Beardy
Reviews
Beardy
Tigerlily by Suzy Le Helley
Writing stream-of-consciousness:
Opening blast highly reminiscent of the aldehydes employed in Minneapolis 5.3 by Spyros Drosopoulous. This, however, quickly calms down and transitions into a metallic, almost grape / blackberry like accord, further smoothed out by an underlying violet. People are referencing the salmon pink at the bottom of the bottle; however, I see almost more fuchsia as opposed to magenta. This is a bit more transparent than 5.3, but this does indisputably reference detergent/fabric softener. This is metallic, tongue tickling aldehydes that verge on the tuning-fork-to-the-skull effect, but really calm themselves down to a background presence within a reasonable amount of time - the persistence of the effervescence seems quite astonishing and is quite enjoyable (the same sort of happy feeling I get with Cristalle Eau Verte) - personal preference may vary.
The overall fragrance now 20 or so minutes in wears relatively moist, as opposed to say the chalky dry down of No 5 L’eau. Unlike L’eau though, this is not aggravating my sinuses regardless of me placing my nose close to the skin or retaining distance from my arm. The detergent association is inescapable, but this is not dusty - quite fresh, uplifting, and less (imo) crass compared to the more recent MFKs.
This smells “icy” without being “cold”. Hence I believe the references to No. 22. Perhaps a bit of bubblegum too - that pink rose bubblegum feeling that FilipMurray references below reminding us of CDG Concrete - nothing too juvenile. My wife commented on a slight smokiness in the background, in our opinion attributed to the frankincense - that sort of cool, smoky, grey feeling to it. There is no watermelon in this, but I do get that sort of proto-aquatic fruity/salty freshness in the dry down akin to Aramis’ New West for Him (vintage, not that abomination Gentleman’s Collection version).
The fragrance is perhaps traveling down a linear path, but there are a few swerves here and there - the fragrance feels fluid instead of static. It retains interest - I keep wanting to discern the scent subtleties. The deep dry-down brining incensed sandalwood rubbed over with a vanilla balm - not sweet, not different, just a continual smoothing of the opening.
This reminds me more of the quality/pace of the brand with Eau De Magnolia, say as opposed to earlier produced Iris Poudre - make of that what you will.
This makes me happy.
Owning Lys Mediteranee (my wedding fragrance and first Malle), Bois d’Orage, Geranium Pour Monsieur, Vetiver Extraordinaire, Cologne Indelibe, and Eau De Magnolia, I can genuinely see myself reaching for my wallet for this far sooner than for either Rose & Cuir or Heaven Can Wait.
I think a lot of the contempt for this fragrance is due to Malle retiring and this being a collaboration that “appears” more low-browed compared to Dries Van Noten and Alber Elbaz - I believe wholeheartedly if this had a black label marked with Suzy Le Helley’s name and was given a conventional title (let’s randomly steal “Tigerlily” from Natalie Merchant’s debut solo album) this would be less attacked and more appreciated for what it is.
In fact, it’s a crime that Suzy doesn’t get her name plastered on this - just as Bruno for Dries and Dominique for Superstitious . For her first all-on-her own fragrance? Bravo!
Opening blast highly reminiscent of the aldehydes employed in Minneapolis 5.3 by Spyros Drosopoulous. This, however, quickly calms down and transitions into a metallic, almost grape / blackberry like accord, further smoothed out by an underlying violet. People are referencing the salmon pink at the bottom of the bottle; however, I see almost more fuchsia as opposed to magenta. This is a bit more transparent than 5.3, but this does indisputably reference detergent/fabric softener. This is metallic, tongue tickling aldehydes that verge on the tuning-fork-to-the-skull effect, but really calm themselves down to a background presence within a reasonable amount of time - the persistence of the effervescence seems quite astonishing and is quite enjoyable (the same sort of happy feeling I get with Cristalle Eau Verte) - personal preference may vary.
The overall fragrance now 20 or so minutes in wears relatively moist, as opposed to say the chalky dry down of No 5 L’eau. Unlike L’eau though, this is not aggravating my sinuses regardless of me placing my nose close to the skin or retaining distance from my arm. The detergent association is inescapable, but this is not dusty - quite fresh, uplifting, and less (imo) crass compared to the more recent MFKs.
This smells “icy” without being “cold”. Hence I believe the references to No. 22. Perhaps a bit of bubblegum too - that pink rose bubblegum feeling that FilipMurray references below reminding us of CDG Concrete - nothing too juvenile. My wife commented on a slight smokiness in the background, in our opinion attributed to the frankincense - that sort of cool, smoky, grey feeling to it. There is no watermelon in this, but I do get that sort of proto-aquatic fruity/salty freshness in the dry down akin to Aramis’ New West for Him (vintage, not that abomination Gentleman’s Collection version).
