Jazzbob

Gourmands and fragrances with a strong vanilla/tone bean base are usually not my concern. I just can't do anything with this sticky heavy sweetness - sometimes it makes me sick. I also rarely have a craving for sweets when I'm eating. But since Uden only falls into this category to a limited extent and has a fresh citrus note in contrast to the base, I simply had to test it. XerJoff has become my favourite (niche) brand.

The start has it all, because this is absolutely refreshingly cool and characterized by an acidic, juicy lemon. This combination lasts about two hours, although it gets weaker with time and the other side of Uden becomes dominant. Right from the start, the vanilla, which is accompanied by a slight sweetness, resonates in the background. In the further course a slight rum note and coffee are at least to be guessed, however I would estimate the two as less conspicuous. However, there is something attractive and sensual about the whole mixture. The musk probably prevents Uden from drifting in a too dense, gourmand direction. I would not describe the scent as particularly woody - if, then only towards the base.

Some will see it differently, but for me the first two to three hours are really the best part of Uden. Afterwards, the scent loses its balance a little and no longer appears so multi-faceted, because I perceive the vanilla and a certain, still bearable sweetness very strongly, in contrast to the rest. In the long run this basic chord could become a bit too strenuous for me, but now and then I feel like such scents. Uden is definitely suitable for many situations in life - especially for going out, as he is already a'crowdpleaser', which should be well received in all age groups.

A major dilemma of fresh and especially of citric fragrances is their usually limited shelf life. Either you get along with it and have to spray more often, or you compromise that the fragrance develops in a completely different direction. Or one wears Nio, because this manages to maintain a citrus-green aura for a few hours without weakening the projection.

DaveGahan101 has already said a lot about the fragrance itself with which I fully agree. Nio is not a playful perfume, associated with special emotions or sensuality, but one that conveys seriousness and cleanliness. These qualities are, of course, particularly due to the long dominating neroli note, which has the said hesperidic and green properties. The spices are finely woven here, so that the pepper does not scratch the nose, but only adds a nuance of pungency. I can still see nutmeg at its best here and cardamom is just as natural and absolutely unsweet to guess. Usually I don't like a soapy note, but in XerJoff's creation, fortunately, it's only slightly present. Because only dry arranged woods are noticeable in the base, which in my opinion convey an almost too uncompromising impression. This bitterness certainly benefits the wearer at high temperatures, but a little more heat would have made Nio better for me.

Besides this point of criticism, I would only criticize the price, which is set rather high for a fragrance that I would rather classify as office-suitable, masculine. The shelf life is ideal (a good eight hours), with only the woody base and some spice remaining in the last few hours. Despite the completely missing sweetness and the clearly bright orientation of the fragrance it can also convince in the external effect. And that makes Nio more than just a summer scent. If you are tired of the heavy scents in the cold seasons, this is the best way to relax.

Far too seldom do I have this wow effect when I smell a perfume for the first time, which is only triggered when a fragrance appears to be of particularly high quality, complex and surprising. This was the case with Nawab of Oudh. Something really comparable I have not yet been able to test - that much is certain.

As a matter of principle, I always spray on a paper strip first, which often gives me an impression that deviates from the skin test. In this case, it quickly became clear to me that the fresh top note, which I clearly perceived on paper, is less noticeable on the skin. Nevertheless, Geza Schön's creation has a strong form of brightness, which initially has an almost ethereal character. In the first minutes, many different scents meet: Besides the aforementioned bright, diffuse note, it is above all a lot of spice that gives Nawab of Oudh its oriental charisma. I can filter out the smell of pimento grains, as well as something peppery, but otherwise, without looking at the notes, it is difficult to name anything clearly. A discreet bitter-green facet is only noticeable fleetingly, whereas the orange and light-floral notes, which for me do not match the typical rose scent, noticeably come to the fore.

Actually, I like almost every form of citrus note, as long as it is accompanied by a certain freshness - from strong lemony to bitter green - but orange tends in a fruity-sweet direction, which I usually don't like. According to the top note, Nawab of Oudh is relatively strongly influenced by this orange sweetness and the cinnamon that is now added creates a rather Christmassy impression. In this respect, I can understand the comparison with Chanel's Égoïste mentioned here in a statement, because it also has a cinnamon-fruit combination (apple instead of orange), discreet light floral notes and a warm woody base. I can't perceive Oud here at any time. In general, it takes quite a while until I would assign the category 'woody'. In any case, the transparency and airiness created by the use of aldehydes, probably Iso-E-Super, and other ingredients, makes something woody shine through again and again. But only when the spices and orange have calmed down a little does a dreamlike beautiful note reveal itself, which reminds me of sandalwood. Thus Nawab of Oudh has for me a more than conciliatory conclusion, because with the stronger woodiness the sweetness is dimmed. In this last section the rose also appears and gives the basic chord an even softer character.

