Danieru
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When the Flanker is Better than the Original
Gentleman Reserve Privee is, for me, alongside YSL Babycat, the best release in the designer sector this year. Admittedly, it sat around with my other decants for a while, living in the shadows. I even considered giving it away as a gift with another perfume order when I was shocked to realize that I hadn't tested it yet. However, the very next day, it accompanied me throughout the day. What can I say? It was love at first sniff, which has been a long time coming since I have been passionately pursuing my love for perfume and only managed to find that with Creed's Viking so far. I had already owned the original Gentleman in the black bottle, but after a few tests, I had to let it go; it was simply too powdery for me. The flanker does this better. In the opening, you are greeted by this powderiness, which comes across as finer here, thanks to the very subtle and delicate citrus from the bergamot and the sweet whisky. You can also detect a certain nuttiness. For me, this top note is truly a 10 out of 10. This composition of various nuances lasts for the first 20 minutes. The citrus then completely disappears, and the powderiness takes over, but not at the level of the original. For some reason, a vanilla component now comes into play, paired with chocolate. I honestly have no idea how this interplay comes about, but it is magnificent. The whisky note, which makes the scent slightly boozy, unfortunately disappears after about half an hour. What remains is the conglomerate of powderiness, vanilla, and chocolate, which is truly beautifully dreamy and stays that way for the next six hours. After that, Gentleman Reserve Privee undergoes another development. The powderiness recedes again, and alongside it, a very slight dirty note emerges, probably the patchouli, as well as the vetiver and a woody component. After about 8 hours, the scent is close to the skin, and what remains is the interplay of patchouli, vetiver, and cedarwood. At the beginning, a perception by others is guaranteed, even beyond an arm's length. The sillage is also impressive. The longevity is decent at around 10 hours. After the test, I felt a strong desire to call the scent along with its bottle my own, and I no longer want to miss it.
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A Call for Longer Testing
Xerjoff, probably the most hyped brand of 2021, at least that's how it seems to me. Above all, Xerjoff's flagship Naxos has enjoyed and continues to enjoy immense popularity, not only in the Parfumo universe but also beyond. Woe to those who do not appreciate this sanctuary ;)
However, this review is not about the brand itself and certainly not about Naxos; there are more than enough reviews and statements that deal with the fragrance, and almost daily there are more. Instead, I would like to dedicate myself to the "neglected" Xerjoff Zefiro.
I ordered this as a sample alongside Naxos and Renaissance in the Souk section. First, of course, I had to test Naxos, then it was Renaissance's turn, and finally Zefiro.
I sprayed it on my wrist and was thrilled. I had never smelled anything like it before.
The fragrance starts with a dust-dry incense. This, in my opinion, comes from the incense itself, paired with the iris present in the scent, which here, compared to other fragrances, does not come off as powdery but rather dry. In the first 30 minutes after spraying, nothing else can be sensed; the scent remains one-dimensional. After that, a finely balanced spiciness mixes with this incense, while at the same time a slight accompanying sweetness emerges. However, the incense remains dominant, although the dust-dry iris slowly retreats. After about an hour, you can still perceive the incense, but Zefiro then becomes sweeter and, in my opinion, more bearable and suitable for everyday wear. The sour-sweetness, which I associate with grape must, takes up more and more space. As time goes on, Zefiro loses the dominant incense, but it remains present until the end, albeit in a weakened form. After about two hours, the spices are gone, and the fragrance becomes sweeter. In my opinion, the resin and amber now set in, transforming the scent from initially dust-dry, through sour-spicy, to a sweet fragrance. This scent lasts until its conclusion of about ten hours. Beyond arm's length, Zefiro remains present for at least three hours for others. After that, it becomes close to the skin.
Flabbergasted by this impression, I found myself at the end of a fragrance journey and had added Xerjoff's Zefiro to my wish list so as not to forget it again. My finger was already itching to order a full bottle. However, I hesitated. So far, so good.
A few days after this olfactory experience, I sprayed my sample again and looked forward to the day with Zefiro. To my horror, I found that my nose wrinkled, and I no longer liked the scent from start to finish. What had happened in the meantime, I still do not know. Gone was the enthusiasm for this dust-dry incense, gone was the anticipation for the sweetness at the end. Even with further tests, Xerjoff Zefiro could no longer convince me. Rather, if I may be so bold, I was downright repulsed by the smell; I simply could not bear it anymore. Too overwhelming, too voluminous, too exhausting Zefiro became for me. Ultimately, it also had to be removed from my wish list. In hindsight, I am glad that it remained a sample and that I did not buy a bottle.
