Tzapan
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14 days ago - 06/05/2025
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TOO NICHE TOO POPULAR!

TOO NICHE TOO POPULAR!

In the first decade of the new millennium a new word appeared in the perfume vocabulary and it was the word: niche. We found out soon that niche fragrances were that much expensive due to raw materials which are enormously expensive ,but that isn't t always true. Nowadays niche perfumery is using a hell of a lot of synthetic notes. That doesn't mean synthetics are cheap materials, but on the other hand how expensive could they be? Synthetics are created in a lab. I mean nowadays you cannot expect your fragrance to contain real amber gris, which is an essence created from gelly foam collected from coasts and is a natural product whales provide from their stomachs and people trained specially to collect natural amber gris. In the middle East there are people who know how to collect the male deer musk from rocks which the animals are marking during the period the deers mate, but even if this collection of deer musk ain't cruel it shouldn't be legitimate in these countries because it interferes with basic laws of nature in certain protected areas the deers inhabit. We thought that the concept of niche would be limited batches of bottled fragrances due to collecting very expensive, premium materials but that isn't true either. I will have to use names of theoretically niche perfumeries which I find too mainstream to consider them niche. One is Killian fragrances. Their popularity is amazing and even though their prices are niche prices, the majority of their fragrances are too mainstream, too popular. Another one is Parfums de Marly ,their fragrances are way too mainstream but their prices are niche and they are considered niche. Between the two I pick Killian,but still not too happy. I still believe their fragrances are mainstream. What is your point of view on these two niche perfume houses?

Then there is the other category of niche artisan, experimental in their beginning fragrances like the Nasomatto perfumed oils and Orto Parigi 50ml edps. Alessandro Gualtieri is a perfumer I admire for his unorthodox mix of notes but after so many formulas he has created successfully is he still avant - garde or did his popularity diminish his actual value in the fragrance community?

some niche fragrances I managed to test in the huge department store in the centre of my city on paper strip. Layton was pleasant but overall designed to be loved by the crowds. Oud Maracujá felt special in the opening but It wasn't my cup of tea at all! A blue vibe which i stay away from. Black Phantom - Memento Mori far too subtle, too powdery not long lasting at all. Seriously if You want to smell like coffee and cocoa look a bit closer at the Mugler a*men and angel men flankers. Aventus was stunning on paper strip and a bit linear but personally cannot say I found it a very original fragrance! The quality is really top though!

Last updated 06/05/2025 - 03:19 AM
11 Comments
GourmandgrlGourmandgrl 8 days ago
Thank you for sharing your thoughts my friend @Tzapan , always interesting to consider!
TzapanTzapan 7 days ago
@Gourmandgrl hello dear friend, thanks for reading this piece! :-)
UrsawUrsaw 9 days ago
1
I think this is a conversation that needs to begin from a detailed description of what you consider "niche", because as a whole it seems to be too vague of a category at this point. Do you mean it as an antithesis to "designer" – as in "brand that only does perfumery and nothing else"? Or does that brand also have to be small and independent? Where's the line between "niche" and "indie" for you? Or does the brand's nature not matter at all as long as their scents are unique and artistic in nature? And if so, how unique and artistic do they need to be to qualify?
I've tried... some niches so far. A few were interesting. Some were okay. Most were not good. But the same is true for designer stuff as well – I think it's just the nature of perfumery overall. You just gotta try everything until you figure out what speaks to you. I adore artistic approach to fragrances, and all of my personal faves are from Loewe – who aren't even a niche brand (though they are a pain to find where I live).
UrsawUrsaw 7 days ago
@Gourmandgrl there is one reputable shop in my country that has a very tiny selection in physical stores, but only in a few major cities. I initially got acquainted with Loewe through samples that were available on Notino at the time, but that was a streak of luck.
Right now if I want to learn more, I have to either buy decants from other enthusiasts, or blind buy full bottles that local shops (or European retailers that ship to Ukraine) may have somewhere in storage. I know I adore them, so I tend to go the blind buy route; but if you're not familiar with the brand – yeah, samples are the way to go :)
GourmandgrlGourmandgrl 8 days ago
1
@Ursaw agreed on the nature of perfumery (just trying everything until you figure out what speaks to you)!
Have you found Loewe in stores anywhere? That's one brand I've been meaning to get my nose on too, but figured I'd have to order samples down the line!
TzapanTzapan 8 days ago
@Ursaw thank you for your views shared here! I agree with you!
ShiftsShifts 9 days ago
Kilian Paris is owned by the luxury group Estee Lauder Companies, and can hardly be counted as niche these days (actually for almost ten years now).
TzapanTzapan 8 days ago
@Shifts
OMG I answered underneath but forgot to tag u
TzapanTzapan 8 days ago
Really? I thought Estée Lauder bought it to offer a niche line of fragrances. The same as Tom Fords! For me Killian were never niche, anyway. Just overpriced. Thank you for the info. It is quite shocking and important.
RingtaleRingtale 11 days ago
1
The niche perfumes I've smelled so far (I'm just a beginner where it comes to 'niche') didn't really thrill me. I like Fleur de Peau by Diptyque, but Orpheon is like russian roulette:one day it smells good, next day it smells awful and I don't like it that you'd have to wash your clothes twice to get rid of the scent. I do love the thrill of unboxing Diptyque perfumes though, beautyful packaging :-)!
Maison Crivelli is awful to my nose (smelled 5 from a sample set), but ofcourse that is just about personal taste, their sillage and longevity are exellent and quality is good. Maison Violet: Too linear and nothing outstanding (also a sample set with 5 samples) could as well have been designer scents in my opinion.
TzapanTzapan 11 days ago
@Ringtale thank you for your comment. I know eau de papier its my sister's favourite. Generally speaking Diptyque offers you a whole culture in their site. You can even find objects to use in your bathroom and kitchen and even wardrobe. They do cosmetics, brushes, soaps ,candles..

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