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Neutral is the new cool
We have a juicy, clean, water-ironed and completely relaxed "all-timer" and signature fragrance from Jil Sander here - between steam irons, industrial washing machines and office bingo. Extraordinarily ordinary.
Jil Sander as a brand has always been somewhat androgynous, different, neutral, discreet, minimalist. At least in my head. Very German - and that should be understood as a compliment. Useful, hard-working, reserved, decent. And her "Softly", which was poised to become her latest (women's) flagship in 2017, is the ideal embodiment of these thoughts, prejudices and DNA. Soft, humanizing, texturally rich and bright. Embracing, lulling. Flawless yet human. Or at least A.I. with heart and soul. Digital age meets housewife virtues. A genuine musk fragrance that could also appear in many niche line-ups. Almost medically clean. Switzerland as a perfume. Pleasant. Welcome. Consistently emotionless. Completely without fire in the ass - and proud of this stiffness. And soap. And class. Never has snootiness had a sweeter, shyer smile on its lips. Ennui perfected. Almost frivolous floral neutrality.
Flacon: minimalist, futuristic, great
Sillage: smart to delicate
Longevity: 5 hours, rather less
Conclusion: a beautiful, colorless, neutral, all-rounder for everyone and every time and every mood. Such extreme indifference, paleness and neutrality is also an art.
Jil Sander as a brand has always been somewhat androgynous, different, neutral, discreet, minimalist. At least in my head. Very German - and that should be understood as a compliment. Useful, hard-working, reserved, decent. And her "Softly", which was poised to become her latest (women's) flagship in 2017, is the ideal embodiment of these thoughts, prejudices and DNA. Soft, humanizing, texturally rich and bright. Embracing, lulling. Flawless yet human. Or at least A.I. with heart and soul. Digital age meets housewife virtues. A genuine musk fragrance that could also appear in many niche line-ups. Almost medically clean. Switzerland as a perfume. Pleasant. Welcome. Consistently emotionless. Completely without fire in the ass - and proud of this stiffness. And soap. And class. Never has snootiness had a sweeter, shyer smile on its lips. Ennui perfected. Almost frivolous floral neutrality.
Flacon: minimalist, futuristic, great
Sillage: smart to delicate
Longevity: 5 hours, rather less
Conclusion: a beautiful, colorless, neutral, all-rounder for everyone and every time and every mood. Such extreme indifference, paleness and neutrality is also an art.
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Tasty or cheap?
At least this Bershka doesn't disguise what it is... a very young, synthetic gourmand with fruit curd, chocolate pudding and rose toxin!
"Gourmand" embodies or "evaporates" the spirit of Bershka very well - which unfortunately is not only a compliment. Cheap, young, sweet, affordable. Not the real deal. The imitation. The shortcut. For pocket money. A lot of things seem Spanish here. And especially in the gourmand genre, you can quickly come across as muddy and bad in the cheap segment - and yes, "gourmand" has such nasty phases. Without directly becoming a real mood depressant and headache perfume. But often enough it's just too close. Hairspray hurricane meets hollow bullet chewing gum. Whether it's the sugar in the pudding or the flowers by the pond - everything here is holodecky and artificial, intrusive and somehow so bright that you keep your distance. A colorful praline that just wants to play - but can really get on your nerves...
Flacon: simple and not very pretty
Sillage: strong, pungent, stin....
Longevity: 8 hours with the prospect of puffballs
Conclusion: a very gaudy neon gourmand without any real style, class or taste. Between gym and curfew. Migraine alert!
"Gourmand" embodies or "evaporates" the spirit of Bershka very well - which unfortunately is not only a compliment. Cheap, young, sweet, affordable. Not the real deal. The imitation. The shortcut. For pocket money. A lot of things seem Spanish here. And especially in the gourmand genre, you can quickly come across as muddy and bad in the cheap segment - and yes, "gourmand" has such nasty phases. Without directly becoming a real mood depressant and headache perfume. But often enough it's just too close. Hairspray hurricane meets hollow bullet chewing gum. Whether it's the sugar in the pudding or the flowers by the pond - everything here is holodecky and artificial, intrusive and somehow so bright that you keep your distance. A colorful praline that just wants to play - but can really get on your nerves...
Flacon: simple and not very pretty
Sillage: strong, pungent, stin....
Longevity: 8 hours with the prospect of puffballs
Conclusion: a very gaudy neon gourmand without any real style, class or taste. Between gym and curfew. Migraine alert!
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The evil woman and seductress
"Malafemmena" is a very chocolatey, voluminous, distinctly feminine and busty fragrance. Rosy, seductive, thick, viscous. A diva, no question. But one with her heart in the right place... at least I hope so!
She is complicated and has curves, curves, flesh in all the right places. "Malafemmena" is a perfume with a clear migraine risk. Please dose carefully! Not quite mine. Very strong, very tough, very self-confident. Delicately bitter, sensual, dominant, anything but matter-of-fact. An emotional fragrance. A fragrance like a walking décolleté. Breaker, doer. Exactly the wrong fragrance for a midsummer's day like this. Sultry, sultry, sweaty. Humanizing and madame'esque. Between soaring and hellish. Between pillow and bed of needles. Between ecstasy and castration. Between bathing in the crowd and bathing in a jam.
Flacon: the deep red color fits well
Sillage: overly clear, a hummer
Longevity: 10 hours and much more - hardly comes off the skin...
Conclusion: the horny countess of ratty rose chocolate... biting, bathing and bloody!
