SchatzSucher
Reviews
Filter & sort
SchatzSucher
Translated
Show original
In the mood for spring
The series "Les Exclusifs de Chanel" is a homage to Coco Chanel. Each fragrance in the series introduces a chapter from the life of Coco Chanel (1883 - 1971):
Be it, for example, an address (31 Rue Cambon, the location of their Haute Couture Salon opened in 1918),
be it a name (Misia, after Misia Sert, a patron of renowned artists in Paris and close friend of Coco Chanel),
be it a date (1932, the year in which Coco Chanel presented her luxurious diamond jewelry collection in her private apartment),
be it a fabric (Jersey, Coco Chanel often used cotton jersey and helped this fabric to a big breakthrough in the fashion world, since jersey was previously used almost exclusively for underwear),
be it a color (beige, this color was Coco Chanel's favorite)
or be it a building, Bel Respiro, the name of her spring residence in Garches, a community near Paris.
Coco Chanel retired there from time to time in spring to relax and be inspired.
Now Jacques Polge has tried to capture these impressions of a picturesque landscape with a lot of greenery in one fragrance.
First, Bel Respiro was released in 2007 as Eau de Toilette, which I was able to get to know a short time ago. In 2016 the fragrances from the Exclusif series were revised and the fragrances were relaunched as Eau de Parfum.
Some revisions were not to my complete satisfaction, as I could read here and there. The Edp versions often lack that certain something.
But now I don't want to talk about the well-known topic of revisions, this is getting tedious and everybody has his own opinion on the topic.
I got to know the EdT some time ago and rated it as very good. It is a fragrance that fully meets my taste. Green freshness, floral and a soft and creamy looking course.
The distinct green impression is mainly due to the use of galbanum, a fragrance that I like exceptionally well. Galbanum is obtained from so-called stick herbs, a group of umbellifers, which often produce very aromatic spices (fennel, anise, parsley, caraway, angelica), but also very poisonous plants (hemlock, giant hogweed). It is often very difficult to differentiate between them, as these plants are very similar in their external appearance.
Galbanum is used in some very famous and outstanding fragrances, such as Chanel N°19, Vol de Nuit, Miss Dior (the one from 1947 and 1992), Yatagan, to name a few examples.
The fragrance has something balsamic, spicy and an unmistakable, slightly crisp green hue.
Bel Respiro does not appear creaky at all. For the galbanum is joined by mild notes reminiscent of fresh grass, a herbaceous impression appears and a certain floweriness is perceived. I cannot define this any further. But I suspect that a trace of white flowers has been used, flowers that are best shown to advantage in spring
Later in the process a fine trace of leather is added, but it is so soft and discreet that it is never noticeable in the foreground and therefore never bothers me. Because leather meets with great rejection in most cases. Here it is used accurately and completely unobtrusive
Bel Respiro remains cheerful and friendly at every stage of its course. A gloomy and serious mood would hardly suit a spring scent either.
Now I have here the EdP, which recently came to me through a sharing. There are some differences to the EdT, even if they are only minimal.
The EdP is altogether a little quieter than the EdT and looks more lovely and flowery as I go along, while the EdT is altogether a little more harsh and grassy.
The prelude is identical for both. With the EdT the fine leather note comes out a bit more, while with the EdP it remains more subtle or is hardly noticeable at all.
The two variants also differ slightly in terms of durability. Since both fragrances are not of a loud and demanding nature, they are not record-breaking in durability either. But I don't expect that from the silent representatives either.
The EdT can be perceived by me for about 7 hours and the EdP ends after a good 6 hours with me.
My conclusion:
With Bel Respiro they have created a really beautiful spring scent, which has a consistently cheerful and pleasant effect on me. The impression of Chanel's spring residence has been well captured in a fragrance here. The impressions of a beautiful green landscape surrounding the property, some bushes are already in full bloom, the sun sends warming rays, the stay outside is just fun.
As a beautiful, uncomplicated everyday companion, I can imagine Bel Respiro very well.
And I am also of the opinion that the fragrance is equally suitable for Him and Her. However, I am also of the opinion with some other fragrances from the Exclusif series
I have not yet had the bottles in my hand, except for a mini. But they look very beautiful to me in their simple and straightforward elegance
I rate both fragrances equally well, even though the EdT is a little bit ahead of the rest because it is a little more multi-faceted.
My thanks go to Mefunx for the EdT rehearsal and to BeatriceA, who organized the sharing for the EdP so great.
And with these lines, which I hope will be pleasant for you, I wish you all a happy Easter. Even if 2020 is so different from what we are used to...
