02/07/2025

Jones
24 Reviews

Jones
Top Review
10
Bleu de Chanel Parfum
Here we have Bleu de Chanel in its various formulas and vests (Edt, Edp and Parfum), namely one of the top creations of the Blue Fragrances-League and (in this case) an Oliver Polge's piece of woody/musky/ambery refinement. Perfectly blended, versatile and mass appealing but at same time classy and performing. Definitely a well known protagonist of contemporary designer perfumery. The classic Jacques Polge's Chanel Bleu Edt (2010) is dry, shadowy/translucent and enigmatic a la Pomellato Uomo (fragrances as Pomellato Uomo, Enrico Coveri Pour Homme, Chopard Heaven, Oscar de la Renta Pour Lui, Byblos Uomo or Guy Laroche Horizon - each of them with its own specific aromatic fougère or woody-musky peculiarities - represent the ancestors of the modern blue fragrances). The Eau de Parfum (2014) following version (still Jacques Polge) was basically an intenser and more ambery faint revisitation of the original Edt formula. This Parfum-formula (Oliver Polge), introduced by Chanel in the course of 2018, namely few years later the Sauvage's bombastic launch by its main competitor Dior (and almost in contemporaneity with the Sauvage Eau de Parfum's inception), is on the contrary a pretty different kind of fragrance (once you compare it with its older cousins, especially considering the different dry down) and is the Chanel Bleu's version which probably I prefer on my skin, the most intense and "presenceful" (and probably the darkest and most saturnine). While the EDT and EDP introduce an acid, pungent and really fresh citrus aromatic opening ending down to be gradually blended with dusty frankincense, sharp spices and dry woods this Parfum-version smells since the beginning fresh and dry-fruity but a tad less freshly citric and sharply floral while I detect a stronger aromatic barbershop initial twist (almost without or anyway with less of the Edt's aldehydic presence) before it keeps sliding in to this deeply woody and almost inky blue smell enhanced by dark amberwood, synth musk, sandalwood and tonka bean. The introducing tart citrus are soon supported by an excellent aromatic-fougère lavender, a tad of pepper and a twist of herbal camphoraceous mint. Pineapple plays just an accessorial role of citrus-support just adding hints of tartness to a most developed modern herbal-laundry aromatic roar (slightly a la Sauvage Elixir). I detect less spices and less fruitiness as comparing it with the previous Edt and Edp. Once this aromatic status slightly recedes (just passing across a fleeting dry floral transition) this quite dark synth woody-ambery base reaches its dominant vest providing a solidly dark, woody and warmly virile dimension longly and powerfully operating on my skin. Iso-E super provides a tad of synthetic muskiness all around supporting amberwood and aromatics. Super dark and uncompromisingly virile piece of contemporary olfactory work for the metropolitan well trimmed urban fellow. This is a four seasons truly versatile perfume (actually could be at once an office scent or a night out fragrance) really bossy and assertive.