04/26/2024
Chizza
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Humanly dirty leather
As a self-proclaimed leather connoisseur, new leather fragrances appeal to me per se. A few months ago, MGO released Tobacco Leather. Unfortunately - subjectively speaking - a rather harmless leather fragrance, just as generic. Then as now, I can't think of enough to write a well-founded and reasonably interesting review.
As I heard, this was to be revised. The result is now Dirty Leather. A - that's not too much to say - very different fragrance. Hence perhaps the independent publication.
But - I'll say it up front - it doesn't convince me at all at first and later on. What begins with overly present juniper, the bacon-like leather nuanced with coriander, unfortunately continues like this. Juniper in leather fragrances can be formidably crafted, I remember a creation by Maison Mona di Orio. There is a lack of subtlety here. You are not captured in a beguiling way, but rather in an imposing and brute way.
This is also evident in the use of civet. This is clearly present, giving the leather a distinctly animalic note, dirty is a good word here. You probably have to appreciate it, but I don't, quite the opposite. It seems too grubby to me, as if someone doesn't have it so good with hygiene.
Of course: nomen est omen. Dirty is a variable term. Dirty, in the sense of oil-stained leather, as well as this or myriad other variations. Every perfume enthusiast has preferences. I have different ones than those shown here.
As it progresses, the leather becomes dusty, drier and ultimately more pleasant. The berries gradually lose intensity and the civet also becomes more moderate. This is how I would have liked it right away, so the degree of "humanizing" facets is moderate, the leather finally becomes the protagonist.
One positive aspect is that MGO is once again venturing into less conventional fragrances. As far as I'm concerned, when it comes to leather, he can leave it at works like Desperado or, for my sake, Sultan's Homage, which was also partly leather. Both contain ouds, here a lot revolves around the MGO leather accord. This seems to be a kind of Gretchen question or rather an answer to it. Or also: some say so, others say so.
I say: first part about 5.5/10 to 6/10, then definitely 7/10, maybe even 7.5/10, because the gently enveloping bee resin combined with dry tobacco and a hint of vanilla is then again very round and interestingly presented.
As I heard, this was to be revised. The result is now Dirty Leather. A - that's not too much to say - very different fragrance. Hence perhaps the independent publication.
But - I'll say it up front - it doesn't convince me at all at first and later on. What begins with overly present juniper, the bacon-like leather nuanced with coriander, unfortunately continues like this. Juniper in leather fragrances can be formidably crafted, I remember a creation by Maison Mona di Orio. There is a lack of subtlety here. You are not captured in a beguiling way, but rather in an imposing and brute way.
This is also evident in the use of civet. This is clearly present, giving the leather a distinctly animalic note, dirty is a good word here. You probably have to appreciate it, but I don't, quite the opposite. It seems too grubby to me, as if someone doesn't have it so good with hygiene.
Of course: nomen est omen. Dirty is a variable term. Dirty, in the sense of oil-stained leather, as well as this or myriad other variations. Every perfume enthusiast has preferences. I have different ones than those shown here.
As it progresses, the leather becomes dusty, drier and ultimately more pleasant. The berries gradually lose intensity and the civet also becomes more moderate. This is how I would have liked it right away, so the degree of "humanizing" facets is moderate, the leather finally becomes the protagonist.
One positive aspect is that MGO is once again venturing into less conventional fragrances. As far as I'm concerned, when it comes to leather, he can leave it at works like Desperado or, for my sake, Sultan's Homage, which was also partly leather. Both contain ouds, here a lot revolves around the MGO leather accord. This seems to be a kind of Gretchen question or rather an answer to it. Or also: some say so, others say so.
I say: first part about 5.5/10 to 6/10, then definitely 7/10, maybe even 7.5/10, because the gently enveloping bee resin combined with dry tobacco and a hint of vanilla is then again very round and interestingly presented.
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