Personally, I find the scent unimaginable on a woman. If one adheres to the classic classification of masculine, feminine, and unisex, I would clearly categorize it as masculine. I would place it in the colder seasons, with autumn seeming the most suitable. As a mystically appealing fragrance, I would also wear it in the evening hours, and certainly not in the office.
Conclusion:
Zefiro is still, despite everything, a fascinating fragrance from the house of Xerjoff for me, even though I will most likely never buy it again, either as a sample or a bottle. I have not experienced such a unique fragrance development since then, and Zefiro is not bad in itself. However, in my opinion, it is too potent and intrusive, thus personally not wearable for me. Therefore, I arrive at a rating of 7.5 points for the fragrance itself. There is nothing to complain about regarding H/S, which is why I rated it relatively high fairly. Although Zefiro could not convince me, I truly recommend everyone to smell this fragrance at least once and form their own opinion. For me, this Xerjoff named niche fragrance is certainly worthy.
However, this review is not about the brand itself and certainly not about Naxos; there are more than enough reviews and statements that deal with the fragrance, and almost daily there are more. Instead, I would like to dedicate myself to the "neglected" Xerjoff Zefiro.
I ordered this as a sample alongside Naxos and Renaissance in the Souk section. First, of course, I had to test Naxos, then it was Renaissance's turn, and finally Zefiro.
I sprayed it on my wrist and was thrilled. I had never smelled anything like it before.
The fragrance starts with a dust-dry incense. This, in my opinion, comes from the incense itself, paired with the iris present in the scent, which here, compared to other fragrances, does not come off as powdery but rather dry. In the first 30 minutes after spraying, nothing else can be sensed; the scent remains one-dimensional. After that, a finely balanced spiciness mixes with this incense, while at the same time a slight accompanying sweetness emerges. However, the incense remains dominant, although the dust-dry iris slowly retreats. After about an hour, you can still perceive the incense, but Zefiro then becomes sweeter and, in my opinion, more bearable and suitable for everyday wear. The sour-sweetness, which I associate with grape must, takes up more and more space. As time goes on, Zefiro loses the dominant incense, but it remains present until the end, albeit in a weakened form. After about two hours, the spices are gone, and the fragrance becomes sweeter. In my opinion, the resin and amber now set in, transforming the scent from initially dust-dry, through sour-spicy, to a sweet fragrance. This scent lasts until its conclusion of about ten hours. Beyond arm's length, Zefiro remains present for at least three hours for others. After that, it becomes close to the skin.
Flabbergasted by this impression, I found myself at the end of a fragrance journey and had added Xerjoff's Zefiro to my wish list so as not to forget it again. My finger was already itching to order a full bottle. However, I hesitated. So far, so good.
A few days after this olfactory experience, I sprayed my sample again and looked forward to the day with Zefiro. To my horror, I found that my nose wrinkled, and I no longer liked the scent from start to finish. What had happened in the meantime, I still do not know. Gone was the enthusiasm for this dust-dry incense, gone was the anticipation for the sweetness at the end. Even with further tests, Xerjoff Zefiro could no longer convince me. Rather, if I may be so bold, I was downright repulsed by the smell; I simply could not bear it anymore. Too overwhelming, too voluminous, too exhausting Zefiro became for me. Ultimately, it also had to be removed from my wish list. In hindsight, I am glad that it remained a sample and that I did not buy a bottle.
Personally, I find the scent unimaginable on a woman. If one adheres to the classic classification of masculine, feminine, and unisex, I would clearly categorize it as masculine. I would place it in the colder seasons, with autumn seeming the most suitable. As a mystically appealing fragrance, I would also wear it in the evening hours, and certainly not in the office.
