Rossiniopera
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Rossiniopera
Warm, spicy summer floral
This one came out in 1990, and smells exactly like it. A heavy, sweet and intoxicating blend of fruit and summery floral notes, warmed by sandalwood, amber and vanilla. I am sure I have seen somewhere the notes linden blossom and heliotrope for this perfume, and I am pretty certain I smell both - linden blossom as a sort of golden drizzle on top, while heliotrope is more of a powdery base. I believe I also smell a good dose of musk. Benzoin is clearly present. Also just a little bit of green freshness, particularly in the opening.
It seems that most other voters prefer this in the colder seasons, but to me, everything in it points towards summer. Maybe not for 30C, it would probably be too cloying, but for 18-20C it is perfect - the early stages of summer, when everything green and floral is still developing, and the air is sweet and full of expectations.
As it dries down, I can feel the sweet, powdery combination of benzoin, heliotrope and vanilla more clearly. I recognize it from the sister Bogner Now, which came out a year later. In fact, I get the feeling that Bogner Now took the formula for Bogner Woman, removed the fresh florals, then multiplied the ingredients in the base before heating it all in the oven... and out came a super-powdery benzoin-heliotrope-vanilla pudding. Lovely in its own way, but too sweet for me. However, a small portion of this base is exactly what gives the warmth that I love so much in Bogner Woman. Floral perfumes usually do not agree with me too well, but when it is full of warm supportive notes like here, I find it just perfect.
Sadly this beauty is now rare, and the bottle I got a few years ago was very expensive. On the other hand, sillage and longevity are great, so it will last me for many May and June days, for years to come.
It seems that most other voters prefer this in the colder seasons, but to me, everything in it points towards summer. Maybe not for 30C, it would probably be too cloying, but for 18-20C it is perfect - the early stages of summer, when everything green and floral is still developing, and the air is sweet and full of expectations.
As it dries down, I can feel the sweet, powdery combination of benzoin, heliotrope and vanilla more clearly. I recognize it from the sister Bogner Now, which came out a year later. In fact, I get the feeling that Bogner Now took the formula for Bogner Woman, removed the fresh florals, then multiplied the ingredients in the base before heating it all in the oven... and out came a super-powdery benzoin-heliotrope-vanilla pudding. Lovely in its own way, but too sweet for me. However, a small portion of this base is exactly what gives the warmth that I love so much in Bogner Woman. Floral perfumes usually do not agree with me too well, but when it is full of warm supportive notes like here, I find it just perfect.
Sadly this beauty is now rare, and the bottle I got a few years ago was very expensive. On the other hand, sillage and longevity are great, so it will last me for many May and June days, for years to come.
Sweet sunshine with annoying last phase
When I recently bought a bunch of vintage miniatures, a half-full bottle of this Floris perfume came with them. I do not normally wear fresh citrusy scents, I do not even know that many and I cannot compare them to each other and say this reminds me of... or this is better than... . So I had a fairly open mind when I tried this on.
I enjoy the opening. Sweet, floral notes from orange blossom, green tea and a gentle touch of ginger and vanilla makes this a delightful choice for a warm summer's day, when you don't want to make a big statement, but just want to feel good. The scent is happy, carefree, sunny and fresh, feels like a trip to the sea.
Unfortunately, the last phase does not agree with me. I'm not sure exactly what it is, but it seems to melt down to a base of synthetic wood that feels very annoying. Could also be the ambrette, or a combination. I have tried it several times, but I always end up washing it off after maybe 3-4 hours. A shame, because I really like the opening and could see myself wearing it in the summer. Maybe it will perform differently in warmer weather (it's still quite cold in Norway in May), but I have my doubts...
I enjoy the opening. Sweet, floral notes from orange blossom, green tea and a gentle touch of ginger and vanilla makes this a delightful choice for a warm summer's day, when you don't want to make a big statement, but just want to feel good. The scent is happy, carefree, sunny and fresh, feels like a trip to the sea.
Unfortunately, the last phase does not agree with me. I'm not sure exactly what it is, but it seems to melt down to a base of synthetic wood that feels very annoying. Could also be the ambrette, or a combination. I have tried it several times, but I always end up washing it off after maybe 3-4 hours. A shame, because I really like the opening and could see myself wearing it in the summer. Maybe it will perform differently in warmer weather (it's still quite cold in Norway in May), but I have my doubts...
Golden spring nectar
When linden trees are blooming, the beautiful, almost intoxicating fragrance from their flowers can be smelled in the air around parks and along town streets, and the scent is well captured as the main note in Apaisant. It's supported by the equally sweet mimosa and freesia, but thanks to a touch of the more herbal chamomile, the sweetness is never too much, it manages to stay on the right side. Vanilla has a tendency to dominate in every perfume where it takes part, but not here, the flowers are allowed to play the main roles. Pure sunshine and liquid gold.
The only thing I mind is a vague, but still noticeable sort of metallic vibe, something a little sharp that can give me a slight headache. For that reason I don't wear it as much as I would like to, but Apaisant definitely has a place in my spring/early summer wardrobe.
