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Fragrance classic, modern interpreted
The fragrance house bdk Parfums is a relatively young fragrance label and has, in its now 5 years of existence, a pleasantly concise fragrance portfolio.
The founder David Benedek, born in Paris in 1989, has always had a connection to the world of fragrance, as his grandparents, who immigrated from Transylvania to France in the 1950s, were among the first to sell fragrances from Dior or Worth in Paris, initially aimed at tourists.
In the 1960s, they opened their first own boutique for perfumes and exclusive cosmetic products. The expertise has always been passed down within the family.
After studying economics and management, David Benedek moved to the Institut Français de la Mode to acquire further knowledge in cosmetics and perfumery and to pursue his passion for fragrances more thoroughly.
From this, it was only natural that he would create his own company. One that strikes me as very likable.
I find the company's website very pleasant, as it focuses on the essentials and does not try to charm consumers with convoluted advertising promises and other dubious statements.
In collaboration with various perfumers, different fragrances have emerged over time that aim to cater to different tastes.
From floral-fresh to fruity to oriental nuances, everything is represented.
Rouge Smoking and Gris Charnel have stayed in my good memory, even Crème de Cuir, as a leather fragrance (which I usually tend to reject), left a good impression.
Now, another fragrance is added, French Bouquet, to which I would like to write a few lines.
The name French Bouquet is not chosen by chance. On the one hand, it refers to its origin, and on the other hand, with French Bouquet, one wants to lean towards classic French luxury perfumery.
Already during the first test, I noticed a note that clearly reminds me of one of the most famous fragrances ever. Right in the top note, a large wave of aldehydes can be detected. This unmistakable scent of soap, a hint of a freshly blown-out candle, and a distinct wax note.
The fragrance component with the rather unremarkable name Dodecanal is responsible for giving Chanel N°5 its unmistakable character.
I would claim that an homage to this perennial favorite was intended here.
Now, French Bouquet is by no means a fragrance twin of Chanel N°5; it follows its own path. But I cannot deny a certain kinship.
In addition to the waxy note, there is also a slightly greasy impression. These greasy notes often disturb me because they usually come across as rather unclean or even dirty. I have noticed this in several fragrances that contain a lot of musk in the base.
Here, it is different; the slightly greasy impression appears at the beginning and emphasizes the waxy aspect without being unpleasant at all.
It continues with floral notes, white flowers and rose, with none of the flowers pushing themselves too dominantly, as they are quite closely intertwined. At most, jasmine stands out here and there a little. However, the friendly variant of jasmine has been chosen.
Later on, some wood, patchouli, a bit of tobacco, and a slightly resinous undertone become noticeable. This gives the fragrance a bit of additional depth.
From then on, it is clearly noticeable that French Bouquet and N°5 separate significantly, as French Bouquet is much spicier in the base and leaves a warmer impression. N°5 always seems cooler to me and less spicy.
A slight sweetness runs through the fragrance without ever being intrusive.
The fragrance has very good longevity and presence; 8-9 hours are easily achievable, and at the beginning, it is also very noticeable. After about 2 hours, the fragrance then retreats but is still easily detectable close to the skin.
There may be some discussion regarding its classification as a unisex fragrance, as many would probably categorize it in the women's section. However, I prefer to disregard such categorizations.
You should wear what you like best and what makes you feel comfortable.
French Bouquet has a nostalgic touch for me; the consciously classic-timeless orientation and the reference to a fragrance classic that has been on the market for 100 years this year further emphasize this nostalgia.
Since modern raw materials are used here, there is a certain synthetic touch hovering over the fragrance, but as I consider the synthetic elements to be well-crafted, I cannot complain here.
One last word about availability:
French Bouquet was apparently originally and exclusively created for Harrods, like Tabac Rose, but now seems to be regularly orderable, although it was not available during my last look at the website.
My conclusion:
French Bouquet is a successful fragrance, whose direction, floral-spicy with many aldehydes, is certainly not everybody's darling.
It will not make it into my collection, but it leaves a very good impression, and I wish the brand bdk-Parfums continued success.
The founder David Benedek, born in Paris in 1989, has always had a connection to the world of fragrance, as his grandparents, who immigrated from Transylvania to France in the 1950s, were among the first to sell fragrances from Dior or Worth in Paris, initially aimed at tourists.
