TheTr

TheTr

Reviews
TheTr 2 months ago 1
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
7.5
Scent
Smelling like a newpaper rolls in a vanilla stick...
Vanille D'Iris is one of the scents that I have a love-hate relationship with. Sometimes, I feel like I can not feel the powdery, intense iris-vanilla type of fragrance it embodies. However, there are moments when I perceive a very sophisticated, classy, and refined aroma with a well-balanced and smooth blend of vanilla, iris, and wood. Powdery, musky, woody, and a hint of vanilla are the olfactory accords I can detect in this fragrance.

I believe the central idea of Vanille D'Iris revolves around the notes of iris and vanilla, as suggested by its name. The iris accord here is crafted to be smooth, dry, warm, soft, slightly powdery, but bitter. Along with a touch of vanilla to add sweetness throughout the experience. The twist in this fragrance comes from the carrot seed accord, which, at times, I am not fond of due to its vegetal, intense, and powdery nature. In this bottle, carrot seeds and coriander, mainly the former, intensify the Dry, chalky and warmth aspects of iris, bringing a slightly bitter dimension to the fragrance. Carrot seeds are combined with Iso E Super by Geza Schoen to form the backbone of the scent. Although Iso E Super is not mentioned in Ormonde Jayne's information, I can clearly perceive it and, in this case, it contributes to an ethereal, airy, soft, light, and sophisticated bubble around the wearer, giving a feeling of classiness and royalty. A few other notes of white flowers and wood create a concoction of scents while maintaining warmth, gentleness, and airiness.

Due to the twist of dry and powdery nature of carrot seeds, I sometimes feel like I am in front of morning newspapers. The dryness and woody quality create a sensation as if I am opening the pages of a newspaper. On the other hand, there are moments when I feel like being enveloped in a smooth silky neckerchief of iris, rich, warm, and light vanilla. Notably, with vanilla, musk, and carrot seeds, there is no way a carrot cake appears here. The vanilla is not the gooey, rich, and gourmand type but warm, thin, gentle, airy, yet natural and smoothly blended with iris. Each time I wear this scent, I discover different olfactory accords and various associations – that's how complex this fragrance is.

Vanille D'Iris has relatively good performance, and I can still smell it after 7-9 hours. Initially, it projects reasonably well for 1-3 hours, extending like a bubble around you. The motto of Ormonde Jayne, 'Less is more,' is evident in this fragrance. The scents of Ormonde Jayne might not be overpowering in terms of projection and longevity, but the blend and DNA are sophisticated, detailed, and complex.

Unfortunately, Vanille D'Iris is not among my top 5 favorites from Ormonde Jayne, but it's regrettable that it has been discontinued due to reformulation issues. Jane decided not to reformulate the fragrance and chose to discontinue it, emphasizing the importance of complexity and detail in the art of perfumery.
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TheTr 2 months ago 1
7
Bottle
8
Sillage
7
Longevity
7
Scent
Did you order a carbonated mineral water in the leather cup?
To be honest, Tom of Finland is quite a challenging fragrance for me, even though I've owned it for about two years and have tried it numerous times. On my skin, Tom of Finland has one of the most unpleasant openings I've ever experienced. I sense a very fizzy, bubbly, clean, and soapy feeling, with a hint of metallic metal. It's very intense, almost like the sensation of smelling and drinking high-carbonated mineral water. I find it uncomfortable to smell such a fresh and fizzy opening that is very synthetic. But as that fizzy, clean, synthetic feeling hasn't subsided, a scent of suede leather combined with a bit of smoky smoke emerges, somewhat harsh, reminiscent of the smell of plastic gloves or latex, very hard to describe. There's a contrast between this latex plastic sensation and the smoothness of suede leather, compounded by the aldehyde accord still lingering in the opening, creating a somewhat overwhelming sensation for me. Tom of Finland also features an iris accord. Here, iris envelops the leather and unpleasant smoky smell, smoothing out the fragrance and adding sweetness. But in my opinion, the iris here isn't enough to overlook the clash in this fragrance and what I dislike about iris becomes apparent - its relentless, bitter aspect. Tom of Finland undergoes many transitions throughout my experience. From the fizzy metallic sensation, it gradually shifts to the soft leather latex smell, and by the drydown, Tom of Finland reverts to a clean, dry, cold, somewhat unremarkable wood and musk scent.
Tom of Finland performs quite decently, sticking around on the skin for about 6-8 hours. It projects well initially, reaching about two arms' length, and after two hours, the sillage reduces to about one arm's length. The fragrance still manages to give me occasional goosebumps, and I feel like I'll need more time to fully grasp and appreciate it. Well, isn't this what niche fragrances are all about?
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TheTr 3 months ago 1
8
Bottle
7
Sillage
6
Longevity
8
Scent
A calm, elegant gentleman staring at the lemongrass bushes beneath the pine trees.
I find Granville to be a continuous burst of spicy and herbaceous green notes, with its central accord dominating the fragrance.
The opening is explosive, reminiscent of freshly cut lemon zest combined with black pepper, creating a pungent, spicy, and naturally cool start. Notably, there's a subtle hint of minty menthol, adding complexity and freshness from the outset. The herbal accord, featuring thyme and rosemary, unfolds as an explosion of spicy and fresh herbaceous fragrances, hint a bit little medicinal, complemented by lavender and sage, resulting in a refined, soapy, and barbershop-like effect.

