Comed

The Private Line (dark bottle) has been replaced by the Signature version (clear bottle) from Tom Ford. In fact, I like both versions well.

The Private version is super green, multifaceted, and very playful. I once described it as a journey through the herb garden. The scent undergoes a strong transformation. And it is therefore somewhat harder to understand.

I believe that is why Tom Ford developed the Signature version, as the main theme is pleasing, and the facets were partly misunderstood and thus seemingly unnecessary.

The Signature version is therefore less complex and actually only represents the main theme of the fragrance (this wonderful Zino note) really well. Additionally, the drydown has turned out to be somewhat monotonous. The patchouli/amber combination unfortunately comes across as less high-quality, somewhat synthetic, even "pasty."

The many small, green facets from the Private Line are missing. Even though the melody is the same, I feel like I have an orchestra one time and a jukebox the next... it’s a different experience.

Conclusion:
The Private Line scent is the more exciting fragrance for me. It is versatile and complex.
The Signature version is better for everyday use, as it is cheaper, less dense, and less complex.
Actually, just as I had hoped. I will keep both samples, as I really like the main theme. Depending on the occasion, I reach for more or fewer facets.

Since 1959, this wonderful fragrance has existed, and I have tested and analyzed the last 4 reformulations for myself. The results may help you identify and better categorize the different versions:

1. Vintage version, brown liquid (before the year 2000)

Top note: Citrus+, Tobacco+++
Drydown: Vetiver+, Tobacco+++
Warmth: +++
Green: 0
Projection: 0
Longevity: +
Note: Vetiver as a complement to fine cut tobacco, unfortunately quickly becomes very close to the skin after an unspectacular opening

2. Polished milk glass, wide bottle, green liquid (from 2000-2011)

Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco++
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Warmth: +
Green: +
Projection: ++
Longevity: ++
Note: completely new composition, Vetiver appears green, cool, and sober, Tobacco is only prominent in the top note, then a harmonious Tobacco-Vetiver side by side in the drydown

3. Silver cap, slender bottle, curved "Guerlain" lettering, green liquid, green packaging (from 2011-2016)

Top note: Citrus++, Tobacco+
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco++
Warmth: ++
Green: +
Projection: ++
Longevity: +
Note: harmonious from the start, Vetiver and Tobacco nicely balanced in the drydown, edges and corners have been smoothed out, composition is a bit warmer again

4. Artificial wood cap, tall bottle, simple "Guerlain" lettering, green liquid, gray uniform packaging (since 2016)

Top note: Citrus+++, Tobacco+
Drydown: Vetiver++, Tobacco+
Warmth: +
Green: ++
Projection: ++
Longevity: +
Note: Prominent lemon in the opening, much less Tobacco, becomes a harsher Vetiver-green in the drydown, slightly dull, warmth has been reduced again

Over time, the ratios of Vetiver and Tobacco have changed significantly. In summary, it can be said that Tobacco has been increasingly reduced. In return, the fragrance has become more Vetiver-green and the top note increasingly citrusy.

I wouldn't go so far as to say that the 4 versions can be considered standalone fragrances. The theme of the "smoking gardener" is still present, but he smokes significantly less than before, which probably fits better into our non-smoking society. ;)

To assess the question of price and quality, a comparison is always necessary.

Am I too tall or too short? Too fat or too thin? Too expensive or too cheap? Compared to what, please? Without a comparison, one cannot move forward...

I will specifically compare the scent here with Elysium Cologne by Roja Dove. Why? Simply subjective perception.

For the comparison always lies in the eye of the beholder. And for me personally, Office for Men strongly reminds me of Elysium Cologne by Roja Dove.

Moreover, both have a similarly elevated price of 160-260 euros per 100 ml and therefore must be measured against each other by me.

Where is the money best invested?

While the opening of the Roja comes across as fruitier and maximally radiant, Alberto makes the scent for Jeremy woodier and less loud.

Morillas spares the typically pompous fireworks of the Roja opening, instead shining with significantly better longevity and an arm's length projection.

If you want artistic spectacle, you reach for Elysium. If you want solid craftsmanship that lasts an extra mile in the office, go for Office for Men.

