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Expressionist Lagoon
Always on the lookout for a practical and fresh scent that is neither boring nor lemony, I eventually passed by the Montale shelf.
I had never really paid much attention to the brand, perhaps due to the sheer number of fragrances and the central theme of Oud - not for me! However, the names of the fragrances made it easy to identify potential summer and office-appropriate candidates, and so I ultimately arrived at Aoud Lagoon.
The first few minutes are quite intense - it smells clean, fruity, sweet-juicy, and above all, strong. The fruitiness reminds me of syrup in which mandarins and peaches are soaked, and the cleanliness could stem from a shower gel or laundry detergent. From the very beginning, there is a synthetic component that, while it weakens over the next few hours, never completely disappears.
A few minutes later, the sweetness diminishes, it becomes more floral, and there is a very slight leathery note present (probably from the Osmanthus). The lotus gives Aoud Lagoon an underlying aquatic note and a summery freshness without being maritime. There are no algae and no salt involved, no coconut and no citrus notes.
The heart notes last a long time, and I find them quite pleasant - it smells "rich" instead of airy and somewhat abstract. I don’t have to think realistically of a lagoon but rather of the expressionist image of it. The synthetic aspect and the idea of Aoud Lagoon remind me of Aqua Sextius by Jul et Mad, where a certain shower gel vibe with figs, salt, watery, and green notes is combined into a dense perfume.
In the drydown, it becomes increasingly lighter and drier as the woody note comes in. I don't consciously perceive vetiver or oakmoss, but the scent now feels a bit more "grounded." Both the sweetness and the synthetic note are hardly present anymore.
I find this an interesting development - many fragrances start with light, airy notes and then become increasingly heavier and sweeter. Here, it’s the other way around, and I really like the base notes.
Similar to Aqua Sextius, I wouldn’t want to wear Aoud Lagoon daily and would only use 1-2 sprays, as the first 10 minutes and the synthetic aspect quickly become too much for me. However, whenever I wear it, my friends find it very pleasant, and the scent lingers on clothing for a long time, smelling fantastically fresh and clean.
I had never really paid much attention to the brand, perhaps due to the sheer number of fragrances and the central theme of Oud - not for me! However, the names of the fragrances made it easy to identify potential summer and office-appropriate candidates, and so I ultimately arrived at Aoud Lagoon.
The first few minutes are quite intense - it smells clean, fruity, sweet-juicy, and above all, strong. The fruitiness reminds me of syrup in which mandarins and peaches are soaked, and the cleanliness could stem from a shower gel or laundry detergent. From the very beginning, there is a synthetic component that, while it weakens over the next few hours, never completely disappears.
A few minutes later, the sweetness diminishes, it becomes more floral, and there is a very slight leathery note present (probably from the Osmanthus). The lotus gives Aoud Lagoon an underlying aquatic note and a summery freshness without being maritime. There are no algae and no salt involved, no coconut and no citrus notes.
The heart notes last a long time, and I find them quite pleasant - it smells "rich" instead of airy and somewhat abstract. I don’t have to think realistically of a lagoon but rather of the expressionist image of it. The synthetic aspect and the idea of Aoud Lagoon remind me of Aqua Sextius by Jul et Mad, where a certain shower gel vibe with figs, salt, watery, and green notes is combined into a dense perfume.
In the drydown, it becomes increasingly lighter and drier as the woody note comes in. I don't consciously perceive vetiver or oakmoss, but the scent now feels a bit more "grounded." Both the sweetness and the synthetic note are hardly present anymore.
I find this an interesting development - many fragrances start with light, airy notes and then become increasingly heavier and sweeter. Here, it’s the other way around, and I really like the base notes.
Similar to Aqua Sextius, I wouldn’t want to wear Aoud Lagoon daily and would only use 1-2 sprays, as the first 10 minutes and the synthetic aspect quickly become too much for me. However, whenever I wear it, my friends find it very pleasant, and the scent lingers on clothing for a long time, smelling fantastically fresh and clean.
