Altruist J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin 2017 Eau de Parfum

The essence of this fragrance lies in its exquisite harmony, where complex elements resonate with each other and lead to a comfortable sense of tranquility as the scent unfolds.

The fragrance opens with notes of lemon and ginger. What is particularly noteworthy is the synergy created by the deep intertwining of these two elements. It is a skillful composition that not only provides an instantaneous feeling of refreshment, but also maintains that feeling for an astonishingly long time.

Next, orange flower and rose gently rise, and the scent softens. The base notes are supported by woody notes of vetiver and cedarwood, and the spice of nutmeg. The role of nutmeg in particular is noteworthy. Rather than imparting the sharp, stimulating sensation of the spice, it enhances the contours of the top notes of lemon and ginger, elevating them to a calming presence.

This beautifully harmonious fragrance skillfully combines scents to deliver an invigorating yet deeply relaxing experience.

Altruist. A name for a fragrance that initially evokes memories of Latin classes. And thus brings associations of selflessness and altruism to mind, actions for the benefit of others and the needy, often in the form of alms and donations. So let’s see what it is that Schwarzlose is offering us here.

Altruist starts off surprisingly fresh for me (I expected something heavier) and yet completely different from what one might expect from many other fresh fragrances. It’s not a tropical fruit bomb that overwhelms me with lemony or mandarin notes, but rather a very cultivated opening. Not loud, not shrill, yet at the same time intriguing and, to stay with the Latin theme, a distinctly refined beginning. I would see a vague similarity to Bergamotto di Calabria by Acqua di Parma, but here the bergamot is by no means as dominant, merely a player in the field of lemony freshness. I find this to be a beautifully crafted duet that gives Altruist a special note and I really like it.

Quite taken with this combination, I remain curious about its further development. Two or three hours later, the fragrance changes a bit, and here I find two notes to be dominant: a certain spiciness, though I can’t tell whether it’s triggered by the ginger or the pepper from the fragrance pyramid, and secondly, a floral note. The latter provides a soft rounding to the whole story and makes the fragrance, which I would have initially categorized as more masculine, accessible to the female gender as well. Nevertheless, the original lemon and bergamot are not overshadowed by the pepper, ginger, and floral hints; they are simply pushed a bit to the side.

Another two hours later, I perceive fine woody undertones, which I find excellently done; the other ingredients of the pyramid elude me. But that’s okay, the fragrance fades out beautifully as it is.

So what are the takeaways?
1) Bottle. Kept in innocent colorlessness, it fits an altruistic approach.
2) Longevity. Yeah, just about okay, fine for a rather fresh fragrance, but there’s definitely room for improvement. ~ 6-7 hours for me, and that’s it.
3) Sillage. An Eau de Parfum? Really? So if someone wants to establish a (fragrance) brand with this, they need to really use the sprayer well, otherwise it won’t work. Whether that would help, I can’t say yet.
4) Scent. Yes, something different from the fresh and woody corner. A bit more masculine than feminine, a good year-round daytime companion, one that doesn’t clash because it doesn’t raise questions, because it doesn’t provoke, because it’s simply unobtrusive yet well made. An altruistic approach indeed, exercising restraint and remaining more in the background. You can’t go wrong with this, but it doesn’t knock me off my chair either. One of those perhaps typical gifts that you can never go completely wrong with.

However, Schwarzlose is not really that selfless at a price of 100-130 euros. Either rethink the name or the pricing, grin!

Rose, woods, and citrus as well as synthetic notes are usually on my "no-go" list when it comes to fragrances.
Therefore, I wasn't particularly optimistic when testing "Altruist."
But I was surprised.
I really like the scent. This could also be because, in my opinion, it doesn't smell at all like the listed fragrance notes. Except for the wood.

"Altruist" smells like a cozy cabin in a coniferous forest.
The woods have a gentle scent, and not the sharpness I often experience.
In addition, there is an intense (pine?) needle note. Even though this is not listed, it is for me the most dominant note in this fragrance.
Aromatic resin and the spices pepper and nutmeg join in. Especially nutmeg.

That sounds very intense and bitter at first.
However, I would describe the scent as gentle and calming.

I find myself in a dense coniferous forest in winter. When the snow softens the scents but also makes them clear and tangible. The gentle, fresh-green needle note caresses my nose as I brush against the sawdust from the stump of a freshly cut tree. This is how I like wood to smell: fresh, calm, and gentle.

A fresh-spicy and woody scent! Nothing more and nothing less. Not better than many perfumes of its kind, but also not necessarily worse. A good average. It doesn't "hurt" anyone and doesn't offend any "fellow noses." A fragrance that is comfortable and swims along with the general current probably has it much easier with acceptance than a striking, quirky, unconventional, or distinctly niche perfume.
The beginning is citrusy-spicy with a slight "sea breeze" and a bit salty. Pleasant. Later, fresh-spicy hebe flowers and pepper dominate. Nice and lovable.
In the end, a few "darker" scents accompany the nice freshness. Foremost is a slightly pencil-like cedar, some grass, and patchouli. Warmed by something amber-like. All in all, a scent that can be worn well in all seasons. Not a chart-topper and not a "streetcar sweeper," but (to me) too adjusted to the general broad taste. It could come across as a bit more "brazen" in my opinion. A touch of incense or myrrh in the base, with the beginning spiced up with a bit of mint or basil, would make this otherwise beautiful scent feel a bit more casual and cheeky. I miss a unique dot on the "i" for more individuality.

Altruists?
When I ask the fragrance whom I could imagine wearing it, there are at least two.
They are both energetic yet sensitive people, with a pronounced sense of beauty and a strong need to conform.
No, a bit better than the conforming neighbor.
So, strikingly inconspicuous.
And more likely to act quietly than to mark their territory too loudly.
Pleasant companions on cheerful days
Cultivated individuals.
A little slick.
A little cool.
Well... that's not really the description of an altruist
is it?
Then this fragrance just has the wrong name.