12/17/2023
Ambross
7 Reviews
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Ambross
3
Sillage engineering
Day 2 with Tender Amber
Foreword/Context:
Having previously been able to identify a quite clear Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait de Parfum (dna, not specifically the concentration) sillage in my environment and having learned from the wearer that it was the Zara dupe, I have experienced here through this very experience a sensitization to the different perception after distance in now especially Zara fragrances.
Afterwards, I had the opportunity to compare the original with the For Him Red Edition. We both came to the conclusion that there is quite a huge difference up close, which is massively reduced in distant projection/sillage.
About the fragrance - a dupe?:
For me, the characteristic pungent, rough, metallic musk of Erba Pura is hardly noticeable at first, which doesn't surprise me, as complex musk compositions are neither easy to create nor cheap, let alone accessible due to captivated molecules. At least that's what I thought. But in fact, these Zara fragrances project a dupe much better than the close concentrated whiff would suggest.
About the fragrance - the profile:
Close: Rather cheap, feminine, matte pastel tropical fruit, deodorant shampoo, somewhat creamy, white floral, soapy.
Also: tart creamy mousse with slightly laid back but similar fruits.
Like a masculine, salty, tart breeze where you drink buttermilk at the beach house and eat soft but not elastic fruit gums with it.
It's still not a really precise dupe. But also because of the brute intensity of the original.
Fragrance theory - perception and distance:
As some people are probably aware, fragrance molecules do not always scale linearly in terms of their perceptibility. How we interpret them can be subject to certain tipping points, from which other aspects can be added, but sometimes the core character can also change. Analogous to olfactory receptor activation - sweetener, for example, tends to become bitter in its pure form, sulphydril stops smelling at some point and drugs have additional side effects at secondary targets beyond recommended doses.
While most fragrances are probably primarily designed to convince in direct close-up perception, a translated trend dip, which is not insignificantly geared towards projection and external perception, can try to specialize in the reduced, distance profile.
The whole thing could work analogously to the general Zara concept, after all, the Zara coat looks far less convincing up close than any premium templates.
Maybe I'm wrong or overestimating the intentions here. However, this repeated contrast really caught my eye.
Conclusion - Recommendation:
Tender Amber is for people who don't want to use souk samples instead of flacons. A somewhat unnecessary special "dupe" to Erba Pura, which is less brute in terms of H/S and is not really convincing up close.
I don't recommend spraying it on the upper chest/neck area, but rather on more indirect areas such as the stomach or perhaps the arms. This way, the sillage it creates brings it closer to the original.
Then I see it for younger men for semi-formal daytime activities in spring at best, such as a christening or before or after.
Foreword/Context:
Having previously been able to identify a quite clear Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait de Parfum (dna, not specifically the concentration) sillage in my environment and having learned from the wearer that it was the Zara dupe, I have experienced here through this very experience a sensitization to the different perception after distance in now especially Zara fragrances.
Afterwards, I had the opportunity to compare the original with the For Him Red Edition. We both came to the conclusion that there is quite a huge difference up close, which is massively reduced in distant projection/sillage.
About the fragrance - a dupe?:
For me, the characteristic pungent, rough, metallic musk of Erba Pura is hardly noticeable at first, which doesn't surprise me, as complex musk compositions are neither easy to create nor cheap, let alone accessible due to captivated molecules. At least that's what I thought. But in fact, these Zara fragrances project a dupe much better than the close concentrated whiff would suggest.
About the fragrance - the profile:
Close: Rather cheap, feminine, matte pastel tropical fruit, deodorant shampoo, somewhat creamy, white floral, soapy.
Also: tart creamy mousse with slightly laid back but similar fruits.
Like a masculine, salty, tart breeze where you drink buttermilk at the beach house and eat soft but not elastic fruit gums with it.
It's still not a really precise dupe. But also because of the brute intensity of the original.
Fragrance theory - perception and distance:
As some people are probably aware, fragrance molecules do not always scale linearly in terms of their perceptibility. How we interpret them can be subject to certain tipping points, from which other aspects can be added, but sometimes the core character can also change. Analogous to olfactory receptor activation - sweetener, for example, tends to become bitter in its pure form, sulphydril stops smelling at some point and drugs have additional side effects at secondary targets beyond recommended doses.
While most fragrances are probably primarily designed to convince in direct close-up perception, a translated trend dip, which is not insignificantly geared towards projection and external perception, can try to specialize in the reduced, distance profile.
The whole thing could work analogously to the general Zara concept, after all, the Zara coat looks far less convincing up close than any premium templates.
Maybe I'm wrong or overestimating the intentions here. However, this repeated contrast really caught my eye.
Conclusion - Recommendation:
Tender Amber is for people who don't want to use souk samples instead of flacons. A somewhat unnecessary special "dupe" to Erba Pura, which is less brute in terms of H/S and is not really convincing up close.
I don't recommend spraying it on the upper chest/neck area, but rather on more indirect areas such as the stomach or perhaps the arms. This way, the sillage it creates brings it closer to the original.
Then I see it for younger men for semi-formal daytime activities in spring at best, such as a christening or before or after.
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