SchatzSucher

There are huge differences in the rather large world of fragrances at Dior. There is the modern fragrance world, which gives us inclined sniffing noses fresh and spicy, fresh and flowery, iris-powdery, rather uncomplicated and suitable for everyday use.
Not every fragrance is well received. And the current development at Dior is unfortunately a cause for concern. The last big litters have been a while back and some popular fragrances have either already been taken off the market again or have even been reformulated already, which is also a cause of concern for many of us. In addition, we feel that new flankers are being brought onto the market at a rapid pace

Then there's the exclusive series of rather high-priced fragrances, which includes everything from odd to remarkable, and which you can't get in every perfumery. Okay, it's supposed to be exclusive. Even there, not every fragrance likes and meanwhile this series has become quite large

And finally, there is a world of Dior that looks back to a time when haute couture still had a certain status and fragrances were designed to match exquisite robes. The release of these fragrances was not done in a hurry. Often years passed before a new fragrance was launched.
Some of these fragrances have survived to this day and are offered as "Les Créations de Monsieur Dior". Some of them were created by Edmond Roudnitska (1905 - 1996), a fantastic perfumer who knew better than anyone else how to combine scents so excellently. Many a small masterpiece was created under his hand. And those who know his works can confirm that there are quite close relations among his works and that the fragrances are always based on each other
Diorella is such a beautiful example of his great craftsmanship, one of my absolute favorites, a beautiful, bright and friendly chypre fragrance for example and diorama, which is what this is all about.

Originally launched in 1949, this fragrance has since been adapted to today's standards and guidelines.
Since I can't draw any comparison to an earlier version, I'll just say with full conviction that this fragrance has been revised very well.
And my enthusiasm is great.

Diorama has nothing girlish or playful about it at all. It is a mature and self-confident fragrance, which gets by without any sweetness and artificially tricked up liveliness.
It combines classic chypre elements (no wonder I like it so much) and also has fruity hints. But these fruity notes are also anything but sweet, but rather already dry and with a fine spice.
The prelude is already a grand entrance, the typical bergamot scent in combination with flowers. Also the blossoms appear without any sweetness. They are elegant, present, but never become intrusive. To the flowers I notice the fruity notes and as a refined counterpoint caraway is added. It is not cumin, which often brings an unpleasant sweaty note to fragrances. It is the "real" cumin with its certain spiciness.
Towards the base it gets a bit woody and I wouldn't be surprised if a bit of moss was used as well. Patchouli still gives a nice depth, but never looks dull or earthy.

I find it very astonishing that the fragrance shows all its capabilities in its last phase, when it has already become very quiet, and finally closes with a beautiful flowery finish. Here once again true perfume art is shown, when a fragrance is designed so multi-faceted.
Diorama has a quite good durability with a good 7 hours and never gets loud and brazen. This scent appears altogether adult, rather cool and slightly distant, a bit serious and self-confident. A fragrance from the category of those fragrances that don't have to prove anything to anyone anymore.
This classic orientation suits Diorama very well, but the 71 years of age are not noticeable in this fragrance.
In any case, the fragrances whose names begin with Dior- have without exception aroused great enthusiasm in me and I am pleased that these fragrances are still available.
Surely, fragrances like Diorama are not everyone's cup of tea, but you should have tested the fragrances in any case.
And the full score is more than earned.

My big thanks go to Gold, who made it possible for me to get to know Diorama so wonderfully.

A great bohemian is usually made around the scents of Tom Ford. There is general excitement when a new fragrance is announced, the money is generally quite loose and many fragrances enjoy great popularity.
I've looked, the average rating of all Tom Ford fragrances listed here is 7.9, which is really a very decent value. Until a few years ago, Parfumo's scores for the fragrances were given here in percent. I thought that was very good, too

About Tom Ford himself, I'm sure I don't need to say anything more. Also it doesn't have to be mentioned that he is not standing at the lab table himself and is busy handling the test tubes
Not all fragrances enjoy a wide recognition. Some also polarize quite a bit.
Vert de Fleur is one of the less common fragrances. But it is one of the fragrances that I really like, and so much so that I had to have it.

Those who know me a little better know by now that I am very fond of scents with floral notes. I also like green notes in fragrances very much and when chyprenotes appear somewhere, I'm usually excited anyway
Vert de Fleur is one of them

Created in 2016 by the French perfumer Yann Vasnier, who works for the Swiss flavour and fragrance manufacturer Givaudan and has created a lot for Comme des Garçons, Jo Malone, Divine and Tom Ford, among others. Currently, 26 people own him, 10 of them female and 16 male, and they have a taste of him.