The pine needle accord is soft, refined but calm, evoking the scent of lemongrass under tall pine trees, with a delicate balance between green, dry, and the characteristic lemongrass aroma.

As Granville transitions to the drydown phase, it paints the picture of a tranquil garden bathed in sunlight and gentle sea breezes. The dry wood accord emerges with a dry, spicy, and slightly bitter woody aroma, possibly from pine needle and thyme. The initial image of a herb-filled garden gradually transforms into a vast sea of green pines, creating a sensory journey through Dior's herbal garden.

Throughout the fragrance, despite the presence of lemon, green herbs, and spice notes, I perceive a serene, calm, complex and somewhat melancholic undertone???. François Demachy has skillfully blended the green, spicy, and herbal elements, resulting in an elegant and nostalgic fragrance. Granville exudes a touch of luxury, sophistication, and seriousness, capturing the essence of a visit to an herbal garden at a seaside villa atop a pine-covered hill.

I believe Granville is a neutral and unisex fragrance. Despite being marketed as a scent for women, in my opinion, anyone can enjoy a stroll through Dior's herbal garden with this fragrance. Those seeking tranquility, serenity, and immersion in the refreshing greenery of the pine forest can all appreciate this scent.

Granville is said as an Eau de Parfum, but personally, based on the scent profile and my experience, I find its performance to be more similar to Eau de Toilette. The projection is quite good in the first hour, reaching about an arm's length, but later it settles to half an arm's length, creating a subtle bubble of fragrance around you. Granville lingers on my skin for approximately 4-6 hours, which I consider quite satisfactory for a fragrance dominated by herbal and green spicy notes.
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TheTr 3 months ago 1
10
Bottle
5
Sillage
9
Longevity
8
Scent
Rose D'artiste means the 'Art of Pink', journey through the world of pink hues.
Piece 883/1300

Rose D'artiste unfolds with fresh and zingy bergamot. This isn't a juicy or explosive bergamot; it delicately introduces a sense of freshness, setting the stage for the upcoming accord. Even in its initial stages, the subtle powdery and incensy whispers of frankincense and myrrh begin to weave through, creating an ambiant vibe. The blending technique seems to infuse a refreshing quality without compromising the fragrance's depth; instead, it strikes a perfect balance, both substantial and gracefully nuanced.
After around 1-3 minutes, the main character of violet and iris emerge. This imparts a slightly powdery, dusty, but still retaining the softness with a hint of sweetness. The iris, likely sourced from the flower rather than the root, imparts a dry, resolute yet velvety touch. The interplay between iris and violet takes on the route of a powdery cosmetic scent, subtly sweetened against a backdrop of incense, becoming the defining idea of the fragrance.
Underneath, we have the lingering tones of frankincense, myrrh, and ambroxan. Throughout the olfactory journey, a rich tones of floral, powdery, ambery, and incense notes unfolds. The amber/incense fusion doesn't lean heavily into smoky or intense ash aspects; instead, it focus on the ambery and opulent facets of the resin. The collaboration between myrrh and iris prevents an overwhelming sweetness, preserving the enigmatic Middle Eastern signature characteristic of the Armani Prive line.
This fragrance stays quite close to the skin, projecting just enough to reach the length of an arm. It's not an overwhelming presence but rather an airy, gentle embrace that lingers gracefully on the skin. I recall applying it around 7-8 pm on one occasion, and the following morning, a subtle trace of Rose D'artiste still lingered. Much like a lingering ghost of fragrance, it leaves a faint, a whisper.

Imagine in a classy museum space, silent and undisturbed, with a single masterpiece illuminated in the center of the room. In front of you, a rose sculpted from with marble, adorned with silk fabrics in shades of purple, gray, and pastel, all veiled in a mystical haze of smoke and incense. The contrast between materials, colors, and forms creates a unique and contemporary experience.
Experiencing Rose D'artiste feels like a fleeting moment crafted by Marie Salamagne, more about capturing a specific atmosphere, moment or space rather than adhering to a classic fragrance structure. Rose D'artiste is both simple and profound, an artful and mysterious creation that encapsulates a singular moment, a distinct emotion, a particular scenario.


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