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Zara's new 9.0 Flanker
First of all, the dismay that the old version was discontinued was limited for me, as I still have 2 back-up bottles of the old version. So I approached the whole thing relatively objectively.
Dior Homme Parfum (2014) with
Le Mâle Le Parfum sounded like a good idea at first. Less dark leathery with modern sweet notes, that could be something.
First spray on the hand: different... different than expected. Iris very "buttery", tonka bean upfront, sweet and actually slightly hay-like. What was also clearly perceptible is a benzaldheyd (marzipan note) - strange. The overall scent DNA was very familiar. Didn't last long - this is somewhere between
9.0 (Valentino Uomo) and
Night pour Homme III (YSL L'Homme Intense) with an additional classically masculine base, as in
Percival without smelling like it.
Overall, it generally looks like a Zara release. Everything that is popular at the moment mixed together and nicely packaged.
The further into the drydown, the more the fragrance collapses. Scratchy metallic notes emerge clearly. Everything that only had a hint of structure in the opening slowly disappears. Insignificant sweetness accompanies artificial wood. Both on the test strip and on the skin.
I was initially of the opinion that many bad comments were pure hate. Now I'm more of the opinion that all positive opinions are fake (to justify a failed blind buy or whatever). How the fragrance got through the market research group is a mystery to me.
Quite ok for 20€ if you don't have much else to do with fragrances. But to ask such utopian prices for the end product is cheeky. Kurkdjian and Dior, that won't work anymore


First spray on the hand: different... different than expected. Iris very "buttery", tonka bean upfront, sweet and actually slightly hay-like. What was also clearly perceptible is a benzaldheyd (marzipan note) - strange. The overall scent DNA was very familiar. Didn't last long - this is somewhere between



Overall, it generally looks like a Zara release. Everything that is popular at the moment mixed together and nicely packaged.
The further into the drydown, the more the fragrance collapses. Scratchy metallic notes emerge clearly. Everything that only had a hint of structure in the opening slowly disappears. Insignificant sweetness accompanies artificial wood. Both on the test strip and on the skin.
I was initially of the opinion that many bad comments were pure hate. Now I'm more of the opinion that all positive opinions are fake (to justify a failed blind buy or whatever). How the fragrance got through the market research group is a mystery to me.
Quite ok for 20€ if you don't have much else to do with fragrances. But to ask such utopian prices for the end product is cheeky. Kurkdjian and Dior, that won't work anymore
3 Comments
Azzaro pour homme intenses meets CK Reveal
How is the currently most hyped scent even enough? Well, it took less than 10 seconds and I immediately had Azzaro pour Homme Intense and CK Reveal in my head. Overall, a herbaceous green, slightly smoky leather with citrus overtones and an alcoholic note that is almost reminiscent of tequila - probably the CK Reveal association.
The whole thing is accompanied by soap. More in the direction of curd soap/ Irish spring. And that creates a connection to the OG Xerjoff Homme.
Overall, it's kind of disappointing, I was expecting THE scent, it's just ONE scent. Even if it's a little more modern, it's still old school and, despite playing with contrasts, too uninspired.
Longevity is good, but not great. The bottle is an absolute feast for the eyes
Overall average
The whole thing is accompanied by soap. More in the direction of curd soap/ Irish spring. And that creates a connection to the OG Xerjoff Homme.
Overall, it's kind of disappointing, I was expecting THE scent, it's just ONE scent. Even if it's a little more modern, it's still old school and, despite playing with contrasts, too uninspired.
Longevity is good, but not great. The bottle is an absolute feast for the eyes
Overall average
Melasses, cigarres and a leather couch
It appears sweet, dense and sticky at the beginning - but is less intrusive than many caramel/nut/vanilla designers. The bitter note combined makes an incredibly realistic molasses impression. There is also a freshly cut, moist cigar that exudes its aromatic scent. This composition is then arranged on a black leather couch. incredibly creative and engaging. I would most likely draw parallels to Dior Fahrenheit Absolute - but only remotely, because the violet comes across as slightly "gasoline-like" here too. Just like the scent, the bottle is incredibly beautiful. Everything is somehow right here
Kouros Tonique brought up from the past?
I was actually expecting a cologne in the AdP style with fresh maritime to aquatic notes, but I was reminded of Kouros Toniqie (2013) / Cologne Sport (2004) right from the first spray. Not in the veins of but confusingly similar.
The main part of the scent is tart bergamot with lots of white flowers, primarily jasmine, which could bring in a subtle "funky" twist for one or the other nose. Woods in the background - I might see the maritime reference here, smells a bit like you would imagine driftwood.
Even if it is not listed directly in the notes, a powdery lavender note comes across clearly to me.
The whole performance is over after about 2 hours, unfortunately very weak, even if the racy male DNA would suggest otherwise.
Pricewise... not really a recommendation
The main part of the scent is tart bergamot with lots of white flowers, primarily jasmine, which could bring in a subtle "funky" twist for one or the other nose. Woods in the background - I might see the maritime reference here, smells a bit like you would imagine driftwood.
Even if it is not listed directly in the notes, a powdery lavender note comes across clearly to me.
The whole performance is over after about 2 hours, unfortunately very weak, even if the racy male DNA would suggest otherwise.
Pricewise... not really a recommendation
Plum romanticizes with Cherry
Dense and syrupy, that's how it presents itself in the opening. Plums and cherries cooked with sugar over open fire. Seasoned with cinnamon cardamom and other oriental spices.
Honestly, if you cross out all non-edible ingredients from the pyramid, it actually sounds like a reasonable recipe for a winter fruit punch. Everything is balanced with light woods, not a trace of oud. The tobacco does not come across as burnt or dry at all, but rather like a moist shisha tobacco.
Although there are hardly any fresh and rather dark notes, it has a very youthful appearance. I can also imagine it as a great clubbing/going out fragrance in winter.
All in all a solid thing. I see similarities to Amouroud Oud after Dark or a bit more distant Arasbesque. In terms of style, it is similar to Montale Oud Tabac, but here in a more fruity direction and less honey/vanilla. Longevity Montale typical top.
In terms of the rating, I think it's a bit exaggerated at the moment, but I would give it 7.5-8 out of 10 points. Not hyper-realistic or naturally rich, but that's almost impossible with cherry notes anyway. Simply a solid scent from Montale that is sure to rank in my top 5 from the house.
Honestly, if you cross out all non-edible ingredients from the pyramid, it actually sounds like a reasonable recipe for a winter fruit punch. Everything is balanced with light woods, not a trace of oud. The tobacco does not come across as burnt or dry at all, but rather like a moist shisha tobacco.
Although there are hardly any fresh and rather dark notes, it has a very youthful appearance. I can also imagine it as a great clubbing/going out fragrance in winter.
All in all a solid thing. I see similarities to Amouroud Oud after Dark or a bit more distant Arasbesque. In terms of style, it is similar to Montale Oud Tabac, but here in a more fruity direction and less honey/vanilla. Longevity Montale typical top.
In terms of the rating, I think it's a bit exaggerated at the moment, but I would give it 7.5-8 out of 10 points. Not hyper-realistic or naturally rich, but that's almost impossible with cherry notes anyway. Simply a solid scent from Montale that is sure to rank in my top 5 from the house.
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