Here, classic ingredients have been mixed together in a modern way, with some differences to the "great old chypre fragrances".
The start is already very flowery and green, a big sloshing galbanum brings this rich crunchy green note that lingers throughout the fragrance. Galbanum can often seem a bit bulky, but I have grown very fond of this note over time.

A clear hyacinth is very quickly noticeable and this remains present throughout the entire fragrance process. I have found that I like hyacinth in fragrances very much, in Cristalle EdP it is also very noticeable.
As an indoor plant I do not like hyacinth, it gives me headaches with its penetrating smell. But in fragrances with different accompanying notes it is a nice note. And hyacinth is rather unsweet by nature, which is also very dear to me. And it always brings a certain pungency with it, which also clearly runs through this fragrance.
The hyacinth still has some floral companions, but none of them really comes to the fore, but in their interplay they show a certain fleshiness that feigns a touch of animalism. A real animalistic component, as it is often found in classic chypre scents, is missing here though.
Towards the base it becomes additionally a little darker and earthier. I still notice that the fragrance has an overall rather cool aura. With the undefined green notes and the moss, the fragrance has a certain underlying "tumultuousness". Such notes sometimes bother me, because they sometimes remind me of oily musty flower water. Here it fits perfectly and it makes sure that the fragrance doesn't slip into the flowery, musty water. Counterpoints are important in fragrances, otherwise they quickly become boring. And I do not find this fragrance boring at all. The fragrance also radiates a large portion of self-confidence, which fits perfectly to the image of the brand Tom Ford.

Vert de Fleur has a good shelf life, 8-9 hours the fragrance is perceptible, it also radiates quite well for the first 2 hours before it then retires.
I see it in spring and in the not yet too warm summer, at temperatures above 25 degrees the scent might be too dense and in the cold season it might seem too cool.

The fact that a certain synthetics hovers over everything cannot be denied. But meanwhile so much synthetics is used, even in the high-priced segment, but if it is well installed, I get along with it well.
The fragrance is called unisex here. Anyway, I am of the opinion that flowery scents can work well on men. And the slightly higher percentage of male owners obviously confirms this.

But I still have to criticize a little bit. And that is the workmanship of the flacon. There you don't take certain details very seriously
As valuable and appealing as the design appears at first glance, I cannot hide a few flaws. For example, the label is glued on a little bit crooked and the lid sits rather loose.
You have to be careful when you want to take the bottle out of the carton.
I find this a little annoying, because the exclusive series is not exactly one of the most affordable fragrance series. It's the content that counts, but you also buy the packaging and this is a little bit conclusive

Vert de Fleur came to me some time ago in a sample package from Kovex and caused such enthusiasm that I had to put him on my wish list quickly. Now the scent is quite hard to find and I had no choice but to look in a well-known online auction house. After some searching and some patience the scent came to me from Great Britain. And that even at a more than acceptable price.
I thank Kovex for making it possible for me to get to know him and I am very happy about this fragrance.
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A small note: I have not been faked, the bottle and fragrance are real. I've noticed a few times already that sometimes you don't do your job right. My Mandarino di Amalfi Acqua (bought at Karstadt) has similar small flaws.

The brand Etat Libre d'Orange has only 14 years on the hunchback and yet it already has a quite remarkable fragrance spectrum. At the moment 43 fragrances are listed here, I know 11 of them. I only got to know this brand here during my active time on Parfumo.

Etat Libre d'Orange was literally proclaimed in 2006 by Etienne de Swardt, who described the year as the year zero of perfume art. It is considered a virtual nation, a state in which fragrance freaks consider their creations entirely as art and create their works simply following their inspirations. That's what makes them so different from the interchangeable drawing board fragrances that are becoming more and more prevalent in the design world.
The name of the fragrance house is derived from the Orange Free State, an independent Boer Republic in South Africa, which existed between 1854 and 1902. Etienne de Swardt was born in Pretoria, so the name was not chosen by chance.
I don't want to talk about the painful history of South Africa, that would go beyond the scope of this article and this is also not the right platform for it.

This brand attracts attention with very unconventional fragrances with equally unconventional names. It is said that Sécrétions Magnifiques is one of the most terrible fragrances of all. I don't know it, but I have read quite a bit about it. It wouldn't be a fragrance I'd have to put on my watch list
Now a small and very interesting test series recently came into my hands and I took the opportunity to deal extensively with the fragrances.
Of the scents tested, The Afternoon of a Faun made the most impression on me.
And I thought I could write a few lines about the scent.