Be it, for example, an address (31 Rue Cambon, the location of their Haute Couture Salon opened in 1918),
be it a name (Misia, after Misia Sert, a patron of renowned artists in Paris and close friend of Coco Chanel),
be it a date (1932, the year in which Coco Chanel presented her luxurious diamond jewelry collection in her private apartment),
be it a fabric (Jersey, Coco Chanel often used cotton jersey and helped this fabric to a big breakthrough in the fashion world, since jersey was previously used almost exclusively for underwear),
be it a color (beige, this color was Coco Chanel's favorite)
or be it a building, Bel Respiro, the name of her spring residence in Garches, a community near Paris.
Coco Chanel retired there from time to time in spring to relax and be inspired.
Now Jacques Polge has tried to capture these impressions of a picturesque landscape with a lot of greenery in one fragrance.
First, Bel Respiro was released in 2007 as Eau de Toilette, which I was able to get to know a short time ago. In 2016 the fragrances from the Exclusif series were revised and the fragrances were relaunched as Eau de Parfum.
Some revisions were not to my complete satisfaction, as I could read here and there. The Edp versions often lack that certain something.
But now I don't want to talk about the well-known topic of revisions, this is getting tedious and everybody has his own opinion on the topic.
I got to know the EdT some time ago and rated it as very good. It is a fragrance that fully meets my taste. Green freshness, floral and a soft and creamy looking course.
The distinct green impression is mainly due to the use of galbanum, a fragrance that I like exceptionally well. Galbanum is obtained from so-called stick herbs, a group of umbellifers, which often produce very aromatic spices (fennel, anise, parsley, caraway, angelica), but also very poisonous plants (hemlock, giant hogweed). It is often very difficult to differentiate between them, as these plants are very similar in their external appearance.
Galbanum is used in some very famous and outstanding fragrances, such as Chanel N°19, Vol de Nuit, Miss Dior (the one from 1947 and 1992), Yatagan, to name a few examples.
The fragrance has something balsamic, spicy and an unmistakable, slightly crisp green hue.
Bel Respiro does not appear creaky at all. For the galbanum is joined by mild notes reminiscent of fresh grass, a herbaceous impression appears and a certain floweriness is perceived. I cannot define this any further. But I suspect that a trace of white flowers has been used, flowers that are best shown to advantage in spring
Later in the process a fine trace of leather is added, but it is so soft and discreet that it is never noticeable in the foreground and therefore never bothers me. Because leather meets with great rejection in most cases. Here it is used accurately and completely unobtrusive
Bel Respiro remains cheerful and friendly at every stage of its course. A gloomy and serious mood would hardly suit a spring scent either.
Now I have here the EdP, which recently came to me through a sharing. There are some differences to the EdT, even if they are only minimal.
The EdP is altogether a little quieter than the EdT and looks more lovely and flowery as I go along, while the EdT is altogether a little more harsh and grassy.
The prelude is identical for both. With the EdT the fine leather note comes out a bit more, while with the EdP it remains more subtle or is hardly noticeable at all.
The two variants also differ slightly in terms of durability. Since both fragrances are not of a loud and demanding nature, they are not record-breaking in durability either. But I don't expect that from the silent representatives either.
The EdT can be perceived by me for about 7 hours and the EdP ends after a good 6 hours with me.
My conclusion:
With Bel Respiro they have created a really beautiful spring scent, which has a consistently cheerful and pleasant effect on me. The impression of Chanel's spring residence has been well captured in a fragrance here. The impressions of a beautiful green landscape surrounding the property, some bushes are already in full bloom, the sun sends warming rays, the stay outside is just fun.
As a beautiful, uncomplicated everyday companion, I can imagine Bel Respiro very well.
And I am also of the opinion that the fragrance is equally suitable for Him and Her. However, I am also of the opinion with some other fragrances from the Exclusif series
I have not yet had the bottles in my hand, except for a mini. But they look very beautiful to me in their simple and straightforward elegance
I rate both fragrances equally well, even though the EdT is a little bit ahead of the rest because it is a little more multi-faceted.
My thanks go to Mefunx for the EdT rehearsal and to BeatriceA, who organized the sharing for the EdP so great.
And with these lines, which I hope will be pleasant for you, I wish you all a happy Easter. Even if 2020 is so different from what we are used to...
40 Comments
Translated
Show original
Confidence and hope in a bottle
At the moment, like many of us at home, I'm condemned to do nothing, and since I don't feel like thinking about whether my little one-man business will survive all this, I prefer to occupy myself with beautiful fragrances and a little journey through time, and with many a thought that goes through my mind.
Back to a time that many can hardly imagine, except through reports and stories from older relatives and acquaintances who have experienced this live.
1948, a time when the world was still ravaged by the consequences of the Second World War and the reconstruction of cities, the economy and political structures was intensive. The restoration of a certain order. A time when things were anything but smooth in Germany, as the four allied powers that administered Germany increasingly came into conflict, which then culminated in the Berlin blockade and a currency reform.
And as we know, a little later Germany divided into two republics for a good 40 years.