In the 1960s, they opened their first own boutique for perfumes and exclusive cosmetic products. The expertise has always been passed down within the family.
After studying economics and management, David Benedek moved to the Institut Français de la Mode to acquire further knowledge in cosmetics and perfumery and to pursue his passion for fragrances more thoroughly.
From this, it was only natural that he would create his own company. One that strikes me as very likable.
I find the company's website very pleasant, as it focuses on the essentials and does not try to charm consumers with convoluted advertising promises and other dubious statements.
In collaboration with various perfumers, different fragrances have emerged over time that aim to cater to different tastes.
From floral-fresh to fruity to oriental nuances, everything is represented.
Rouge Smoking and Gris Charnel have stayed in my good memory, even Crème de Cuir, as a leather fragrance (which I usually tend to reject), left a good impression.
Now, another fragrance is added, French Bouquet, to which I would like to write a few lines.
The name French Bouquet is not chosen by chance. On the one hand, it refers to its origin, and on the other hand, with French Bouquet, one wants to lean towards classic French luxury perfumery.
Already during the first test, I noticed a note that clearly reminds me of one of the most famous fragrances ever. Right in the top note, a large wave of aldehydes can be detected. This unmistakable scent of soap, a hint of a freshly blown-out candle, and a distinct wax note.
The fragrance component with the rather unremarkable name Dodecanal is responsible for giving Chanel N°5 its unmistakable character.
I would claim that an homage to this perennial favorite was intended here.
Now, French Bouquet is by no means a fragrance twin of Chanel N°5; it follows its own path. But I cannot deny a certain kinship.
In addition to the waxy note, there is also a slightly greasy impression. These greasy notes often disturb me because they usually come across as rather unclean or even dirty. I have noticed this in several fragrances that contain a lot of musk in the base.
Here, it is different; the slightly greasy impression appears at the beginning and emphasizes the waxy aspect without being unpleasant at all.
It continues with floral notes, white flowers and rose, with none of the flowers pushing themselves too dominantly, as they are quite closely intertwined. At most, jasmine stands out here and there a little. However, the friendly variant of jasmine has been chosen.
Later on, some wood, patchouli, a bit of tobacco, and a slightly resinous undertone become noticeable. This gives the fragrance a bit of additional depth.
From then on, it is clearly noticeable that French Bouquet and N°5 separate significantly, as French Bouquet is much spicier in the base and leaves a warmer impression. N°5 always seems cooler to me and less spicy.
A slight sweetness runs through the fragrance without ever being intrusive.
The fragrance has very good longevity and presence; 8-9 hours are easily achievable, and at the beginning, it is also very noticeable. After about 2 hours, the fragrance then retreats but is still easily detectable close to the skin.
There may be some discussion regarding its classification as a unisex fragrance, as many would probably categorize it in the women's section. However, I prefer to disregard such categorizations.
You should wear what you like best and what makes you feel comfortable.
French Bouquet has a nostalgic touch for me; the consciously classic-timeless orientation and the reference to a fragrance classic that has been on the market for 100 years this year further emphasize this nostalgia.
Since modern raw materials are used here, there is a certain synthetic touch hovering over the fragrance, but as I consider the synthetic elements to be well-crafted, I cannot complain here.
One last word about availability:
French Bouquet was apparently originally and exclusively created for Harrods, like Tabac Rose, but now seems to be regularly orderable, although it was not available during my last look at the website.
My conclusion:
French Bouquet is a successful fragrance, whose direction, floral-spicy with many aldehydes, is certainly not everybody's darling.
It will not make it into my collection, but it leaves a very good impression, and I wish the brand bdk-Parfums continued success.
50 Comments
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Creed in a Whole New Way
At the repeated request of a certain individual, I would like to once again share a somewhat longer description of a fragrance.
When a fragrance evokes great enthusiasm in me, I believe it deserves more than just a brief statement. Moreover, nothing has been written here for over 5 years.
Now that the cobwebs have been carefully removed from this page, I would like to share my opinion on Irisia with the general public.
The perfume house Creed is indeed very much in the spotlight here at Parfumo. Daily, a certain magical and sacred fragrance seems to waft through forums, tickers, and discussion groups almost like a mantra. A fragrance said to possess mysterious qualities and that is now revered almost iconically. This admittedly perplexes me a bit.
