Athos

… this is how I experience this fragrance. I can understand all the older statements represented here, yet I remain very fond of this scent. It was one of the first noble fragrances that entered my collection.

At that time, I was already familiar with Parfumo, but prejudices and perhaps a bit of shyness held me back from signing up. Through Parfumo, I theoretically got to know the world of (men's) fragrances, and I made the decision to not just want to smell turquoise blue. Although I had already had a few lucky hits before, I now wanted to search more purposefully. I ordered about 10 fragrance samples from Bruchsal in 2010; some scents found their way into my collection, while I found better alternatives for others.

I liked the fragrance precisely because of the masculine associations it evokes in me. This is how a man should smell, I thought, not like cotton candy. Perhaps I had a too strongly shaped image of masculinity, even today? The citrus-herb blend that hits me draws me in. There is really nothing sweet or floral about it. Then there’s the not overly expansive projection of the fragrance with truly great longevity (I can still perceive it after 24 hours). The scent ultimately becomes deeper and darker, and it feels very powerful as it develops, without me immediately thinking of Popeye. Even sweat does not destroy the pleasant aura; it refreshes it once again.

During the sale at A..., I must have acquired a version with a significant oakmoss punch. My dear wife and I had our issues with the air when I scented both of us during a joint testing. At the same time, this oakmoss must have contributed significantly to the overall impression and judgment.
Nevertheless: Parfumistas and Parfumo users with sensitive noses, approach with caution!

Test question: Repurchase candidate?
For now, it will be with me for a long time; 100 ml is not so quickly used up. I am glad to have it in my possession, yet: very likely not; there are still so many beautiful fragrances out there.

Should anyone be concerned about my worldview and suspect dark corners within it, I can reassure them:
in my collection, I see at least 2 fragrances that also do not neglect the feminine side in me.

that was my impression this morning when I, after my morning routine (aka washing!), fragranced myself in the bathroom 3 times with about 15 cm of spray. I then covered my almost sensually appealing upper body with an undershirt and left the bathroom to dress appropriately for Sunday. Perhaps a bad habit: I sniffed myself to enjoy the quality of the scent and the pleasant aroma. Well, my impression was as described in the headline. Quite irritated, I went back into the bathroom and caught a whiff of a strong, noble whisky with a decent kick. Now, I am well aware from the reviews below that XPEC Original can indeed evoke associations with a fine malt whisky. I perceived, so to speak, the production process of this life water as another part of the scent development.

The scent progression is simply incredibly aromatic and very dry, and it also exudes a very nice warmth over time, almost the effect of "Uisge Beathas" and the warm, smoky fire. A bunch of thyme also got lost in the fire, which gives XPEC its flair. It smells so complex that there are always new facets for me to discover.

I have known the scent for quite a while; a few years ago, it came as a sample from a well-known online perfumery: even back then, I was thrilled by this very expressive fragrance. Somehow, however, I never got around to buying it. Then it was unavailable for a while due to relabeling. Then the specific, but shyly unnamed perfumery had XPEC on sale at a very charming price and even offered double the sample amount with the purchase. I couldn't say no to that! I never expected this sale, as the online store hadn't listed XPEC for a long time. In any case, I have it now, and it doesn't smell reformulated at all, but just as I got to know it.

How did I even come across XPEC Original?
In another perfume forum online (no longer active, mainly had to do with shoes) there were two very impressive posts:
1. “Borelli:
XPEC Original is energy with lemon, but not sweet, and develops into a calm, warm scent. You can apply "masses" without getting a headache. It is the "perfect" everyday scent for reapplying. World class.”
2. “Corium: (=> presumably "our" Corium!)
XPEC Original - world class, I completely agree.”
Well, that's how I finally got the idea to order a sample out of curiosity about these posts.
And now I have it, do not regret it, and am happy with it!

Comte de la Fère

and indeed a very good one: equally excellent for women and men.

It surely depends on the dosage of this Eau de Parfum whether one perceives this scent as metrosexual. I would like to expand the definition of metrosexual to mean that men and women (ultimately regardless of sexual identity) perceive and engage with their complementary feminine or masculine traits when wearing this fragrance, and those who buy and wear the scent, in a way, also live it.