Nevertheless, the intention was not to deal only with uncomfortable topics, because with the reconstruction and restructuring of the world, the sense of beauty also reawakened.
Nina Ricci (1883 - 1970, under her real name Maria Adélaide Nielli) founded her fashion house in Paris together with her son Robert in 1932. As one of the few she was already able to assert herself in the fashion world with her romantic and feminine designs shortly after the world economic crisis in 1929.
In 1946, the fragrance Coeur Joie was launched on the market under her name. But much greater fame was achieved by L'Air du Temps, released in 1948, which still enjoys great popularity today.
And rightly so, I would argue
By the way, Romano Ricci, the founder of Juliette Has A Gun, is the great-grandson of Nina Ricci.
L'Air du Temps is a splendid and rich floral-spicy fragrance with a very special magic. It starts with the bottle, which was originally designed by Marc Lalique.
And the flacon, with its doves of peace, perfectly symbolizes this restless and contradictory time with its aberrations and the desire for peace and contentment. Even though the cap is now made of plastic, I still admire this enchantingly beautifully designed flacon time and again.
The scent is just as enchanting.
Already the start is very flowery, the heart notes appear together with the top notes, a little bergamot is noticeable in the floral abundance, in addition many spices, I mean to perceive among other things some cinnamon, because I feel a nice warmth. The flowers unfold more and more, but the carnation with its unmistakable scent, which always brings a slight pungency, is the dominant note. A little bit of lily and ylang-ylang I perceive still underlining. This floweriness is without any sweetness and seems very mature to me. But I can recognize its grace and friendliness
Later the warm and spicy impression is deepened by traces of wood and a hint of resin and moss. This could be a hint of chypre, but for me L'Air du Temps is not chypre in the strict sense. The moss in the base is not pronounced enough for this, the typical chypre resin and that certain strictness inherent in chypre scents are missing. And L'Air du Temps also makes a rather soapy impression.
The fragrance is wonderfully composed, as no note disturbs or seems unround to me.
For me, L'Air du Temps is a very touching fragrance, as a certain melancholy floats through the entire composition. A melancholy that arises when one reflects on past times and looks into an uncertain future. In my eyes, the fragrance and bottle embody this very well
That time, the errors and confusion in the world, the insecurity, many cuts and losses that people had to accept. Much that was ended in a drastic way and a sign for a completely new beginning, connected with the great hope for better and more beautiful times
The name is also perfectly chosen, Zeitgeist, is the literal translation. The spirit of the times was full of hope and thus a bridge has been built to today. Because somehow everything repeats itself in one way or another.
At the moment we are all vacillating between hope and fear, hoping that this nerve-racking and gruelling time will end as soon as possible.
Outside there is just beautiful spring weather and the first spring blossoms can already be seen here and there. And yet there is always this intangible threat, healthwise, economically, personally. And I always find myself thinking about other times. Even if it was always restless at that time and sometimes one did not know how everything should go on.
And then there is often a fragrance that can't conjure away hard times, but may give some comfort and confidence for a while. And in these moments you wish that time would stand still for a moment
I don't want to go back to the year 1948 now, but 2020 isn't much fun either, and we will probably have imagined it differently...
Nevertheless, we still have hope, confidence and positive thoughts. And no one can say how many people have sought refuge in this very fragrance and have enjoyed the 72 years that the fragrance has been on the market.
Here I can't give anything else but the full score for this soul scent.
And with many positive thoughts I wish all dear sniffers the very best! May we survive this nightmare as quickly as possible and without major injuries.
Thanks for reading.
Back to a time that many can hardly imagine, except through reports and stories from older relatives and acquaintances who have experienced this live.
1948, a time when the world was still ravaged by the consequences of the Second World War and the reconstruction of cities, the economy and political structures was intensive. The restoration of a certain order. A time when things were anything but smooth in Germany, as the four allied powers that administered Germany increasingly came into conflict, which then culminated in the Berlin blockade and a currency reform.
And as we know, a little later Germany divided into two republics for a good 40 years.
Nevertheless, the intention was not to deal only with uncomfortable topics, because with the reconstruction and restructuring of the world, the sense of beauty also reawakened.
Nina Ricci (1883 - 1970, under her real name Maria Adélaide Nielli) founded her fashion house in Paris together with her son Robert in 1932. As one of the few she was already able to assert herself in the fashion world with her romantic and feminine designs shortly after the world economic crisis in 1929.
In 1946, the fragrance Coeur Joie was launched on the market under her name. But much greater fame was achieved by L'Air du Temps, released in 1948, which still enjoys great popularity today.
And rightly so, I would argue
By the way, Romano Ricci, the founder of Juliette Has A Gun, is the great-grandson of Nina Ricci.
L'Air du Temps is a splendid and rich floral-spicy fragrance with a very special magic. It starts with the bottle, which was originally designed by Marc Lalique.
