When 'clean' is not boring: scents for an esthétique

'Uninspiring', 'easily forgettable', 'lacklustre' and 'superficial'... these words describe what I feel when I sample fragrances colloquially grouped under the umbrella of 'clean' scents. In this blog post, I would like to propose to those who may have the same falterings, that 'clean' scents do not have to be boring and soulless. They may express flair and imagination... within limits.

Here, I offer four categories of Western fragrances that I have gotten my nose on, and would term as appropriate to be considered as being clean. In each category, I will discuss three perfumes that have been most memorable to me. I invite you to share your experiences with these and others you have experienced.

I) When clean is feminine and polished, the world goes round a jolie white flower: I find that some white floral leaning fragrances carry themselves in such a regal way that the wearer and those fortunate to gain a sniff, feel an atmosphere of calm and cleanliness. Many fragrances I have smelt could fit the bill, but three that will always be memorable to me are Dior's J'adore, Cacharel's Noa, and Estée Lauder's Modern Muse. It is no surprise that these perfumes have been around for a while and I suspect, will continue to be so.

II) When clean comes with a woody edge, all the boys and girls sigh 'Ahh'. Ahh indeed to sultry drydowns of powder and wood that feel airy and clean, rather than dark and heavy. This category requires the most delicate of balances- too much of a heavy hand and it tips away from being clean. Three formulations that do this well to my spiracles are Hermès' L'Ambre des Merveilles, Versace's Eros pour femme, and Burberry's Brit Rhythm for her.

III) When clean is earthy, not dirty, chic becomes the name of the game. There is a certain occidentalism to a patchouli that comes off as cotton white, clean yet earthy and almost airy. This patchouli narrowly escapes the label of deep and dirty to become endearing and delightful on skin. It is dressed often by white florals. When I think of this category, I imagine a woman who is exclusively dressed by Celine. In Van Cleef & Arpels' Patchouli Blanc, Chanel's Chance EDP, and Narciso Rodriguez's Narciso Rodriguez for her EDT, I find this such mastery of chic and modern.

IV) When clean could be a gentleman, then unisex is not far off. I find this class of fragrance subjective, hence limiting. Lavender, basil, cedarwood, green tea, bergamot, oakmoss, lily of the valley, vetiver... these notes could be put together to arrive at a clean that is perfect for both sexes. However, the end product does not always fit the bill. In Cerruti 1881 Série Limitée for men, Bvlgari's Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert, and Hermès' Le Jardin de Monsieur Li, I experienced an aura of clean that is parfois unisex. But there is one thing for certain about this class of clean fragrances- they behave with politesse and courtoisie. They cannot offend.

That's all. Any thoughts?

Photos of Modern Muse sourced from superdrug.com, L'Ambre des Merveilles from hermes.com, L'Ambre des Merveilles from escentual.com and Le Jardin de Monsieur Li from hermes.com