Clean Suede / Tom of Finland by Etat Libre d'Orange

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Clean Suede
Tom of Finland
Etat Libre d'Orange 1998

6.7 / 10 75 Ratings

A perfume by Etat Libre d'Orange for women and men, released in 1998. The scent is spicy-woody. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Spicy

Woody

Smoky

Sweet

Green

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes

Clove

Clary sage

Humdraxpelum

Heart Notes

Tobacco

Cedarwood

Xondripleval

Base Notes

Castoreum

Labdanum

Tonka bean

Hypothetical Heliotrope

Ratings

Scent

6.775 Ratings

Longevity

7.662 Ratings

Sillage

6.961 Ratings

Bottle

6.353 Ratings

Submitted by Kankuro · last update on 10/19/2025.

Source-backed & verified

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to

Mogadess

Tobacco Vanille Eau de Parfum

L'orpheline

Tabac Rouge

Reviews

4 in-depth fragrance descriptions

10/19/2025

8Scent 8Longevity 8Sillage

Raluko111
490 Reviews

Raluko111

What Tobacco Vanille can only hope to become

If you love cloves and tobacco, you should definitely give this Wild Tobacco a sniff. She is a storm of cloves that takes you by surprise, a green typhoon of earthy spice buffeting you left and right. At first, I couldn't find the tobacco; my nose was too shocked, the little clove nails spiking every receptor. It took me a few tries to be able to understand the fragrance, to let it develop, to allow my nose to get used to it, and then I started sensing the tobacco unfolding slowly in the middle of the journey.

This is a much better blend than Tobacco Vanille Eau de Parfum: here the spices and the tobacco speak more eloquently and the sweetness of the tonka bean is there to gently cushion the tobacco leaves, not drown them completely.

Updated on 10/19/2025

12/23/2012

2Scent 2.5Longevity 2.5Sillage

Coutureguru
237 Reviews

Coutureguru

Helpful Review 6

Nothing 'wild' about this Tobacco.

As I sample my way through the Illuminum Vaporizer Perfume collection, I am struck more and more with the idea that this house follows in the footsteps of Jo Malone. Their approach feels similar and some of their fragrances sold at "indulgent eau de parfum strength" are little more than Eau De Colognes. Admittedly, whoever writes the copy on their webpage is very good … but completely full of 'it'.

Upon sampling Wild Tobacco, I am reminded of a number of other fragrances … Cartier's Declaration springs to mind as well as one or two by Diptyque, another Jo Malone-esque undertaking. Illuminum's website reports that " creatively combined into four fragrance families – Floral, Citrus, Musk and Oud – each scent shines a spotlight on eight star ingredients using a supporting caste (sic) of molecules and aldehydes to help them sparkle."
In Wild Tobacco the "eight star ingredients" are listed as:

Top: Clary Sage, Clove Buds
Middle: Virginian Cedar wood, Tobacco Leaves
Base: Castoreum, Tonka Bean, Labdanum

OK then … let's make that seven (one must've gone missing) with the copy about the fragrance using words like "fanfare of herbs and spices" and 'sostenato (sic - as far as I know, 'sostenuto' means 'sustained') chord of sensuousness and depth".
Utter 'balderdash' imho … Wild Tobacco is a straight up, Clove laden, vague Tobacco scent with poor to average sillage and abysmal longevity. It also has the misfortune of containing Clary Sage, providing it with a good dose of 'unwashed armpit'. If this is what a 'distinguished gentleman's club' smells like there must've been an un-showered hooker in last night for 'entertainment' purposes. Now, I don't have a problem with a fragrance being just average or even 'cheap'. What I do take issue with is bottling bilge and then selling it at £100 a bottle, in the guise of "perfumery's future". Such behavior within the hallowed halls of niche perfumery is relatively commonplace (just look at Tom Ford) but nonetheless completely reprehensible!

I have tried a few other samples from this collection that are nice (reviews will follow), but I cannot call Wild Tobacco anything but a ripoff. Avoid!!

08/29/2013

8Scent

Terra
646 Reviews

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Terra

Very helpful Review

Why Tobacco Vanille? Others do it much better!

If you like Tobacco Vanille, you can probably buy this fragrance blind. It is indeed similar, but for me, it is significantly more pleasant and better balanced. Sage and clove create a wonderful spiciness, and the tobacco is clearer here than in TV. The honey-like sweetness is comparable, but not as overwhelming. In TV, this sweetness almost drowns out every other note for me. This fragrance is still delicious and sweet, but it remains so light and transparent that you can clearly perceive the spicy aspects as well as the tobacco. Wild Tobacco would, in my opinion, also work quite well in summer. Really well done.

