Top Notes 
Frankincense
Iris
Pink pepper
Heart Notes 
Gaiac wood
Benzoin
Coriander
Base Notes 
Copaiba balsam
Patchouli
White musk
11/09/2012
Apicius
224 Reviews
Apicius
Helpful Review
3
A Vanilla Titbit
There is a certain kind of paper – the sort which you may use to cover the shelves in a cupboard – that allegedly was responsible for the creation of Bois d'Arménie: a childhood memory of Sylvaine Delacourte – as I read or heard somewhere. As Guerlain's art director, she seems to have a leading influence on the creation of new fragrances. Well, another of those Guerlain legends!
With Bois d'Arménie, Guerlain gives us a fragrance which simply can only come from this house. It is this special handling of vanillic notes, which only Guerlain has lead to perfection. For me, it does not matter that vanilla is not mentioned as such in the known fragrance notes. Anyway, Guerlain is always telling only half of the truth.
The vanilla – or whatever I identify as such – has an unbelievable depth and intensity. It is not accompanied by woody tartness as the tonka complex in Arsène Lupin Voyou, but by a completely different dark and recondite woodiness. This has some resemblance to certain liqueurs, but without being overly sweet. And also, it almost has some smokiness. In its clear, only slightly shaded expression, this vanilla comes near to the wonderful Spiritueuse Double Vanille, however, it is darker.
With that paper story, Bois d'Arménie touches the world of orris fragrances – besides the powder note there is the impression of old foxy paper which also applies to some orris fragrances, and among those most of all to Dior Homme. They have something in common, however, only initially. Bois d'Arménie is not developing any “lipstick” accord as the Dior scent does.
Bois d'Arménie is a difficult fragrance, and it is a little bit demanding. The pithiness of the vanillic part obviously makes it necessary to shift down the intensity. And so, Bois d'Arménie is a difficult candidate for testing. During my first encounters at my local Maison Guerlain, Bois d'Arménie seemed to have nothing to say. Having my olfactory sense affected by other, less discreet fragrances, I was hardly able to smell it. Bois d'Arménie creates only a faint aura around its wearer – getting acquainted with it needs some time and devotion.
Besides vanilla and orris, no other note reveals itself to me. On the contrary, during its development Bois d'Arménie more and more retreats into the vanilla-like shell until it is completely faded after almost a day.
So, which one is to prefer? The clear and ethereal Spiritueuse Double Vanille, or the noble, darkish Bois d'Arménie? Of course, these questions are not to be answered. Both will equally delight their owners – providing that one can cope with such a lot of vanilla-like orientalism.
Personally, I only sometimes like to wear it – carefully, so to say. Please consider: a vanilla ice cream is consumed within a few minutes – but Bois d'Arménie will last many hours! Despite its discreetness, one better wears this beautiful fragrance with consideration. Eat it like a titbit!
With Bois d'Arménie, Guerlain gives us a fragrance which simply can only come from this house. It is this special handling of vanillic notes, which only Guerlain has lead to perfection. For me, it does not matter that vanilla is not mentioned as such in the known fragrance notes. Anyway, Guerlain is always telling only half of the truth.
The vanilla – or whatever I identify as such – has an unbelievable depth and intensity. It is not accompanied by woody tartness as the tonka complex in Arsène Lupin Voyou, but by a completely different dark and recondite woodiness. This has some resemblance to certain liqueurs, but without being overly sweet. And also, it almost has some smokiness. In its clear, only slightly shaded expression, this vanilla comes near to the wonderful Spiritueuse Double Vanille, however, it is darker.
With that paper story, Bois d'Arménie touches the world of orris fragrances – besides the powder note there is the impression of old foxy paper which also applies to some orris fragrances, and among those most of all to Dior Homme. They have something in common, however, only initially. Bois d'Arménie is not developing any “lipstick” accord as the Dior scent does.
Bois d'Arménie is a difficult fragrance, and it is a little bit demanding. The pithiness of the vanillic part obviously makes it necessary to shift down the intensity. And so, Bois d'Arménie is a difficult candidate for testing. During my first encounters at my local Maison Guerlain, Bois d'Arménie seemed to have nothing to say. Having my olfactory sense affected by other, less discreet fragrances, I was hardly able to smell it. Bois d'Arménie creates only a faint aura around its wearer – getting acquainted with it needs some time and devotion.
Besides vanilla and orris, no other note reveals itself to me. On the contrary, during its development Bois d'Arménie more and more retreats into the vanilla-like shell until it is completely faded after almost a day.
So, which one is to prefer? The clear and ethereal Spiritueuse Double Vanille, or the noble, darkish Bois d'Arménie? Of course, these questions are not to be answered. Both will equally delight their owners – providing that one can cope with such a lot of vanilla-like orientalism.
Personally, I only sometimes like to wear it – carefully, so to say. Please consider: a vanilla ice cream is consumed within a few minutes – but Bois d'Arménie will last many hours! Despite its discreetness, one better wears this beautiful fragrance with consideration. Eat it like a titbit!
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