The fragrance is perhaps traveling down a linear path, but there are a few swerves here and there - the fragrance feels fluid instead of static. It retains interest - I keep wanting to discern the scent subtleties. The deep dry-down brining incensed sandalwood rubbed over with a vanilla balm - not sweet, not different, just a continual smoothing of the opening.
This reminds me more of the quality/pace of the brand with Eau De Magnolia, say as opposed to earlier produced Iris Poudre - make of that what you will.
This makes me happy.
Owning Lys Mediteranee (my wedding fragrance and first Malle), Bois d’Orage, Geranium Pour Monsieur, Vetiver Extraordinaire, Cologne Indelibe, and Eau De Magnolia, I can genuinely see myself reaching for my wallet for this far sooner than for either Rose & Cuir or Heaven Can Wait.
I think a lot of the contempt for this fragrance is due to Malle retiring and this being a collaboration that “appears” more low-browed compared to Dries Van Noten and Alber Elbaz - I believe wholeheartedly if this had a black label marked with Suzy Le Helley’s name and was given a conventional title (let’s randomly steal “Tigerlily” from Natalie Merchant’s debut solo album) this would be less attacked and more appreciated for what it is.
In fact, it’s a crime that Suzy doesn’t get her name plastered on this - just as Bruno for Dries and Dominique for Superstitious . For her first all-on-her own fragrance? Bravo!
Relayer/Sound Chaser
Hiram's recent Arcadia is of a fougere nature: the fern, odorless, yet evocative of one of the most iconic scents, is exquisitely expressed in this work. The opening is bracing, like the rush of the chilled wind atop Mt. St. Helen in the rainy Fall - when the snow is not thick, but begins to lightly envelop the branches of the Pacific Silver Firs. The rose and jasmine combine with bergamot and an astringent lavender to recreate in essence a more "realistic" interpretation of the infamous English Fern (Penhaligon's). Whereas English Fern wears dense, artificial, and currently waxy in way, Arcadia is sheer, effervescent, and - expectedly - natural. Keep in mind though that the opening is quite bracing, perhaps jarring upon initial blast with this “wintergreen” slap.
The base expresses itself with a smooth transition to the cooling tonka that imparts an unsweetened vanilla touch imparted with a nutty, smooth cashmere-like scent. Comforting and hypnotic in it it's pull.
Men and women alike will enjoy, but certainly engage if you enjoy Molinard's Lavande, Rania J's Lavande 44, Penhaligon's Sartorial and English Fern, Houbigant's Duc de Vervins, and even Brut by Faberge!
Hiram's Arcadia is the clearest, most evocative of the imaginary fern smell that we all know and love. Test first.
*Purchased sample
The base expresses itself with a smooth transition to the cooling tonka that imparts an unsweetened vanilla touch imparted with a nutty, smooth cashmere-like scent. Comforting and hypnotic in it it's pull.
Men and women alike will enjoy, but certainly engage if you enjoy Molinard's Lavande, Rania J's Lavande 44, Penhaligon's Sartorial and English Fern, Houbigant's Duc de Vervins, and even Brut by Faberge!
Hiram's Arcadia is the clearest, most evocative of the imaginary fern smell that we all know and love. Test first.
*Purchased sample
ERIS’ Magnum Opus
Review based on ERIS Discovery Set won randomly via CaFleureBon giveaway, provided by the brand's founder Barbara Herman:
I read an article on Fragrantica by Matvey Yudov in which he explicitly called on CdG's Wonderwood as a precursor to SR, and I must admit that this was my instant connection as well.
Not unlike the common thread between Jacques Polge's Boise des Iles-inspired trio of Bois Noir, Egoïste, and No. 18, this profile is truly indicative of Antoine's aptitude for marrying spice and sandalwood, as well as incense and pepper in an astonishing, intellectual perfume. Whilst Wonderwood could be considered the Egoïste, Scorpio Rising is truly the equivalent of the fabled Bois Noir. Not that either smell like or resemble the Chanels, but rather share this concept of developing scent through multiple completed fragrances.
The complexity is nothing short of brilliant, with a logical shift through to the dry-down that yet somehow confounds the wearer in the most wonderful way - combating back and forth between hot and cold, brash and mellow, damp pepper and dry smoke. The spices push to the max, falling just below the point-of-no-return, progressively softening through the sweetened facets of immortelle in tandem with the guaiac wood. As others have stated in their reviews, the airiness of the scent is something of a revelation in the midst of assumptions of impenetrability to prevail in an amber bed. This is a fragrance that is worn by the wearer, and not the other way around.