And the flacon, with its doves of peace, perfectly symbolizes this restless and contradictory time with its aberrations and the desire for peace and contentment. Even though the cap is now made of plastic, I still admire this enchantingly beautifully designed flacon time and again.
The scent is just as enchanting.
Already the start is very flowery, the heart notes appear together with the top notes, a little bergamot is noticeable in the floral abundance, in addition many spices, I mean to perceive among other things some cinnamon, because I feel a nice warmth. The flowers unfold more and more, but the carnation with its unmistakable scent, which always brings a slight pungency, is the dominant note. A little bit of lily and ylang-ylang I perceive still underlining. This floweriness is without any sweetness and seems very mature to me. But I can recognize its grace and friendliness
Later the warm and spicy impression is deepened by traces of wood and a hint of resin and moss. This could be a hint of chypre, but for me L'Air du Temps is not chypre in the strict sense. The moss in the base is not pronounced enough for this, the typical chypre resin and that certain strictness inherent in chypre scents are missing. And L'Air du Temps also makes a rather soapy impression.
The fragrance is wonderfully composed, as no note disturbs or seems unround to me.
For me, L'Air du Temps is a very touching fragrance, as a certain melancholy floats through the entire composition. A melancholy that arises when one reflects on past times and looks into an uncertain future. In my eyes, the fragrance and bottle embody this very well
That time, the errors and confusion in the world, the insecurity, many cuts and losses that people had to accept. Much that was ended in a drastic way and a sign for a completely new beginning, connected with the great hope for better and more beautiful times
The name is also perfectly chosen, Zeitgeist, is the literal translation. The spirit of the times was full of hope and thus a bridge has been built to today. Because somehow everything repeats itself in one way or another.
At the moment we are all vacillating between hope and fear, hoping that this nerve-racking and gruelling time will end as soon as possible.
Outside there is just beautiful spring weather and the first spring blossoms can already be seen here and there. And yet there is always this intangible threat, healthwise, economically, personally. And I always find myself thinking about other times. Even if it was always restless at that time and sometimes one did not know how everything should go on.
And then there is often a fragrance that can't conjure away hard times, but may give some comfort and confidence for a while. And in these moments you wish that time would stand still for a moment
I don't want to go back to the year 1948 now, but 2020 isn't much fun either, and we will probably have imagined it differently...
Nevertheless, we still have hope, confidence and positive thoughts. And no one can say how many people have sought refuge in this very fragrance and have enjoyed the 72 years that the fragrance has been on the market.
Here I can't give anything else but the full score for this soul scent.
And with many positive thoughts I wish all dear sniffers the very best! May we survive this nightmare as quickly as possible and without major injuries.
Thanks for reading.
50 Comments
Translated
Show original
A nice recipe against weather blues
The last days or rather weeks have been quite a challenge from a weather point of view. One really had to ask oneself if one should leave the house in a wetsuit and with lead weights on the feet or should rather push the cupboard in front of the door to let the misery pass by completely isolated. Additionally, during the stay in the fresh air there were repeatedely new hairstyle suggestions for free, storm hairstyle could be really taken literally. It felt like an endless lead-grey twilight that covered the minds like mildew. And with the amount of rain one was already tempted to think if one should be drowned...
Now just today you can see this strange bright thing in the sky, what was it called again... Lamp??
And suddenly the idle mood has risen by a few degrees, parallel to the temperatures. I can't find a suitable term for this time of the year, or rather for this state of affairs. Actually, it's nice to be cold at this time of year. For my sake it may snow. But obviously you can't have any weather up there anymore or the old folks can't handle modern technology. Who knows...
Now, in such a miserable time, one either yearns for cheerful, bright spring scents that will conjure up a little sunshine in our minds and flatter us with lovely flower scents and/or delicate fresh green, or one surrenders and looks out for comfortably warming cuddly scents that enchant us with warm spices, gourmand tones and sweet tones.
I have now decided on the second option. And what could happen to me there more beautiful than Stardust from Mrs. Neuffer?
A fragrance made for slippery weather, wind force 11, mountains of clouds and gloom.
I was given the opportunity to get to know each other better by lending me a bottle.
And this getting to know each other has been most gratifying.
In the fragrances of Mrs. Neuffer one can very well recognize a very own handwriting. I mean to identify this mainly in the prelude. And in the meantime I have already got to know a lot of scents from the Neuffer company
It is that certain note of beeswax, spice, citrus notes and resinous sweetness. I do not like this note in all Neuffer fragrances. Sometimes they seem too heavy and oily to me and I am often reminded of those oriental shops, with incense sticks, scented oils and many spices hanging heavy in the air. Or of Christmassy aromas, which fit very well into the cold season, but which are not really suitable for me as perfume.
But Stardust has this note only quite short and not as expansive as many other fragrances from her hand.