The fragrance is built entirely around the Immortelle. The immortelle or strawflower belongs to the daisy family and has a characteristic fragrance. I would describe the fragrance as strongly spicy, aromatic and curry-like. I also perceive the fragrance as very dry, somewhat dusty and medicinal. In any case quite idiosyncratic and not everyone's cup of tea.
The Immortelle remains the dominant theme throughout the entire process. If you can't do anything with this fragrance, you won't be happy with it either.
The strawflower is joined by a few other floral notes, but these are used sparingly and remain in the background. Resinous spice is still present and gives the fragrance a warm undertone. It also becomes greenish, moss brings a certain dull and creaky touch. And a touch of cinnamon adds a bittersweet note.
All of this is very skillfully interwoven, because I can't really make out a top, heart or base note in this fragrance. The notes all come together and surround the main protagonist Immortelle, giving her an exciting framework.
The scent shows slight hints of a chypre scent, a direction I am still very much in favour of
In the course of time the fragrance changes only a little bit, it gets a little deeper and a note that reminds me of Maggi comes into play. This is not directly unpleasant now, but fragrances that remind me too much of kitchen spices or herbs are not really my preferred direction.
Overall, the fragrance is not heavy or somber, although I cannot deny its bulkiness.
The shelf life of 10 hours is very successful, but in the course of the first hour the fragrance becomes very close. The somewhat quieter tones, which are struck here, I find very suitable here
What does this have to do with a faun now? A faun is a deity of nature and the forest, protector of farmers and herdsmen, of cattle and fields. In its appearance as a mixed creature of man and billy goat, it is supposed to protect and monitor the fertility of man, animals and plants.
The Afternoon of a Faun is based on the poem of the same name by Stéphane Mallarmé, which was adapted into a piece of music by Claude Debussy. This in turn was first performed as a ballet in 1912. Furiously choreographed and danced by Vaslav Nijinsky, it became a scandalous success because it was full of sexual allusions. Unthinkable at that time.
This play tells the story of a faun that wakes up from its afternoon nap and talks about what it has experienced during the day. Maybe they were just dreams

With this fragrance you want to remind of this work. It's quite well done, I think. The fragrance is a bit stubborn on the whole and with this mix of tart, floral, spicy and slightly animal notes it interprets this somewhat surreal mood of the piece quite well, even if I don't find it scandalous.
However, the fragrance will not be a candidate for purchase, because although it is very good, it would definitely be one of those fragrances that are hardly ever worn. So it remains a very interesting and enriching test experience and I thank Ergoproxy very much for the opportunity to test it.

And with the 100th comment I wanted to report about a very impressive fragrance.

Thanks for the attention so far!

The brand S.T. Dupont was previously known to me only as a manufacturer of high-priced luxury items such as lighters, leather goods, accessories, writing utensils and watches.
Scents of this brand were unknown to me until recently. Here are 53 fragrances listed, but many of them are no longer available. And all in all the scents here fly a little under the radar.

Now one or two scents of S.T. Dupont came to my nose through a kind exchange of samples and I could see that these are really not bad or even very good

The company S. T. Dupont was founded by Simon Tissot-Dupont as early as 1872 and started producing high-quality briefcases for diplomats and wealthy businessmen. Already in 1884 it became a supplier for "Les Grands Magasins du Louvre". By the 1920s, the company already had 250 employees.
After a stagnation caused by the war and the poor availability of leather, the company switched to the production of lighters, which are still very popular today.
However, the production of leather goods could be resumed after the 2nd World War.
In the meantime, aristocrats and statesmen were also counted among the clientele.
Queen Elizabeth II received a S. T. Dupont briefcase as a gift from the then French President Vincent Auriol for her wedding in 1947 and has been a customer of the brand ever since.
Since 1998, the company has also offered perfumes that are or were distributed by Inter Parfums.

I have taken a closer look at the Signature for Men. And I liked the scent immediately
Despite the quite numerous ingredients listed here in the fragrance pyramid, Signature for Men is a very pleasant and beautifully balanced fragrance that never becomes heavy or intrusive.