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Fig from Southern France
After 15 years of perfume enthusiasm, a sense of disillusionment set in a few months ago: it’s hard to keep up with the new releases, quality is declining, prices are rising, everything seems and sounds somewhat the same, and I no longer wanted to make exceptions regarding the ingredients.
However, I didn’t give up and explored organic labels and smaller brands that meet my requirements. My hope was to discover something new that is beautiful and exciting while also aligning with my values.
I was convinced by very little, as something usually didn’t fit.
That changed in Southern France, where I found the small perfume oil bottles from Versatile in a boutique. Versatile is a young, transparent brand that uses both natural and synthetic ingredients while omitting all the substances I consider questionable. I usually never wear perfume oil, but the scents seemed interesting, especially the new Sea, Sud & Sun.
The scent is described on the Versatile website as follows:
"Fresh. Pastis. Fig. Iced. Neroli.
Musky. Tropezian. Salty. Marine."
I have rarely read a better description.
It really starts off fresh, a bit like Cologne, and then smells of green, salty fig. I categorize the fig similarly to that in Diptyque's Philosykos (in terms of green, fruit, creaminess), but it is enhanced with Fleur de Sel, making it feel cooler and less woody.
After a few minutes, an icy Pastis joins in. It doesn’t smell alcoholic, but a cool anise note cannot be denied. It fits surprisingly well into the picture and doesn’t dominate the scent. However, it remains a guest appearance, as the fig then asserts itself more strongly and becomes increasingly creamy.
Fig is often associated with coconut, but in Sea, Sud & Sun, I perceive it only slightly. Instead, a light dessert note emerges towards the end. "Tarte Tropézienne" is a dessert pastry from Southern France, and although I enjoy it as a dessert, I’m glad it doesn’t take over the scent. The fig remains until the end and is then complemented by sweet brioche on a sandalwood board.
As a perfume oil, the scent doesn’t project as strongly as a spray. However, it lasts forever on the skin and makes me think of the South of France for hours.
Overall, Sea, Sud & Sun is a creative, wearable scent from a likable brand, of which there should be more. It’s not a masterpiece (and that’s not the intention), but it offers a small, fine scent journey to the South that also makes you eager to try the other Versatile perfumes.
However, I didn’t give up and explored organic labels and smaller brands that meet my requirements. My hope was to discover something new that is beautiful and exciting while also aligning with my values.
I was convinced by very little, as something usually didn’t fit.
That changed in Southern France, where I found the small perfume oil bottles from Versatile in a boutique. Versatile is a young, transparent brand that uses both natural and synthetic ingredients while omitting all the substances I consider questionable. I usually never wear perfume oil, but the scents seemed interesting, especially the new Sea, Sud & Sun.
The scent is described on the Versatile website as follows:
"Fresh. Pastis. Fig. Iced. Neroli.
Musky. Tropezian. Salty. Marine."
I have rarely read a better description.
It really starts off fresh, a bit like Cologne, and then smells of green, salty fig. I categorize the fig similarly to that in Diptyque's Philosykos (in terms of green, fruit, creaminess), but it is enhanced with Fleur de Sel, making it feel cooler and less woody.
After a few minutes, an icy Pastis joins in. It doesn’t smell alcoholic, but a cool anise note cannot be denied. It fits surprisingly well into the picture and doesn’t dominate the scent. However, it remains a guest appearance, as the fig then asserts itself more strongly and becomes increasingly creamy.
Fig is often associated with coconut, but in Sea, Sud & Sun, I perceive it only slightly. Instead, a light dessert note emerges towards the end. "Tarte Tropézienne" is a dessert pastry from Southern France, and although I enjoy it as a dessert, I’m glad it doesn’t take over the scent. The fig remains until the end and is then complemented by sweet brioche on a sandalwood board.