The citrus notes are clearly perceptible, seeming somewhat darker than usual here. They are also not too sweet, but in any case they have the ability to cheer up the mood. The spicy beeswax note is also immediately present, but does not overlay everything.
That's really nice. The fragrance then very quickly develops a wonderful deliciously chocolaty direction, which is supported by sparingly used floral accompaniments.
I very clearly smell a triad of cocoa, patchouli and vanilla. But these aromas are not overpoweringly sweet either. The vanilla pushes itself into the foreground and plays around with the chocolate note as if it wanted to say "Make room for me!"
This Stardust vanilla is of a rather darker nature, it radiates a beautiful warmth, just as the entire fragrance is surrounded by a pleasant and soothing warmth.
The spicy and resinous notes additionally support the whole thing, but also fit harmoniously into the overall picture.
Stardust, despite its gourmand notes, is not a fragrance that makes me feel like I'm covered in tons of frosting and it doesn't just smell sweet and sugary. Here and there Mrs. Neuffer has worked in a few nice edges to make the fragrance not too monotonous and to refine the gourmand sweetness with a few tart undertones.
All this has a wonderful durability, I can perceive the scent for a good 9 hours, and despite a certain opulence, which cannot be denied, the scent does not die.
Whether or not you would like to experience natural scents, everyone can decide for themselves. But I think that one should try these scents. They are very different from the classic perfumery craft
It goes without saying that not everyone likes this style
I would like to place Stardust more in the cold season, because I cannot imagine this warm spicy character in summer very well. But in dirty weather and cold this fine fragrance comes just right.
It would be nice to have a fireplace, which I unfortunately do not have, a jumbo cup of hot cocoa, clothes to live in, nice music and a good book. And of course Stardust, so that you can forget the world for a while.
Besides, the scent is completely suitable for men. I find the classification as a women's fragrance a bit misleading, because the fragrance has a completely unisex effect on me.
The scent cannot carry me to the stars now, but the feel-good atmosphere it spreads makes me purr comfortably in any case. And dull days are a whole corner brighter
As I write these lines, the sky is actually turning grey again and the next low pressure system is approaching. So quickly reach for Stardust :-)
I thank our wonderful 0815abc from the bottom of my heart for providing the lovely!
Now just today you can see this strange bright thing in the sky, what was it called again... Lamp??
And suddenly the idle mood has risen by a few degrees, parallel to the temperatures. I can't find a suitable term for this time of the year, or rather for this state of affairs. Actually, it's nice to be cold at this time of year. For my sake it may snow. But obviously you can't have any weather up there anymore or the old folks can't handle modern technology. Who knows...
Now, in such a miserable time, one either yearns for cheerful, bright spring scents that will conjure up a little sunshine in our minds and flatter us with lovely flower scents and/or delicate fresh green, or one surrenders and looks out for comfortably warming cuddly scents that enchant us with warm spices, gourmand tones and sweet tones.
I have now decided on the second option. And what could happen to me there more beautiful than Stardust from Mrs. Neuffer?
A fragrance made for slippery weather, wind force 11, mountains of clouds and gloom.
I was given the opportunity to get to know each other better by lending me a bottle.
And this getting to know each other has been most gratifying.
In the fragrances of Mrs. Neuffer one can very well recognize a very own handwriting. I mean to identify this mainly in the prelude. And in the meantime I have already got to know a lot of scents from the Neuffer company
It is that certain note of beeswax, spice, citrus notes and resinous sweetness. I do not like this note in all Neuffer fragrances. Sometimes they seem too heavy and oily to me and I am often reminded of those oriental shops, with incense sticks, scented oils and many spices hanging heavy in the air. Or of Christmassy aromas, which fit very well into the cold season, but which are not really suitable for me as perfume.
But Stardust has this note only quite short and not as expansive as many other fragrances from her hand.
The citrus notes are clearly perceptible, seeming somewhat darker than usual here. They are also not too sweet, but in any case they have the ability to cheer up the mood. The spicy beeswax note is also immediately present, but does not overlay everything.
That's really nice. The fragrance then very quickly develops a wonderful deliciously chocolaty direction, which is supported by sparingly used floral accompaniments.
I very clearly smell a triad of cocoa, patchouli and vanilla. But these aromas are not overpoweringly sweet either. The vanilla pushes itself into the foreground and plays around with the chocolate note as if it wanted to say "Make room for me!"
This Stardust vanilla is of a rather darker nature, it radiates a beautiful warmth, just as the entire fragrance is surrounded by a pleasant and soothing warmth.
The spicy and resinous notes additionally support the whole thing, but also fit harmoniously into the overall picture.
Stardust, despite its gourmand notes, is not a fragrance that makes me feel like I'm covered in tons of frosting and it doesn't just smell sweet and sugary. Here and there Mrs. Neuffer has worked in a few nice edges to make the fragrance not too monotonous and to refine the gourmand sweetness with a few tart undertones.
