Ha! When I look at the statements here under the fragrance, it really amuses me a lot. I do love these "smells like subway toilet" critiques … and here they come, of course, with a warning. Because: MFK is really not a house known for particularly animalic scents, quite the opposite! So it makes perfect sense that people who otherwise enjoy a "Grand Soir | Maison Francis Kurkdjian," a "Baccarat Rouge 540 (Eau de Parfum) | Maison Francis Kurkdjian," or an
Oud Satin Mood Eau de Parfum would wrinkle their noses here. But it also shows that even a Francis Kurkdjian has not completely surrendered to commerce (even if his role at Dior speaks a different language). Because this fragrance here MUST confront its loyal customers - a targeted and successful provocation! Even though I would like to humbly say that I don't know what it smells like in subway toilets, as I avoid those places like the devil avoids holy water. But it's good to know that a large part of the reviewers seems to be quite familiar with the odor prevailing there. I hope you always have plenty of disinfectant with you …
But what kind of fragrance is the
Absolue Pour le Soir (2024)? An astonishingly good one - that can be said right away! Especially after the long dry spell that Kurkdjian has been through (see the last DIOR and MFK releases). The motto here is: Back to old strength (because whether you like his scent language or not: he undoubtedly knows his craft). That someone with this legendary status would throw all caution to the wind and reissue the
Absolue Pour Le Soir (2010) is certainly surprising. Since I unfortunately do not know the old release, I cannot make comparisons, but can only share my impressions of the new "Absolue." The fragrance actually starts off animalic - the cumin may have slipped down the list, but it is present from the very beginning and provides a lascivious, sweaty note that harmonizes wonderfully with the heavy, classic rose. But Kurkdjian wouldn't be Kurkdjian if the typical sweetness didn't hit with full force right away. Warm honey, sticky resins, seductive vanilla - all these notes can also be found in the "Grand Soir | Maison Francis Kurkdjian," but here they are contrasted with harsh cumin and smoky labdanum. One almost wants to think of early Bianchi fragrances, but this one has the typical MFK refinement. Even though the scents do not resemble each other in profile, one might think of "Leather Oud | Dior," as this fragrance also managed to convey that the animalic does not just come across as "dirty" but rather extremely "decadent." Before the "Absolue Pour le Soir (2024) | Maison Francis Kurkdjian," even a Demachy would respectfully tip his hat and forgive Mr. Kurkdjian for the defacement of the "Dior Homme Parfum (2014) | Dior."
All in all, the
Absolue Pour le Soir (2024) is rightly part of the "My Very Intimate Perfumes" collection, as it certainly gets intimate, almost obscenely dirty - but at a high level. It must have smelled like this at one of the famously disreputable parties of the bourgeoisie - when hedonism was indulged in without any inhibitions. It also fits that the fragrance does not smell youthful at all, but breathes the spirit of classic French perfumery. I can really only recommend everyone to test this fragrance and immerse themselves in its sensual, captivating nature - especially if one usually cannot relate to MFK at all. This perfume feels mature, heavy, classic, and in the most beautiful way, dirty. For me, it is so far an absolute highlight of the year 2025 and proof that even the old, saturated masters still have it sometimes.
Finally, I have one more request: If you do not like animalic scents in fragrances (which is completely legitimate and I can totally understand), then please stop rating animalic fragrances. Because then it is no longer about "good" or "bad" or objective criticism, but about subjective taste. It's like hating jazz but then writing reviews of jazz albums - that makes no sense. And I don't mean this in a mean or derogatory way, but simply as a little reminder not to label everything you don't like as "bad." At least I am having fun with the dirty, new MFK.
Rose honey
Labdanum
Vanilla
Amber
Cumin
NicheOnly
PersianDoc
Incensenut
Holscentbar
NoraBalsamic
Davediomede
ElAttarine
Ergoproxy
Stella73
Yatagan
