Leimbacher

Leimbacher

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Ripe and Shallow?
“The One” for Men by D&G remains one of the key fragrances in my “nose training” and will likely forever be close to my olfactory heart. From today’s perspective, it doesn’t come across as nearly as flashy as, say, the gold bar I discovered around the same time, maybe a bit earlier. However, I only partially engage with this ongoing comprehensive “hyper-flankering” in the industry, even for my favorites; it’s annoying and fundamentally just creates uncertainty - yet for the perfume version of this modern classic, I found no detours…

“The One for Men” (Parfum) is, for me, a pleasant, stylish companion that doesn’t buy into the classic DNA of its fragrance family any more than it has to. Shock service as per regulations. Ambient and well-tempered. At first, it’s still quite clear that it can only be “The One (For Men).” Orange cream kisses the brightest, sweetest tobacco. It’s delicious, it’s attractive, it remains a timeless classic. In this “Parfum version,” it might even be a bit dimmer, more compact, and more mature than before. At the beginning, it should be emphasized. On the other hand, I still have the feeling and possibly the illusion that I have never smelled “The One for Men” as delicious, strong, and clear as around early 2009 shortly after its release. But I don’t even want to start on reformulations in addition to the flanker madness. This “Parfum” certainly does its job well, at least in the top note. Very well, in fact. If you’re into the DNA, you definitely get your money’s worth here, along with a few “Yummy!” and “Mmmmh!” But then a dilemma begins to emerge in places. “The One for Men” (Parfum) starts to dilute, blur, and become somewhat arbitrary. It hardly develops anymore. And then it almost arrives somewhere in the no-man's-land of masculine shower gel “treats,” making you almost wonder what kind of perfume you’re wearing today… And thus, this strongly starting and even more strongly diminishing perfume variant somewhat misses its purpose and, at times, is even a case of “improvement gone wrong”… What a shame. Not bad - but unnecessary for me.

Bottle: I really like this chestnut brown!
Sillage: Subtle & crystal clear, more of a skin scent
Longevity: 8+ hours, which is significantly above most other “The Ones”

Conclusion: A solid, concentrated, but ultimately still falling short of (high) expectations perfume version of an exceptional fragrance and a favorite of mine. Good - but demands and wishes are higher!
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Almost too delicious for everyday use...
"White" by Lalique had a grand effect on me back then, and I still love to smell it with its pencil-like citrus to transport myself back to my early days in our olfactory passion. Strange that I didn't take the time to get "White In Black" under my nose sooner. Now I've made up for that and put it straight into the cabinet - luckily it's a really beautiful scent!

Nothing here is truly black; it leans more towards Lalique's plummy "Hommage a L'Homme," creamy-gourmand - but what does a perfume title or bottle color even mean these days?! I can best describe "White In Black" as a balsamic-peppery vanilla scent that plays in a league far above its price (I paid about €30 for 100 ml). Wonderful men's vanilla that melts away. I don't know if I can or want to smell so delicious and lovely every day. But it is indeed delightful. Great blend, as is usually the case with Lalique. Nothing here scratches; everything blends together perfectly. A cardamom compendium. A vanilla tasting. No pepper brute.

Bottle: Lalique excels here
Sillage: stronger than one might think... Compliment magnet.
Longevity: 7-9 hours, very decent, no need for reapplication

Conclusion: delicious vanilla charmer - never sticky, never sharp, zero unpleasantness. A great scent - although I still prefer the regular "White" by Lalique and feel that the pencil-like DNA is somewhat missing here...
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Practical Sludge
"Bentley for Men Black" has a wonderfully heavy bottle and looks great on the shelf, it stands out - if only that were also somewhat true for the content or scent...

I like many of the Bentley fragrances; they often have a light tipsiness that gives them a catchy DNA and unique characteristics. But unfortunately, these are completely absent on my skin in the "Black Edition." It's nice - but never a knockout. Not even close. This library dustiness comes off rather scratchy and weak. The wood collection is indefinable. Pepper is present - but it never has any punch. And I clearly miss distinctions and nuances, highlights, and a clear scent language. Not smoky enough, not potent enough, not high-quality enough. It’s a solid all-rounder, soft and cozy. But unfortunately, it’s never good enough for me to stay longer in my collection or to be truly cherished by me. I had a different experience with some of the other Bentleys. This "special edition" could have easily stayed overseas for me. However, I’m glad it finds appeal with others. A bit of "Fahrenheit" ordered from Wish. And that shouldn't be Bentley's standard.

Bottle: black, strong, beautiful
Sillage: average scent trail
Longevity: 6-8 hours - also here it performs well on average

Conclusion: nice, but never striking papyrus all-rounder between mediocrity and effectiveness. Okay - but I miss unique features, edge, and courage.
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The apple doesn't fall far from the bar table
Right off the bat, I don't know "Greenley" by PdM well enough to make solid comparisons, except that both go in the same apple-creamy direction and are lovely fragrances. But who has the edge (my guess, not surprisingly: the PdM), I won't rush to a decision just yet. As for "Nexa Immortal": it doesn't scratch, it doesn't bother, it fits!

Okay, there are a few more words to say about this fruity-silky apple from the Emirates. From its oily-reflective glass to its immense versatility to its hissing cashmere apple aura. The price-performance ratio is quite impressive here. The packaging and the cardboard box are just as noteworthy. But - and I'm not exactly sure if there's a lot of knowledge, prejudice, and imagination involved - I just can't shake this "UAE" impression. It's never completely in "dupe" territory. Especially since, as mentioned, I'm not well acquainted with "Greenley." But I can't completely dismiss it; for that last bit of enthusiasm and uniqueness, I can't let it go. So, it remains super difficult for such brands and perfumes to break into high rating levels with me. "Nexa Immortal" is definitely a good fragrance, though. It also reminds me of a slightly sharper version of "Boss Bottled" and its applications.

Bottle: playful from the glass to the cap, super elaborate for the price, but also a bit kitschy...
Sillage: cashmere-soft, but still present
Longevity: 8 hours and more - such Oriental "copies" usually don't skimp...

Conclusion: a beautifully wearable and (without comparisons!) valuable apple freshie... and especially with apples, that's not olfactorily easy at all! Between freshly washed white laundry and apple spritzer.
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Lime Suffragette Scare
Azzaro continues to consistently release variations of "Azzaro Pour Homme" - this one is a summery, shower gel-like variation of their DNA with plenty of lime and little confetti...

This "Cologne Intense" is visually striking and very easy to wear, and as a 90s kid, it's also very easy to like. The lime zings, the lavender soothes, it's slightly scratchy but never unpleasant. Shower gel-like but never cheap. With its unabashed 90s aura, it currently stands out from the jungle of fresh men’s fragrances. Not exotic, but honestly old-school. Spring-fresh and masculine. Particularly suitable after sports and after showering. So if you need something for the locker room at the gym - this is closer to Marky Mark than to Mr. Wahlberg...

Bottle: great color gradient, fits well in my (large) hand
Sillage: soft and zinging
Longevity: 4-5 hours - doesn’t heal any wounds...

Conclusion: pleasant and bittersweet lime freshie with solid 90s vibes and Azzaro aura. Good!
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