Until recently, I was not aware that, aside from the big A, there is a significantly broader fragrance spectrum at Creed, as hardly any other scents are mentioned apart from the big A.
Perhaps a spritz of Himalaya or a hint of Green Irish Tweed. At best, a splash of Virgin Island Water, and that’s about it.
Nevertheless, Creed offers quite a large selection of fragrances that range from classic to modern and cater very well to most tastes.
The Creed house was originally founded in 1760 and started as a tailoring shop. It made a name for itself in the 19th century as a purveyor to the English royal family. Additionally, the European high nobility, including Queen Victoria and Napoleon III along with his wife Eugénie, were among its regular customers.
However, the history of the perfume house is somewhat shrouded in mystery, as publications are not precisely documented, and the actual and well-known success story only begins in the mid-80s with Green Irish Tweed.
It can be assumed that the very early released fragrances were produced in the smallest quantities and were personally intended for the prominent clientele.
In 1968, Irisia was launched on the market. I recently got my hands on a sample of this fragrance. And I am extremely delighted.
Irisia is a beautifully crafted fragrance that exhibits the classic characteristics of a true Chypre. A citrusy top note, a floral heart, and a mossy-woody base, which is rounded off with a fine spiciness.
With Irisia, the basic recipe has been followed closely. However, a distinct animalistic component in the base (e.g., amber or castoreum) has been omitted.
In the opening, beautiful citrus notes emerge, with bitter-sour bergamot and a touch of mandarin mixing in. Shortly thereafter, the flowers make their appearance. They are closely intertwined, with none really standing out dominantly. The interplay harmonizes beautifully. A slight green tint is contributed by a bit of galbanum. It’s not much, as it is not as prominent as in other green Chypre fragrances, but this typical green note is noticeable.
As the scent develops, I notice amber and oakmoss, which give Chypre fragrances their corresponding note. Musk, however, ensures with a fine soapy undertone that no strong scratchiness arises.
And I also recognize some woody notes in the fragrance that add a little rounding and form.
What I find interesting about Irisia: Although it is a Chypre fragrance from the 60s and during that time there were already quite harsh and dry Chypre fragrances on the market, I do not perceive Irisia as cumbersome or particularly scratchy at all.
The fragrance does seem rather cool overall, but it gives off a thoroughly friendly impression. Even those who generally struggle with Chypre might find access here.
It has an astonishingly good longevity and is by no means intrusive even with one or two extra sprays.
Irisia is categorized as a women's fragrance, but since it is well known that I often disregard these classifications, I also believe that the fragrance works very well on men.
And I find it fantastic. But why "only" a 9.5 and not a 10?
Because in terms of class, complexity, recognizability, and perfection, it does not quite reach the masterpieces like Parure, Dioressence, or Fendi, which surpass Irisia in these aspects.
But that should not dampen the enthusiasm in any way. Irisia has everything an excellent fragrance needs. And once again, it shows: There used to be more lametta.
However, the joy has a catch... Because Irisia is no longer available. I cannot say when the fragrance was taken off the market, but it is a real shame.
I have added the fragrance to my wish list. I will not chase after it, as I am now more than well-equipped in the Chypre department. But who knows...
I would like to sincerely thank Anarlan for this wonderful fragrance experience and the wicked temptation, and I thank you all for reading :-))
When a fragrance evokes great enthusiasm in me, I believe it deserves more than just a brief statement. Moreover, nothing has been written here for over 5 years.
Now that the cobwebs have been carefully removed from this page, I would like to share my opinion on Irisia with the general public.
The perfume house Creed is indeed very much in the spotlight here at Parfumo. Daily, a certain magical and sacred fragrance seems to waft through forums, tickers, and discussion groups almost like a mantra. A fragrance said to possess mysterious qualities and that is now revered almost iconically. This admittedly perplexes me a bit.
Until recently, I was not aware that, aside from the big A, there is a significantly broader fragrance spectrum at Creed, as hardly any other scents are mentioned apart from the big A.
Perhaps a spritz of Himalaya or a hint of Green Irish Tweed. At best, a splash of Virgin Island Water, and that’s about it.
Nevertheless, Creed offers quite a large selection of fragrances that range from classic to modern and cater very well to most tastes.
The Creed house was originally founded in 1760 and started as a tailoring shop. It made a name for itself in the 19th century as a purveyor to the English royal family. Additionally, the European high nobility, including Queen Victoria and Napoleon III along with his wife Eugénie, were among its regular customers.
