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Boozy and sweaty elegance
Overture Man is the sexiest perfume in my collection. While its scent profile is challenging, it's also nuanced and everchanging. Karine Vinchon-Spehner created a masterpiece, where each facet is presented at the right time. It's daring, but also comforting and sophisticated.
The opening is the most audacious stage of this journey and reminds me of a spice bazaar. Saffron, cardamom, nutmeg - pick your poison. However, it doesn't take too long for cumin to take over in a very masculine way. Combined with grapefruit and animalic notes, you get an inexplicably pleasant sweaty smell that sticks to your skin forever.
Once the spicy maelstrom settles, an intoxicating cognac note enters the stage. It blends with the sweatiness and stays present for the rest of the wear. This slightly boozy, slightly sweaty symphony is the bread and butter of Overture Man.
Frankincense is present enough to provide the Amouage appeal, but it isn't overpowering. Overture Man isn't all about spices, cognac and smoke; there's a bit of sweetness from the mix of smooth benzoin, honey-like myrrh and cinnamon.
Eventually, sandalwood comes into play, complemented by labdanum and leather. I also get a bit of earthiness, presumably from patchouli and clary sage. This results in a woody, leathery and creamy drydown, where the balsams manage to tame the sweat and booze.
Performance is remarkable. I get 12 hours of longevity, but the creamy animalic notes stay on my skin for up to 18 hours. The projection is great, I get 4 hours of a glorious boozy and sweaty cloud that certainly turns heads.
The opening is the most audacious stage of this journey and reminds me of a spice bazaar. Saffron, cardamom, nutmeg - pick your poison. However, it doesn't take too long for cumin to take over in a very masculine way. Combined with grapefruit and animalic notes, you get an inexplicably pleasant sweaty smell that sticks to your skin forever.
Once the spicy maelstrom settles, an intoxicating cognac note enters the stage. It blends with the sweatiness and stays present for the rest of the wear. This slightly boozy, slightly sweaty symphony is the bread and butter of Overture Man.
Frankincense is present enough to provide the Amouage appeal, but it isn't overpowering. Overture Man isn't all about spices, cognac and smoke; there's a bit of sweetness from the mix of smooth benzoin, honey-like myrrh and cinnamon.
Eventually, sandalwood comes into play, complemented by labdanum and leather. I also get a bit of earthiness, presumably from patchouli and clary sage. This results in a woody, leathery and creamy drydown, where the balsams manage to tame the sweat and booze.
Performance is remarkable. I get 12 hours of longevity, but the creamy animalic notes stay on my skin for up to 18 hours. The projection is great, I get 4 hours of a glorious boozy and sweaty cloud that certainly turns heads.
7 Comments
Opus XIV - Royal Liquorice
Sadly, I can't call this scent the king of tobacco anymore, but rather the queen of licorice. The king is dead, long live the queen. The original G batch was a lot smokier, presumably due to higher concentrations of incense and tobacco. I've tried H batch and well, let's say it's a different beast.
Current formulation dials down frankincense, allowing the prominent spices like anise and fenugreek to take over and blend with sugary licorice. After a while, I start getting whiffs of tobacco and the sillage is green, spicy and a bit herbal. However, the scent profile is quickly dominated by the sweet licorice.
Thankfully, the drydown stays true to Amouage's origins. I get some woodiness, honey-like myrrh and the creamy quality of benzoin and vanilla. There's also a smooth, slightly smoky leathery feel, I'm assuming that's birch tar and labdanum at play.
While tobacco slowly disappears throughout the drydown, licorice seems to be amped up to the point where it lasts forever, which makes Royal Tobacco sweet and mass-appealing. The performance is still decent, I get 10 hours on skin and 4 hours of projection.
If you're expecting a smoky tobacco scent, you'll be disappointed. In order to experience Cécile Zarokian's award-winning blend, look for the G batch. The current version is about anise, licorice, resins and a touch of tobacco. It's alright, but it doesn't live up to its name.
Current formulation dials down frankincense, allowing the prominent spices like anise and fenugreek to take over and blend with sugary licorice. After a while, I start getting whiffs of tobacco and the sillage is green, spicy and a bit herbal. However, the scent profile is quickly dominated by the sweet licorice.
Thankfully, the drydown stays true to Amouage's origins. I get some woodiness, honey-like myrrh and the creamy quality of benzoin and vanilla. There's also a smooth, slightly smoky leathery feel, I'm assuming that's birch tar and labdanum at play.
While tobacco slowly disappears throughout the drydown, licorice seems to be amped up to the point where it lasts forever, which makes Royal Tobacco sweet and mass-appealing. The performance is still decent, I get 10 hours on skin and 4 hours of projection.
If you're expecting a smoky tobacco scent, you'll be disappointed. In order to experience Cécile Zarokian's award-winning blend, look for the G batch. The current version is about anise, licorice, resins and a touch of tobacco. It's alright, but it doesn't live up to its name.
A tobacco gourmand
While some perfumes can make me feel confident and put-together, Herod literally fills me with happiness. It's a cozy and inviting fragrance that still has a masculine character due to some spiciness and a mild tobacco note.
You have to like your sweet stuff to enjoy Herod. The opening is cinnamon-heavy and the drydown is dominated by vanilla, so this scent is as gourmand as it gets. The tobacco note isn't green or pungent, but quite dry and a bit smoky. Needless to say, the transition from cinnamon to the warm, cherry-like pipe tobacco is divine.
Cistus and osmanthus blend with vanilla, creating a creamy, slightly leathery impression. This is underlined by a woody base of cedar and Iso E Super along with earthy patchouli. Olivier Pescheux (R.I.P.) got the balance just right; the scent profile is incredibly pleasant.
