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Art Déco
Manhattan embodies the Art Déco artistic style, which reached its peak in the 1920s of the last century. Manhattan is a homage to a bygone era when people looked forward with hope and thus, through hard work, remained future-proof. Manhattan serves as a reminder of the hedonistic and, for the time, shocking appearance of nightclubs, particularly due to their lascivious presence, which had a global impact.
Thus, Manhattan is initially an amber scent, but it also possesses modern, forward-looking elements. Rose, jasmine, and heliotrope are placed on a classic stage of vanilla and tonka bean, and a whisper of tobacco can be heard, meant to evoke memories of the nightclubs. The Chrysler Building is depicted on the front of the bottle, a representative of Art Déco that casts magical and obscure light reflections at night. Therefore, the perfume bottle remains black, while the EdP version now represents the building during the day.
So much for the remarks by Roja Dove (translated, summarized).
I find it quite exciting to look behind the scenes at how such a perfume is created. For me, it becomes clear that Dove has engaged intensively with the theme and created a perfume that comes closest to his interpretation of that time. Even if one does not agree with it, I think it is sensible to at least know what the idea behind the perfume was. This can then influence one’s own perception.
For me, Manhattan is a sweet to very sweet scent, which is well-balanced and thus radiates a pleasant scent cloud. The spiciness is personally at the limit for me; scents like Spicebomb Extreme tend to overwhelm me. On the strip, the spiciness is much more pronounced than on the skin and in everyday life, where it works well.
I am a bit cautious with sweet scents, as they can be slightly overwhelming for me; after all, one has to "stand behind" the scent for hours. The sillage, which I would prefer to rate with 7.5 points, is perfect here - in my opinion, such a value is even better than 9 or 10, which often feels like too much of a good thing for me.
Thus, the scent possesses a pleasant lightness despite its sweetness. I can faintly detect a coconut that gives a fresh kick, but as is often the case with fragrances from this house, many well-balanced materials are used, so no note stands out particularly. I find a description as (rather) sweet, vanilla, and spicy scent to be quite accurate. The development of the scent also reminds me a little of the character of Tobacco Vanille, even though the scent is entirely different. Although tobacco is only described as a "whisper" in Dove's fragrance, I find this character significant in Manhattan. The longevity is very good; after 6-7 hours, my nose had gotten used to the scent, and I thought that was it, but in the evening, after a good 10 hours, I noticed the scent again distinctly (it was warmer again), it held up well throughout the day.
If the price is around €250 for 100ml, I find the price-performance ratio quite acceptable - this roughly places it in the Xerjoff range, and it is actually still significantly below Tom Ford prices (which is a whole different topic...). I believe that Manhattan is worth a test if you are looking for a sweet-spicy, complex autumn/winter scent. I think I don’t need to mention that the bottle is a dream. Especially in the context of this scent, which has a clear reference to art, it seems more than fitting to offer a correspondingly artistic presentation.
Thus, Manhattan is initially an amber scent, but it also possesses modern, forward-looking elements. Rose, jasmine, and heliotrope are placed on a classic stage of vanilla and tonka bean, and a whisper of tobacco can be heard, meant to evoke memories of the nightclubs. The Chrysler Building is depicted on the front of the bottle, a representative of Art Déco that casts magical and obscure light reflections at night. Therefore, the perfume bottle remains black, while the EdP version now represents the building during the day.
So much for the remarks by Roja Dove (translated, summarized).
I find it quite exciting to look behind the scenes at how such a perfume is created. For me, it becomes clear that Dove has engaged intensively with the theme and created a perfume that comes closest to his interpretation of that time. Even if one does not agree with it, I think it is sensible to at least know what the idea behind the perfume was. This can then influence one’s own perception.
For me, Manhattan is a sweet to very sweet scent, which is well-balanced and thus radiates a pleasant scent cloud. The spiciness is personally at the limit for me; scents like Spicebomb Extreme tend to overwhelm me. On the strip, the spiciness is much more pronounced than on the skin and in everyday life, where it works well.
I am a bit cautious with sweet scents, as they can be slightly overwhelming for me; after all, one has to "stand behind" the scent for hours. The sillage, which I would prefer to rate with 7.5 points, is perfect here - in my opinion, such a value is even better than 9 or 10, which often feels like too much of a good thing for me.