Just take a look at my expressed fragrance preferences and dislikes: I seem to be expanding my fragrant likes a bit. The olfactory "terra incognita" is still vast. However, I will probably not warm up to Serge Lutens - despite my prejudiced ignorance!

Who is "to blame" for my boundary crossing? Apicius and especially MartinGE deserve a mention here!

About two years ago: "Le Male"! "Gray everywhere" or "Scent of Angels": I read these labels as a not-yet-registered freeloader on Parfumo, there was little space in between.
In my ~ 25,000-inhabitant town near the Jadebusen, there is a small shop belonging to a small perfume chain: there I saw the blue torso! A spray on my wrist, very wet and generous: the sweetness of the scent jumped into my nose. My internal image of masculinity switched to "Anti-Terror-Fight" mode (anyone who saw my appearance would start smiling at the association "fight")! No, indisputable; no engagement, just defense.
After a few weeks, I had calmed down and thought to myself: engage with this aromatic fragrance direction once more.
Due to other intentions and a touch of olfactory curiosity, I entered the shop again: mainstream everywhere, but there were light points like Antaeus and - I couldn't believe my eyes! - Francois Charles. A niche in a mainstream shop, how about that. I immediately tried the tester. The spray mist, very fine, covered a large area. The beginning: very fresh, then similarities with the blue, muscular sailor emerged; but the penetrating sweetness was missing, was it the cinnamon? After friendly hints about the olfactory similarities to the very nice service staff: "Oh, right, now that you mention it!" I "pleaded" for a sample, took it home like a hen with her chick, and used the scent, eagerly sniffing like a dog, always contemplatively, as we North West Germans say.
When I decided to buy a 50 ml bottle, it was all sold out. In the clearance sale (which I missed!) everything was sold off! Wail, sob, weep! I remembered my masculine virtues and finally steeled myself.
This year, like every year, I had a birthday. Instead of a book voucher, I wished for a fragrance from my friends. I offered to procure the scent due to my special preferences and to hand it unopened to a good fairy for loving packaging. This way, my friends also had something tangible to hand over, and I had something to unwrap. Furthermore, I hoped to entice more victims; however, despite praise for my good taste, this intention was unsuccessful. Perhaps it was due to other needs to be satisfied with limited resources.

I won't say anything about the scent description; Parfumfan29 (I hope you are doing well again!) has already described it masterfully.

Regarding the packaging and the bottle: a tactile pleasure! There is something sensual about holding this bottle. Shaped like an Egyptian obelisk. Regardless of whether Francois Rancé was really Napoleon's court perfumer (alleged sharp competition: Creed with its Bois du Portugal), they do it consistently and well. At least the family history and contemporary history were well studied and evaluated for the naming of the perfumes: Egypt and its culture became known in the West only through Bonaparte's campaign (1798 - 1801): Rosetta Stone, I’ll just say.

Anyone who does not feel psychologically well for whatever reasons but is still open to external impressions should take this scent. A soul-soother, a comforter, a cuddler.

Therefore, I classify it as a late summer/fall and winter scent. Anyone who likes Tucholsky, especially knows "The Fifth Season" and can imagine themselves in the mood described in the poem in "Parc Monceau," knows what I mean.

Applied sparingly, two sprays once on the left and right on the chest, I can still smell this scent very finely after twenty hours.

Such elegance is - probably due to ignorance of many other wonderful scents - very affordable (in the truest sense of the word!) with a great bottle.

Francois Charles is one of the scents I will repurchase, alongside "Jacques Zolty" and "Armani Code Sport." Hugh, I have spoken!

This comment is dedicated to the dear Turandot, who tried to pull me out of my writing laziness!