Where are the differences? More in the marketing.

If you want beautiful stories about noble fragrance materials and childlike experiences, you reach for Roja Parfums. If you want YouTube push-ups and "the Best" bling-bling, you inevitably end up with Jeremy.

What is the same? Solid craftsmanship.

The juice is top-notch in both cases. The perfumers are true masters. The minds are great storytellers. And both scents are positioned in the mass-market segment at niche prices.

Whether they achieve commercial success will be shown by the comparison with the market. I wish both of them well. They both do good work.

For a long time, I have been looking for a wearable Oud fragrance for the office. Oud and office - is that even possible?

In the office, I either wear scents with a maximum projection of an arm's length. Or those that are so pleasing that you can hardly perceive them yourself. Reflection Man or Aventus are good examples of that.

When Oud is in play, it becomes interesting for me. Oud is like the salt in the soup. Too much is not good, and without it, it quickly becomes boring. The nose signals "safe" to the brain and gradually filters out many good scents.

Oud is the "wake-up call" of the perfume world. For my nose, it is impossible to filter out fragrances with Oud. Oud smells like burnt wood. Fire! An alarm signal that activates the mind.

However, you don't necessarily want that in the office. The only exception might be trade fairs or negotiations. Here, you want to be constantly present. Otherwise, not so much.

The Armani Eau de Nuit Oud masterfully achieves this difficult balance. It is present, but not more than an arm's length away. The iris is so noble and pleasing that my brain can switch off from time to time.

In terms of scent, the Armani is somewhere between Tom Ford's Oud Wood (cardamom) and Dior Homme (iris). The Oud here is a perfect counterbalance to the Tonka sweetness and develops a woody-creamy character. Longevity is ideal at 6-7 hours on my skin. I don't want to be in the office any longer. ;)

In conclusion, I can wholeheartedly recommend this fragrance for the office. It has its own character, but is still a team player: a true leader!

For completeness:
- At trade fairs, I wear Layton Exclusif. This has the pleasing Layton DNA with a monster sillage that reaches the end of the hall. :)
- In negotiations, I wear Gucci Oud Intense. This fragrance does not back down. Friendly but very determined, just like me. ;)

Early November, 10 degrees, and the days are getting darker. Time to engage with Oud fragrances.

I’m sending 3 fragrances into the race, which not only have Oud in their name but mainly also smell of Oud. Or what I consider Oud. ;)

Here we have the reformulated classic from YSL, M7 Oud Absolu. The established reference from Nasomatto, Black Afgano. And the challenger, Gucci Oud Intense here.

The opening of M7 starts very warm, round, and almost sweet with nuances of mandarin and for me, a very bright yet spicy Oud. The Gucci comes in a bit deeper with dark fruits. Black Afgano is the soprano in the round and hits you with an Oud that has nuances of cannabis. What a blast!

Over time, the Oud in M7 becomes a bit brighter and maintains its fine note on my skin for 6-7 hours without becoming overly intrusive. Simply a masterful composition without edges or corners. The projection is okay.

The Gucci maintains its high-quality Oud scent very linear for 8-10 hours at a high level. It is a bit stronger and darker than the M7. But still round. The projection is GOOD.

Over the course of Black Afgano, from 10-12 hours, the Oud scent becomes darker and towards the end, it becomes really heavy and smoky on the skin. For me, it’s even a bit exhausting to wear. The projection is STRONG.

Conclusion: For me personally, Gucci Oud Intense has won. Even if the scent composition of M7 may be more refined, it has something more valuable for me. You can tell the outstanding quality of the ingredients. The Oud simply smells wonderful.

Both are so beautiful and round that I can wear them in the office. The Gucci is right on the edge, but that’s exactly what I like about it. It is very present and doesn’t go overboard.

This is where I personally see the major weakness of Black Afgano. I can hardly think of scenarios where I want to smell so strong and heavy of Oud (and a bit of weed).

Nevertheless, all fragrances are wonderful Oud scents and should definitely be tested by anyone interested in Oud. Overall, I prefer the Gucci. Also in terms of price-performance. Thank you, Gucci!