Conclusion:
Zefiro is still, despite everything, a fascinating fragrance from the house of Xerjoff for me, even though I will most likely never buy it again, either as a sample or a bottle. I have not experienced such a unique fragrance development since then, and Zefiro is not bad in itself. However, in my opinion, it is too potent and intrusive, thus personally not wearable for me. Therefore, I arrive at a rating of 7.5 points for the fragrance itself. There is nothing to complain about regarding H/S, which is why I rated it relatively high fairly. Although Zefiro could not convince me, I truly recommend everyone to smell this fragrance at least once and form their own opinion. For me, this Xerjoff named niche fragrance is certainly worthy.
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Untapped Potential
Once again on a visit to my old hometown, I naturally had to visit the local perfumery to gather new inspirations and perhaps also to expand my collection. Actually, I am looking for a citrus-creamy scent. Unfortunately, the search has so far been rather fruitless, but hope dies last. ;)
I was able to sniff briefly through the rather modest selection. Then someone sprayed the Trussardi on the tester. After a short wait for the top note to fade, I dared a sniff and was immediately captivated by the hazelnut. As a big nut fan, it was clear right away that this scent would be taken home. Done deal.
The next day, I immediately sprayed on my new treasure. I instantly noticed a light sweetness, paired with a minimal smokiness, the rum. In the background, the hazelnut was already detectable. After this promising opening, which lasts about fifteen minutes, I was looking forward to the heart note. And there it was again, my beloved hazelnut. So far, so good.
To my great regret, I had to realize that there was something else perceptible. A synthetic shower gel note that I recognized from my past. The comparison to Duschdas Noire is not off the mark. I used to love this as a child, as I truly adored that scent. But I don’t want to smell like that as a twenty-something, especially not in a perfume. Unfortunately, this shower gel experience lingers until the end. After about three to four hours, the hazelnut fades and the leather becomes noticeable, again with a minimal smokiness.
After about 7 hours, the scent is no longer perceptible. The sillage lasts at least two to three hours. The bottle is okay, nothing more and nothing less. However, I find it inappropriate, as it suggests a sporty or aquatic scent, which this Trussardi definitely is not. The scent is unisex for me and especially wearable in autumn as a daily fragrance.
Conclusion:
Would I recommend this scent? No.
Would I buy this scent again? No.
Is the scent bad? No.
I am a little annoyed by this scent. It had the potential to be good and could have easily achieved a higher rating if it weren't for that uninspired shower gel note. The composition of rum, hazelnut, and leather, along with this minimal smokiness, is really interesting. They have put obstacles in their own way here. Thus, unfortunately, the scent from Trussardi sinks into insignificance.
I was able to sniff briefly through the rather modest selection. Then someone sprayed the Trussardi on the tester. After a short wait for the top note to fade, I dared a sniff and was immediately captivated by the hazelnut. As a big nut fan, it was clear right away that this scent would be taken home. Done deal.
The next day, I immediately sprayed on my new treasure. I instantly noticed a light sweetness, paired with a minimal smokiness, the rum. In the background, the hazelnut was already detectable. After this promising opening, which lasts about fifteen minutes, I was looking forward to the heart note. And there it was again, my beloved hazelnut. So far, so good.
To my great regret, I had to realize that there was something else perceptible. A synthetic shower gel note that I recognized from my past. The comparison to Duschdas Noire is not off the mark. I used to love this as a child, as I truly adored that scent. But I don’t want to smell like that as a twenty-something, especially not in a perfume. Unfortunately, this shower gel experience lingers until the end. After about three to four hours, the hazelnut fades and the leather becomes noticeable, again with a minimal smokiness.
After about 7 hours, the scent is no longer perceptible. The sillage lasts at least two to three hours. The bottle is okay, nothing more and nothing less. However, I find it inappropriate, as it suggests a sporty or aquatic scent, which this Trussardi definitely is not. The scent is unisex for me and especially wearable in autumn as a daily fragrance.
Conclusion:
Would I recommend this scent? No.
Would I buy this scent again? No.
Is the scent bad? No.
I am a little annoyed by this scent. It had the potential to be good and could have easily achieved a higher rating if it weren't for that uninspired shower gel note. The composition of rum, hazelnut, and leather, along with this minimal smokiness, is really interesting. They have put obstacles in their own way here. Thus, unfortunately, the scent from Trussardi sinks into insignificance.
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Right on the mark!
Before I get to the actual scent itself, a little anecdote first.
I, as it should be, once again placed a large order of various samples in the Souk area of Parfumo.