As a perfume oil, the scent doesn’t project as strongly as a spray. However, it lasts forever on the skin and makes me think of the South of France for hours.
Overall, Sea, Sud & Sun is a creative, wearable scent from a likable brand, of which there should be more. It’s not a masterpiece (and that’s not the intention), but it offers a small, fine scent journey to the South that also makes you eager to try the other Versatile perfumes.
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Solid SPA Hotel by the Sea
Anori was supposed to be my summer fragrance. Sea spray with magnolia and woody undertones? Sounded great. I love salty notes, and as long as an aquatic perfume maintains the tension, I'm in.
Unfortunately, the first spray was a bit disappointing. It smelled like Palmolive Olive shower gel: clean, soapy, a bit green. Just intense like shower gel. This impression lingered surprisingly long on my skin until it slowly faded after about 20 minutes. In its place came the magnolia blossoms, which seemed carried by the sea breeze and had an airy and fresh character. From the green start, only herbal notes remained.
I imagine dunes in spring: it's fresh, the dunes are covered with grass and flowers, and the clear, salty wind whistles from the sea. My critical nose simultaneously thinks of high-quality fabric softeners and scent sticks. This is how the rooms in SPA or thermal hotels could smell.
The fragrance doesn't change significantly after that. The longevity and sillage are surprisingly good until Anori becomes quieter and fades out pleasantly, but also somewhat unspectacularly.
Unfortunately, I don't pick up on any driftwood. It remains clean, floral, mineral. Like freshly showered, which is why I can easily imagine it in spring/summer, at the gym, and in the office.
Anori could have easily been released 20 years ago and would have gone unnoticed. Very unisex; I can even imagine it being slightly better on a man.
What do I do with it now? I look somewhat perplexed at Anori. The scent meets all my criteria (clean aquatic magnolia with salt and sea freshness), but I find it a bit harsh, and at the same time, I can't get over the slightly synthetic beginning. The heart notes are nice, but they don't grab me enough and ultimately show no depth or change.
I'm considering using it as a room spray.
The packaging, the bottle, and the spray mist are, as expected from Le Couvent, top-notch and seem far more high-quality than the price suggests. Overall, however, Anori falls behind other favorites in the line (especially Smyrna), even though the scent fundamentally meets the Le Couvent criteria (nice & wearable).
For me, a solid 6.5/10
Unfortunately, the first spray was a bit disappointing. It smelled like Palmolive Olive shower gel: clean, soapy, a bit green. Just intense like shower gel. This impression lingered surprisingly long on my skin until it slowly faded after about 20 minutes. In its place came the magnolia blossoms, which seemed carried by the sea breeze and had an airy and fresh character. From the green start, only herbal notes remained.
I imagine dunes in spring: it's fresh, the dunes are covered with grass and flowers, and the clear, salty wind whistles from the sea. My critical nose simultaneously thinks of high-quality fabric softeners and scent sticks. This is how the rooms in SPA or thermal hotels could smell.
The fragrance doesn't change significantly after that. The longevity and sillage are surprisingly good until Anori becomes quieter and fades out pleasantly, but also somewhat unspectacularly.
Unfortunately, I don't pick up on any driftwood. It remains clean, floral, mineral. Like freshly showered, which is why I can easily imagine it in spring/summer, at the gym, and in the office.
Anori could have easily been released 20 years ago and would have gone unnoticed. Very unisex; I can even imagine it being slightly better on a man.
What do I do with it now? I look somewhat perplexed at Anori. The scent meets all my criteria (clean aquatic magnolia with salt and sea freshness), but I find it a bit harsh, and at the same time, I can't get over the slightly synthetic beginning. The heart notes are nice, but they don't grab me enough and ultimately show no depth or change.
I'm considering using it as a room spray.
