Felix2109

How does the remarkable success of Mr. Harrod smell?
I would like to get to the bottom of this question today. The reason? A fragrance from Penhaligon's, which is only available in the legendary Harrods department store.

But enough of the preamble - it starts with an intense plum note accompanied by a light raspberry nuance. Oud and tobacco are also clearly perceptible right from the start. However, this is not a particularly heavy, oriental oud. Rather, subtle woody notes ensure that the fragrance is not overpowering. And thus reflects all the more the style of a British businessman.
As the woods gradually recede, bright flowers - especially jasmine - and spicy accents take center stage. But two main protagonists remain until the end: the sweet, sensual plum and the smoky, warm tobacco, reminiscent of fine pipe tobacco.

It lasts for around six hours on my skin, whereby the fragrance tends to stay close to the skin - which you would hardly expect given the intense notes. However, this makes it wonderfully wearable. Although the fragrance is officially classified as masculine, I find it absolutely unisex.

Today I would like to tell you about my experiences with the new fragrance
"Heraud" from the house of Tauer Perfumes.
This is the first fragrance in the newly founded "Elexir" range. With Heraud, Andy Tauer relies on natural raw materials, some of which are difficult to obtain and available in limited quantities. In the following, I will tell you whether this is worthwhile and whether the quality is noticeable in the fragrance.

The fragrance starts with a tart bergamot that immediately reminds me of the bergamot from Cologne du Maghreb - a note that I already loved back then. It is also convincing here and gives the fragrance a light, fresh citrus note. From the very first second, it is clear that this can only come from the hand of Andy Tauer.
What you can also smell immediately is the star of the fragrance, the double-distilled, natural cocoa from the Ivory Coast. And what can I say? It's a dream of cocoa! Not the sweet, sticky milk chocolate that we know from some other fragrances, but what cocoa really promises - noble, dark and bitter.
As the fragrance progresses, the bergamot recedes, but the cocoa remains. It is supported by dried dates, which provide a pleasant, warm sweetness without being obtrusively sticky. There are also bright floral notes in the heart note, although these tend to remain in the background and are only noticeable to me on closer inspection.
The woody-spicy note that envelops the fragrance is present from the very beginning and is carried by dry woods and cedarwood, although these are only listed in the base note. These are rounded off by powdery musk and ambergris. These woody notes play a larger role in the fragrance than initially expected, but this does not detract from it.

Overall, the typical Tauer DNA - i.e. "typical Tauer stuff" - resonates throughout the fragrance. Anyone who has tested a few fragrances from Tauer will know what I mean.

The performance is also very good. The fragrance lasts an incredible 16 hours on my skin, the sillage is pleasant without being overpowering - ideal for everyday wear.

Overall, this is an exceptionally good, spicy gourmand fragrance with strong woody notes and a pleasant sweetness that fits perfectly into the winter season. It should give pleasure regardless of gender and age.

I don't want to say much about the price - the fragrance is definitely in the upper price segment, even for niche fragrances. However, it must be emphasized that this is a "handmade fragrance" that is produced, bottled and packaged from A to Z - as Andy Tauer likes to say - in Switzerland. Such dedication to the product is not a matter of course, even in the niche sector. One small fly in the ointment for me is the change from the unique metal packaging to a cardboard box. Although this is also produced and printed in Switzerland and makes the fragrance even more sustainable - which I welcome, of course - I do miss the old packaging a little. However, as always with Tauer, the bottle is an absolute eye-catcher.

For me, Andy Tauer has created the most beautiful cocoa fragrance I have ever experienced on my fragrance journey. I can only recommend it to every gourmand and/or cocoa fan who likes it a little more woody.

Like so many other places, the Aeolian island of Salina has now been dedicated a fragrance with Malfa Walls. This island is characterized by its evergreen shrub vegetation, including thyme, juniper and sage, all of which are represented as notes in this fragrance. Mandarins and oranges also thrive on Salina, which is reflected in the fragrance pyramid. Leather, which appears in the base note, also has historical roots in the region, which was an important center of the leather trade in antiquity and the Middle Ages due to its geographical location. Of course, in strictly Catholic Italy, churches and therefore incense, which perfumer Julien Rasquinet has also incorporated into Malfa Walls, are also a must. All in all, a well thought-out concept. I am all the more irritated by the blackcurrant liqueur listed as the first note. Not because I doubt that it wouldn't taste good on Salina, but because blackcurrants thrive in a cooler climate and I don't know of any traditional blackcurrant liqueur from this region. Maybe I'm wrong on this point - I'm open to correction. Nevertheless, this note seems a little out of place to me, but in the end it's what the fragrance actually smells like that counts.