Alongside PDM Layton, PDM Pegasus, and Creeds Virgin Island Water, which definitely needed to be ordered, my gaze also fell on Creeds Viking. I quickly checked the fragrance pyramid and the fragrance direction, and to my dismay, I found out that it is supposed to be spicy-fresh and, to top it off, has a citrusy top note. This is really not my style, as I prefer sweet, oriental scents. I thought, however, it can't be that bad, and ordered a small 2 ml sample on the side.
When the long-awaited fragrance package was delivered, I initially paid no attention to Creed Viking; the other samples were more important and interesting, so I tested them extensively. One day, curiosity got the better of me, and I had to test Creed Viking, and what can I say, I was blown away by this scent from the very first moment; it was love at first sniff, and once again it turned out that unexpected things often happen ;)
Now to the scent itself:
Viking starts surprisingly subtly citrusy, even though bergamot and lemon are in the top note. This provides a certain basic freshness. More dominant, however, are the rose, the pepper, and the mint. The latter adds a special feeling of freshness in the opening without smelling like toothpaste or anything similar. The pepper adds a certain sharpness, while the rose counterbalances this sharpness.
After about an hour, the citrus notes disappear, and the heart note of pepper, mint, and rose has free rein. It becomes clear why the scent is categorized as spicy-fresh, as the pepper provides this dominant spiciness, mint adds freshness, and rose softens everything so that the other person is not overwhelmed. At the same time, the rose also adds a small, barely perceptible floral touch.
This interplay lasts for about 5 hours.
After that, wood notes gradually become noticeable, thanks to the sandalwood and vetiver. Patchouli and lavender remain clearly in the background until the end and are hardly perceptible. The base note, and thus the conclusion, remains a woody scent that lasts another two hours before the fragrance is no longer detectable for me.
I really can't explain what fascinates me so much about this scent. Creeds Viking doesn't reinvent the wheel; when you break it down, it remains a classic scent, thanks to the pepper and mint. As one Parfumo reviewer wrote, it reminds one of the old classic barbershop shave. In my opinion, the rose brings this scent into the modern age. What I clearly like is the linear progression of the fragrance and the smooth transitions from top, heart, and base notes. It gives me a feeling of freedom and a breakout from the conformist society where everyone wants to please each other. Perhaps that’s where the name Viking comes from.
Regarding longevity, I can say that it lasts a decent 8 hours on my skin. The sillage is about 3 hours, after which it becomes close to the body. The bottle is well-made, which is expected for the price point of Creed.
Conclusion:
For me, this scent is unique because it brings this classic fragrance direction into the modern age, thus creating a balance between the old, familiar, and the new, unknown. Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on how you see it, I do not (yet) know Creed Aventus, so I was able to test Creed Viking without any bias. The scent is clearly masculine; it is neither unisex nor feminine in nature. For me, it will become my new signature scent, and it will certainly not be missing from my collection :)
I, as it should be, once again placed a large order of various samples in the Souk area of Parfumo.
Alongside PDM Layton, PDM Pegasus, and Creeds Virgin Island Water, which definitely needed to be ordered, my gaze also fell on Creeds Viking. I quickly checked the fragrance pyramid and the fragrance direction, and to my dismay, I found out that it is supposed to be spicy-fresh and, to top it off, has a citrusy top note. This is really not my style, as I prefer sweet, oriental scents. I thought, however, it can't be that bad, and ordered a small 2 ml sample on the side.
When the long-awaited fragrance package was delivered, I initially paid no attention to Creed Viking; the other samples were more important and interesting, so I tested them extensively. One day, curiosity got the better of me, and I had to test Creed Viking, and what can I say, I was blown away by this scent from the very first moment; it was love at first sniff, and once again it turned out that unexpected things often happen ;)
Now to the scent itself:
Viking starts surprisingly subtly citrusy, even though bergamot and lemon are in the top note. This provides a certain basic freshness. More dominant, however, are the rose, the pepper, and the mint. The latter adds a special feeling of freshness in the opening without smelling like toothpaste or anything similar. The pepper adds a certain sharpness, while the rose counterbalances this sharpness.
After about an hour, the citrus notes disappear, and the heart note of pepper, mint, and rose has free rein. It becomes clear why the scent is categorized as spicy-fresh, as the pepper provides this dominant spiciness, mint adds freshness, and rose softens everything so that the other person is not overwhelmed. At the same time, the rose also adds a small, barely perceptible floral touch.