The packaging, the bottle, and the spray mist are, as expected from Le Couvent, top-notch and seem far more high-quality than the price suggests. Overall, however, Anori falls behind other favorites in the line (especially Smyrna), even though the scent fundamentally meets the Le Couvent criteria (nice & wearable).
For me, a solid 6.5/10
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Timelessly Beautiful Everyday Fragrance
Terrasse à St-Germain first encountered me during a spontaneous city trip. It was hot, I had several fragrances on my arm, and I found it good, but somewhat flat in the dry down. Now I had the opportunity to test the scent more extensively. Overall, my impression remains the same, but I would like to delve a bit deeper into Terrasse.
The fragrance starts fruity, but not citrusy, rather peach-like. Most recognizable is tangerine, a sweet mandarin note. I do not perceive sour rhubarb, perhaps that is for the best.
The fruitiness lingers for a long time but quickly blends with floral chypre notes. It smells green, maturely fruity, and somewhat clean. In the background, woody and light patchouli notes resonate.
It took me a while to realize which fragrances Terrasse reminds me of. One would be "Le Parfum de Thérèse | Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle," which is also fruity green and floral. Thérèse is overall more contrasting - the fruits are stronger in the top notes, the jasmine clearer in the heart. Terrasse is softened, everything is a bit creamier and rounder. If Thérèse is a black-and-white picture, then Terrasse has the same picture in clear pastel tones.
It also bears some resemblance (without being a twin) to "31 Rue Cambon (Eau de Toilette) | Chanel." Both with Chanel and with the Malle fragrance, Terrasse shares a certain modern retro charm. However, 31 Rue Cambon shows more development overall and chooses to start with aldehydes.
I had remembered the base notes as somewhat disappointing. I must revise that now. The dry down of Terrasse is quite pleasant, but it deviates the most from Malle and Chanel. While the other two fragrances showcase their entire retro splendor, Terrasse increasingly feels modern. Here too, my fragrance memory took some time to find a similar scent. The dry down most reminds me of the finish of "For Her (Eau de Toilette) | Narciso Rodriguez." Of course, they do not smell identical (For Her has a creamy orange blossom musk cloud, Terrasse smells of green-floral wood cream). But this often-used classification as "Woody Floral Musk" applies to both and leads to a very seductive, yet somehow intimate finish.
I can easily imagine Terrasse as a signature scent. The sillage is not overwhelming, it feels timeless (yet more modern than the two mentioned fragrances from Malle and Chanel) and shows a few interesting facets.
Office or leisure, warm or cold season, morning or evening - Terrasse could fit anytime. Tending to see it more on women than on men, but it would certainly smell good on the male gender as well.
Overall, a beautiful everyday fragrance that doesn’t clash and at the same time can be appreciated by fragrance nerds. The only thing is, they could have set the price a bit lower.
The fragrance starts fruity, but not citrusy, rather peach-like. Most recognizable is tangerine, a sweet mandarin note. I do not perceive sour rhubarb, perhaps that is for the best.
The fruitiness lingers for a long time but quickly blends with floral chypre notes. It smells green, maturely fruity, and somewhat clean. In the background, woody and light patchouli notes resonate.
It took me a while to realize which fragrances Terrasse reminds me of. One would be "Le Parfum de Thérèse | Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle," which is also fruity green and floral. Thérèse is overall more contrasting - the fruits are stronger in the top notes, the jasmine clearer in the heart. Terrasse is softened, everything is a bit creamier and rounder. If Thérèse is a black-and-white picture, then Terrasse has the same picture in clear pastel tones.
It also bears some resemblance (without being a twin) to "31 Rue Cambon (Eau de Toilette) | Chanel." Both with Chanel and with the Malle fragrance, Terrasse shares a certain modern retro charm. However, 31 Rue Cambon shows more development overall and chooses to start with aldehydes.
