Mandarin orange
Cardamom
MonsieurTest
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Escentric Mandarines 01/02. Geza Schön synthesizes a year-round cologne
This entry in the long line of new combinations from 4711 is a remarkable one. It is a relatively long-lasting cologne with a woody base. "This is not immediately and always on the run," our favorite barber Korianke might summarize the contrast to many other cologne cousins. Parfuma Venice has aptly labeled Mandarin Cardamom here as a winter cologne. Christmas was also mentioned, as cardamom has been cast in the role of sidekick to Princess Mandarin.
I generally really like cardamom. However, it plays a somehow brighter, thinner, lighter role here than in darker-hued fragrances like YSL La Nuit, Azzaro Visit, or Nikos Sculpture Gods Night. Tending to remind me of the cardamom note in Silver Quorum (Puig), here in this wonderfully woody water, the cardamom appears closely blended with a lot of bright wood.
Interestingly, the 4711 pyramid does not mention wood at all, so it can be assumed that alongside the two titular figures, a good amount of Iso E Super is also at play, and probably Ambroxan as well. This gives it a volume that is, in my opinion, atypical for a cologne, which nonetheless lacks any depth. A fairly large string orchestra plus woodwinds without basses and with cellos that hardly descend into the lower registers. A perfume made up entirely of middle voices.
The mandarin sings above with a bright soubrette soprano; it is zesty, somewhat naturally intonated, but certainly not as rounded, powerful, and full-bodied as that from Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic, my reference for mandarins. It does not last as long and it radiates less far.
As much as I appreciate this cologne and its two main characters, and as certain as I am that I would count it among the best of the 4711 colognes, and as versatile as its usability seems due to wood + freshness, there remains a small doubt as to whether this has truly become a great water with potential to be a favorite scent.
It does not seem as beautifully rounded and soft as Schön's 4711 Lime & Nutmeg. There is something slightly shrill, bluntly piercing, yes, even synthetic that vibrates in between at times. I suspect one of the two mentioned modern aroma chemicals is making it seem a bit unnatural.
Not a Grand Cru, no. But still a modern, original cologne, where everyone can explore the many conceivable and certainly possible areas of application.
I generally really like cardamom. However, it plays a somehow brighter, thinner, lighter role here than in darker-hued fragrances like YSL La Nuit, Azzaro Visit, or Nikos Sculpture Gods Night. Tending to remind me of the cardamom note in Silver Quorum (Puig), here in this wonderfully woody water, the cardamom appears closely blended with a lot of bright wood.
Interestingly, the 4711 pyramid does not mention wood at all, so it can be assumed that alongside the two titular figures, a good amount of Iso E Super is also at play, and probably Ambroxan as well. This gives it a volume that is, in my opinion, atypical for a cologne, which nonetheless lacks any depth. A fairly large string orchestra plus woodwinds without basses and with cellos that hardly descend into the lower registers. A perfume made up entirely of middle voices.
The mandarin sings above with a bright soubrette soprano; it is zesty, somewhat naturally intonated, but certainly not as rounded, powerful, and full-bodied as that from Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria Mandarine Basilic, my reference for mandarins. It does not last as long and it radiates less far.
As much as I appreciate this cologne and its two main characters, and as certain as I am that I would count it among the best of the 4711 colognes, and as versatile as its usability seems due to wood + freshness, there remains a small doubt as to whether this has truly become a great water with potential to be a favorite scent.
It does not seem as beautifully rounded and soft as Schön's 4711 Lime & Nutmeg. There is something slightly shrill, bluntly piercing, yes, even synthetic that vibrates in between at times. I suspect one of the two mentioned modern aroma chemicals is making it seem a bit unnatural.
Not a Grand Cru, no. But still a modern, original cologne, where everyone can explore the many conceivable and certainly possible areas of application.
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