottles take up a very similar design, which is expressed at fragrance level in an ergonomic, non-scratchy round, airy DNA.
In my nose, this closed-off quality promotes a certain epi-propositionality.
and not
*Lemon*
It smells more like a managed user experience than an actual autonomous scent. Maybe it's just my knowledge that this is what LV is pushing in its stores. While Dior likes to make quasi-vulgar violations of designer expectations in clothes, which by the way is actually not uncommon in LV clothes either, here you smell more of the expected value.
A fragrance free of microaggressions, a fragrance that seeks to reassure you with every breath of air with its olfactory monogram repeated dozens of times over the average creative piece that the symbolic integrity is maintained above the absurd price and the obviousness of the price.
Ironic for a dupe. But also not completely unexpected, as there are various imitations, especially in the world of clothing. Anyone who sees a brown bag with an "LV" checkerboard pattern for 1/10 of the price may wonder afterwards whether the perception of the actual value proposition, the actual alleged selling point, was not just a figment of the socio-economic and cultural imagination.
I cannot evaluate this conclusively.
On the one hand, imitations are always somewhat lifeless. Like a completely blurred, identifiable but lifeless copy. Does the finer stitching turn the bag into something completely different? Does it need the crease on the forehead? Does it have to be CO2 extracted West Indian special ginger? Perhaps yes.
On the other hand, art doesn't have to come from can. Pop art such as Andy Warhol, but also various other abstract pieces, shine not only by reflecting the inherent work value, but also by effectively conveying a higher abstract logic.
One person sees color chaos, the next sees creativity. One sees an open custom mobile operating system, one sees bugs and potential work for customization. One sees a relatively simple scent that is dominated by its brand DNA and others see a well-known port that radiates security with symbols of conformity.
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Sillage engineering
Day 2 with "Tender Amber | Zara"
Foreword/Context:
Having previously been able to identify a quite clear "Baccarat Rouge 540 (Extrait de Parfum) | Maison Francis Kurkdjian" (dna, not specifically the concentration) sillage in my environment and having learned from the wearer that it was the Zara dupe, I have experienced here through this very experience a sensitization to the different perception after distance in now especially Zara fragrances.
Afterwards, I had the opportunity to compare the original with the "For Him Red Edition | Zara". We both came to the conclusion that there is quite a huge difference up close, which is massively reduced in distant projection/sillage.
About the fragrance - a dupe?:
For me, the characteristic pungent, rough, metallic musk of "Erba Pura | XerJoff" is hardly noticeable at first, which doesn't surprise me, as complex musk compositions are neither easy to create nor cheap, let alone accessible due to captivated molecules. At least that's what I thought. But in fact, these Zara fragrances project a dupe much better than the close concentrated whiff would suggest.
About the fragrance - the profile:
Close: Rather cheap, feminine, matte pastel tropical fruit, deodorant shampoo, somewhat creamy, white floral, soapy.
Also: tart creamy mousse with slightly laid back but similar fruits.
Like a masculine, salty, tart breeze where you drink buttermilk at the beach house and eat soft but not elastic fruit gums with it.
It's still not a really precise dupe. But also because of the brute intensity of the original.
Fragrance theory - perception and distance:
As some people are probably aware, fragrance molecules do not always scale linearly in terms of their perceptibility. How we interpret them can be subject to certain tipping points, from which other aspects can be added, but sometimes the core character can also change. Analogous to olfactory receptor activation - sweetener, for example, tends to become bitter in its pure form, sulphydril stops smelling at some point and drugs have additional side effects at secondary targets beyond recommended doses.
While most fragrances are probably primarily designed to convince in direct close-up perception, a translated trend dip, which is not insignificantly geared towards projection and external perception, can try to specialize in the reduced, distance profile.
The whole thing could work analogously to the general Zara concept, after all, the Zara coat looks far less convincing up close than any premium templates.
Maybe I'm wrong or overestimating the intentions here. However, this repeated contrast really caught my eye.
Conclusion - Recommendation:
"Tender Amber | Zara" is for people who don't want to use souk samples instead of flacons. A somewhat unnecessary special "dupe" to "Erba Pura | XerJoff", which is less brute in terms of H/S and is not really convincing up close.
I don't recommend spraying it on the upper chest/neck area, but rather on more indirect areas such as the stomach or perhaps the arms. This way, the sillage it creates brings it closer to the original.
Then I see it for younger men for semi-formal daytime activities in spring at best, such as a christening or before or after.
Foreword/Context:
Having previously been able to identify a quite clear "Baccarat Rouge 540 (Extrait de Parfum) | Maison Francis Kurkdjian" (dna, not specifically the concentration) sillage in my environment and having learned from the wearer that it was the Zara dupe, I have experienced here through this very experience a sensitization to the different perception after distance in now especially Zara fragrances.
Afterwards, I had the opportunity to compare the original with the "For Him Red Edition | Zara". We both came to the conclusion that there is quite a huge difference up close, which is massively reduced in distant projection/sillage.
About the fragrance - a dupe?:
For me, the characteristic pungent, rough, metallic musk of "Erba Pura | XerJoff" is hardly noticeable at first, which doesn't surprise me, as complex musk compositions are neither easy to create nor cheap, let alone accessible due to captivated molecules. At least that's what I thought. But in fact, these Zara fragrances project a dupe much better than the close concentrated whiff would suggest.