Thus, the scent possesses a pleasant lightness despite its sweetness. I can faintly detect a coconut that gives a fresh kick, but as is often the case with fragrances from this house, many well-balanced materials are used, so no note stands out particularly. I find a description as (rather) sweet, vanilla, and spicy scent to be quite accurate. The development of the scent also reminds me a little of the character of Tobacco Vanille, even though the scent is entirely different. Although tobacco is only described as a "whisper" in Dove's fragrance, I find this character significant in Manhattan. The longevity is very good; after 6-7 hours, my nose had gotten used to the scent, and I thought that was it, but in the evening, after a good 10 hours, I noticed the scent again distinctly (it was warmer again), it held up well throughout the day.
If the price is around €250 for 100ml, I find the price-performance ratio quite acceptable - this roughly places it in the Xerjoff range, and it is actually still significantly below Tom Ford prices (which is a whole different topic...). I believe that Manhattan is worth a test if you are looking for a sweet-spicy, complex autumn/winter scent. I think I don’t need to mention that the bottle is a dream. Especially in the context of this scent, which has a clear reference to art, it seems more than fitting to offer a correspondingly artistic presentation.
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Transparent Composition
Today was another day when I enjoyed the sun's rays on the country road while driving carefree. Well, almost carefree, given the current prices. But while driving, my mind clears, and I can think about various things, enjoy the landscape, and in this relaxed weekend atmosphere, I always like to wear a perfume that I try to analyze or form an opinion about during the drive. Today it was Yu Sōn, and I thought about what elements the fragrance consists of. At this point, I must say that I have no great experience in discerning fragrance notes, but looking at the fragrance pyramid after a few hours surprised me quite a bit. In fact, I had guessed almost every note, which has never happened to me before. I will describe the thoughts I had during the drive: After spraying, the bitter, dry tea comes immediately, and I thought it might be a bit too green-bitter for my nose. So it is a tea fragrance, that was clear right away; green tea would have been my first guess because it was just so bitter and almost piercing. Well, after some time, you can clearly notice how the fragrance gains sweetness, and it was immediately clear to me that the bitter tea note was softened by an orange fruit. In fact, when I distinctly verified the fruit while smelling my arm, I had to think of mandarin; it smelled just like when you cut open mandarins, and not oranges, or blood oranges, or... it was mandarins. After a few hours, I then noticed that the fragrance is not only tea-like-orange but that there is a floral component that somehow reminded me very strongly of Soleil Brûlant by Tom Ford. However, I already knew that orange blossom absolute is used for this effect, so I thought that this floral component is also created by that. The majority of the fragrance was thus already explained, and it was a success for me to have "understood" a fragrance. Overall, a very effective, naturally smelling (in my opinion), transparent composition that smells exactly as it says on the pyramid. The sillage is good, quite strong at the beginning, but fades after about 4 hours, and after 5 hours, we have more of a skin scent. I find the price a bit too high, and I think I prefer Wulong Cha or Pomelo Sorrento a bit more when it comes to tea fragrances. But I value it at 9 points because the way the rather bitter-green opening gradually transforms into this beautiful orange blossom-mandarin direction has been very harmoniously executed.
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A Great Orange...
Fan di Fendi is one of the first fragrances I ever owned, it must have been around the time I graduated from high school, so around its release date about 10 years ago. I became aware of this scent through Parfumo, and back then I was already interested in reading the reviews, especially I remember the great title by Leimbacher "I am a fan of Fan di Fendi" which fits so nicely.
The first thing I smell when I spray it is a very beautiful, naturally occurring orange scent. It always brings me joy to spray it on, it radiates a positivity and openness for me. Hence the relatively high rating. I also find the scent to be somewhat underrated. The H/S are unfortunately not its great strengths, but for an EdT that unfolds its effect excellently in summer, that's perfectly fine. You can spray it quite generously. And then comes the second level of analysis; when you spray the scent on your arm and listen closely, you find soft leather and many spices. Which ones exactly can be read in the fragrance pyramid, but it really smells very spicy. When spraying "just like that" in the rush of everyday life, mainly this friendly orange impression remains for me.
It is simply a wonderfully composed fragrance, with these two sides of the coin, that doesn't clash but at the same time draws attention.