The attack is slightly citrusy, a little herbaceous and a nice fine spiciness is noticeable. No note pushes itself forward and a slight sweetness is added.
Woody and floral tones mix in quite quickly and I also notice a soft smoky note. One could almost think that some crumbs of tobacco have been added as well.
The base notes are actually almost noticeable from the beginning, the sweetness of benzoin, tonka and vanilla emerges very quickly, but does not make the fragrance unnecessarily heavy.
Despite the abundance of ingredients, Signature for Men does not appear overloaded or unrounded, but light-footed, bright and friendly.
The fragrance also has a good shelf life, I can perceive it for a good 8 hours. It does not spread an immense veil of scent, but it radiates quite well in the first hour

Among other things, Gucci Envy for Men is listed here as the fragrance twin. I cannot confirm this. Envy accompanied me for a long time until it was used up and unfortunately it was not to be found in the shops anymore. Envy is much darker, even herbaceous and heavier. But every nose decides differently, as we all know.

The flacon is also beautifully designed with the hinged lid and the angular shape. Thus it reminds of an inkwell or one of these noble lighters. A fine eye-catcher he is always.
Meanwhile, the fragrance has been around for 20 years, but is so timeless that it still works today.
Nevertheless, the scent is no longer produced. I suppose too little marketing led to too little attention. I also don't remember ever having seen scents of S.T. Dupont in the usual shops
Some scents are a pity
But recently a bottle has been in my possession and I am very happy about it.

I would like to thank Precious once again for the great fragrance experience and the big surprise!

The scents of Zoologist are certainly anything but boring. Some of them are even real challenges for my nose, which can even bring me to my knees, as my recent experience with Hyrax has proven once again.
Recently, Dragonfly appeared in my face and since I like to test practically everything that is kindly made available to me, I also took the dragonfly, according to the German translation, quite carefree
With this fragrance one would like to olfactorically appreciate the dragonflies and their habitat. Which worked very well in my nose.
Once you have the opportunity to take a closer look at dragonflies, you will realize what fascinating and filigree beauties these insects are. There are some specimens that reach a considerable body size and shimmer in splendid colours
That dragonflies are of predatory nature and grab their unsuspecting victims out of flight and kill them with their powerful biting tools, we leave standing in the room. As everywhere in nature, "eat and be eaten" applies, because there are again numerous predators, which dragonflies love to see on their menu.
Contrary to widespread belief, dragonflies are completely harmless to humans and they cannot sting either.
A few years ago a rather large, greenish iridescent dragonfly once flew into my living room. At first it flew around somewhat confused and aimlessly and then eyed me attentively for a while. But then it could see that I could never harm it and shortly afterwards it remembered where the open window was and disappeared again without a word. I would have liked to know the thoughts of the dragonfly

Dragonfly is as multifaceted and fascinating as the dragonflies themselves. It offers a rather wide range of scents, from floral, to fruity and somewhat woody, to aquatic notes.
All the areas that dragonflies either need as a habitat or choose for prey.

The fragrance is very flowery and also quite sweet. Aldehydes are clearly audible here, which underline the floralness in a shimmering and powdery way. Fruity notes are added, but it is not possible to define them more precisely. The fruits seem to me to be a little bit very ripe, because they are very sweet and quite penetrating.
Then it gets interesting, because this floral-fruity sweetness is interspersed with an aquatic note. And aquatic notes are quite delicate for me. There are few fragrances with aquatic notes that I like. Most of the time it's too over-the-top, too algal and often too artificial. Although the North Sea coast is still a good 100 km away from me, I know what it smells like on the water. Actually, no scent can reflect this realistically
But the aquatic note of Dragonfly still gets the turnaround and is quite discreet and doesn't remind me of stale flower water. Olle's floral water thoroughly disliked Jardin d'Iris from Pryn Parfums at the time
Even though this note is muted on Dragonfly, it is a certain "but" for me and develops into a slight disturbing factor for me.
It is always said that every fragrance needs an opposite pole, a small edge or a certain amount of dirt to make it interesting. I largely agree with this, but I would have preferred a different edge here.
But Dragonfly is not an aquatic fragrance in the strict sense.

In addition, slightly woody notes are added in the course of the song and moss that appears moist.
The distinct sweetness recedes somewhat after a while.
So an interesting course can be attested to this fragrance in any case. There are scents that run much more linear and hardly change at all
Dragonfly is not a noisy scent that kills with an overloaded scent pyramid. It is present and has a very good durability. I can perceive it for a good 8 hours and it does not spread an immense veil of scent.

However, this fragrance will not be a candidate for purchase, I like flowery-sweet, but for me the whole thing is a little too sweet and artificial and I can't imagine wearing the fragrance longer, even though it is certainly one of the more accessible zoologist fragrances.
Thus, Zoologist will remain an exciting test experience for me and does not necessarily have to press the order button.

I thank MoniE for the sample and for enriching my scent horizon and I continue to enjoy watching dragonflies in the wild. Even though they have become very rare here in the big city.