However, the history of the perfume house is somewhat shrouded in mystery, as publications are not precisely documented, and the actual and well-known success story only begins in the mid-80s with Green Irish Tweed.
It can be assumed that the very early released fragrances were produced in the smallest quantities and were personally intended for the prominent clientele.
In 1968, Irisia was launched on the market. I recently got my hands on a sample of this fragrance. And I am extremely delighted.
Irisia is a beautifully crafted fragrance that exhibits the classic characteristics of a true Chypre. A citrusy top note, a floral heart, and a mossy-woody base, which is rounded off with a fine spiciness.
With Irisia, the basic recipe has been followed closely. However, a distinct animalistic component in the base (e.g., amber or castoreum) has been omitted.
In the opening, beautiful citrus notes emerge, with bitter-sour bergamot and a touch of mandarin mixing in. Shortly thereafter, the flowers make their appearance. They are closely intertwined, with none really standing out dominantly. The interplay harmonizes beautifully. A slight green tint is contributed by a bit of galbanum. It’s not much, as it is not as prominent as in other green Chypre fragrances, but this typical green note is noticeable.
As the scent develops, I notice amber and oakmoss, which give Chypre fragrances their corresponding note. Musk, however, ensures with a fine soapy undertone that no strong scratchiness arises.
And I also recognize some woody notes in the fragrance that add a little rounding and form.
What I find interesting about Irisia: Although it is a Chypre fragrance from the 60s and during that time there were already quite harsh and dry Chypre fragrances on the market, I do not perceive Irisia as cumbersome or particularly scratchy at all.
The fragrance does seem rather cool overall, but it gives off a thoroughly friendly impression. Even those who generally struggle with Chypre might find access here.
It has an astonishingly good longevity and is by no means intrusive even with one or two extra sprays.
Irisia is categorized as a women's fragrance, but since it is well known that I often disregard these classifications, I also believe that the fragrance works very well on men.
And I find it fantastic. But why "only" a 9.5 and not a 10?
Because in terms of class, complexity, recognizability, and perfection, it does not quite reach the masterpieces like Parure, Dioressence, or Fendi, which surpass Irisia in these aspects.
But that should not dampen the enthusiasm in any way. Irisia has everything an excellent fragrance needs. And once again, it shows: There used to be more lametta.
However, the joy has a catch... Because Irisia is no longer available. I cannot say when the fragrance was taken off the market, but it is a real shame.
I have added the fragrance to my wish list. I will not chase after it, as I am now more than well-equipped in the Chypre department. But who knows...
I would like to sincerely thank Anarlan for this wonderful fragrance experience and the wicked temptation, and I thank you all for reading :-))
45 Comments
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Copy in Oil
Recently, I received a rather extensive package with 16 perfume oils from El Nabil.
The brand was completely unknown to me until now. The name suggests a manufacturer of Arab origin.
However, after some research on the website and in the WWW, this does not seem to be the case. Here at Parfumo, it is stated that the company comes from France, but on their web presence, the headquarters is listed as Birmingham/UK.
Whether there are indeed Arab hands and noses behind it could not be determined.
El Nabil is very reserved with information and names.
They advertise with the motto "Luxury for Everyone." After reviewing the entire range, I could identify a wide variety of products, from perfumes and cosmetics to room fragrances, offering a fairly broad spectrum.
And all this at very moderate to cheap prices.
However, after extensive testing of the perfume oils, I found that El Nabil leans quite heavily on well-known and popular scents or even copies them.
This is, of course, nothing new. When a fragrance is successful and sells well, others are quick to jump on the bandwagon.
I was able to identify one or two fragrance twins and also found that they have indeed done a good job of copying.
The perfume oils smell, despite the really low prices, not cheap or inferior. And in some cases, they even last longer than the originals.
I got a bit stuck on Musc Sicile. I quickly found out that this is a well-made copy of the quite popular Black Opium Eau de Parfum.
I do not like Black Opium, and I do not like Musc Sicile either.
The opening of both fragrances is the same, fruity sweetness, followed by white flowers, vanilla, and at most a hint of spice. All of this is also very sugary sweet.
Coffee is supposed to be present as well, but I cannot find it. Even in Black Opium, there is not much coffee, rather it is more of a little coffee.