All this has a wonderful durability, I can perceive the scent for a good 9 hours, and despite a certain opulence, which cannot be denied, the scent does not die.
Whether or not you would like to experience natural scents, everyone can decide for themselves. But I think that one should try these scents. They are very different from the classic perfumery craft
It goes without saying that not everyone likes this style
I would like to place Stardust more in the cold season, because I cannot imagine this warm spicy character in summer very well. But in dirty weather and cold this fine fragrance comes just right.
It would be nice to have a fireplace, which I unfortunately do not have, a jumbo cup of hot cocoa, clothes to live in, nice music and a good book. And of course Stardust, so that you can forget the world for a while.
Besides, the scent is completely suitable for men. I find the classification as a women's fragrance a bit misleading, because the fragrance has a completely unisex effect on me.
The scent cannot carry me to the stars now, but the feel-good atmosphere it spreads makes me purr comfortably in any case. And dull days are a whole corner brighter
As I write these lines, the sky is actually turning grey again and the next low pressure system is approaching. So quickly reach for Stardust :-)
I thank our wonderful 0815abc from the bottom of my heart for providing the lovely!
33 Comments
Translated
Show original
The bee may fly on with pleasure
A good one and a half years ago, when I first registered here, I didn't even know the scents from the zoologist. My scent horizon was still very limited and I had picked up the term niche by the way. But once you are entangled here in the big, tightly woven net, you are hopelessly lost and sometimes the most unbelievable scents come to your nose.
Some you run away screaming and others conjure up a blissful mood.
The Canadian brand Zoologist based in Toronto is still relatively young, it was only founded in 2013 by Victor Wong.
The aim is to capture and express the peculiarities of all kinds of animals, on water, on land or in the air, living or extinct, through the scents. Be these peculiarities beautiful, funny or even shocking, all this is reflected very well in the really extraordinary creations.
I have already tested some fragrances and can confirm that they are really anything but commonplace. However, they have not caused the greatest enthusiasm in me so far.
It failed in the first place because of the wearability of the fragrances. And that is an important criterion for me
What good is a high-quality and well-crafted fragrance if I can't find an opportunity to wear it or if I don't feel comfortable with the fragrance? Prices and the more or less complicated procurement options also play a role that should not be underestimated. But I do not want to go into that now.
Now recently Bee came to me, the very latest creation from the house of Zoologist. The name already suggested a rather sweet scent with honey as main note, without me having had a look at the pyramid of scents before.
But Bee is not just honey sweet, there are other notes, because simply and simply there is no such thing as a zoologist.
I read here about an association with forest honey. I can also confirm this. Forest honey is now the type of honey that I like least, as it is too bitter and tart. Goes at most times in the tea.
The honey note is present from the beginning and is also very sweet. However, the sweetness becomes harsher and darker relatively quickly, as spicy and resinous notes are quickly introduced and the sweetness is dampened a little. Then the smell reminds me very much of forest honey
Floral notes remain in the background and do not play a particularly important role during the whole process. They seem to me more like pollen, because Bee also seems very dry to me.
In addition, the honey seems to be provided with plenty of beeswax.
The spicy notes give me a little bit the impression of an oriental or hippie shop with all kinds of incense sticks and scented oils, even if this impression is not very strong. That cushions the sweetness a little bit additionally.
The fragrance then also sounds resinous and spicy. Above all, there is a distinct warmth, which is why I see the fragrance best in the cold season. In summer this could be too luxuriant.
The shelf life is excellent, 10 hours are easily in it. And Bee should be dosed as sparingly as possible, it is very dense and takes up a lot of space. One sprayer is already more than sufficient for me.
And that is unfortunately also the point that leads to the fact that Bee is not a candidate for purchase for me. As great as the fragrance is made and as much as I appreciate the concept, I'm afraid the bee would get on my nerves within a short time. I miss a certain lightness in the fragrance. It is lush, heavy and concentrated, thick almost enough to cut. And the bee resembles for me rather a quite thick bumblebee.
All in all, Bee is a really very well composed scent and I guess it is one of the most accessible scents of zoologist, but the great bliss did not come to me, even though I did not have to run away screaming from the scent.
To all those who think Bee is great, of course I wish them a lot of joy with the fragrance!
I like to let the bee fly on.
My thanks go to Pollita, who made the first encounter with the bee possible for me, and to Jakobolino, through him I could deepen the acquaintance a little more.
Let's see what other zoologists have to tell me on occasion.
Some you run away screaming and others conjure up a blissful mood.
The Canadian brand Zoologist based in Toronto is still relatively young, it was only founded in 2013 by Victor Wong.
The aim is to capture and express the peculiarities of all kinds of animals, on water, on land or in the air, living or extinct, through the scents. Be these peculiarities beautiful, funny or even shocking, all this is reflected very well in the really extraordinary creations.