The only thing I mind is a vague, but still noticeable sort of metallic vibe, something a little sharp that can give me a slight headache. For that reason I don't wear it as much as I would like to, but Apaisant definitely has a place in my spring/early summer wardrobe.
Tropical summer with a "bite"
A few years ago I had a small bottle of Songes edp. I believe it was an older one, but not sure how old. It came in a small, square black bottle with gold stars. I wanted to like it, but I just wasn't able to truly appreciate it and wear it - so in the end, I sold it.
Last week I saw someone selling a bottle of Songes edt, the first version with the bow around the cap. Suddenly, I felt that I missed it, and although it was a bit expensive, I decided to give it another try. Perhaps the edt would feel a little lighter and be more wearable than my previous edp.
The bottle arrived today, and the first spray was two things: tropical floral heaven, and a medium strong rubber note. The kind of rubber note that you often get with tuberose perfumes - tuberose is not listed for Songes, but the effect is similar. When I smelled my arm up close, it was almost unpleasant, something like a mix of sweat and sun-heated old rubber ties. But the scent that was wafting around me, was beautiful - sweet exotic flowers on a base of vanilla. And a single spray was really intense! The rubber feeling slowly faded, but the flowers stayed strong. I think that with the edp, the problem was that it was so concentrated that the rubber note was completely dominating over the flowers. With the edt, the proportions are different, and the flowers are allowed to really glow. Six hours after application it is still pleasant, but no longer intensely radiating as it was in the beginning. The vanilla is quite strong, but the other spices are noticeable as well. Cumin mainly in the opening, where you can feel the "bite", cinnamon is more of a soft, warm base, it doesn't stand out as much.
I am really glad that I decided to give Songes another chance, and I imagine I will be wearing this quite a lot this summer.
Last week I saw someone selling a bottle of Songes edt, the first version with the bow around the cap. Suddenly, I felt that I missed it, and although it was a bit expensive, I decided to give it another try. Perhaps the edt would feel a little lighter and be more wearable than my previous edp.
The bottle arrived today, and the first spray was two things: tropical floral heaven, and a medium strong rubber note. The kind of rubber note that you often get with tuberose perfumes - tuberose is not listed for Songes, but the effect is similar. When I smelled my arm up close, it was almost unpleasant, something like a mix of sweat and sun-heated old rubber ties. But the scent that was wafting around me, was beautiful - sweet exotic flowers on a base of vanilla. And a single spray was really intense! The rubber feeling slowly faded, but the flowers stayed strong. I think that with the edp, the problem was that it was so concentrated that the rubber note was completely dominating over the flowers. With the edt, the proportions are different, and the flowers are allowed to really glow. Six hours after application it is still pleasant, but no longer intensely radiating as it was in the beginning. The vanilla is quite strong, but the other spices are noticeable as well. Cumin mainly in the opening, where you can feel the "bite", cinnamon is more of a soft, warm base, it doesn't stand out as much.
I am really glad that I decided to give Songes another chance, and I imagine I will be wearing this quite a lot this summer.
Not my perfect summer scent
I admit that Sicily has a certain summer vibe. I can imagine being on holiday, coming into a cabin that smells of old wood and recently used soap or cleaning products. A bush is blooming outside the open window. The sun is strong, but I forgot to bring my regular, unscented sunscreen, so I have to apply a different one bought at the local store, and I don't really like the smell. That's the feeling I get from Sicily. More like dry soap, cleaning products and chemical sunscreen than an actual perfume.
Perhaps it's a matter of skin chemistry - I have dry skin, and that is not always the best starting point, especially not with aldehydes. Perhaps Sicily smells sweet, warm and creamy on others, but on me it's not an ideal match. I was surprised to read several reviews on another site comparing it to Chanel no 5, because I cannot see any similarities at all. But then I remembered that there is a huge difference between vintage and modern no 5, and I am only used to the vintage. But six or seven years ago, when I tested the modern one in a store, I remember thinking that it smelled like - well - an old, dry, cracked-up bar of soap. So I guess they might have something in common after all...
Now to be fair, I must say that Sicily does mellow a little, a few hours after application. It gets just a little bit warmer and more golden. But still, I feel that this is a product of some sorts, designed for primarily another function than just smelling good, and sadly I am not really comfortable wearing it.
Perhaps it's a matter of skin chemistry - I have dry skin, and that is not always the best starting point, especially not with aldehydes. Perhaps Sicily smells sweet, warm and creamy on others, but on me it's not an ideal match. I was surprised to read several reviews on another site comparing it to Chanel no 5, because I cannot see any similarities at all. But then I remembered that there is a huge difference between vintage and modern no 5, and I am only used to the vintage. But six or seven years ago, when I tested the modern one in a store, I remember thinking that it smelled like - well - an old, dry, cracked-up bar of soap. So I guess they might have something in common after all...
Now to be fair, I must say that Sicily does mellow a little, a few hours after application. It gets just a little bit warmer and more golden. But still, I feel that this is a product of some sorts, designed for primarily another function than just smelling good, and sadly I am not really comfortable wearing it.