Not a big deal, I prefer to drink coffee rather than spray it on myself.
As the scent develops, Musc Sicile and Black Opium part ways.
In Musc Sicile, an additional quite pronounced musk note develops, which makes the already not-so-pleasant scent even less enjoyable for me. This musk note becomes unpleasantly dirty and grimy for me, somewhat greasy. Sugary sweetness and flowers do not help anymore.
I have nothing against musk in moderate doses, but here it has really been overdone.
Therefore, Black Opium received one more point than this scent.
In terms of longevity, El Nabil is superior to YSL. While Black Opium dissipates after just a few hours, Musc Sicile lasts a solid 9-10 hours. The oily base contributes to the longer longevity. Musc Sicile remains overall closer to the skin, which is a significant advantage for some fragrances.
I am not a fan of perfume oils; I find the consistency and the film on the skin bothersome. And I do not like this scent direction. However, I do not consider myself the target audience, even though I do not shy away from the women's department otherwise.
None of the oils will find their way to me, cheap price or not, even if some are really good.
But I find all of this very interesting for testing.
And I will not elaborate further on the topic of copying; much has already been said about that.
I would like to thank Mr. and Mrs. A. from B. for the testing opportunities!
And now I will make myself another coffee, a real one, hand-filtered, without sugary sweetness.
The brand was completely unknown to me until now. The name suggests a manufacturer of Arab origin.
However, after some research on the website and in the WWW, this does not seem to be the case. Here at Parfumo, it is stated that the company comes from France, but on their web presence, the headquarters is listed as Birmingham/UK.
Whether there are indeed Arab hands and noses behind it could not be determined.
El Nabil is very reserved with information and names.
They advertise with the motto "Luxury for Everyone." After reviewing the entire range, I could identify a wide variety of products, from perfumes and cosmetics to room fragrances, offering a fairly broad spectrum.
And all this at very moderate to cheap prices.
However, after extensive testing of the perfume oils, I found that El Nabil leans quite heavily on well-known and popular scents or even copies them.
This is, of course, nothing new. When a fragrance is successful and sells well, others are quick to jump on the bandwagon.
I was able to identify one or two fragrance twins and also found that they have indeed done a good job of copying.
The perfume oils smell, despite the really low prices, not cheap or inferior. And in some cases, they even last longer than the originals.
I got a bit stuck on Musc Sicile. I quickly found out that this is a well-made copy of the quite popular Black Opium Eau de Parfum.
I do not like Black Opium, and I do not like Musc Sicile either.
The opening of both fragrances is the same, fruity sweetness, followed by white flowers, vanilla, and at most a hint of spice. All of this is also very sugary sweet.
Coffee is supposed to be present as well, but I cannot find it. Even in Black Opium, there is not much coffee, rather it is more of a little coffee.
Not a big deal, I prefer to drink coffee rather than spray it on myself.
As the scent develops, Musc Sicile and Black Opium part ways.
In Musc Sicile, an additional quite pronounced musk note develops, which makes the already not-so-pleasant scent even less enjoyable for me. This musk note becomes unpleasantly dirty and grimy for me, somewhat greasy. Sugary sweetness and flowers do not help anymore.
I have nothing against musk in moderate doses, but here it has really been overdone.
Therefore, Black Opium received one more point than this scent.
In terms of longevity, El Nabil is superior to YSL. While Black Opium dissipates after just a few hours, Musc Sicile lasts a solid 9-10 hours. The oily base contributes to the longer longevity. Musc Sicile remains overall closer to the skin, which is a significant advantage for some fragrances.
I am not a fan of perfume oils; I find the consistency and the film on the skin bothersome. And I do not like this scent direction. However, I do not consider myself the target audience, even though I do not shy away from the women's department otherwise.
None of the oils will find their way to me, cheap price or not, even if some are really good.
But I find all of this very interesting for testing.
And I will not elaborate further on the topic of copying; much has already been said about that.
I would like to thank Mr. and Mrs. A. from B. for the testing opportunities!
And now I will make myself another coffee, a real one, hand-filtered, without sugary sweetness.
39 Comments
Translated · Show original
Warm-spicy solid presence without fuss
There are fragrance directions that can be exhausting for some of us, demanding and sometimes overwhelming. Too loud, too chaotic, hardly wearable in everyday life.
