Rocabar Hermès 1998 Eau de Toilette

Rocabar is so good and unique that i can't put my finger on any note in particular.

There's a woody and sweet resinous thing going on (definitely Benzoin mixed with cedar) but the opening adds fresh citrus and herbs, and the coniferous aspect is always present with probably the fir and cypress helping it out.

What a ride. Although it seems weird, the dry woodiness, the herbal and fresh opening, and the coniferous heart are masterfully blended with the sweet amber base making this fragrance one of the best fall and early spring scents ou there.

Gilles Romey, who had created Eau de Rochas Homme (1993) Eau de Toilette , was capable of making another interesting creation with classic elements put in a different way. The coniferous smell is present in may classic men's fragrances but mixed in a woody amber/oriental base is pretty new and unique for the époque.

Somewhere in between the greens, woods and resins, i find ionones from violets but in a way that it seems like iris to me. Buttery, creamy, lighlty floral. So delicate that between these powerful materials is quite easy to get unnoticed. But it makes the difference. It's like the incense in "Un Jardin sur le Nil | Hermès" . Which is always there but under the green mango and the plastic grapefruit.

Hermès pre-Éllena has some special and timeless aura around. BelAmi, Eau de Hermès, Equipage and Rocabar are quintessential fragrances that need to be discovered and experienced. BelAmi is one of the best leather based scents, Eau de Hermès is a classic spicy leather that inspired Éllena work, and Equipage screams gentleman.

But Rocabar is probably the one that links the past with the present best, and represents a beautiful time of the year which is autumn. The performance is good. Lasts all day, creates a bubble around you, is not a strong projector but is always present. Everytime i get a whiff, i feel at home, in a fall day, around lumber and a forest. Peaceful.

4/5

Hermès is an interesting designer in comparison to the other ones when it comes to the world of perfumery. While even the most classic bend toward the latest trends and trying to get the easy money from the young audience, the traditional brand of leather goods maintains a consistent line which is refined, more mature and with almost no perfume out of production. Even creations of little attention like Rocabar remains in production showing how refined is the offer of Hermès for both the male and female audience.

It is interesting how the perfume is constructed, a mixture of chypre with a dry resinous and spicy oriental feeling, something able to transmit a rough and at the same time velvety, texture something that seems to marry well with the inspiration of the tissue. If you watch the close aroma skin you notice a smell that brings to the mind a semisweet chocolate aroma, product of a very sophisticated patchouli. What projects, however, it is an aroma that mixes a smell of dry, cold and fresh spices, resins, citrus and an astringent smell of classic herbs.

Rocabar may seem at first a scent that disappears quickly into the skin, but if applied with greater generosity is possible to notice its sleek smell forming a sophisticated aura with shades of moss, wood, spices and resins. It's the kind of perfume that does not seek to attract attention, that exudes confidence, security and good taste. Not for many, but matches very well with those who seek this kind of more mature and sophisticated elegance.

Rocabar is a sophisticated, grown-up gentleman's scent. It has a woody, almost pine-like opening, but dries down to a deep, sweet, resinous, almost vanilla-like aroma. It is (incredibly) well blended, so making out the notes isn't easy... but what it does come across as, is quality. Quality is something which is characteristic of Hermès, and it certainly won't disappoint here. Would highly recommend this for any well-dressed, confidant man who is looking to make an impression. Lots of class and unmistakable quality!

Rocabar is my first dud from Hermes. It's a very weak fragrance; I've read it described as "expensive water in a bottle." Turned into a mild skin scent after about 2 hours. I did not care for the scent - it's very vanilla top heavy with subtle whiffs of citrus and wood. Putting aside my dislike of strong vanilla scents, to me the fragrance itself is nothing special.

Grabbed a vintage bottle of this as I have a love affair with Hermes men's perfumes. I love and own Equipage, Equipage Geranium, Bel Ami Vetiver. Love vintage Bel Ami but have not tried the recent release. That said, this one was a disappointment. It is not that it is bad per se, but it let me down as the main thought that kept hitting me is that this smells like a department store men's fragrance counter. Not one of today that is populated by blue shower gel fragrances or those that are overly sweet (often with vanilla) scents, but more of a traditional light woody scent you would find in the 90's. That time between the power houses of the 70's-80's and the Blue/Iris/Sweet of the 2010's-Now. So there it is, basic woody spice scent with a little citrus at the top and a slight amber at the bottom that is all a skin scent with in thirty minutes to an hour after application.

It is decent department store fodder that smells vaguely nice but now where near Hermes other male centered creations. If you wanted something in the same vein but better maybe reach for a vintage Tuscany Per Uomo (although I hear the newer ones are acceptable too) or if you have the chance Tuscany Per Uomo Forte.