Spice and pepper have never been handled so robustly, yet deftly in my opinion aside from Jean-Claude Ellena (Angeliques Sous le Plouie, Epice Marine) and the late Edmond Roudnitska (Eau d'Hermes). Similarly to those aforementioned, the quality of Scorpio Rising is truly immaculate.
I feel compelled to express my appreciation for this articulation of jarring and serenity in a single vial. This is truly the magnum opus of the collection. To note: the quality of the ingredients from L'AFdM are quite apparent, and drive a true appreciation for their mission and painstaking efforts to procure the most pure and responsible products.
I read an article on Fragrantica by Matvey Yudov in which he explicitly called on CdG's Wonderwood as a precursor to SR, and I must admit that this was my instant connection as well.
Not unlike the common thread between Jacques Polge's Boise des Iles-inspired trio of Bois Noir, Egoïste, and No. 18, this profile is truly indicative of Antoine's aptitude for marrying spice and sandalwood, as well as incense and pepper in an astonishing, intellectual perfume. Whilst Wonderwood could be considered the Egoïste, Scorpio Rising is truly the equivalent of the fabled Bois Noir. Not that either smell like or resemble the Chanels, but rather share this concept of developing scent through multiple completed fragrances.
The complexity is nothing short of brilliant, with a logical shift through to the dry-down that yet somehow confounds the wearer in the most wonderful way - combating back and forth between hot and cold, brash and mellow, damp pepper and dry smoke. The spices push to the max, falling just below the point-of-no-return, progressively softening through the sweetened facets of immortelle in tandem with the guaiac wood. As others have stated in their reviews, the airiness of the scent is something of a revelation in the midst of assumptions of impenetrability to prevail in an amber bed. This is a fragrance that is worn by the wearer, and not the other way around.
Spice and pepper have never been handled so robustly, yet deftly in my opinion aside from Jean-Claude Ellena (Angeliques Sous le Plouie, Epice Marine) and the late Edmond Roudnitska (Eau d'Hermes). Similarly to those aforementioned, the quality of Scorpio Rising is truly immaculate.
I feel compelled to express my appreciation for this articulation of jarring and serenity in a single vial. This is truly the magnum opus of the collection. To note: the quality of the ingredients from L'AFdM are quite apparent, and drive a true appreciation for their mission and painstaking efforts to procure the most pure and responsible products.
Chanel No. 5 Pour Monsieur
Albeit certainly and unarguably feminine leaning in its opening plushness, there is an air not too dissimilar to my "unofficial" non-Chant Lauder pairing of Lauder for Men/Knowing (a la Devin/Aliage, 900/AE, etc.) without the latter's tuning-fork-to-the-skull effects. The plushness of the aldehydes and floral notes subside, and we are left with a hypnotic soapy iris/vanillic sweetened suede. I think JTD would have certainly enjoyed a write-up on this one.
Never "powdery", but certainly "perfumey" that becomes "cologne-y". Will never become a blockbuster, but as Will C. stated: that isn't the point here.
There's something here for passionate collectors - for everyone else: no "manly" men should fear that in their wardrobes, nor fear wearing it out. Don't be afraid of Chanel 1957 either...
Never "powdery", but certainly "perfumey" that becomes "cologne-y". Will never become a blockbuster, but as Will C. stated: that isn't the point here.
There's something here for passionate collectors - for everyone else: no "manly" men should fear that in their wardrobes, nor fear wearing it out. Don't be afraid of Chanel 1957 either...
And many fantasies were learned…
A luminous fruity-floral anchored by the bronze notes of labdanum, exemplified in the single black waves of Bruno’s synesthesia-inspired artwork amidst the pastel explosions throughout. The soft-hued pallete mimics Poof’s gauzy, musky air that is never too floral, and subtly reminiscent of bubblegum in an attractive, mature, yet playful way. A powdered base in my perception of honey-sweetened cream leaves a trail of desire.
As with Ummagumma, this fragrance doesn’t express itself fully upon initial blast - I would say each fragrance has less of a traditional “development” as opposed to rather an “unfurling” of the notes, as if compacted in the bottle and slowly unraveled in the open air.
Confident men need please apply. Something chalky and sweet reminiscent of Orange Star - kind-of-but-not-really…
The happiness this brings is that not dissimilar to “(Keep Feeling) Fascination” by The Human League.
Bravo Bruno. Sample purchased directly from Fzotic.
As with Ummagumma, this fragrance doesn’t express itself fully upon initial blast - I would say each fragrance has less of a traditional “development” as opposed to rather an “unfurling” of the notes, as if compacted in the bottle and slowly unraveled in the open air.
Confident men need please apply. Something chalky and sweet reminiscent of Orange Star - kind-of-but-not-really…
The happiness this brings is that not dissimilar to “(Keep Feeling) Fascination” by The Human League.
Bravo Bruno. Sample purchased directly from Fzotic.