Herod lasts for 8 hours on my skin and the projection is decent. I'm surrounded by a sexy scent bubble during the first half of the wear, so 3-4 hours. Is that good enough given the PdM price tag? Considering I would generally wear this during the holidays and for family gatherings, I can't honestly say I need it to last any longer.
You have to like your sweet stuff to enjoy Herod. The opening is cinnamon-heavy and the drydown is dominated by vanilla, so this scent is as gourmand as it gets. The tobacco note isn't green or pungent, but quite dry and a bit smoky. Needless to say, the transition from cinnamon to the warm, cherry-like pipe tobacco is divine.
Cistus and osmanthus blend with vanilla, creating a creamy, slightly leathery impression. This is underlined by a woody base of cedar and Iso E Super along with earthy patchouli. Olivier Pescheux (R.I.P.) got the balance just right; the scent profile is incredibly pleasant.
Herod lasts for 8 hours on my skin and the projection is decent. I'm surrounded by a sexy scent bubble during the first half of the wear, so 3-4 hours. Is that good enough given the PdM price tag? Considering I would generally wear this during the holidays and for family gatherings, I can't honestly say I need it to last any longer.
2 Comments
The final boss of vetiver
Forget about the commercially safe vetiver perfumes from Guerlain, Hermès or Tom Ford. This is vetiver in its natural glory - aromatic, earthy and dirty, with an opening that can be challenging if you aren't used to the greener aspects of vetiver.
It should be noted that the fragrance is blended so perfectly that even an untrained nose can pick up the multitude of vetiver notes. Jorge Lee takes you by the hand and shows you the whole life cycle of vetiver, starting out green and pungent when the plant is still young, eventually ending with dry and woody vetiver.
The opening takes you to a grassfield. It's springtime and it rained recently. Imagine green, aromatic and wet notes. It can be overbearing, especially when you add pepper to the mix. Bergamot adds some bitter freshness and when it comes to absinth, I mostly pick up anise and maybe fennel, so it actually reminds me of ouzo.
As the fragrance develops and starts drying down, so does the vetiver. Think of a dry field with wheels of hay. It becomes earthy and woody with a dusty quality. Eventally, a creamy leather note grounds the scent, complementing the earthiness. Performance is good, I get about 8 hours on skin with moderate projection.
Give it a shot and try to keep an open mind. This scent conveys many facets of vetiver and gives you a much deeper understanding of the note. As usual, Jorge Lee brings high quality ingredients to life with masterful bleding. Sultan Vetiver deserves your attention.
It should be noted that the fragrance is blended so perfectly that even an untrained nose can pick up the multitude of vetiver notes. Jorge Lee takes you by the hand and shows you the whole life cycle of vetiver, starting out green and pungent when the plant is still young, eventually ending with dry and woody vetiver.
The opening takes you to a grassfield. It's springtime and it rained recently. Imagine green, aromatic and wet notes. It can be overbearing, especially when you add pepper to the mix. Bergamot adds some bitter freshness and when it comes to absinth, I mostly pick up anise and maybe fennel, so it actually reminds me of ouzo.
As the fragrance develops and starts drying down, so does the vetiver. Think of a dry field with wheels of hay. It becomes earthy and woody with a dusty quality. Eventally, a creamy leather note grounds the scent, complementing the earthiness. Performance is good, I get about 8 hours on skin with moderate projection.
Give it a shot and try to keep an open mind. This scent conveys many facets of vetiver and gives you a much deeper understanding of the note. As usual, Jorge Lee brings high quality ingredients to life with masterful bleding. Sultan Vetiver deserves your attention.
French elegance meets Omani power
Interlude Man is easily one of the manliest and best performing perfumes I've experienced. It has a simple and elegant scent profile, but manages to capture the rugged Omani appeal. Pierre Negrin created a masterpiece; the French idea of a Middle Eastern man.
The opening packs a herbal/spicy punch with oregano and pimento. After 15-20 minutes, Frankincense kicks in and envelops you in a cloud of herbal smoke. Eventually, the resins start coming to life, rounding out the scent and making it warm and a bit sweet.
Sandalwood is the shining star of the drydown phase. It's smooth, creamy, slightly boozy and those qualities are complemented by a leather note. Agarwood and patchouli provide earthiness and more distinct woodiness. Interlude Man comes off as dark and mysterious. On my skin, it projects for 6 hours and lasts for about 14 hours.
It's challenging but develops quickly and is easy to pull off if you wear it with confidence instead of allowing it to wear you. While it's my fall and winter signature scent, it can be worn during warmer months as well - it radiates quite beautifully in the heat.
Hats off to Pierre Negrin and damn you Amouage for setting the bar so high. Knowing that this juice smells so captivating while also having the so-called "nuclear projection" makes it difficult to justify spending money on other niche brands. Which isn't a bad thing.
The opening packs a herbal/spicy punch with oregano and pimento. After 15-20 minutes, Frankincense kicks in and envelops you in a cloud of herbal smoke. Eventually, the resins start coming to life, rounding out the scent and making it warm and a bit sweet.
Sandalwood is the shining star of the drydown phase. It's smooth, creamy, slightly boozy and those qualities are complemented by a leather note. Agarwood and patchouli provide earthiness and more distinct woodiness. Interlude Man comes off as dark and mysterious. On my skin, it projects for 6 hours and lasts for about 14 hours.
It's challenging but develops quickly and is easy to pull off if you wear it with confidence instead of allowing it to wear you. While it's my fall and winter signature scent, it can be worn during warmer months as well - it radiates quite beautifully in the heat.
Hats off to Pierre Negrin and damn you Amouage for setting the bar so high. Knowing that this juice smells so captivating while also having the so-called "nuclear projection" makes it difficult to justify spending money on other niche brands. Which isn't a bad thing.