But there are also fragrance directions that are the exact opposite and simply have a soothing effect because they are pleasantly and harmoniously composed and never stand out unpleasantly.
There were times when straightforward scents were created according to a classic pattern.
This includes many fragrances from the traditional house of Hermès.
Hermès was founded in 1837 as a business for saddles, harnesses, and other horse gear. Later, other leather goods such as suitcases and handbags were added. Over the years, Hermès developed into a luxury goods company with ready-to-wear, watches, jewelry, porcelain, and since 1951, also perfumes.
The company logo featuring the horse-drawn carriage, used since the early 50s, is a reminder of its origins.
After some tumultuous years with ups and downs, the company went public in 1993. In 2014, it achieved a revenue of 4.11 billion euros.
A bitter aftertaste for me comes from the information that the large luxury goods conglomerate LVMH (which includes Dior and Guerlain) attempted a hostile takeover through significant stock purchases, which was thwarted by some strategic moves from the Hermès family. The competition and pressure for success in the market must be immense.
But this makes me reflect a bit on the huge corporations. Greed and the constant urge for more are not good traits.
The fragrance Equipage was launched in 1970 and is for me the epitome of a classic men's fragrance.
Citrus notes open the scent, floral and spicy notes accompany it, while woody and mossy accords form the supportive base.
Here it becomes clear once again how much I am inclined towards fragrances with a chypre character. The rather serious nature of chypres is also present in Equipage, but chypres don't have to be overly cheerful.
And Equipage has a very warm heart due to its spicy notes.
When I think of the perfumer, I am not particularly surprised that the fragrance brings me great enthusiasm. Guy Robert, whose fragrance portfolio is not particularly extensive, but remarkable. He created not only Calèche for Hermès, another great chypre, but also Dioressence, the most complete and beautiful chypre for me.
Thus, the opening of Equipage is already classic, with light citrus notes, a certain hint of soapiness, and a portion of spice. Over time, floral notes become noticeable, but they do not really stand out; they merely provide a certain lightness. The clove is perhaps a bit more perceptible.
Later, it becomes a little woody-mossy, and the basic structure of a chypre fragrance is clearly recognizable. A good pinch of cinnamon has been dusted over everything, which further emphasizes the warm character.
While the fragrance seems rather serious to me, it is paired with a lightness that is hard to describe.
Equipage is not a scent that shouts loudly and tries to attract attention with an overwhelming fragrance veil. For me, these are not true quality characteristics. The subtle tones that are struck here, the unobtrusive presence, and the restraint fit much better with the fragrance and also with me.
And the fragrance is not exhausting, never becomes intrusive or heavy, is never too much, and radiates a wonderful mature elegance. A beautiful anchor of calm that is so comforting in such unpleasant and chaotic times as the present.
After I received a sample of the beautiful fragrance some time ago and was able to sniff it again after a long time, I considered acquiring Equipage as a vintage. Because in the unreformulated version, the fragrance is indeed the decisive note more beautiful, fuller, and rounder. The reformulation is good, but it lacks crucial properties and components that make vintage versions so special. Real oakmoss and other essences that are either frowned upon today or no longer available.
Anyone who wants to indulge in a bit of calm and consistency away from the loud and sometimes exhausting modern creations is warmly recommended Equipage. This fragrance comes without much fuss and doesn't need to prove anything to anyone and requires no hype. Because it doesn't need to.
I would like to thank Pollita very much for the sample and for allowing me to refresh and deepen an old acquaintance.
But there are also fragrance directions that are the exact opposite and simply have a soothing effect because they are pleasantly and harmoniously composed and never stand out unpleasantly.
There were times when straightforward scents were created according to a classic pattern.
This includes many fragrances from the traditional house of Hermès.
Hermès was founded in 1837 as a business for saddles, harnesses, and other horse gear. Later, other leather goods such as suitcases and handbags were added. Over the years, Hermès developed into a luxury goods company with ready-to-wear, watches, jewelry, porcelain, and since 1951, also perfumes.
The company logo featuring the horse-drawn carriage, used since the early 50s, is a reminder of its origins.
After some tumultuous years with ups and downs, the company went public in 1993. In 2014, it achieved a revenue of 4.11 billion euros.
A bitter aftertaste for me comes from the information that the large luxury goods conglomerate LVMH (which includes Dior and Guerlain) attempted a hostile takeover through significant stock purchases, which was thwarted by some strategic moves from the Hermès family. The competition and pressure for success in the market must be immense.