The sprayer is quite good, the bottle is somewhat unusual, but I like looking at it. Unfortunately, I can't remember the price anymore... back then it was a lot for me, but I didn't know anything at all except for Sun Men and a few other things. I think it was 60 or 70 or something like that. The personal connection for me is that I used the fragrance a lot so long ago (my 100ml is running low) and therefore my rating is so positive. I can recommend the fragrance to anyone who enjoys Acqua di Parma-like scents that also have this spicy twist. This treatment reminds me of the well-known Guerlains (Instant...).
The first thing I smell when I spray it is a very beautiful, naturally occurring orange scent. It always brings me joy to spray it on, it radiates a positivity and openness for me. Hence the relatively high rating. I also find the scent to be somewhat underrated. The H/S are unfortunately not its great strengths, but for an EdT that unfolds its effect excellently in summer, that's perfectly fine. You can spray it quite generously. And then comes the second level of analysis; when you spray the scent on your arm and listen closely, you find soft leather and many spices. Which ones exactly can be read in the fragrance pyramid, but it really smells very spicy. When spraying "just like that" in the rush of everyday life, mainly this friendly orange impression remains for me.
It is simply a wonderfully composed fragrance, with these two sides of the coin, that doesn't clash but at the same time draws attention.
The sprayer is quite good, the bottle is somewhat unusual, but I like looking at it. Unfortunately, I can't remember the price anymore... back then it was a lot for me, but I didn't know anything at all except for Sun Men and a few other things. I think it was 60 or 70 or something like that. The personal connection for me is that I used the fragrance a lot so long ago (my 100ml is running low) and therefore my rating is so positive. I can recommend the fragrance to anyone who enjoys Acqua di Parma-like scents that also have this spicy twist. This treatment reminds me of the well-known Guerlains (Instant...).
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SSD --- Sweet-Solid Designer
The Scent Absolute is for me an absolutely unisex fragrance that is more suitable for the
colder seasons. I really don't understand the classification as a men's fragrance, especially since the opening is truly sweet and gourmand-like.
Before I get to the description of the scent impression, it should be mentioned that Bruno Jovanovic, as a perfumer, has also created for niche brands like Frederic Malle. Unfortunately, I didn't find any other perfume on the list that I know from him; I often find it exciting to detect an individual signature.
Back to this perfume, the opening is very sweet and rather synthetic, but not piercing. The first few times I found the opening a bit too spicy and somewhat sharp, but by now I have "understood" these notes and they blend into the overall composition since I know what to expect. I smell orange in this sweetness and something cinnamon-like, gum-like. Also something apple-like. It reminds me a bit of Azzaro Wanted by Night. The sweetness smells very "designer-like" and not at all like the PdM DNA or anything like that. I think there are hardly any natural ingredients in it.
I find the top note really excellent/pleasant and it is the main argument for this fragrance. In fact, I find it quite unique; one might recognize distant similarities to SwyA or ACP. Unfortunately, I don't know the original The Scent, but that shouldn't detract from this review.
In the heart, we find Maninka fruit. What is that actually? A search only gives me results that all refer to this exact perfume. In the advertising text, it is described as a combination of "passion fruit and rum." I don't really find the scent boozy, but it does go in that direction. So if you explicitly think of rum and smell the bottle, it fits together. The Maninka fruit seems more like marketing to me; a chord is created that is supposed to trigger certain associations. This is also reinforced by the fact that the advertising text immediately explains this note with descriptions.
Vetiver is listed as the base: Here I must be honest and say I can't smell it. The scent is not green to me at all. This is also the problem with this fragrance in my opinion; I find the longevity unfortunately not very good. After about 4 hours, it's over on my skin (I specifically only sprayed on skin today; on clothing, of course, it lasts longer and the base can be smelled more). To me, the base smells like that typical designer synthetic brew, collapsing in on itself as someone else has written. I find the sillage okay; I can't specify a distance, but the scent is decently present and radiates. You can also dose it for the office, so if you're more cautious, 2 or 3 sprays are a good choice. I find the bottle very chic to look at; the design radiates strength and solidity through the accentuated lines. The vertical Boss lettering as a relief in the glass is well-known but effective. The color fits excellently with the overall composition and has a great tone. Only the sprayer is standard, not particularly precise or dosable. So far, nothing is leaking.
I think with this fragrance, you can quickly decide based on the sweet top note whether it suits you or not, as I find it quite linear. Sprayed on at the department store, and then you should relatively quickly know whether you like it or not :)
colder seasons. I really don't understand the classification as a men's fragrance, especially since the opening is truly sweet and gourmand-like.
