09/20/2012

Gold
541 Reviews

Gold
Very helpful Review
8
It's all about harmony and moderation
"L'Ambre des Merveilles" is a great scent, a flanker which only faintly resembles the original EdM (which has an orange topnote and a salty dry-down). "L'Ambre des Merveilles" is also far more transparent than its grown-up sister, "Elixir des Merveilles", which is a chypre with a drydown I never liked, since it seems muddled and too chocolate-like to me.
Elléna has written a lot about clear notes, his reductionist approach to creating perfumes and his will to compose fragrances which are not complicated: "Je m'oppose aux formules compliquées ou les répétitions, les empilements donne une lecture brouillonne, inintelligible, bien que séduisant". (Journal d'un parfumeur, page 118). He continues by saying: "I love simplicity".
Smelling "L'AdM", I must say that Elléna wonderfully managed to achieve the simplicity he is after by giving his new scent a transparent, yet profound enough structure to please the senses of any demanding perfume-lover. This scent is not cramped with loads of common or even novel ingredients. Nevertheless it comes across fresh, new and spicy in the topnotes. "L'AdM" develops into a warm and envelopping skin-scent after about one hour, keeping the spicy parts and not focussing on the patchouli managed in the pyramide too much. You can clearly feel Elléna's predeliction for peppery- spicy notes as in "Voyages d'Hermes" in this new composition, too. The whole thing manages to retain a pleasantly warm aura which is neither too sweet nor too much of a vanilla-gourmand fragrance until the very end. Everything seems to be at its right place, nothing is used in overdose or seems out of proportion, it's all about balance and equilibrium. I recommend this scent to women and men who want a warm ambery scent for the colder season, a fragrance which is lovely in its moderation, not loud, never over-powering.
"L'Ambre des Merveilles" is my personal favourite among "Les Merveilles". I'm glad I can finally wear an HERMES-scent in fall/winter, too.
Elléna has written a lot about clear notes, his reductionist approach to creating perfumes and his will to compose fragrances which are not complicated: "Je m'oppose aux formules compliquées ou les répétitions, les empilements donne une lecture brouillonne, inintelligible, bien que séduisant". (Journal d'un parfumeur, page 118). He continues by saying: "I love simplicity".
Smelling "L'AdM", I must say that Elléna wonderfully managed to achieve the simplicity he is after by giving his new scent a transparent, yet profound enough structure to please the senses of any demanding perfume-lover. This scent is not cramped with loads of common or even novel ingredients. Nevertheless it comes across fresh, new and spicy in the topnotes. "L'AdM" develops into a warm and envelopping skin-scent after about one hour, keeping the spicy parts and not focussing on the patchouli managed in the pyramide too much. You can clearly feel Elléna's predeliction for peppery- spicy notes as in "Voyages d'Hermes" in this new composition, too. The whole thing manages to retain a pleasantly warm aura which is neither too sweet nor too much of a vanilla-gourmand fragrance until the very end. Everything seems to be at its right place, nothing is used in overdose or seems out of proportion, it's all about balance and equilibrium. I recommend this scent to women and men who want a warm ambery scent for the colder season, a fragrance which is lovely in its moderation, not loud, never over-powering.
"L'Ambre des Merveilles" is my personal favourite among "Les Merveilles". I'm glad I can finally wear an HERMES-scent in fall/winter, too.