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Notes01/27/2021
MonsieurTest
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MonsieurTest
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E-bike with wooden frame or Bobby-Car? Vetiver scents with false names
No, The Essence of Vetiver does NOT offer this fragrance. Instead, a gentle vetiver framed by light citrus, cardamom and nutwood that might appeal to many a greengrass-phobe or vetiver novice. For a scent worthy of the name vetiver essence, please turn to the monks of the Monastère of Ganagobie; their monothematic vetyver scent offers a wondrously enjoyable parcours (not a cloister!) through the many vetiver aspects from ethereal freshness to rooty-herbaceous to earthy-chocolatey notes.
That one is seduced as a perfume lover by the reading of Parfumo articles to fragrances whose brand or licensor are far from one ideologically as well as lifestyle-wise, belongs to the (temporarily) irritating aspects of the Parfumo existence. From the somehow obvious designers (Armani, Boss, Cerruti, etc.) one ends up - even though one prefers to ride bicycles and finds car fetishists stupid - unexpectedly with Bentley, Jaguar and Ferrari. Or even - as a more worldly-minded hedonist - with southern French monks. And rubs his eyes, which brands and images are now suddenly emblazoned on the (my?! Is that still me? If so, how many?) shelf.
What the heck: Always follow your nose, always follow the most plausible and seductive Parfumo comments, that's the tried and tested pilgrim rule to the fragrance paradise.
Vetiver is one of those difficult notes that put off many perfume lovers. At Parfumo.de romp many avowed Vetiverskeptiker and Grüngrasangsthasen. But also some conversion reports of successfully mastered confrontation therapies can be read here. Also the undersigned rather belongs to the converts, has not eaten the green grass (more exactly: its roots) to the mother's milk.
I still remember the medium-strong shock when I first had the tart Guerlain Vetiver from 1959 under my nose. It truly took a few approaches to appreciate this classic from my favorite house. But I still wear this heavy, earthy, old-school fellow less often than its more pleasing, tonka-cedar, tobacco-free, thus more restrained and far less extreme son. Which was baptized the name Guerlain Vetiver Extrême; fragrance names are often insane!
This Ferrari fragrance is not crazy, but hardly anyone actually has to fear him. This vetiver does not come loudly booming around the corner (like the innocently named Encre Noir by Lalique), it creeps up rather gently whirring like an e-bike. A little citrusy freshness with grapefruit and petigrain (but none of the ingeniously ellenic pungency of a Terre de Hermes) in the head; a few gentle spices with cardamom, coffee and iris dusts around the vetiver heart - and finally a little wood down below and out the back. Where, in my opinion, the gentle nut wood note actually provides a refined, elegant counter-bearing to the green-tart vetiver.
Conclusion: the vetiver of the monks of the Monastère de Ganagobie is the real, nature-based hiking or biking fragrance: the vetyver essence! Guerlain's old vetiver is a rather edgy and bulky, but tart and elegant classic of the fragrance: a heavily motorized vintage car with worn leather seats, in which once smoked.
Ferrari (closer: the license taking Perfume Holding) offers a not badly made, today's vetiver pleasure, which is practical and agile. Whereby the materials here already seem a little artificial - and have been joined to a possibly somewhat shakily screwed aroma chord: as it were an e-folding bike with a lousy battery. It fits in the suburban train, the train and in the trunk. You can use it in the city, but it also works in nature. Rather sporty than elegant it looks; fits consequently better with jeans & T-shirt than with suit and cufflinks.
The friendly little water is more suitable for transitional seasons than for extreme temperatures. Durability and sillage are moderate and thus definitely contradict the Beast Mode, that drone up, which one would expect from Ferrari yet brand-appropriate.
Still there is this humane, a little lame fragrance, more bobby car than bolide (that's a compliment, people!), online at moderate prices.
EPILOGUE and small PROPOSAL for adjustments to juices, names and brands:
As a language and nose worker, one is, well, always trying to bring the words and the things (Les mots et les choses - to flail a little with Foucault) in line. Order should be, we think, quite unneurotically!
So we ask Guerlain to exchange the names on their Vetiver and Vetiver Extrême bottlings. Furthermore, the following ring exchange is requested: Lalique passes on the sharp-loud content of its art vetiver drone 'Encre Noir' to the Ferrari licensee. Under this brand you can really roar! Ferraris/Perfume Holdings already beautiful, however nevertheless average middle class brew is to be driven out now by Ford as Grey Vetiver (so it fits!) While the vacated Vetiver Essence name now rightfully passes to the monks of Ganagobie Monastery, who offer just that (at Christian prices!). Their elegantly ypsilonated Vetyver name may now go to Lalique for my sake - although I am now in danger of losing track of what Lalique is supposed to put in these great flacons in the future, whose previous contents are now being marketed as Ferrari. Please send any relevant information to Monsieur Teste, c/o Paul Valéry, Cimetière Marin, Sète, France - or to Lalique.
