Daan

It starts off good, it ends up bad. It’s nothing like the old version, which was a beautiful rose oriental take on the homme DNA. This goes in the direction of modern fougere, but then doesn’t go far enough. It is soulless I’m sad to say.
MFK went synthetic and abstract on a perfume line that is normally grounded and real. The result is confusing, disorienting and unpleasant. This is not a worthy successor, I will be looking for an older batch.

I would hate to be the perfumer having to release a new Tom Ford Private Blend right now. People cannot stop comparing it to 'the Tom Ford that used to be', in reality comparing it to a nostalgia colored memory of falling in love with Tom Ford's perfumery in general. How could anything new live up to all that?

That being said, back to the perfume: This is a wonderful original release. A fairly linear but nonetheless powerful accord of high quality myrrh, sandalwood en just enough vanilla. A skilled combination of synthetic and natural ingredients. It is warm, inviting and indeed mysterious. I recently added it to my collection and I have been wearing it pretty much daily.
I think many have been overlooking this perfume, it has a high concentration of sandalwood which needs some time to settle. Don't be too quick to write this one off as an unoriginal and people pleasing flanker of Ébène Fumé. You will be missing out.

9/10

The best perfume that Bortnikoff has ever made and my favorite perfume in my collection. Wonderfully complex. Very hard to describe a fragrance like this, but I must recommend anyone to try this. Such a joy to experience the warm yellow flowers on this cozy deer musk. It is sweet, indulgent and just the right amount of animalic. The original batch is crazy powerful and majestic, the new batch is a little more balanced and wearable. Both are a 10/10.
Cannot recommend this one enough!

Wonderful oakmoss. It opens warm-fluffy, sweet and gourmandy, like something out of a Grimm fairytale. Some woodiness like a sunny autumn forest. It is very inviting. After 30 minutes the opening subsides and the oakmoss becomes the main player, with supporting violet and nutmeg. It reminds me of grandma in the best way.
Oakmoss has a distinct 70s feel and reminds people of my generation of grandma's perfume. This one does as well, only it is an ode to that style of chypre, modern and classic combined. Easy to appreciate but hard to wear for someone my age, as passersby will likely associate this with elderly people. Maybe the next generation can wear chypres like this one again.
I will cherish my sample. In my opinion a deeply emotional scent. Very well blended. I don't get the mustiness some others comment on. Recommended to sample first though!