Bottle Design:
Georges Chevalier

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Coque d'Or Guerlain 1937 Extrait

Version from 1937

8.9 / 10 11 Ratings

A popular perfume by Guerlain for women, released in 1937. The scent is floral-fruity. The production was apparently discontinued.
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Main accords

Floral

Fruity

Powdery

Chypre

Spicy

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes

Aldehydes

Aniseed

Bergamot

Fruity notes

Lavender

Heart Notes

Carnation

Cyclamen

Iris

Jasmine

Musk

Patchouli

Tolu balm

Vetiver

Base Notes

Civet

Moss

Vanilla

Perfumer

Jacques Guerlain

Ratings

Scent

8.911 Ratings

Longevity

7.68 Ratings

Sillage

7.27 Ratings

Bottle

7.825 Ratings

Submitted by Kankuro, last update on 10/21/2025.

Interesting Facts

Since February 2014, the historic gilded Baccarat flacon of Coque d'Or, shaped like a bow-tie in cobalt blue crystal, is exhibited in the "Hall of Mirrors" of the Maison Guerlain. On request, it is possible to smell the scent (extrait), which has been reconstructed following the formula of 1937.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to

Reviews

3 in-depth fragrance descriptions

10/22/2025

9Scent 7Longevity 8Sillage

Gr33ndot
7 Reviews

Gr33ndot

1

Explorer

This one is a cousin to Mitsouko. They both share a familiar peach opening. It a slightly juicier opening thanks to the additional citrus. The fruity like opening fades away allowing for the florals and spices to develop. Rose and carnation were the prominent florals. The base shows a prominent oakmoss that is supported by woods, resins, and leather notes. If one appreciates Mitsouko, then Coque d'Or is worth trying. A pretty nice chypre based scent overall.

09/26/2013

9Scent 7.5Longevity 7.5Sillage

DemonHead
18 Reviews

DemonHead

2

Derby's Great Aunt

Guerlain's Coque d'Or (Golden Shell) perfume was created in 1937 by Jacques Guerlain, and is easily recognisable for its beautiful gilded Baccarat blue bow-shaped flacon. It was created in the art deco age where lavishness and opulence was the norm, and its beautiful golden perfume presentation demonstrates this. Coque d'Or was additionally released in the quadrilobe flacon, as well as goutte and papillion bottles, and is a scent that typifies the glamour and mystique of this era.

Coque d'Or represents for me, some of Jacques Guerlain's most underappreciated work... it is a sensuous leathery fragrance that I feel might have been a pre-cursor to another much-loved men's Guerlain fragrance; but more on that later.

My vintage Coque d'Or eau de toilette reveals a citrus opening over an aromatic floral heart. I detect rose and something like soft iris or violets and a piquancy furnished by slightly peppery carnations and notes of nutmeg or mace. However, there is a beguiling buttery leather accord that features, and it is one that I've smelled before... it reminds me of paper-thin hand-made antique gloves of the most exceptional quality. As the perfume evolves further, curls of creamy sandalwood appear and an ambery facet (labdanum and vanilla?) brings with it a glowing sense of warmth. The whole composition rests on a glorious oakmoss base that rivals the best of other Guerlain greats. Coque d'Or is a sultry skinscent that gets better and better the longer it rests on the skin.

I would not be surprised if Jacques Guerlain's grandson Jean-Paul Guerlain perhaps drew upon the aromatic leather/oakmoss marriage of Coque d'Or as inspiration behind the mens aromatic leather fougère Derby. Whilst the two have topnotes that diverge in style and composition (florals in the former vs peppermint in the latter), their heart and basenotes run somewhat parallel. Derby is heralded as Guerlain's most revered male leather scent, and has qualities I find comparable to his Great Aunt.

I think many would welcome the return of Coque d'Or in the permanent perfume portfolio at 68 Champs Elysées. For my money, I find it a must-try for each and every Guerlainophile.

01/11/2017

10Scent 8Longevity 7Sillage

Zora
133 Reviews

Translated · Show original

Zora

Top Review 38

Harmony Wrapped in Gold

When I saw this fragrance at the auctions, I knew only one thing. I must have it, absolutely. Not that I knew how it smelled, no idea. But if it says floral-powdery here, then it's already clear to me in advance.
When I won the bid, the joy was immense. After all, there were still about 65ml left from 100ml. And with the hope that it wasn't spoiled, I waited every day with impatience until it finally arrived.

There it was, the beautiful and well-known bottle. My curiosity was uncontainable, and the subtle and fine scent from the cap already hinted at the treasure I had received. The first attempt to open it failed mercilessly. Even the subsequent attempts did not yield the desired contents, only sore fingers.
Immediately, I turned to the forum, messaging our vintage specialist Flori. Knock, twist, knock. Tentatively on the edge of the table, always afraid the thin neck would break. I had already damaged a bottle this way before. It simply couldn't happen here, not with this fragrance, under no circumstances.

Then my gaze fell on the drumstick from Ian Paice. My beloved memento from the drummer of Deep Purple. This should work, after all, it's hardwood and the size is perfect.

A few taps later, and the stopper lay in my palm, as if by magic. There it was, the fragrance of my desire.

I cannot judge how the fly smells. My comment only refers to the vintage EdT. And although I am not the super nose here and cannot write such detailed and wonderful comments as so many here, Dave's blog encouraged me to at least try. This fragrance definitely deserves it. And I took my time to test it intensively. Of course, every drop means one less, but it is a pleasure at the highest level.

From the very beginning, there is pure harmony here. A fruity-floral opening in beautiful elegance. Finely dosed and harmonious. Nothing shrill and nothing piercing. Rather warm and slightly powdery. As it develops, a cinnamon note comes into play. I cannot say where this comes from, it is not listed as such in the pyramid, but it reminds me of days of security in childhood when I loved to eat rice pudding with cinnamon. It is a fine and warm cinnamon scent. Then the flowers come in. Everything is perfect and harmonious, and yet I imagine I can smell the carnation well. And this combination of the carnation with the fine cinnamon scent, underlined by all the other fragrance notes, which I cannot pick out individually, creates a perfect harmony.
In the base, the entire harmony is preserved. None of the base notes would disturb it.

Conclusion: A perfect fragrance with a slight sweetness, powdery and full of harmony and warmth, without ever losing its elegant note. A fragrance I would love to wear at any time, one I could never perceive as old-fashioned, and one that would find its admirers in every era.

If my comment has mistakes, please don't be angry, it is still the boundless enthusiasm for this rare and wonderful treasure.