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Duality of Guerlain’s vanilla
Browsing my local Dillard’s I walked over to my favorite spot: the Guerlain counter. There I see Habit Rouge Spirit.
Intrigued and knowing nothing about it, I pick up the Flacon, lift the red wooden magnetic cap and smell the atomizer.
Immediately I’m reminded of the creamy yet leathery vanilla and buttery Iris of the limited edition Shalimar Vanilla Planifolia.
I asked for a sample and to purchase a bottle- none in the store, sold out.
I begged to purchase the half full tester instead I was given a generous 6ml sample.
Habit Rouge Spirit opens with rounded bergamot along side Guerlain’s vanilla (perhaps their opopanine accord) and buttery doughy Iris humming behind it.
I also sense a spicy warmth that I assume is the nutmeg.
30 minutes later the bergamot lessens significantly making way for the leathery aspects of the vanilla to come forward.
The oak becomes a bit heavier as well. The overall fragrance is warm, woody yet powdery. Another new Guerlain creation comes to mind L’heure Doree which goes in a more creamy woods/ amber where HRS is powdery with a heavy emphasis on Iris/Orris.
Silage is phenomenal. I keep smelling myself as I walk around with just one spray on the back of my hand.
There is a darkness to HRS that SVP doesn’t have that o believe comes from the oak.
The deep dry down brings me to Shalimar Vanilla Planifolia’s sweet, doughy vanilla and buttery Iris.
I find both fragrances to be unisex with Habit Rouge Spirit leaning masculine and Shalimar Vanilla Planifolia leaving feminine, each being the two sides of the same Guerlain coin.
Intrigued and knowing nothing about it, I pick up the Flacon, lift the red wooden magnetic cap and smell the atomizer.
Immediately I’m reminded of the creamy yet leathery vanilla and buttery Iris of the limited edition Shalimar Vanilla Planifolia.
I asked for a sample and to purchase a bottle- none in the store, sold out.
I begged to purchase the half full tester instead I was given a generous 6ml sample.
Habit Rouge Spirit opens with rounded bergamot along side Guerlain’s vanilla (perhaps their opopanine accord) and buttery doughy Iris humming behind it.
I also sense a spicy warmth that I assume is the nutmeg.
30 minutes later the bergamot lessens significantly making way for the leathery aspects of the vanilla to come forward.
The oak becomes a bit heavier as well. The overall fragrance is warm, woody yet powdery. Another new Guerlain creation comes to mind L’heure Doree which goes in a more creamy woods/ amber where HRS is powdery with a heavy emphasis on Iris/Orris.
Silage is phenomenal. I keep smelling myself as I walk around with just one spray on the back of my hand.
There is a darkness to HRS that SVP doesn’t have that o believe comes from the oak.
The deep dry down brings me to Shalimar Vanilla Planifolia’s sweet, doughy vanilla and buttery Iris.
I find both fragrances to be unisex with Habit Rouge Spirit leaning masculine and Shalimar Vanilla Planifolia leaving feminine, each being the two sides of the same Guerlain coin.
New obsession!
I love Roja’s pour femme line of fragrances - Madison is similar to 51 in texture but on my skin this is more fruity and has more amber/ woody incense whereas 51 is silky powdery Orris/Iris.
On my skin the predominant notes are: mandarin, black current, Violet , Orris, cedar, incense and Benzoin.
Madison also has great projection for a Parfum.
The dry down is very oriental and I love it. If you can find a bottle for a fair price and you like the notes- go for it. (Smells nothing like Diaghilev or other suggestions)
On my skin the predominant notes are: mandarin, black current, Violet , Orris, cedar, incense and Benzoin.
Madison also has great projection for a Parfum.
The dry down is very oriental and I love it. If you can find a bottle for a fair price and you like the notes- go for it. (Smells nothing like Diaghilev or other suggestions)
Total miss Celine DNA outlier
I don’t know what’s going on here- this is a total flop for me. I love Celine’s DNA and most of the line.
1. Celine’s gorgeous vanilla is missing here, replaced with a weird plasticky chapstick textured caramel/vanilla.
2. None of Celine’s wondeful Orris- okay.
There is barely a whisper of powdery amber under this strange plastic vanilla toffee?
This smells NOTHING like Shalimar Iris (a favorite of mine) not black tie or Dans Paris.
There is also a tartness (maybe Tonka) that comes across like fruity pebbles or cereal fruitiness. I wish they pushed the quirkiness and amped up the projection, maybe I would enjoy it more. It’s like when your favorite band put out a flop- disappointing.
1. Celine’s gorgeous vanilla is missing here, replaced with a weird plasticky chapstick textured caramel/vanilla.
2. None of Celine’s wondeful Orris- okay.
There is barely a whisper of powdery amber under this strange plastic vanilla toffee?