Graf de la Fère

On the recommendation of a sadly former Parfumo member, I took a leap of faith and yesterday Tsar moved in with me in a 50 ml bottle. I’m glad that the bottle no longer looks like a ribbed washing board insert, but rather like a dark green glass bottle similar to Pour Homme. Somewhere I read that it is supposed to be in Art Deco style. The bottle invites you to pick it up again and again, a sensual pleasure!
Excursus:
An additional confession: I am trying - increasingly so lately - to buy bottles with relatively little content, so that the perfumes can eventually be finished. This way, I can test the oversized tester over a longer period to see if a new purchase is in order. For example, I won’t buy “Sunday Cologne” again - even though it’s good - I still have about 80 ml left. They will all be used up, and it works for women too; my partner is certainly happy when I scent her with it.
Back to the fragrance:
I cannot add anything enlightening to the rating of 27 (see below as of 02.09.2011!); but I find Tsar, despite all its spiciness and woodiness, to be a very bright and also fresh perfume. Is it the bergamot and/or neroli that are responsible for this?
As NEC beautifully said in his unfortunately no longer listed comment, it works for all occasions; I personally feel very good with it, a bit extravagant. At first, Tsar comes across as very strong, so I shouldn’t spray too much; unfortunately, the intensity doesn’t last too long. Perhaps I need to reapply after 2 hours - or my nose gets used to this pleasant scent too quickly.
It’s a pity: not pleasant things last or hold on for even a reasonable amount of time!
(Quote stolen from a novel by Simmel and rephrased for Parfumo purposes)

This comment is dedicated to the pleasant memory of NEC, who unfortunately has signed off from Parfumo! Perhaps he continues to read passively!

Today, after long neglecting my "Knize Ten" and leaving it somewhere in the back of the dark bedroom closet, I dug it out again:
15 ml of concentrated essence without a spray head, how do I deal with you?
Dispose of it, give it away, offer it on Parfumos?

After the first attempts, I was running around smelling like a black leather guy! And that was just from rubbing a single upside-down application on a cotton pad over as large a skin surface as possible, even the backs of my knees were considered! As far as my scent-ignorant surroundings noticed anything, the left eyebrows were raised; the men remained politely silent. Only my wife expressed her displeasure about the scent choice and the incredible presence of this rather unusual fragrance.
To be honest, my bronchi were also crying out: "Mercy!"

Enough about my feelings: I gathered my courage! On freshly showered skin somewhere in the middle of my chest: a tilt of 90 degrees; instantly bending forward resulted in a (almost) homeopathic dose, about half a drop. After air-drying the scented spot, I applied more!
Sniff: well, still a remarkable projection, but tolerable. After about two and a half hours, I smelled so subtly leather-masculine that I have now decided to use up my bottle over the next few years; if I want, may, or even must prove my masculinity against my otherwise classically scented preferences. My wife seemed to like me smelling like this; she granted me a smile full of grace and affection!

Please do not expect any analyses of the scents from me: my sensitive, but rather holistic nose cannot handle that! If this comment is received favorably, I would rather describe my impressions of scents as they occur.

How did I even come to acquire Knize Ten as a somewhat oversized sample? In the mid-eighties, I wanted to present myself as a bit more worldly, after my nonspecific inclinations towards socialism had faded: I started reading "Capital" (=> how sensible!). There were also columns on fine living that I liked, but could not implement due to lack of means. Well, fantasy journeys to different realms can also be quite nice, with sighing suppressed desires! Anyway, I read an article about men's fragrances. I don't remember everything, but some celebrities at the time named their preferred scents. Who still knows Gregor von Rezzori today? This handsome, distinguished old gentleman named "Knize Ten" as his lifelong fragrance companion. I was heavily impressed by his statement and his totally unheard-of scent and the brand. I never found the fragrance afterward and didn't hear anything more about its existence. Then, in the age of the internet at my computer, I remembered him and my desire to absolutely get to know it. I believe I already knew Parfumo as an anonymous freeloader. While surfing, I read that it is supposed to be very special. So first, I got a small bottle. After overcoming my (by now) conservative concerns about online purchases (confession: I still don't like to give out my account number for direct debit authorizations when shopping online!), nothing stood in the way of an online purchase.
As I said, the scent is really very special, pure crashing masculinity. Usage advice for the first time: gently, gently with the young horses! Get to know it slowly.
My bottle will be used up, but not replaced.