Nawab of Oudh keeps on your skin for a long time, but with time you get the impression that the scent only radiates close to your skin. However, this is due to the habituation, because already several times when I entered my living room, I could feel only from the small perfume sample in the air this wonderful warm wooden chord. I believe that due to the transparency and lightness typical for many of Geza Schön's creations, the wearer leaves behind a less violent, dense veil of scent, which can nevertheless be perceived very well, because the scent adheres less to the body.

From Ormonde Jayne I was able to test six fragrances including this one so far and even if there was none that I wanted to buy in the end, they all convinced me in terms of quality. Nawab of Oudh is too spicy and sweet for me, especially in the middle section of its scent, but nevertheless I would absolutely recommend a test to expand your own scent horizon.

Most of us have probably already spent several holidays in some Mediterranean region and gained different impressions, which more or less correspond to a certain cliché image: The landscape alternates between rocky coastlines and sandy beaches, dry wasteland, sparse herbs and shrubs, olive/lemon groves and palm trees. Everything is perfect for creating a perfume inspired by it.

In fact, Eau du Levant reminds me more of those landscapes than of the sea itself, because I wouldn't describe this fragrance as classic-aquatic and I miss the clear freshness associated with it. Instead, I immediately associate the prelude with lemonade, because at first it smells mainly of ripe citrus fruits, discreetly flanked by basil. In the background, the warm, spicy foundation is also perceptible; floral notes rather less. Only when the Hesperides retreat a little, I get an idea of the flowery notes, which are generally very reserved (for my nose). At best the rather full, fruity character of the osmanthus, as well as its leathery facet, characterizes Geza Schöns creation. In addition, it becomes apparent that the aquatic side of the fragrance appears here in the form of a slightly salty, algal note. Unfortunately, I find the latter (especially directly on the skin) generally unpleasant and almost fishy. But our holiday impressions are also often marked by unpleasant impressions, like garbage and stuffy (harbour) air... The fragrance ends with familiar, but no less appealing, warm woody notes.

I like the majority of Eau du Levant very much and it keeps solid on the skin, with slightly higher temperatures bringing the fragrance back to life - some summery perfumes need that. A nice concept of combining rather light ethereal notes with warmth is found here, although I consider this to be much more skilfully implemented in XerJoff's Fars and Creeds Royal Oud. And so that I would like to possess a fragrance, it must please in every situation, which is not given here because of the algal note in immediate skin proximity.

Mint and citrus notes, plus ginger and rose geranium - that reads like the ultimate fresh scent! Even the name "Mint & Tonic" promises cool and bitter nuances, as in many a summer cocktail. Everything to my taste, I thought to myself and waited anxiously for the bottle I had ordered for a sharing. This - well-shaped, made of solid glass and fitted with a metal cap - arrived in a simple and pretty packaging. The first impression counts and Atkinsons knows how to please (optically and haptically)

The first sprayer, on the other hand, was somewhat sobering. Fresh, citrusy and green, Mint & Tonic does indeed have a cooling effect, but less than expected. The realistic bitterness that grapefruit and lime bring along with their sour characteristics is pleasing, but unfortunately the mint goes a bit under so that I would rather speak of a diffuse green note. I can't see much development at first, because apart from the very easily perceptible rose geranium, which fits into the bright, friendly picture, there is no trace of ginger with its genuine pungency. After three or four hours, when I first wore it, I thought that the fragrance would gradually fade away. But finally a warm, spicy and woody base comes out, which in my opinion projects a little more strongly again.

However, this is still too euphemistically formulated, because Mint & Tonic seems to me to be extremely discreet. An often used euphemism in this context is the term 'office scent', which usually means that it doesn't offend, but is usually only worn at work. And so I see Mint & Tonic as a nice scent that you can wear with a clear conscience, but that disappears from your memory just as quickly. In this genre - citric, green, fresh, dry-spicy - I consider XerJoff's Nio to be a much better alternative, although its price is not necessarily justified. Although I really like mint in the flesh, finding the right perfume remains a difficult matter, and I prefer to have tonic in an alcoholic cold drink. Cheers!