This interplay lasts for about 5 hours.
After that, wood notes gradually become noticeable, thanks to the sandalwood and vetiver. Patchouli and lavender remain clearly in the background until the end and are hardly perceptible. The base note, and thus the conclusion, remains a woody scent that lasts another two hours before the fragrance is no longer detectable for me.
I really can't explain what fascinates me so much about this scent. Creeds Viking doesn't reinvent the wheel; when you break it down, it remains a classic scent, thanks to the pepper and mint. As one Parfumo reviewer wrote, it reminds one of the old classic barbershop shave. In my opinion, the rose brings this scent into the modern age. What I clearly like is the linear progression of the fragrance and the smooth transitions from top, heart, and base notes. It gives me a feeling of freedom and a breakout from the conformist society where everyone wants to please each other. Perhaps that’s where the name Viking comes from.
Regarding longevity, I can say that it lasts a decent 8 hours on my skin. The sillage is about 3 hours, after which it becomes close to the body. The bottle is well-made, which is expected for the price point of Creed.
Conclusion:
For me, this scent is unique because it brings this classic fragrance direction into the modern age, thus creating a balance between the old, familiar, and the new, unknown. Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on how you see it, I do not (yet) know Creed Aventus, so I was able to test Creed Viking without any bias. The scent is clearly masculine; it is neither unisex nor feminine in nature. For me, it will become my new signature scent, and it will certainly not be missing from my collection :)
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Lavender Field in Provence
This is my first review on Parfumo, please forgive any mistakes :)
Why Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle? Why does this fragrance deserve my first review on Parfumo?
Aside from the fact that it was the first designer fragrance I could call my own, it has achieved something that no other fragrance in my current collection has managed to do.
It evokes images in my mind's eye.
When I wear this fragrance, I find myself directly at a harbor in Provence. I can perceive expansive ships filled with oriental spices and herbs. Adjacent to it is a lush, blooming lavender field. The fresh sea air is ever-present, caressing me. I take deep breaths and enjoy.
These are the associations I have when wearing Le Mâle. I had to share them.
I must admit upfront that I do not have a trained nose that can detect the individual ingredients like some others in this community.
Le Mâle starts with a fresh, oriental aroma. At first, the lavender remains in the background. However, after about an hour, it emerges from its shadowy existence and envelops its wearer in an aura that is balm for the soul and captivates others. In the end, after about 7-8 hours, the lavender recedes again, and something earthy-grassy comes to the forefront, perhaps the amber?
Le Mâle is certainly not for everyone. But that is not what the fragrance aims for. One must truly engage with it. If you do, you will be rewarded with images of Provence, transported to another place.
Some may have a different opinion, and that is perfectly fine. Perhaps others even agree with me?
In any case, I wanted to express my passion for this fragrance, and who knows, maybe I could inspire someone, if they have not already succumbed to this olfactory experience.
Why Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle? Why does this fragrance deserve my first review on Parfumo?
Aside from the fact that it was the first designer fragrance I could call my own, it has achieved something that no other fragrance in my current collection has managed to do.
It evokes images in my mind's eye.
When I wear this fragrance, I find myself directly at a harbor in Provence. I can perceive expansive ships filled with oriental spices and herbs. Adjacent to it is a lush, blooming lavender field. The fresh sea air is ever-present, caressing me. I take deep breaths and enjoy.
These are the associations I have when wearing Le Mâle. I had to share them.
I must admit upfront that I do not have a trained nose that can detect the individual ingredients like some others in this community.
Le Mâle starts with a fresh, oriental aroma. At first, the lavender remains in the background. However, after about an hour, it emerges from its shadowy existence and envelops its wearer in an aura that is balm for the soul and captivates others. In the end, after about 7-8 hours, the lavender recedes again, and something earthy-grassy comes to the forefront, perhaps the amber?
Le Mâle is certainly not for everyone. But that is not what the fragrance aims for. One must truly engage with it. If you do, you will be rewarded with images of Provence, transported to another place.
Some may have a different opinion, and that is perfectly fine. Perhaps others even agree with me?
In any case, I wanted to express my passion for this fragrance, and who knows, maybe I could inspire someone, if they have not already succumbed to this olfactory experience.
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