But this makes me reflect a bit on the huge corporations. Greed and the constant urge for more are not good traits.
The fragrance Equipage was launched in 1970 and is for me the epitome of a classic men's fragrance.
Citrus notes open the scent, floral and spicy notes accompany it, while woody and mossy accords form the supportive base.
Here it becomes clear once again how much I am inclined towards fragrances with a chypre character. The rather serious nature of chypres is also present in Equipage, but chypres don't have to be overly cheerful.
And Equipage has a very warm heart due to its spicy notes.
When I think of the perfumer, I am not particularly surprised that the fragrance brings me great enthusiasm. Guy Robert, whose fragrance portfolio is not particularly extensive, but remarkable. He created not only Calèche for Hermès, another great chypre, but also Dioressence, the most complete and beautiful chypre for me.
Thus, the opening of Equipage is already classic, with light citrus notes, a certain hint of soapiness, and a portion of spice. Over time, floral notes become noticeable, but they do not really stand out; they merely provide a certain lightness. The clove is perhaps a bit more perceptible.
Later, it becomes a little woody-mossy, and the basic structure of a chypre fragrance is clearly recognizable. A good pinch of cinnamon has been dusted over everything, which further emphasizes the warm character.
While the fragrance seems rather serious to me, it is paired with a lightness that is hard to describe.
Equipage is not a scent that shouts loudly and tries to attract attention with an overwhelming fragrance veil. For me, these are not true quality characteristics. The subtle tones that are struck here, the unobtrusive presence, and the restraint fit much better with the fragrance and also with me.
And the fragrance is not exhausting, never becomes intrusive or heavy, is never too much, and radiates a wonderful mature elegance. A beautiful anchor of calm that is so comforting in such unpleasant and chaotic times as the present.
After I received a sample of the beautiful fragrance some time ago and was able to sniff it again after a long time, I considered acquiring Equipage as a vintage. Because in the unreformulated version, the fragrance is indeed the decisive note more beautiful, fuller, and rounder. The reformulation is good, but it lacks crucial properties and components that make vintage versions so special. Real oakmoss and other essences that are either frowned upon today or no longer available.
Anyone who wants to indulge in a bit of calm and consistency away from the loud and sometimes exhausting modern creations is warmly recommended Equipage. This fragrance comes without much fuss and doesn't need to prove anything to anyone and requires no hype. Because it doesn't need to.
I would like to thank Pollita very much for the sample and for allowing me to refresh and deepen an old acquaintance.
43 Comments
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Who complains must also be able to praise
Recently, a small travel package arrived at my place, which included 9 fragrances from the still relatively young fragrance label Miguel Matos.
Miguel Matos hails from Portugal, has been a perfume critic on Fragrantica since 2013, and has also been working as a perfumer for several years. It is remarkable that he has acquired his skills autodidactically and, unlike many other renowned perfumers, has not undergone a long formal education. I have great respect for anyone who does not shy away from challenges.
And in my eyes, creating fragrances is a significant challenge.
However, testing some fragrances can also sometimes become a challenge...
He has created fragrances for Sarah Baker, Nishane, and Bruno Acampora, and since 2018, fragrances under his own name have also been available.
After eagerly testing the 9 fragrances from Senhor Matos, I initially thought, phew, these fragrances are quite a statement. You really can't call these works light fare.
In my statements about them, I have sometimes grumbled quite a bit about the fragrances.
I rarely get along well with fragrances that seem wildly composed to me. The works of Miguel Matos are very avant-garde and experimental. And I cannot deny that they are a bit too exhausting for me.
Mineral, leathery, and animalistic components are often used and mixed with spice, sweetness, and floral notes. To me, the fragrances come across as rather cumbersome and somewhat inaccessible.
Very few of the fragrances matched my taste, and I rated them accordingly strictly.
But I also want to mention the pleasant surprises.
And the fragrance Silver Stone is one of those.
From the tested range, I actually like this fragrance the best, even though it doesn't completely align with my usual taste.
Silver Stone is a skillful mix of floral notes, green aspects, and a mineral-like freshness, along with a distinct leather note.
Leather, my old enemy. I feared the worst... But my fears were unfounded.
The fragrance starts off floral and green right away, and the mineral-like tone is almost immediately present.
