FreshKatsu

When I first tested this half a year ago it was an immediate no for me. It's damp, mouldy and smells like the bottom of a 50yo linen cupboard in a boarding school. Gross.

However, half a year later something has changed. It still smells like mothball but in a more intriguing rather than outright unpleasant way. It's bitter, peppery and savoury. Not unlike cutting a capsicum that has passed its prime. But in a good way and revelatory to me. A bit like discovering that broccoli actually tastes quite good as an adult.

With that being said, I still find the performance rubbish as it basically has no longevity. But it's interesting enough that it doesn't warrant my bad initial review (statement) anymore.

I first tried this out at a little perfumery in Taiwan while travelling. There was almost no online reviews of this house so I did not have any expectation. To my surprise I found the full range very pleasant if somewhat simple & linear. Very 'natural', well balanced and easy to wear without the harshness of many contemporary designer fragrances. Reminds me of the classic Body Shop products.

Exquise is my favourite of the lineup but I'm biased towards anything with fig in it. It's fruity floral with a very very slight hint of vanilla to round it out. Fig is the dominant fruit note and it feels well supported by the sweet blackcurrant and peach/fig leaves. To my this is a fig that is only just starting to ripe, green & delicate but with less sweetness than you would expect (compared with Debaser). Overall a very pleasant and comforting scent that is average in performance.

On paper it didn't smell like much so I decided to spray on my wrist for a proper test. Gosh was that a mistake. The first sniff was so sour and acetone-ish I had to let it rest for a good while. The sourness did not dissipate but I could gradually pick out the frangipani and coconut. The frangipani feels harsh and artificial, and the coconut adds an unpleasant off milk quality to it. There's also musk & vetiver & a bunch of other stuff competing for your attention. Usually I love DS & Durga's energy and edginess, but this feels like utter chaos to me and not in a good way.

I'm not a big floral person so did not expect much from this free sample. At first sniff I was pleasantly surprised. The rose opening is polite, clean and more unisex than I expected. Then there's a wave of fruitiness (maybe berries or pear?) but it avoids developing into a saccharine cocktail that I associate with celebrity designer perfumes. Not much else happens and the rose slowly disappears into sweetness. Dry down has a hint of powder and musk. Very elegant, safe, simple but I don't imagine anyone would dislike this. Reminds me of a Jo Malone perfume but with more staying power.

According to Wikipedia, phloem is the plant tissue that transports the organic compounds made during photosynthesis to the rest of the plant. In trees, the phloem is the innermost layer of the bark. It is an excellent name fit for this earthy and aromatic fragrance. The opening is deeply savoury, conjuring up a culinary concoction of red fruits, sesame and foraged herbs. I couldn't spot the oyster note but there's definitely a saline element to it. It smells almost like fruity cumin to me. An hour later the florals start to shine while the saltiness and red fruits linger on like residue cooking smell. The overall effect feels much like the function of phloem, nourishing and guiding nutrients to where is it needed for growth. It smells of life itself.