I have already tested some fragrances and can confirm that they are really anything but commonplace. However, they have not caused the greatest enthusiasm in me so far.
It failed in the first place because of the wearability of the fragrances. And that is an important criterion for me
What good is a high-quality and well-crafted fragrance if I can't find an opportunity to wear it or if I don't feel comfortable with the fragrance? Prices and the more or less complicated procurement options also play a role that should not be underestimated. But I do not want to go into that now.
Now recently Bee came to me, the very latest creation from the house of Zoologist. The name already suggested a rather sweet scent with honey as main note, without me having had a look at the pyramid of scents before.
But Bee is not just honey sweet, there are other notes, because simply and simply there is no such thing as a zoologist.
I read here about an association with forest honey. I can also confirm this. Forest honey is now the type of honey that I like least, as it is too bitter and tart. Goes at most times in the tea.
The honey note is present from the beginning and is also very sweet. However, the sweetness becomes harsher and darker relatively quickly, as spicy and resinous notes are quickly introduced and the sweetness is dampened a little. Then the smell reminds me very much of forest honey
Floral notes remain in the background and do not play a particularly important role during the whole process. They seem to me more like pollen, because Bee also seems very dry to me.
In addition, the honey seems to be provided with plenty of beeswax.
The spicy notes give me a little bit the impression of an oriental or hippie shop with all kinds of incense sticks and scented oils, even if this impression is not very strong. That cushions the sweetness a little bit additionally.
The fragrance then also sounds resinous and spicy. Above all, there is a distinct warmth, which is why I see the fragrance best in the cold season. In summer this could be too luxuriant.
The shelf life is excellent, 10 hours are easily in it. And Bee should be dosed as sparingly as possible, it is very dense and takes up a lot of space. One sprayer is already more than sufficient for me.
And that is unfortunately also the point that leads to the fact that Bee is not a candidate for purchase for me. As great as the fragrance is made and as much as I appreciate the concept, I'm afraid the bee would get on my nerves within a short time. I miss a certain lightness in the fragrance. It is lush, heavy and concentrated, thick almost enough to cut. And the bee resembles for me rather a quite thick bumblebee.
All in all, Bee is a really very well composed scent and I guess it is one of the most accessible scents of zoologist, but the great bliss did not come to me, even though I did not have to run away screaming from the scent.
To all those who think Bee is great, of course I wish them a lot of joy with the fragrance!
I like to let the bee fly on.
My thanks go to Pollita, who made the first encounter with the bee possible for me, and to Jakobolino, through him I could deepen the acquaintance a little more.
Let's see what other zoologists have to tell me on occasion.
36 Comments
Translated
Show original
Deception package uncovered
Recently I got to know some fragrances from Dali Haute Parfumerie. These fragrances are distributed since 2016 as an exclusive perfume line by Cofinluxe.
Cofinluxe, based in Paris, was founded in 1976 by Jean-Pierre Grivory, initially under the name Cofci, which was then changed to Cofinluxe in 1985.
This company launched fragrances with names like Taxi or Watt. These didn't mean anything to me now. And after having a look, they don't seem to be very well known here either
In 1983 "Dali" was the first fragrance under the leadership of Salvador Dali to be released, initially as a limited edition. This oriental cracker was then already quite remarkable. Mr. Dali personally had a say in the way the fragrances smelled and the flacon design with the famous Dali lips was also created by him.
1987 followed with "Dali pour Homme", the first men's fragrance, an equally outstanding and extraordinary scent and an early work of Thierry Wasser.
Another very nice scent is Laguna from 1991.
Dali's eccentric personality was very well reflected in the first fragrances, because they are certainly not shallow works.
The company is still in family hands and independent of the large luxury goods groups such as LVMH or Coty.
Even after the death of Salvador Dali, Cofinluxe retained the license to continue to sell fragrances under the name Dali.
Since I was now interested in other fragrances of the relatively newly launched Dali Haute Parfumerie and I had the opportunity to already get to know 4 fragrances from the 5-part Daligramme series, I ordered sample sets to also deal with the other fragrances.
So now I took the series The Fabulous Collection, which also consists of 5 fragrances.
At Fabulous Bukhara I got stuck for the time being and here I noticed something relatively quickly
The fragrance is one of those modern opulent scents with oriental notes, present rose, gourmand notes and oud tones.
Well, the Rose-Oud theme has been a bit overused for my taste lately and I have recently had quite a few Rose-Oud scents come to my mind. I can't deny certain symptoms of fatigue anymore and I like to take a Rose-Oud break. This may also last longer ;-)
But now the following:
Fabulous Bukhara is in fact a flawlessly pure fragrance twin of Lancôme's Ôud Bouquet. There is no doubt about it. I have Ôud Bouquet in my collection and have tested both fragrances in parallel. They are practically identical
Everything is there, the spices, the palatable rose, the chocolate or praline note, the light oud note, the same course. Exactly the same.
