Junkey
Reviews
Junkey
A Classic Evolved
Everything evolves.
Not only is it in the nature of consumers to seek newer, more fulfilling versions of classics we once adored, but also - stay with me on this - to probe their darker sides. In my defense, James Bond evolved from a swashbuckling, carefree and summery character to a more reserved, emotionally invested and wintery one. As did superhero films, once an exhibition of flash and bang, now an exploration of guilt and redemption. Cyclical or otherwise, one can expect with a certain ominousness a darker turn of character that flips open a new chapter in our experience of the classic.
When I first tried the original Le Male in the '00s, I was hit by Francis Kurkdjian's playful mix strongly reminiscent of youth, extroversion and the '90s. A delicate mint and a potent vanilla make it an undeniable classic.
The line appears to have evolved from the summery cheer of the original Le Male into a cozy radiance and baked-pie-sweet embrace of the new Le Parfum. The sweeter and darker envelope around the original DNA is, no doubt, in keeping with recent trends among fragrance releases. The opening, which presents the spicy accords in full thrust, is quite something to behold when taken in conjunction with the familiar lavender/vanilla DNA. Such a creation isn't easy to pull off to the extent of becoming yet another popular sensation, considering the olfactory contrast between lavender/mint and vanilla/iris.
Simply put -
Le Parfum = Le Male + Spice (pepper, cardamom) + Sweetness (vanilla)
No doubt, Le Parfum is more suited for cooler times and is a better fit than the original for nights out and/or clubbing. What the new sibling loses in comparison, is the versatility of the original, which allowed the latter to shine regardless of occasion or temperature. That said, few fragrances out there offer better value, longevity and appeal at a less-than-Amouage price point!
Not only is it in the nature of consumers to seek newer, more fulfilling versions of classics we once adored, but also - stay with me on this - to probe their darker sides. In my defense, James Bond evolved from a swashbuckling, carefree and summery character to a more reserved, emotionally invested and wintery one. As did superhero films, once an exhibition of flash and bang, now an exploration of guilt and redemption. Cyclical or otherwise, one can expect with a certain ominousness a darker turn of character that flips open a new chapter in our experience of the classic.
When I first tried the original Le Male in the '00s, I was hit by Francis Kurkdjian's playful mix strongly reminiscent of youth, extroversion and the '90s. A delicate mint and a potent vanilla make it an undeniable classic.
The line appears to have evolved from the summery cheer of the original Le Male into a cozy radiance and baked-pie-sweet embrace of the new Le Parfum. The sweeter and darker envelope around the original DNA is, no doubt, in keeping with recent trends among fragrance releases. The opening, which presents the spicy accords in full thrust, is quite something to behold when taken in conjunction with the familiar lavender/vanilla DNA. Such a creation isn't easy to pull off to the extent of becoming yet another popular sensation, considering the olfactory contrast between lavender/mint and vanilla/iris.
Simply put -
Le Parfum = Le Male + Spice (pepper, cardamom) + Sweetness (vanilla)
No doubt, Le Parfum is more suited for cooler times and is a better fit than the original for nights out and/or clubbing. What the new sibling loses in comparison, is the versatility of the original, which allowed the latter to shine regardless of occasion or temperature. That said, few fragrances out there offer better value, longevity and appeal at a less-than-Amouage price point!
Modern Masculine Masterpiece
Subjective individual preferences aside, you might agree that lavender and amber could rank among the few greatest fragrance notes of all time. To the great credit of Antoine Maisondieu, Tom Ford's Beau de Jour gives these two fantabulous notes a vast canvas on which to paint an illustrious image.
Beau de Jour pulls off very skillfully something that a lot of fragrances aspire to but can't always achieve: being classic yet modern, subtle yet impressive.
As the notes suggest, it opens with a burst of vintage barbershop lavender which is made more modern by the mild sweetness from the base notes. Green, fresh and masculine, as fougeres come. I do also get a little bit of cardamom, although I don't read it on the notes listed here. The high-quality ingredients and smooth cameos from patchouli and basil offer a vibe that has classy written all over it.
To me, the best part of the fragrance is that transition from lavender to amber where the latter opens up over time to a wonderfully creative effect. At which point it extinguishes any remaining doubts about whether this fragrance is 'old school'.
A note of appreciation for the versatility of this scent as it works all year round, really. Particularly good for spring and fall. Not to mention suitability to a wide variety of occasions from work to dates.
Beau de Jour pulls off very skillfully something that a lot of fragrances aspire to but can't always achieve: being classic yet modern, subtle yet impressive.
As the notes suggest, it opens with a burst of vintage barbershop lavender which is made more modern by the mild sweetness from the base notes. Green, fresh and masculine, as fougeres come. I do also get a little bit of cardamom, although I don't read it on the notes listed here. The high-quality ingredients and smooth cameos from patchouli and basil offer a vibe that has classy written all over it.
To me, the best part of the fragrance is that transition from lavender to amber where the latter opens up over time to a wonderfully creative effect. At which point it extinguishes any remaining doubts about whether this fragrance is 'old school'.
A note of appreciation for the versatility of this scent as it works all year round, really. Particularly good for spring and fall. Not to mention suitability to a wide variety of occasions from work to dates.