I had remembered the base notes as somewhat disappointing. I must revise that now. The dry down of Terrasse is quite pleasant, but it deviates the most from Malle and Chanel. While the other two fragrances showcase their entire retro splendor, Terrasse increasingly feels modern. Here too, my fragrance memory took some time to find a similar scent. The dry down most reminds me of the finish of "For Her (Eau de Toilette) | Narciso Rodriguez." Of course, they do not smell identical (For Her has a creamy orange blossom musk cloud, Terrasse smells of green-floral wood cream). But this often-used classification as "Woody Floral Musk" applies to both and leads to a very seductive, yet somehow intimate finish.
I can easily imagine Terrasse as a signature scent. The sillage is not overwhelming, it feels timeless (yet more modern than the two mentioned fragrances from Malle and Chanel) and shows a few interesting facets.
Office or leisure, warm or cold season, morning or evening - Terrasse could fit anytime. Tending to see it more on women than on men, but it would certainly smell good on the male gender as well.
Overall, a beautiful everyday fragrance that doesn’t clash and at the same time can be appreciated by fragrance nerds. The only thing is, they could have set the price a bit lower.
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Chai Latte with Cedar Finish
How I danced around this scent! It sounded so perfect! Spicy-warm tea with milk and a hint of flowers? Yes, please! (At this point: many thanks for the sample, Sabrini!)
Upon the first spray, a grin spread across my face. Yes, the opening was fantastic. A distinct ginger note, but softened by the vanilla milk. It doesn’t smell sharp, but rather fresh and warm with a finely tuned spicy sweetness. Very delicious and yet not too gourmand. I can easily imagine this scent from autumn to spring.
I don’t consciously perceive frangipani. I’m not even sure I would have suspected any flowers at all without knowing the notes. I attribute the mild scent more to the milk.
Unfortunately, the fragrance then develops further and the woody notes of the base become prominent. It remains warm, mild, and slightly sweet, but I always find cedar a bit scratchy, and the scent loses some of its uniqueness. Cecile Zarokian seems to love warm, slightly scratchy woody vanilla, and that’s fine; plenty of people enjoy it.
For me, this base unfortunately doesn’t work, similar to Aura Sublime and Cafe Cabanel (also her creations).
Yes, this is indeed nitpicking at a high level. If it had only remained with the top and heart notes, I might have missed some development. But why cedar? Couldn’t it have at least been sandalwood or a light incense that would have matched the airy chai tea latte impression?
Overall, it’s a lovely scent; the top and heart notes are dreamy. Cozy, homely, fresh warm spicy. The sillage is pleasant. Maybe a decant will find its way to me after all.
Before the base notes come through, I would just layer it on :P
Upon the first spray, a grin spread across my face. Yes, the opening was fantastic. A distinct ginger note, but softened by the vanilla milk. It doesn’t smell sharp, but rather fresh and warm with a finely tuned spicy sweetness. Very delicious and yet not too gourmand. I can easily imagine this scent from autumn to spring.
I don’t consciously perceive frangipani. I’m not even sure I would have suspected any flowers at all without knowing the notes. I attribute the mild scent more to the milk.
Unfortunately, the fragrance then develops further and the woody notes of the base become prominent. It remains warm, mild, and slightly sweet, but I always find cedar a bit scratchy, and the scent loses some of its uniqueness. Cecile Zarokian seems to love warm, slightly scratchy woody vanilla, and that’s fine; plenty of people enjoy it.
For me, this base unfortunately doesn’t work, similar to Aura Sublime and Cafe Cabanel (also her creations).
Yes, this is indeed nitpicking at a high level. If it had only remained with the top and heart notes, I might have missed some development. But why cedar? Couldn’t it have at least been sandalwood or a light incense that would have matched the airy chai tea latte impression?
Overall, it’s a lovely scent; the top and heart notes are dreamy. Cozy, homely, fresh warm spicy. The sillage is pleasant. Maybe a decant will find its way to me after all.
Before the base notes come through, I would just layer it on :P