With one difference: The Dali is a little lighter, less intense and has a shorter shelf life.
But other than that, I can't make out any striking differences.
This leads to a certain disillusionment with me, because in my opinion, things have been made a little too easy here. Because the website promises somewhat pompously "luxurious collections with the knowledge and requirements of the high French perfumery". But in my opinion one leans there for my terms a little far out of the window.
Although it is common practice that successful concepts are copied here and there and that fragrance twins are always put on the market, I would have wished for a little more independence and inventiveness. Especially with a series marketed as exclusive, I think one could gladly come up with something of one's own instead of copying something already existing 1:1.
Fabulous Bukhara is also not the only copied fragrance. After sniffing through the other 4 scents, I could see that other scents (e.g. by Tom Ford) were copied as well and at least once on my own
The fragrance now gets the same good rating as the Lancôme, because I like the design despite Rose-Oud-weariness, but the fragrance will not be absorbed. It would be the cheaper alternative to Lancôme, but in the end it offers a little less and additionally a feeling that you are rather presented with a deceptive package with great self-confidence, cannot be denied.
I still have 5 fragrances from the Jewels Collection waiting to be tested and see what they have to tell me. Maybe other fragrance twins will be revealed or there will be big surprises.
The sample sets will be passed on soon and I am looking forward to the following opinions.
Cofinluxe, based in Paris, was founded in 1976 by Jean-Pierre Grivory, initially under the name Cofci, which was then changed to Cofinluxe in 1985.
This company launched fragrances with names like Taxi or Watt. These didn't mean anything to me now. And after having a look, they don't seem to be very well known here either
In 1983 "Dali" was the first fragrance under the leadership of Salvador Dali to be released, initially as a limited edition. This oriental cracker was then already quite remarkable. Mr. Dali personally had a say in the way the fragrances smelled and the flacon design with the famous Dali lips was also created by him.
1987 followed with "Dali pour Homme", the first men's fragrance, an equally outstanding and extraordinary scent and an early work of Thierry Wasser.
Another very nice scent is Laguna from 1991.
Dali's eccentric personality was very well reflected in the first fragrances, because they are certainly not shallow works.
The company is still in family hands and independent of the large luxury goods groups such as LVMH or Coty.
Even after the death of Salvador Dali, Cofinluxe retained the license to continue to sell fragrances under the name Dali.
Since I was now interested in other fragrances of the relatively newly launched Dali Haute Parfumerie and I had the opportunity to already get to know 4 fragrances from the 5-part Daligramme series, I ordered sample sets to also deal with the other fragrances.
So now I took the series The Fabulous Collection, which also consists of 5 fragrances.
At Fabulous Bukhara I got stuck for the time being and here I noticed something relatively quickly
The fragrance is one of those modern opulent scents with oriental notes, present rose, gourmand notes and oud tones.
Well, the Rose-Oud theme has been a bit overused for my taste lately and I have recently had quite a few Rose-Oud scents come to my mind. I can't deny certain symptoms of fatigue anymore and I like to take a Rose-Oud break. This may also last longer ;-)
But now the following:
Fabulous Bukhara is in fact a flawlessly pure fragrance twin of Lancôme's Ôud Bouquet. There is no doubt about it. I have Ôud Bouquet in my collection and have tested both fragrances in parallel. They are practically identical
Everything is there, the spices, the palatable rose, the chocolate or praline note, the light oud note, the same course. Exactly the same.
With one difference: The Dali is a little lighter, less intense and has a shorter shelf life.
But other than that, I can't make out any striking differences.
This leads to a certain disillusionment with me, because in my opinion, things have been made a little too easy here. Because the website promises somewhat pompously "luxurious collections with the knowledge and requirements of the high French perfumery". But in my opinion one leans there for my terms a little far out of the window.
Although it is common practice that successful concepts are copied here and there and that fragrance twins are always put on the market, I would have wished for a little more independence and inventiveness. Especially with a series marketed as exclusive, I think one could gladly come up with something of one's own instead of copying something already existing 1:1.
Fabulous Bukhara is also not the only copied fragrance. After sniffing through the other 4 scents, I could see that other scents (e.g. by Tom Ford) were copied as well and at least once on my own
The fragrance now gets the same good rating as the Lancôme, because I like the design despite Rose-Oud-weariness, but the fragrance will not be absorbed. It would be the cheaper alternative to Lancôme, but in the end it offers a little less and additionally a feeling that you are rather presented with a deceptive package with great self-confidence, cannot be denied.
I still have 5 fragrances from the Jewels Collection waiting to be tested and see what they have to tell me. Maybe other fragrance twins will be revealed or there will be big surprises.
The sample sets will be passed on soon and I am looking forward to the following opinions.
30 Comments
