03/24/2015
Rickbr
190 Reviews
Rickbr
Top Review
Hermès wanting Cartier best-sellers or a scent with amusing things
Besides being extremely wearable, in line with the silky and minimalistic aestethic of the maison, there are some things really amusing on this perfume that finishes the Hermés Jardins saga and which also works as a baton pass between the oficcial perfumer, Jean Claude Ellena, and his substitute Christina Nagel.
The first amusing thing for me here is that is very clearly how Hermés is on eye on its luxury neighbour of other segment, Cartier. After all, now they have two of the perfumers that created the biggest sales sucesses of the line, the two fragrances that most generated flankers inside the brand: Declaration Cartier (Ellena's work from 1998) and Eau de Cartie (Christine Nagel's work from 2001). If you look for those two creations, it's clear that when the style is transparent and minimalist Ellena and Nagel work in different ways but in similar forms and the impression that i have is that on Monsieur Li you see a joint work of both minimalist styles.
The second amusing thing for me here is that how this imaginary garden of an imaginary Monsieur has such a delicated and luminous floral aura that many would associate more with a Madam Li than a monsieur. In this sense, Le Jardin is, after Un Jardin Sur Le toit, a fragrance that works on the edge of the genres, a unissex creation almost going into the feminine direction.
The third amusing thing for me here is that i notice more and more that to achieve a luxury aura, delicate, without any rough edges, perfumers seems to use considerable synthetic compound amounts and the synthetic word is seem a lot for the common user as something cheap. So, there is a contradiction, the fragrances that you think are luxury might be loaded with the things you consider cheap. Altough this garden is a jasmine inspired one, one of Ellena's favorites, i would say that is an immaginary garden of the molecule most used to emulate jasmine in fragrances, Hedione. Certainly there is other jasmine molecules extending its smell and giving it creamier nuances, but Monsieur Li seems to me basically a vegetal musky fragrance with hedione at its center. The opening is interesting, of green citrus aura, with fruity nuances, something that reminds me of bergamot, grapefruit and slightly of papaya too. The luminous jasmine influence of creamy and fruity nuances come next and accompanied with some molecule or base that also makes me think of orchids. From this moment is that the Christine Nagel influence starts to be very clear to me in the the composition, with a base that seems like a recap of the woody, musky and transparente base found in Eau de Cartier.
In the end, it's as if this one were an Eau de Cartier Essence de Jasmine, which incidentally would be an excellent addition to the Cartier line if they decided to retribute the kindness of the clear and direct inspiration in one of their most succesful commercial creations.
The first amusing thing for me here is that is very clearly how Hermés is on eye on its luxury neighbour of other segment, Cartier. After all, now they have two of the perfumers that created the biggest sales sucesses of the line, the two fragrances that most generated flankers inside the brand: Declaration Cartier (Ellena's work from 1998) and Eau de Cartie (Christine Nagel's work from 2001). If you look for those two creations, it's clear that when the style is transparent and minimalist Ellena and Nagel work in different ways but in similar forms and the impression that i have is that on Monsieur Li you see a joint work of both minimalist styles.
The second amusing thing for me here is that how this imaginary garden of an imaginary Monsieur has such a delicated and luminous floral aura that many would associate more with a Madam Li than a monsieur. In this sense, Le Jardin is, after Un Jardin Sur Le toit, a fragrance that works on the edge of the genres, a unissex creation almost going into the feminine direction.
The third amusing thing for me here is that i notice more and more that to achieve a luxury aura, delicate, without any rough edges, perfumers seems to use considerable synthetic compound amounts and the synthetic word is seem a lot for the common user as something cheap. So, there is a contradiction, the fragrances that you think are luxury might be loaded with the things you consider cheap. Altough this garden is a jasmine inspired one, one of Ellena's favorites, i would say that is an immaginary garden of the molecule most used to emulate jasmine in fragrances, Hedione. Certainly there is other jasmine molecules extending its smell and giving it creamier nuances, but Monsieur Li seems to me basically a vegetal musky fragrance with hedione at its center. The opening is interesting, of green citrus aura, with fruity nuances, something that reminds me of bergamot, grapefruit and slightly of papaya too. The luminous jasmine influence of creamy and fruity nuances come next and accompanied with some molecule or base that also makes me think of orchids. From this moment is that the Christine Nagel influence starts to be very clear to me in the the composition, with a base that seems like a recap of the woody, musky and transparente base found in Eau de Cartier.
In the end, it's as if this one were an Eau de Cartier Essence de Jasmine, which incidentally would be an excellent addition to the Cartier line if they decided to retribute the kindness of the clear and direct inspiration in one of their most succesful commercial creations.
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