03/27/2013

10Scent 10Longevity 7.5Sillage

Parfumfan29
302 Reviews

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Parfumfan29

Top Review

Wild Tobacco by Illuminum, a Touch of Tabacco Vanille.

I recently purchased Wild Tobacco by Illuminum as a blind buy, and I am absolutely thrilled with this perfume :)

It is a higher-quality fragrance that has a wonderful, nature-inspired scent combination of clary sage, tobacco with a subtle honey and a light to moderate clove note.
I would like to make a comparison to Tabacco Vanille by Tom Ford in my comment, as the two perfumes are somewhat similar in a way, yet they are two different scents, but not entirely!!

This combination of tobacco, honey, and clove reminds me a lot of Tabacco Vanille by Tom Ford, only here the sage is prominently featured.
The difference with Wild Tobacco is that the tobacco-honey combination is less sweet here, and this treasure has a more natural scent overall!
I must say that I am a big fan of Tabacco Vanille, and with Illuminum's Wild Tobacco, I have found another tobacco scent that I really like and that also has a certain similarity to Tabacco Vanille!

Tom Ford's Tabacco Vanille is still sweeter compared to this treasure here, and it has some culinary scent facets; one might almost think that it comes across as somewhat artificial compared to this perfume, which is not meant negatively!!!!
Nevertheless, both scents have a wonderful fragrance, or their charm, which could lead to an addiction if one sniffs both fragrances :)

The perfume does not undergo a long scent development, as the notes come together in a short period of at most 10 minutes!
At least, that is how I perceive it.

After the initial application, the clary sage is already more prominent! It has a very natural, herbaceous-spicy scent, and it also possesses a slight freshness, typical of clary sage!
It runs like a red thread through the entire scent progression, although it already loses intensity during the heart base note, yet it is still moderately perceptible before making way for the other ingredients.
A lightly to moderately noticeable clove note quickly joins this beautiful plant, which is not unpleasant, e.g., it does not remind one of dentist visits!
This clove scent is also very natural and mild!
The wonderful scent of tobacco does not take long to appear; it follows quite quickly, has a slightly green-fresh scent, yet it possesses that typical tobacco aroma, not smoky here.
A light scent of gingerbread also spreads here, which carries only a subtle to light sweetness!

In the base note, Wild Tobacco has become a bit milder, yet this perfume is still perceived as intense overall.
A light breeze of incense mixes into this precious elixir.
The cedarwood is not particularly detectable for me, except for a slight scent of it that can be perceived in the background!

The longevity of Wild Tobacco is rated as good to very good!
The sillage is also moderately to strongly noticeable.

For all perfume lovers who enjoy Tabacco Vanille by Tom Ford and perhaps seek a somewhat more natural variant with less sweetness and clary sage, among others, should definitely test this treasure!
Also, the price difference between the two fragrances is quite significant ;)
The scent would surely gain quite a few more fans; I am absolutely sure of that!

This elixir is also not too strong for women, even if it might suggest otherwise after the initial application!

Statements

13 short views on the fragrance

Floyd

6 years ago

8Scent 8Longevity 7Sillage

Transforming clove incense
Into crackling tobacco beds
Cedar still in green spice
Warm honey resins emerge
Glistening sweet tonka candle

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Yatagan

8 years ago

7.5Scent 8Longevity 8Sillage

Crunchy tobacco scent from the Shire with clary sage that divides opinions, soon fading honey note and herbal punch!

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NikEy

5 years ago

5Scent 9Longevity 8Sillage

Brutally sharp-spicy, dark tobacco-clove scent.
After that, you understand why tobacco is considered a toxic plant.

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Mörderbiene

4 years ago

6.5Scent 8Longevity 7Sillage

Really comes close to Grandpa's real pipe tobacco, but is accompanied by a cold ashtray.
Later gains warmth and sweetness.

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Parfumfan29

10 years ago

10Scent 10Longevity 7.5Sillage

Green-herb tobacco with a warm-spicy gingerbread scent. The perfect companion for cold days for both men and women! I will always love it!

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Mefunx

8 years ago

7.5Scent 9Longevity 8Sillage

Grassy-green tobacco, clove-fruity & with fresh sweetness, tea & tar, ambered, slightly moist. Dry contrast: cigarette smoke, wood. Good!

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Leons

6 years ago

0Scent 9Longevity 10Sillage

Overwhelming and brutal. No go. Nicotine poisoning in the predator house.
Last hope: oxygen tent!

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Ohdeberlin

9 years ago

8Scent 6Longevity

Honey, labdanum, tobacco, sage - great, but the honey fades quickly and becomes too ordinary. The animal notes in tonka are weak.

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TiBe

5 years ago

9.5Scent 9Longevity 9Sillage

Wow! Extremely natural expensive tobacco, lots of spices but a subtle sweetness, I have nothing that smells like this (no - not even TV); something special!

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