Now to the olfactory impressions:
The fragrance begins with a distinctive, leathery and smoky note. At first sniff, leather and incense dominate so much that hardly anything else is perceptible. But this changes quickly. In the first few minutes, these intense notes recede and make way for a light citrus freshness. Mandarin orange is particularly noticeable, while a subtle orange note also shines through. These citrus notes are not sweet, but rather tart and provide a refreshing note without turning it into a "fresh fragrance". In addition to the citrus notes, green accents are added by thyme and sage. A woody note is also strongly present, which is probably caused by the listed oud. However, there is no "cowshed oud" to be found here; rather, one could also name another wood without identifying it as clearly oudy. However, this is not at all disturbing, as it does not cloud the fragrance. Even for those who do not like incense, this fragrance is harmless. The incense blends gently into the leather as it progresses, without giving off the typical and often overwhelming "church aroma".
Now to the criticized blackcurrant liqueur:
With a little imagination, you can recognize a subtle berry note, but it does not play a major role in the eau de parfum. I also do not perceive a sweet or alcoholic component, which could have been caused by the liqueur.

To sum up, leather is definitely the main player in this fragrance. It shapes the course of the fragrance and combines with the juniper in the base to create a rather classic, tart and masculine scent. It is particularly suitable for spring and fall.
All in all, the Salina theme is very well realized in my opinion. Definitely a fragrance that is worth trying out!

The church bells chime... Once, twice, three times - it's time: the witching hour. Just in time for the last chime, the bottle of Ambre Nuit begins to tremble and the lid lands on the old wooden floor with a loud bang. A dark, gloomy and smoky cloud rises from the bottle. And there it is - "Esprit de Parfum" - the spirit of Ambre Nuit. Much more ambery, smoky and spicy than usual, its opening is surprisingly different. Instead of a citrusy freshness, it envelops the room with a heavy, oriental presence that leaves no corner unturned. But the further the witching hour progresses, the more the fragrance returns to its origins until it is barely recognizable at 3:59 a.m. and disappears back into its familiar bottle on the hour.

Well, admittedly, you might need a little imagination for this idea, but I hope you see it with a twinkle in your eye.

For all those who prefer things to be factual, I would like to summarize my impressions once again. The fragrance opens smoky and spicy, and the amber note is present right from the start. The opening is intense and very oriental for a Dior fragrance - a clear departure from the classic Ambre Nuit. However, after about an hour, the familiar parallels can be recognized. As the fragrance progresses, it becomes softer without completely losing its heavy, spicy note.

The sillage is strong, almost overwhelming in smaller rooms, and the longevity on my skin is also impressive at around 11 hours.

Overall, it offers an interesting alternative to the "normal" Ambre Nuit and can certainly be considered a fragrance in its own right. Which version you like better is a matter of taste. However, I can well imagine that this one will go down particularly well with us "perfume nerds", while the original Ambre Nuit will probably get better reviews from the wider public. Nevertheless, a beautiful fragrance that I would definitely classify as a cold season fragrance.

I wouldn't necessarily recommend buying it blind, but if you have the chance to try it, don't miss out!

Sniff once, sniff twice. Then take another quick sniff of coffee to clear your nose.... Okay, wait a little... a few minutes later: still amazed. Hours pass and the amazement doesn't fade, however.

That was my journey of thought with this fragrance, which amazed me so much that I now have to write a review about it.

I received the small manufacturer's sample of this fragrance as an addition to another perfume I had bought here, otherwise I would probably never have tested it. Because when I read the fragrance notes, my enthusiasm was very limited. Pineapple, davana, jasmine and peach in caramel and vanilla - didn't sound very exciting. And the bad reviews didn't exactly help to spark any euphoria either. I can usually do without flowery-sweet fragrances.

So I was all the more surprised when a spicy, woody-sweet, slightly alcoholic fragrance wafted towards me. It enveloped me and left me with a warm, boozy feeling. The complete opposite of what I had expected! No matter how often I smell it, I simply cannot explain how such a composition is created from these notes. There is no trace of a fruit mix. I even recognize a certain similarity to Baraonda by Nasomatto, even if Astratto is a little more restrained in its silage and therefore a little more suitable for closed rooms than its big brother. The fragrance lasts about eight hours on my skin.

I can well imagine that the rather mediocre rating (6.8) is due to the fact that many people expected something different and were therefore somewhat disappointed. I, on the other hand, find it very pleasant to wear and perfect for a beautiful fall day, where it comes into its own wonderfully on both women and men.
Don't be put off by the fragrance notes or reviews - try it out and be surprised!