That one is seduced as a perfume lover by the reading of Parfumo articles to fragrances whose brand or licensor are far from one ideologically as well as lifestyle-wise, belongs to the (temporarily) irritating aspects of the Parfumo existence. From the somehow obvious designers (Armani, Boss, Cerruti, etc.) one ends up - even though one prefers to ride bicycles and finds car fetishists stupid - unexpectedly with Bentley, Jaguar and Ferrari. Or even - as a more worldly-minded hedonist - with southern French monks. And rubs his eyes, which brands and images are now suddenly emblazoned on the (my?! Is that still me? If so, how many?) shelf.
What the heck: Always follow your nose, always follow the most plausible and seductive Parfumo comments, that's the tried and tested pilgrim rule to the fragrance paradise.
Vetiver is one of those difficult notes that put off many perfume lovers. At Parfumo.de romp many avowed Vetiverskeptiker and Grüngrasangsthasen. But also some conversion reports of successfully mastered confrontation therapies can be read here. Also the undersigned rather belongs to the converts, has not eaten the green grass (more exactly: its roots) to the mother's milk.
I still remember the medium-strong shock when I first had the tart Guerlain Vetiver from 1959 under my nose. It truly took a few approaches to appreciate this classic from my favorite house. But I still wear this heavy, earthy, old-school fellow less often than its more pleasing, tonka-cedar, tobacco-free, thus more restrained and far less extreme son. Which was baptized the name Guerlain Vetiver Extrême; fragrance names are often insane!
This Ferrari fragrance is not crazy, but hardly anyone actually has to fear him. This vetiver does not come loudly booming around the corner (like the innocently named Encre Noir by Lalique), it creeps up rather gently whirring like an e-bike. A little citrusy freshness with grapefruit and petigrain (but none of the ingeniously ellenic pungency of a Terre de Hermes) in the head; a few gentle spices with cardamom, coffee and iris dusts around the vetiver heart - and finally a little wood down below and out the back. Where, in my opinion, the gentle nut wood note actually provides a refined, elegant counter-bearing to the green-tart vetiver.
Conclusion: the vetiver of the monks of the Monastère de Ganagobie is the real, nature-based hiking or biking fragrance: the vetyver essence! Guerlain's old vetiver is a rather edgy and bulky, but tart and elegant classic of the fragrance: a heavily motorized vintage car with worn leather seats, in which once smoked.
Ferrari (closer: the license taking Perfume Holding) offers a not badly made, today's vetiver pleasure, which is practical and agile. Whereby the materials here already seem a little artificial - and have been joined to a possibly somewhat shakily screwed aroma chord: as it were an e-folding bike with a lousy battery. It fits in the suburban train, the train and in the trunk. You can use it in the city, but it also works in nature. Rather sporty than elegant it looks; fits consequently better with jeans & T-shirt than with suit and cufflinks.
The friendly little water is more suitable for transitional seasons than for extreme temperatures. Durability and sillage are moderate and thus definitely contradict the Beast Mode, that drone up, which one would expect from Ferrari yet brand-appropriate.
Still there is this humane, a little lame fragrance, more bobby car than bolide (that's a compliment, people!), online at moderate prices.
EPILOGUE and small PROPOSAL for adjustments to juices, names and brands:
As a language and nose worker, one is, well, always trying to bring the words and the things (Les mots et les choses - to flail a little with Foucault) in line. Order should be, we think, quite unneurotically!
So we ask Guerlain to exchange the names on their Vetiver and Vetiver Extrême bottlings. Furthermore, the following ring exchange is requested: Lalique passes on the sharp-loud content of its art vetiver drone 'Encre Noir' to the Ferrari licensee. Under this brand you can really roar! Ferraris/Perfume Holdings already beautiful, however nevertheless average middle class brew is to be driven out now by Ford as Grey Vetiver (so it fits!) While the vacated Vetiver Essence name now rightfully passes to the monks of Ganagobie Monastery, who offer just that (at Christian prices!). Their elegantly ypsilonated Vetyver name may now go to Lalique for my sake - although I am now in danger of losing track of what Lalique is supposed to put in these great flacons in the future, whose previous contents are now being marketed as Ferrari. Please send any relevant information to Monsieur Teste, c/o Paul Valéry, Cimetière Marin, Sète, France - or to Lalique.
24 Replies
Elysium