The comparison of Ergoproxy with the heated stone wall with herbs is spot on.
Here and there, the floral notes emerge again, but none stands out particularly.
A portion of oakmoss provides a chypre coloring, and after a while, the leather note comes into play. Normally, leather sends me fleeing, but I must acknowledge that it fits perfectly with the fragrance here. It is often said that a fragrance needs a counterpoint to the other notes, a certain edge, a bit of grit, to remain interesting. The leather does that here, without ever coming across as piercing to me.
It ensures that the fragrance does not become arbitrary. And I really like the overall picture.
I actually wouldn't want to describe the overall picture as spicy-leathery, because in my nose, leather does not play the leading role. The description spicy-green with leathery accompaniment would be more accurate.
That a certain synthetic hint hovers over everything cannot be denied either, but it fits perfectly with the experimental concept.
And when synthetics are well processed, I get along well with them.
The whole thing also has very good longevity, and the fragrance is quite present in the first 2 hours. One should not overdo it with the dosage.
Silver Stone is unlikely to become a candidate for purchase for me, as it ultimately does not seem practical enough for everyday use, but I still wanted to mention the pleasant surprise amidst the grumbling.
However, as a testing experience, the fragrances are definitely a great enrichment and an exciting discovery.
I sincerely thank Kovex for providing the travel package and for the opportunity to get to know this remarkable brand!
Miguel Matos hails from Portugal, has been a perfume critic on Fragrantica since 2013, and has also been working as a perfumer for several years. It is remarkable that he has acquired his skills autodidactically and, unlike many other renowned perfumers, has not undergone a long formal education. I have great respect for anyone who does not shy away from challenges.
And in my eyes, creating fragrances is a significant challenge.
However, testing some fragrances can also sometimes become a challenge...
He has created fragrances for Sarah Baker, Nishane, and Bruno Acampora, and since 2018, fragrances under his own name have also been available.
After eagerly testing the 9 fragrances from Senhor Matos, I initially thought, phew, these fragrances are quite a statement. You really can't call these works light fare.
In my statements about them, I have sometimes grumbled quite a bit about the fragrances.
I rarely get along well with fragrances that seem wildly composed to me. The works of Miguel Matos are very avant-garde and experimental. And I cannot deny that they are a bit too exhausting for me.
Mineral, leathery, and animalistic components are often used and mixed with spice, sweetness, and floral notes. To me, the fragrances come across as rather cumbersome and somewhat inaccessible.
Very few of the fragrances matched my taste, and I rated them accordingly strictly.
But I also want to mention the pleasant surprises.
And the fragrance Silver Stone is one of those.
From the tested range, I actually like this fragrance the best, even though it doesn't completely align with my usual taste.
Silver Stone is a skillful mix of floral notes, green aspects, and a mineral-like freshness, along with a distinct leather note.
Leather, my old enemy. I feared the worst... But my fears were unfounded.
The fragrance starts off floral and green right away, and the mineral-like tone is almost immediately present.
The comparison of Ergoproxy with the heated stone wall with herbs is spot on.
Here and there, the floral notes emerge again, but none stands out particularly.
A portion of oakmoss provides a chypre coloring, and after a while, the leather note comes into play. Normally, leather sends me fleeing, but I must acknowledge that it fits perfectly with the fragrance here. It is often said that a fragrance needs a counterpoint to the other notes, a certain edge, a bit of grit, to remain interesting. The leather does that here, without ever coming across as piercing to me.
It ensures that the fragrance does not become arbitrary. And I really like the overall picture.
I actually wouldn't want to describe the overall picture as spicy-leathery, because in my nose, leather does not play the leading role. The description spicy-green with leathery accompaniment would be more accurate.
That a certain synthetic hint hovers over everything cannot be denied either, but it fits perfectly with the experimental concept.
And when synthetics are well processed, I get along well with them.
The whole thing also has very good longevity, and the fragrance is quite present in the first 2 hours. One should not overdo it with the dosage.
Silver Stone is unlikely to become a candidate for purchase for me, as it ultimately does not seem practical enough for everyday use, but I still wanted to mention the pleasant surprise amidst the grumbling.
However, as a testing experience, the fragrances are definitely a great enrichment and an exciting discovery.
I sincerely thank Kovex for providing the travel package and for the opportunity to get to know this remarkable brand!
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