Shepilein

With that name, one would think of something more intense. BTSO didn't really disappoint me, as I find many fragrances to be very straightforward. I don't necessarily see that as a bad thing. Many of the scents feature the almost pornographic title in red on the pure white bottle. It's a bit too simplistic. Usually, one associates something more exciting than patchouli or sandalwood. But oh well...

To put it in context: The listed notes reflect what you smell quite well. The fragrance reminds me of mild rice with slightly earthy undertones. In that sense, one could say that "dirty" might only be half accurate. It smells to me like cooled rice lying on the ground while you're sitting on a blanket holding a few freshly picked flowers. The ground is slightly disturbed, and it rained a few hours ago. A picnic during gardening.

Overall, it's a very pure scent: not too sweet, rather herbal, with a green, slightly fluffy character. It could be something for nature lovers who don't want to smell directly like perfume. This fragrance evokes memories of beautiful moments while remaining pleasantly understated.

When I read "floral-fruity," I usually know right away that such scents are not for me. Even when I want to try something new and the consultants rave about it, many perfumes in this category remind me more of air fresheners. The thought of being overwhelmed by an intense bouquet of flowers and then drowned in a fruit cocktail is my absolute nightmare. Often, it's just too much, and on top of that comes the inevitable association with something overly feminine, which bothers me even more.

When I discovered Guidance 46, an Extrait de Parfum, I thought: Why not? Although I had previously tested the Eau de Parfum on a scent strip and dismissed it as too fruity - definitely not my thing - I decided to give the scent a chance on my skin. After a consultant once again presented me with various floral-fruity cocktails (even though I had clearly stated that I do not like floral or fruity scents), I tried Guidance 46.

To my surprise, I thought at first: "Okay, for a fruity scent, this isn't so bad." It was pleasant, but not quite "my style" yet. At first, I smelled something that strongly reminded me of peach - fruity, but not too sweet, rather silky and muted. Peach and pear have a certain elegance for me; they don't feel overloaded but rather soft and rounded. Combined with the soapy rose, it almost created the scent of a high-quality, fruity hand soap. There was also something earthy, darker - at first, I wouldn't have immediately thought of hazelnut, but it was definitely there, with a slightly gourmand note.

My partner said the scent had a somewhat "grandma-like" quality at first because the rose is quite strong. The fragrance has an incredible presence - a spritz was enough to feel it on the skin for up to eight hours without needing to sniff it again.

What I particularly like is the change over time. The initial fruitiness fades a bit, and the scent develops in a spicy direction. Frankincense, saffron, and a light leather note emerge, and together with the rose, it creates something almost oriental. It vaguely reminds me of Le Parfum Royal by Elie Saab - not identical, but there are parallels that I can't ignore. In the middle part, you can definitely smell the floral notes, but not softly or fresh; rather, they are powdery and sweet. With the spicy components, this scent is quite loud and takes some getting used to.

And then, as if Guidance hadn't surprised enough already, a creamy, almost milky softness comes into play. This perfectly hugs the spicy notes, and everything merges into a creamy-floral composition of vanilla, blossoms, and a hint of pepper. It's not sweet but remains bitter and multi-layered. The initially only subtly noticeable hazelnut becomes more pronounced in this phase, and the creamy note highlights it well.

For me, Guidance is not an ordinary floral-fruity perfume. It is much more complex, with main notes like hazelnut, saffron, rose, leather, and in the end, creamy, woody vanilla. Definitely a diva among fragrances - strong, multifaceted, and unconventional. If I had to compare it, I would say it is a more refined blend of This is Her by Zadig & Voltaire and Le Parfum Royal by Elie Saab.

Despite everything - and as much as I appreciate the scent for its complexity - Guidance is not a fragrance for everyday wear for me. It is simply too intense to wear every day and definitely not a scent that one should buy blindly.

When thinking of summer scents, fresh, aquatic notes often come to mind. Others associate the fragrance of sunscreen and fresh laundry. But no matter what one thinks of, the thought of vacation in a beautiful place - perhaps by the sea - is often present. For me, however, summer begins long before the vacation. It starts when the bugs chirp in the bushes and you pull out the lighter duvet from the closet. Summer means sitting outside by an untouched lake, where next to you, people smoke as if there’s no tomorrow - and yet you enjoy this relaxed atmosphere. Because everything is better than melting in a small 20-square-meter apartment on the fifth floor. Even if it’s not the Mediterranean, the algae-filled lake is more than enough.