Before I get to the description of the scent impression, it should be mentioned that Bruno Jovanovic, as a perfumer, has also created for niche brands like Frederic Malle. Unfortunately, I didn't find any other perfume on the list that I know from him; I often find it exciting to detect an individual signature.
Back to this perfume, the opening is very sweet and rather synthetic, but not piercing. The first few times I found the opening a bit too spicy and somewhat sharp, but by now I have "understood" these notes and they blend into the overall composition since I know what to expect. I smell orange in this sweetness and something cinnamon-like, gum-like. Also something apple-like. It reminds me a bit of Azzaro Wanted by Night. The sweetness smells very "designer-like" and not at all like the PdM DNA or anything like that. I think there are hardly any natural ingredients in it.
I find the top note really excellent/pleasant and it is the main argument for this fragrance. In fact, I find it quite unique; one might recognize distant similarities to SwyA or ACP. Unfortunately, I don't know the original The Scent, but that shouldn't detract from this review.
In the heart, we find Maninka fruit. What is that actually? A search only gives me results that all refer to this exact perfume. In the advertising text, it is described as a combination of "passion fruit and rum." I don't really find the scent boozy, but it does go in that direction. So if you explicitly think of rum and smell the bottle, it fits together. The Maninka fruit seems more like marketing to me; a chord is created that is supposed to trigger certain associations. This is also reinforced by the fact that the advertising text immediately explains this note with descriptions.
Vetiver is listed as the base: Here I must be honest and say I can't smell it. The scent is not green to me at all. This is also the problem with this fragrance in my opinion; I find the longevity unfortunately not very good. After about 4 hours, it's over on my skin (I specifically only sprayed on skin today; on clothing, of course, it lasts longer and the base can be smelled more). To me, the base smells like that typical designer synthetic brew, collapsing in on itself as someone else has written. I find the sillage okay; I can't specify a distance, but the scent is decently present and radiates. You can also dose it for the office, so if you're more cautious, 2 or 3 sprays are a good choice. I find the bottle very chic to look at; the design radiates strength and solidity through the accentuated lines. The vertical Boss lettering as a relief in the glass is well-known but effective. The color fits excellently with the overall composition and has a great tone. Only the sprayer is standard, not particularly precise or dosable. So far, nothing is leaking.
I think with this fragrance, you can quickly decide based on the sweet top note whether it suits you or not, as I find it quite linear. Sprayed on at the department store, and then you should relatively quickly know whether you like it or not :)
1 Comment
Schöner salziger Duft
Ich weiss nicht genau wie man Salz in ein Parfum bekommt aber hier habe ich den Eindruck am Meer zu sein, am Strand mit einem Buch in der Hand entlangzulaufen und die Meerbrise zu geniessen... Manchmal meine ich sogar bisschen Salz auf der Zunge zu haben, so wie wenn man im Meer im Urlaub baden geht und immer bisschen Salz überall kleben bleibt. Ich freue mich wie dieser Duft riecht beim Aufsprühen, er weckt Assoziationen von Urlaub und Frische. Ich finde der Duft riecht natürlich und man fühlt sich gepflegt, locker/entspannt und abenteuerlustig. Die Sillage und Haltbarkeit finde ich für Cologne in Ordnung, man sprüht dann vielleicht einfach paar mal mehr als sonst. Ich habe ~10 gesprüht und merke es dann im Büro die ersten Stunden gut, in einer sehr angenehmen Art und Weise. Also weder zu stark noch zu schwach, er begleitet wirklich nett. Kann mir vorstellen dass er dann vor allem im Sommer oder beim Sport wunderbar leicht eine kleine frische Aura schafft, so wie andere es auch schon kommentiert haben. Die Preisbewertung ist recht niedrig, ich habe 30ml für sowas wie 40 bekommen neu, das finde ich angemessen, also weder günstig noch teuer. Insgesamt kann ich das Parfum empfehlen, ich finde dass er auch von Männern getragen werden kann obwohl nur 20% Männer ihn haben. Ich glaube es hat eher mit Assoziationen zu tun ob man den Duft eher männlich oder nicht findet, aber ich kriege nur jene die ich oben geschildert habe und daher gefällt er mir echt gut.
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