This smells NOTHING like Shalimar Iris (a favorite of mine) not black tie or Dans Paris.
There is also a tartness (maybe Tonka) that comes across like fruity pebbles or cereal fruitiness. I wish they pushed the quirkiness and amped up the projection, maybe I would enjoy it more. It’s like when your favorite band put out a flop- disappointing.
2010/2024 APLS comparison
I recently added the new 2024 release from Selfridges into my collection and it’s exactly like the 2010!
I have a 2ml sample of the 2010 vintage that came along with a 200ml bottle of Cologne Pour le Soir.
It’s the same round, slightly acidic almost waxy honey (think unfiltered honey with wax inside) with the dusty/stone like incense. Just as dense and rich but the vintage is a bit more beastly in projection which makes sense as it’s aged for 14 years.
The new fragrance does project very well with two sprays but the vintage seriously needs only 1/2 spray!
The cumin is not funky or too much it’s just creating this human nuance that makes the fragrance feel sort of erotic and part of the wearer. I do not smell urine, I have no idea how others smell urine. I’m so happy I splurged.
The backside of the faceplate reads: Parfum Créé en 2010 Francis Kurkdjian- such a lovely touch!
I have a 2ml sample of the 2010 vintage that came along with a 200ml bottle of Cologne Pour le Soir.
It’s the same round, slightly acidic almost waxy honey (think unfiltered honey with wax inside) with the dusty/stone like incense. Just as dense and rich but the vintage is a bit more beastly in projection which makes sense as it’s aged for 14 years.
The new fragrance does project very well with two sprays but the vintage seriously needs only 1/2 spray!
The cumin is not funky or too much it’s just creating this human nuance that makes the fragrance feel sort of erotic and part of the wearer. I do not smell urine, I have no idea how others smell urine. I’m so happy I splurged.
The backside of the faceplate reads: Parfum Créé en 2010 Francis Kurkdjian- such a lovely touch!
In love
Review:
MFK Reflets d’ambre
Wow! If I was inclined to choose a signature fragrance for myself I think this would be it.
This opens with a sparking pink pepper - this pink pepper is NOT harsh, abrasive or nauseating. It’s smooth, spiced and immediately I get the impression of amber. Soon there after the jasmine comes forward. The Jasmine is soft and round, almost an abstract Jasmine rather than a true to life Jasmine. Perhaps my perception will change with more wears.
The deep dry down is delicious patchouli forward amber. It’s filled of contradictions; syrupy yet powdery. Rich yet airy.
Like another favorite of mine Guerlain’s Bois D’Armenie; Reflects d’ambre creates a mystical woody balsamic aura around the wearer, giving them hours of a sweet resinous scent bubble. The silage is above average. I wore RdA out today and throughout the shop I kept waking into my siliage.
Reflects d’ambre doesn’t become more intimate until the 6 hours mark.
I have not been able to test Ciel de Gum (please, message me if you have a sample or decant to swap with me- I am dying to sample it) though many say this is Ciel de Gum but lighter and airier.
I find this composition to be full bodied so Ciel de Gum must be fantastic!!
It also smells nothing like Gaultier2.
I am already considering a backup bottle of Reflets d’ambre. It’s still being sold by Harrods as it’s a Harrods exclusif.
MFK Reflets d’ambre
Wow! If I was inclined to choose a signature fragrance for myself I think this would be it.
This opens with a sparking pink pepper - this pink pepper is NOT harsh, abrasive or nauseating. It’s smooth, spiced and immediately I get the impression of amber. Soon there after the jasmine comes forward. The Jasmine is soft and round, almost an abstract Jasmine rather than a true to life Jasmine. Perhaps my perception will change with more wears.
The deep dry down is delicious patchouli forward amber. It’s filled of contradictions; syrupy yet powdery. Rich yet airy.
Like another favorite of mine Guerlain’s Bois D’Armenie; Reflects d’ambre creates a mystical woody balsamic aura around the wearer, giving them hours of a sweet resinous scent bubble. The silage is above average. I wore RdA out today and throughout the shop I kept waking into my siliage.
Reflects d’ambre doesn’t become more intimate until the 6 hours mark.
I have not been able to test Ciel de Gum (please, message me if you have a sample or decant to swap with me- I am dying to sample it) though many say this is Ciel de Gum but lighter and airier.
I find this composition to be full bodied so Ciel de Gum must be fantastic!!
It also smells nothing like Gaultier2.
I am already considering a backup bottle of Reflets d’ambre. It’s still being sold by Harrods as it’s a Harrods exclusif.