“Higher Peace” embodies exactly this kind of summer for me. Something captured in suburbia, yet it feels cozy and a bit retro. Therefore, I am surprised that I hardly perceive the cardamom. Warm and spicy, the scent is neither that for me, nor is it fresh and zesty. “Higher Peace” is hard to categorize. Most clearly, I perceive a light, floral note that subtly hovers in the background. The strongest note for me is the hay, combined with a creamy component. However, the scent does not remind me of a farm, but rather of the dry, sun-warmed air in summer. Earthy notes give it something mature. The perfume has a very human quality, as if one has just bathed in a overgrown lake, then laid down on a dried-up meadow, spreading out a towel that has absorbed the scent of body lotion underneath.

The drugstores have been selling two different refill soaps in the scents of sea breeze and milk-honey for decades. Now, let’s imagine that dear Kim Kardashian one day unknowingly strolls into a DM store just to wash her hands. She reaches for the milk-honey variant. If one doesn’t skimp on lifestyle, then certainly not on hand soap. Once home, she washes her hands with the new liquid soap. And lo and behold, Kim is absolutely delighted by the honey scent. Shortly thereafter, she calls her mother Kris and announces that a perfume with exactly this scent is to be launched.

If this were indeed the origin story, it would be a tribute to the German drugstores. To this fragrance creation, I say: hats off! A sweet bottle with exactly this liquid soap scent has been achieved. At first, the scent is very floral and somewhat zesty, but soon it transforms into a distinct honey scent. However, although many claim it to be an authentic honey scent, I must disagree. It is a very floral, soapy mixture. The honey is indeed clear and recognizable, but it is not sweet and resinous. To me, it even has a slightly hairspray-like smell. Overall, the scent is by no means bad. Especially for those who are fans of the milk-honey soap, this perfume is a safe bet. Lastly, it should be noted that the longevity of the perfume is also good.

Oh Tom, I'm actually not very fond of you. So many fragrances that cost a small fortune and are only mediocre. So if there’s a brand I avoid, it’s yours. I usually make a big detour around the department with the perfumes bearing your name. I also find it exaggerated that you often can't even test what new creations you have. Sniffing in peace is out of the question. Someone has to rummage around in some drawer for a small sample, and this sample is then sprayed on me under strict observation. Not particularly classy, if you ask me. Under these unpleasant circumstances, I tested Tobacco Vanille, as it is supposed to be in the direction of my favorite perfume. I must honestly say, it is not without reason that it has landed in 6th place among the most popular unisex perfumes.

It is fully loaded and doesn’t start shyly at all. There’s a clever avoidance of any progression. From the very beginning, Tobacco Vanille is almost honey-like. Dripping, heavy, sticky, and sweet. On top of that, there’s the smoky aspect from the tobacco, which makes the scent less gourmand. Personally, I think that despite this honey-like characteristic, it is not a gourmand fragrance. Now to the vanilla. Vanilla is a tricky subject; on its own, it can quickly smell very cheap. Just like in those weird body sprays for teenagers. I am all the more happy that the vanilla here is more of the bitter vanilla pod and not that Dr. Oetker aroma. Even as a vanilla pod, it is more present as a companion rather than the main actor. With it, the resin and ginger are so to speak refined. This combination then results in this thick, sweet, golden nectar. Sweet, bitter, and smoky go very well together. As already mentioned, Tobacco Vanille is very straightforward. Why be so changeable when you can flaunt a good scent combination? I don’t find that wrong. Tobacco Vanille shows what it can do, and it does so from the very beginning.

This composition is already heavy, but also addictive. Two sprays are enough, and you’re well taken care of. Otherwise, it takes your breath away. On my skin, it lasts all day, on clothing almost 4 days. A real beast mode perfume, which is not always applicable to Tom Ford.

A truly beautifully crafted perfume that excites many people. The big but remains the price.