Blackcurrant

Regrettably, I have not (yet) had the chance to smell any earlier version than what was available on US grey markets sites c. 2024. So, my review is about the current version.

In my edition of Sanchez / Turin's Perfumes A to Z guide (c. 2019), Turin subtitled this one as "Garish Rose." I bet he had an earlier version than mine. I bought mine "blind" based on his review and because it was identified as a chypre, which I'd only recently learned I love!

According to my notes, what I got upon first-ever spray and for the first 15+ minutes was a "cacophony" of jumbled notes I could not identify. But thereafter, much to my surprise, what I got was not the expected chypre leather, nor animalic, nor even rose accord. Rather, it became a pleasant soapy floral. And, lucky for me, I love a soapy floral, so I was pleased.

Somehow Parfum de Peau then got lost in the shuffle of my large collection; I didn't wear it again until today. And this time, nothing at all cacophonous. Rather, straight away, I got pleasant soapy floral. Very pleasant indeed though!

Will have to do an arm-to-arm wear with Animale Animale, Paloma Picasso, Cabochard (all current versions, alas) and my other chypres. So far, I don't find Parfum de Peau to be too similar to others I have. Still not getting rose from it though, let alone Turin's "Garish Rose."

I blind-bought this based on a Luca Turin review in which he states there are only two great lily fragrances: F. Malle's Lys Méditerranée and Donna Karan Gold.

Gold is discontinued but still available in the US at a bargain price on eBay. Knowing that discontinued fragrances eventually rise above my price range, I snapped up an ounce of the EDT.

Since then, I've gone back for a bottle of the EDP and a back-up bottle of the EDT because yes, I like it that much. But not for the lily! Which is fine, sure. However, it is the black locust blossom that is divine.

The black locust tree is native to North America. For two short weeks in spring, it is festooned in creamy white blossoms resembling wisteria in form. The blossoms cover the tree, and the trees are nearly always in groups. So the air around them is redolent with their fragrance.

The smell is recognizably "spring flowers": similar to lily of the valley but without its chilly sharpness. Very similar to lilac but without lilac's less-pleasant dank, musty brown nuances.

And black locust blossom's fragrance evokes both orange blossom and mock orange blossom -- smells that are among my favorites on earth.

Apparently, it is difficult to distill black locust blossom into perfume. And apparently, few perfumes showcase it. So, if you know the smell and love it, make haste to sample Gold before the last bottles are gone.

In the US, this is classified as a "drugstore cheapie." There's nothing lower, save maybe chain store body sprays and counterfeits. Drugstore cheapies are one step above (or just below) "celebrity fragrances."

I had this idea so auto-ingrained that I never tried either. Classic contempt prior to investigation: guilty!

And what a treat to finally discover fragrances well worth considering in both categories. This one, White Tea Wild Rose, was such a delightful surprise.

I love roses, and rose fragrances -- but with a lot of caveats. No potpourri - no powder - no patchouli (I've since relented on the latter). I want the scent of an old-fashioned garden rose chosen and planted for its exceptional fragrance. I want fresh, dewy. Nothing else added that interferes, one-ups, distracts from the rose.

And White Tea Wild Rose is all that.

What it is not is long-lasting. And so what? Sometimes that is ideal; say, when I want to wear something else later in the day. I can apply this early in the morning, and then switch to something else mid-afternoon. Or I just reapply: after all, it's a cheapie! And the opening is such a pleasure, reapplying is a joy.

I often wear Roses de Chloe on one arm and Diorissimo on the other because I love the fresh, joyful vibe they share.

I often wished I could find it combined in one fragrance, even sought recommendations, but none of the suggestions I tried were rose enough or LOTV enough.

Had to laugh at myself today: like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz (Spoiler Alert!), all along, what I was seeking I already had.

Oscar de la Renta Rose opens with such a strong note of dewy fresh pear that until today's wear I didn't notice the equally-prominent Lily of the Valley.

The rose note quickly follows and takes center stage where she stays throughout the wear. It's the scent of a garden rose planted for its exceptional fragrance. An old-world rose you are smelling right where it's blooming, fresh and dewy. And strong!

The base is clean musk. That is all I detect.

The performance is excellent for a fresh floral. Three light sprays and I can smell it without effort throughout the day, into evening.

If you try it, underspray to test. I think overspraying could be overwhelming.

Oscar's Rose may lack the dark sophistication of POAL or the marshmallow that's trendy - it's just a fresh happy green rose. But lovely. And lovelier still for its LOTV, which does linger lightly through the wear