Saffron
Moroccan bitter almond
Ambroxan
Virginia cedar
Egyptian jasminum grandiflorum
12/27/2024
Elysium
887 Reviews
Elysium
Helpful Review
4
Lives Around You, Not On You
Even though I know I have a knack for recognizing anything that smells good or has a slight aroma, I am still puzzled by the strange reaction between a perfume and my skin. And that is why I was so curious and excited to try this version, already a lover of the original. Baccarat Rouge 540 Eau de Parfum certainly inspires it and, if you know the original, the structure of the aroma will be familiar. They are different, but I cannot articulate the subtleties. Surely, not everyone will notice the differences between the two. Extrait is thicker with a bittersweet burnt note, hints of wood and flowers, Far Eastern spices and cotton candy.
Extrait unfolds on my skin like a tantalizing explosion of cotton candy and fresh paint that fills the air as soon as I spray it on my hand. The blend of wild saffron, bitter almonds and burnt sugar may be responsible for this bizarre accord. The saffron does not seem too raw or leathery. It is not as brash as the Middle Eastern attar, but it helps balance the other accords that would otherwise be too sweet, here slightly leathery and metallic. Instead, the almond takes me by surprise. It’s not the kind of milky almond we get from Hypnotic Poison Eau de Toilette and all its dupes, which give me headaches and I cannot stand for long, but something more boozy, ethereal and metallic. The first moments smell of paint and nail polish thinner, which has a vaguely sweet and pungent smell, making the Extrait sharper, more penetrating and exacerbated than the original EDP. It feels like walking in the park, passing by a shiny bench and catching the smell of fresh paint in the air mixed with the aroma of cotton candy rising from a street vendor not far away.
The Extrait version has a similar feeling. I do not want to scare anyone with this. It’s just my association with the initial penetrating notes that I detect. And this is where Extrait has improved on its predecessor. Behind this naïve blend, I detect the sweetness of jasmine, tender and smooth, which harmonizes the spices. The heart is more watery, salty, and sweet. It is very clean, with jasmine taking the reins and making the aroma closer to the original. The initial almond mostly fades on my skin, or rather it takes a step back but never disappears, giving way to the molecular blend of amberwood, dry Iso-E Super and creamy cashmeran. Now the notes are creamy, woody and burnt, with a metallic sensation.
In the dry-down, Extrait becomes silvery mineral, with a marine and salty accord from ambroxan, sometimes woody and sometimes musky. The blend of white musk and ambergris creates a mix so sexy that I defy anyone to resist, with an aura so magnetic and sensual. Wood and musk add a darker, more masculine edge to the base. What begins with a fierce, robust, bittersweet shield of almond and saffron ends with a thin, endless veil of musks and amber.
One thing to keep in mind: as with most fragrances that contain ambroxan and other lab molecules, people around you or passing by will notice it strongly. It leaves an unforgettable trail. Wearers, however, will quickly get used to it and say they don’t smell it on them, but will continue to catch the swirls throughout the day. On the nose it has this up-and-down effect. The longevity is impressive and stays on clothes forever. Compared to the EDP, I find the extract to have more masculine traits and might appeal more to a male audience that is reluctant to wear the original. Seasonally, I especially like it in the colder seasons, from early fall to late spring. It’s perfect for day wear, better for evening wear, thanks to its intensity and depth. I like the original, but perhaps I like the extract better. It is inoffensive enough to be worn during the day in moderation, but unique and powerful enough to satisfy any evening event.
This is my experience with a decanter that I have owned since December 2024.
-Elysium
Extrait unfolds on my skin like a tantalizing explosion of cotton candy and fresh paint that fills the air as soon as I spray it on my hand. The blend of wild saffron, bitter almonds and burnt sugar may be responsible for this bizarre accord. The saffron does not seem too raw or leathery. It is not as brash as the Middle Eastern attar, but it helps balance the other accords that would otherwise be too sweet, here slightly leathery and metallic. Instead, the almond takes me by surprise. It’s not the kind of milky almond we get from Hypnotic Poison Eau de Toilette and all its dupes, which give me headaches and I cannot stand for long, but something more boozy, ethereal and metallic. The first moments smell of paint and nail polish thinner, which has a vaguely sweet and pungent smell, making the Extrait sharper, more penetrating and exacerbated than the original EDP. It feels like walking in the park, passing by a shiny bench and catching the smell of fresh paint in the air mixed with the aroma of cotton candy rising from a street vendor not far away.
The Extrait version has a similar feeling. I do not want to scare anyone with this. It’s just my association with the initial penetrating notes that I detect. And this is where Extrait has improved on its predecessor. Behind this naïve blend, I detect the sweetness of jasmine, tender and smooth, which harmonizes the spices. The heart is more watery, salty, and sweet. It is very clean, with jasmine taking the reins and making the aroma closer to the original. The initial almond mostly fades on my skin, or rather it takes a step back but never disappears, giving way to the molecular blend of amberwood, dry Iso-E Super and creamy cashmeran. Now the notes are creamy, woody and burnt, with a metallic sensation.
In the dry-down, Extrait becomes silvery mineral, with a marine and salty accord from ambroxan, sometimes woody and sometimes musky. The blend of white musk and ambergris creates a mix so sexy that I defy anyone to resist, with an aura so magnetic and sensual. Wood and musk add a darker, more masculine edge to the base. What begins with a fierce, robust, bittersweet shield of almond and saffron ends with a thin, endless veil of musks and amber.
One thing to keep in mind: as with most fragrances that contain ambroxan and other lab molecules, people around you or passing by will notice it strongly. It leaves an unforgettable trail. Wearers, however, will quickly get used to it and say they don’t smell it on them, but will continue to catch the swirls throughout the day. On the nose it has this up-and-down effect. The longevity is impressive and stays on clothes forever. Compared to the EDP, I find the extract to have more masculine traits and might appeal more to a male audience that is reluctant to wear the original. Seasonally, I especially like it in the colder seasons, from early fall to late spring. It’s perfect for day wear, better for evening wear, thanks to its intensity and depth. I like the original, but perhaps I like the extract better. It is inoffensive enough to be worn during the day in moderation, but unique and powerful enough to satisfy any evening event.
This is my experience with a decanter that I have owned since December 2024.
-Elysium
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