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Top Review
33
Neukölln 10: Number 9. Points 8.
So much in advance: For Mr. Duchaufour or the company Puig, department "L'Artisan Parfumeur", it was no fireworks of creativity to call this fragrance "My number 9". For this name I give only one point. For the fragrance, I give a little more. Details now on this channel.
L'Artisan Parfumeur is also - similar to Villoresi from my last commentary on this series - a moderately noble label, but one that belongs to a large corporation and one in which various big names are allowed to let off steam. This label doesn't necessarily have colognes in mind, and yet LAP even offers a series of six waters, at least 4 of which meet my personal definition of a cologne (the others tend to be floral colognes without citric or otherwise fresh content). This one is the first one I am testing.
During my (superficial) first test some time ago I found the fragrance unspecifically nice, gave 8 points and wrote a somewhat inspired statement. Yesterday I tested more thoroughly and was (then immediately) enthusiastic. A fragrance that reaches my heart and evokes childhood memories, in this case memories of nights in mountain huts and hiking in the Alps:
Sprayed on, and shutters are ripped open: Bright, dense, citric yellow sunlight streams in, but not the harsh, harsh light of southern latitude, nor any Mediterranean glow: This is the strong, rich morning light on a mountain pasture. In the Hesperidia, the smell of straw from the rick, and a steaming green (a haze of pigeon-weathered meadow; maybe it was raining during the night) immediately mixes in. Everywhere also the smell of flowers, first fertilized and then trampled by the cattle, with a hint of violets and yet very gently enchanting.
This melange of muted citric freshness with tart floral, moist green and earthy herbaceous notes results in a wonderfully composed whole, a dynamic symphony of nature, which in my coordinate system is somewhere between Sisley's Eau de Campagne and Harry Lehmann's Valeria (which is a great compliment in my case). By the way, the scent impression changes in the first two or three hours, sweeter and resinous-balsamic tones come to the fore, but the overall impression, including very resistant citric sounds, remains intact. I was inclined to sing the Song of Songs on Master Duchaufour once again and to raise it to at least 9 points. By the way: A green-herbal Naturcologne (as such distantly related to HL's New York); despite cardamon and coriander no brown spice cologne.
Today then a third test with only a small residue, which I only sprayed on my wrist, under everyday conditions. And a certain disillusionment set in. Because "Number 9" proves to be not only very enduring for a cologne (five to six hours), but also almost energizing and, unfortunately, not very beautiful in the final phase. AndYouAndI in their comment from five years ago is absolutely right! The scent is only beautiful as long as the lemons play along! In the end exactly this is no longer the case, and then number 9 becomes sweet-floral-earthy in a strange, disharmonious way, yes, I even find it pungently cool and artificial at times.
That's too bad. This could have been a love affair. So descent into the valley, return to the city and sober assessment: just under 8.
Top Notes 
Citron
Lemon petitgrain
Coriander
Cardamom
Heart Notes 
Cyclamen
Shiso leaf
Turkish rose
Base Notes 
Myrrh
Vetiver
Patchouli