She is complicated and has curves, curves, flesh in all the right places. "Malafemmena" is a perfume with a clear migraine risk. Please dose carefully! Not quite mine. Very strong, very tough, very self-confident. Delicately bitter, sensual, dominant, anything but matter-of-fact. An emotional fragrance. A fragrance like a walking décolleté. Breaker, doer. Exactly the wrong fragrance for a midsummer's day like this. Sultry, sultry, sweaty. Humanizing and madame'esque. Between soaring and hellish. Between pillow and bed of needles. Between ecstasy and castration. Between bathing in the crowd and bathing in a jam.
Flacon: the deep red color fits well
Sillage: overly clear, a hummer
Longevity: 10 hours and much more - hardly comes off the skin...
Conclusion: the horny countess of ratty rose chocolate... biting, bathing and bloody!
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The summer air offers more than just citrus!
We have an incredible Ormonde Jayne highlight here... Tobacco light, airy shimmer, summery fruitiness. A dream fragrance. Especially good. Sometimes you just have to use superlatives!
"Montabaco Verano" is a fragrance that took my breath away. I have rarely had such a palpitating heart and tingling nose. And not because of its strength or power - but simply because it is so beautiful! I think this is my new favorite from OJ - and the brand has some great things in store. But "Montabaco Verano" outshines everything. And again: not with potency or obtrusiveness - but with pure elegance and beauty. Perfection in simplicity. Sunny grapefruit meets fluffy, airy shimmering and flirting. A little (orange) tea, a lot of understatement and inner peace. Plus a leathery-tobacco backbone - very light and minimalist, transparent and elegant - that even Creed in top form has to hide behind. It simply doesn't get much better than this. Anyone who walks around with this signature has made it - in terms of taste, mentally and probably also in life... You have to smell it. You can almost only fall in love.
Flacon: blue and great
Sillage: not delicate, not harsh, rather smart
Longevity: very solid 7-8 hours for such a summer beauty
Conclusion: one of the most special and yet catchiest summer fragrances since the turn of the millennium... Excitingly beautiful! Tobacco and dry air... incredibly fine! Insider tips hardly come more successful.
"Montabaco Verano" is a fragrance that took my breath away. I have rarely had such a palpitating heart and tingling nose. And not because of its strength or power - but simply because it is so beautiful! I think this is my new favorite from OJ - and the brand has some great things in store. But "Montabaco Verano" outshines everything. And again: not with potency or obtrusiveness - but with pure elegance and beauty. Perfection in simplicity. Sunny grapefruit meets fluffy, airy shimmering and flirting. A little (orange) tea, a lot of understatement and inner peace. Plus a leathery-tobacco backbone - very light and minimalist, transparent and elegant - that even Creed in top form has to hide behind. It simply doesn't get much better than this. Anyone who walks around with this signature has made it - in terms of taste, mentally and probably also in life... You have to smell it. You can almost only fall in love.
Flacon: blue and great
Sillage: not delicate, not harsh, rather smart
Longevity: very solid 7-8 hours for such a summer beauty
Conclusion: one of the most special and yet catchiest summer fragrances since the turn of the millennium... Excitingly beautiful! Tobacco and dry air... incredibly fine! Insider tips hardly come more successful.
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Wheat whiskey bundle of joy
With the name "Old Fashioned", I was perhaps expecting a fougere or vetiver, but not such a sweet, palatable gourmand... But I probably just didn't have the famous cocktail of the same name on my screen, which is much closer to the whole thing. As a whiskey fan, I should try it again...
In any case, Kilian's "Old Fashioned" is a juicy hit. The top note in particular is a granite, boozy and bombastic. Whiskey, cakey vibes, heavy yeast, dessert nails with heads. And burst buttons. Kilian doesn't let himself get carried away. It's catchy, it's aggressive, in your face, it might even catch some people off guard and scare them off. Sugary, rich in texture, imaginative. Head cinema at full steam. Between chocolate factory and whiskey barrel, between cocktail bar and leather case, between pirate prose and pony farm. Hay, zero shyness. Beefy, brute, you have to be careful that nobody thinks you have a flag. The sweetest and most luxurious flag ever. Viscous and completely niche. Even more drastic and full of steam than 99% of the Tom Ford line up. Truly a balsamic little bundle. Creme brûlée champion.
Flacon: big, thick, chic
Sillage: overly clear
Longevity: 10 hours upwards
Conclusion: an aperitif and dessert hit of the most gourmand variety. Between whiskey, cake, top hat and aftershave. Not at all old-fashioned.
In any case, Kilian's "Old Fashioned" is a juicy hit. The top note in particular is a granite, boozy and bombastic. Whiskey, cakey vibes, heavy yeast, dessert nails with heads. And burst buttons. Kilian doesn't let himself get carried away. It's catchy, it's aggressive, in your face, it might even catch some people off guard and scare them off. Sugary, rich in texture, imaginative. Head cinema at full steam. Between chocolate factory and whiskey barrel, between cocktail bar and leather case, between pirate prose and pony farm. Hay, zero shyness. Beefy, brute, you have to be careful that nobody thinks you have a flag. The sweetest and most luxurious flag ever. Viscous and completely niche. Even more drastic and full of steam than 99% of the Tom Ford line up. Truly a balsamic little bundle. Creme brûlée champion.
Flacon: big, thick, chic
Sillage: overly clear
Longevity: 10 hours upwards
Conclusion: an aperitif and dessert hit of the most gourmand variety. Between whiskey, cake, top hat and aftershave. Not at all old-fashioned.