About the fragrance - the profile:
Close: Rather cheap, feminine, matte pastel tropical fruit, deodorant shampoo, somewhat creamy, white floral, soapy.
Also: tart creamy mousse with slightly laid back but similar fruits.
Like a masculine, salty, tart breeze where you drink buttermilk at the beach house and eat soft but not elastic fruit gums with it.
It's still not a really precise dupe. But also because of the brute intensity of the original.
Fragrance theory - perception and distance:
As some people are probably aware, fragrance molecules do not always scale linearly in terms of their perceptibility. How we interpret them can be subject to certain tipping points, from which other aspects can be added, but sometimes the core character can also change. Analogous to olfactory receptor activation - sweetener, for example, tends to become bitter in its pure form, sulphydril stops smelling at some point and drugs have additional side effects at secondary targets beyond recommended doses.
While most fragrances are probably primarily designed to convince in direct close-up perception, a translated trend dip, which is not insignificantly geared towards projection and external perception, can try to specialize in the reduced, distance profile.
The whole thing could work analogously to the general Zara concept, after all, the Zara coat looks far less convincing up close than any premium templates.
Maybe I'm wrong or overestimating the intentions here. However, this repeated contrast really caught my eye.
Conclusion - Recommendation:
"Tender Amber | Zara" is for people who don't want to use souk samples instead of flacons. A somewhat unnecessary special "dupe" to "Erba Pura | XerJoff", which is less brute in terms of H/S and is not really convincing up close.
I don't recommend spraying it on the upper chest/neck area, but rather on more indirect areas such as the stomach or perhaps the arms. This way, the sillage it creates brings it closer to the original.
Then I see it for younger men for semi-formal daytime activities in spring at best, such as a christening or before or after.
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️
Listen Parfumo, the world of work, it's chaos, life in clouds of fragrance is a thousand times better than anything they have out there.
The tonka blooms ever sweeter,
When it delights you from afar.
That's why you want to go to the people,
But you quickly regretted it.
Look closely at your world,
Yes, here where you smell and live.
Then you will see Le Beau full of wonder,
Tell yourself what you still aspire to.
Le Beau Gaultier! Le Beau Gaultier!
Where would coconut be crisper, creamier and whiter,
Or more synthetic?
They work like crazy up there,
That's why they seem so depressed.
Where do you hate striving, where do you just live?
With Jean Paul Gaultier!
The tonka blooms ever sweeter,
When it delights you from afar.
That's why you want to go to the people,
But you quickly regretted it.
Look closely at your world,
Yes, here where you smell and live.
Then you will see Le Beau full of wonder,
Tell yourself what you still aspire to.
Le Beau Gaultier! Le Beau Gaultier!
Where would coconut be crisper, creamier and whiter,
Or more synthetic?
They work like crazy up there,
That's why they seem so depressed.
Where do you hate striving, where do you just live?
With Jean Paul Gaultier!
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On the trail of bad perfume
First of all, this is my first day with "Armani Code Absolu pour Homme | Giorgio Armani" and this article is not primarily about describing this perfume.
I am more interested in discussing and classifying the "generic cheap sugar mainstream accord". Because I perceive this to be quite central here.
You could say it has a lot of overlap with Y Le parfum, some Stronger with yous, "Ralph's Club Elixir | Ralph Lauren" and probably more than a dozen other fragrances.
All of them smell natural and substantial in this accord like a Poco interior, with a big fullhd China TV on which people with plastic bodies and serious "live love laugh" tattoos confidently present themselves to the public in sex-suggestive reality shows like Loveisland on RTL2.
My sense of smell reflexively alienates itself and can only comprehend the good reviews, the overlooking of the pastiche composition as coming from a cynical romantic streak.
To the core of my understanding: So it has to be a bit freshly aromatic, so lavender, ne linalool, then a combination of tonka, uh no coumarin, that's enough, after all almost the same, and ethyl maltol, which is already in 90% of the other bestsellers anyway, so please don't skimp on that. Just add a little sour apple and vanillin and you're done. 0815 pseudo refreshed grape sugar garbage.
Here is my original statement again:
Theoretically positioned identity may have a lot of potential. However, the aggressive 0815 dextrose synthetic prevents my appreciation.
I am more interested in discussing and classifying the "generic cheap sugar mainstream accord". Because I perceive this to be quite central here.
You could say it has a lot of overlap with Y Le parfum, some Stronger with yous, "Ralph's Club Elixir | Ralph Lauren" and probably more than a dozen other fragrances.
All of them smell natural and substantial in this accord like a Poco interior, with a big fullhd China TV on which people with plastic bodies and serious "live love laugh" tattoos confidently present themselves to the public in sex-suggestive reality shows like Loveisland on RTL2.
My sense of smell reflexively alienates itself and can only comprehend the good reviews, the overlooking of the pastiche composition as coming from a cynical romantic streak.
To the core of my understanding: So it has to be a bit freshly aromatic, so lavender, ne linalool, then a combination of tonka, uh no coumarin, that's enough, after all almost the same, and ethyl maltol, which is already in 90% of the other bestsellers anyway, so please don't skimp on that. Just add a little sour apple and vanillin and you're done. 0815 pseudo refreshed grape sugar garbage.
Here is my original statement again:
Theoretically positioned identity may have a lot of potential. However, the aggressive 0815 dextrose synthetic prevents my appreciation.
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